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Posted: 3/27/2021 4:53:12 PM EDT
[#1]
My first ever gun print turned out way better than expected. Waiting on rails from PY2A. I need to order a locking block from Ebay. I'll use the upper on my P80C for testing later.
Printed at a 45 degree angle used tree supports. 0.2mm layer height.    
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Posted: 3/28/2021 8:15:10 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My first ever gun print turned out way better than expected. Waiting on rails from PY2A. I need to order a locking block from Ebay. I'll use the upper on my P80C for testing later. Printed at a 45 degree angle used tree supports. 0.2mm layer height. https://i.imgur.com/IUnYbJf.jpg https://i.imgur.com/N2B1MyZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WxEWBTc.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A2mugov.jpg Nice! |
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Posted: 3/28/2021 8:41:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/75C60533-B8CB-409E-B473-ADD04179936C_jpe-1878497.JPG I tried to paint it pink but the paint I used cured red. Looks kinda cool though. A friend of mine is going to make me some vinyl dickbutt decals for the slide. It's not the most reliable thing in the world, and tends to lock up on the last round, but hey, at least it's obnoxious.  |
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Posted: 3/29/2021 10:03:44 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My first ever gun print turned out way better than expected. Waiting on rails from PY2A. I need to order a locking block from Ebay. I'll use the upper on my P80C for testing later. Printed at a 45 degree angle used tree supports. 0.2mm layer height. https://i.imgur.com/IUnYbJf.jpg https://i.imgur.com/N2B1MyZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WxEWBTc.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A2mugov.jpg Nice job for your first. What are the rest of your settings? |
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Posted: 3/29/2021 3:59:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Nice job for your first. What are the rest of your settings? Took about 18 hours to print. the G19 frame. Ender 5 Pro ESUN PLA+ 0.4mm nozzle (I want to try my 0.6mm nozzle on next one) Print Temp 212 Print Speed 50 or 55 Layer Height 0.2mm First Layer 0.16mm 6 Walls/top/bottom 99% Gyroid Infill Direct Drive so my Retraction was 1.2mm 20mm/s I have dual 5015 fans so my max fan speed was set to 50% Tree Supports left at Cura default Other support settings basically what this guy uses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TsJOvxQk-c 3D Print General Cura Settings Dialing in printer I get started with https://teachingtechyt.github.io/ However, I've found I can make it tune right to his tests, but when I printed something I wasn't quite where I wanted to be. So, I found this http://retractioncalibration.com/ This seems more real world and you can test lots of things at once. Teaching tech even mentions it on his website. |
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Posted: 3/29/2021 6:17:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Thanks for the resource. Been having trouble with proper retraction while using tree supports and need to play around with settings.
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Posted: 3/29/2021 7:20:07 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LOVE the sharpie roll marks Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/75C60533-B8CB-409E-B473-ADD04179936C_jpe-1878497.JPG I tried to paint it pink but the paint I used cured red. Looks kinda cool though. A friend of mine is going to make me some vinyl dickbutt decals for the slide. It's not the most reliable thing in the world, and tends to lock up on the last round, but hey, at least it's obnoxious. Haha I gotta give credit to the guy who hacked up that CZ clone and got a RMR out of brownells for his efforts. That kicked off the whole dickbutt thing with my CZ fanboy buddy who loathes dickbutt. I made him shoot this thing last week. I’m probably going to strip the parts off of this and use them for something else eventually, but this has been a fun, if idiotic, project   Attached File |
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Posted: 3/30/2021 11:42:47 AM EDT
[#8]
Test fitting a slide from my edc on my PLA+ G17 frame, functions perfectly, no sanding/filing/etc required. It felt great right away, no break in required. Did apply a few dabs of aeroshell grease the the rails before installing the slide. Waiting for a sale on a cheap irons-only g17 slide that at least has rear serrations so I can complete the build.
 Attached FileTest fitting a cheap 3cr tactical slide on my PLA+ G19 frame. Slide only has barrel and recoil spring assembly installed because the firing pin safety plunger wouldn't fit in the slide, both of those were sent back for replacements last week. Only took a few racks of the slide to get it to smooth out on the cheap py2a rails (still slightly gritty, may try to polish the rails), slide lock back on empty works, slide release works, slide lock back lever works. Did apply a few dabs of aeroshell grease the the rails before installing the slide.  Attached FileBoth of these are just going to be cheap iron-sight budget builds, destined to be filller for the safe assuming they pass range testing. Only complaint so far is mags, whether full or empty, don't want to drop free on their own on both frames. It's almost as if the mag release button just needs a hair more travel to make it happen. I don't know if this is a design flaw with the mag release spring channel not being wide enough, or my flow rate is slightly too high and resulting in too much material in that channel area, or maybe it's the cheap OEM mag release buttons. Might try filing out that channel a bit to see if that clears up the issue. Not a big problem because these aren't ever going to be HD/EDC rigs that I need to count on. |
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Posted: 3/31/2021 9:19:30 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Haha I gotta give credit to the guy who hacked up that CZ clone and got a RMR out of brownells for his efforts. That kicked off the whole dickbutt thing with my CZ fanboy buddy who loathes dickbutt. I made him shoot this thing last week. I'm probably going to strip the parts off of this and use them for something else eventually, but this has been a fun, if idiotic, project https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/091ECE42-D1EB-49F7-92DB-2AEAE3A5D0B2_jpe-1885230.JPG that's clean, bro |
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Posted: 3/31/2021 11:36:05 PM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 4/1/2021 12:18:22 AM EDT
[#11]
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Posted: 4/1/2021 8:37:05 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My first try at the py2a g19 turned out great. With a little sanding and bending I was able to get the slide lock spring to function properly. Also sanded a lot underneath the trigger to keep it from grabbing the guard. I seem to be missing the locking pin for the front slide. Does this pin not come with a standard parts kit? Or did I lose it? (Wouldn't surprise me) https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/146744/20210331_221907_jpg-1888217.JPG Lower parts kit from Brownells for a gen 3 lower and rails from py2a. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/146744/20210331_223852_jpg-1888229.JPG Gen3 lpk should have all three pins. The g19 and g17 kits I got from KM Tactical were both missing that pin too, so they had to ship those to me. I'm guessing some manufacturer sent out a big batch of lpks without that front pin to a bunch of different vendors. You will also need a 3-pin g19 locking block to complete that g19 frame. https://www.glockstore.com/Glock-Locking-Block?quantity=1&custcol7=271 On that page choose the option for "19/23/32 Gen 5/4/3 (3-Pin Only)". The one just above it, "17/20/etc (3-pin after mid-2002)", is the one you'd need for a py2a g17 frame. Not sure if they're in stock, the g17 locking block was on backorder for over a month recently and I just got mine a few days ago. |
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Posted: 4/1/2021 10:16:33 AM EDT
[#13]
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Posted: 4/4/2021 9:48:37 AM EDT
[#14]
 Attached FileMy first try and first overnight print. Done on a prusa mk3 with a roll of the $10 PLA + from the other thread. Came out absolutely perfect. Used the basic settings from PY2A. |
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Posted: 4/4/2021 10:00:25 AM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 4/7/2021 4:47:09 PM EDT
[#16]
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Posted: 4/9/2021 10:04:07 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gen3 lpk should have all three pins. The g19 and g17 kits I got from KM Tactical were both missing that pin too, so they had to ship those to me. I'm guessing some manufacturer sent out a big batch of lpks without that front pin to a bunch of different vendors. You will also need a 3-pin g19 locking block to complete that g19 frame. https://www.glockstore.com/Glock-Locking-Block?quantity=1&custcol7=271 On that page choose the option for "19/23/32 Gen 5/4/3 (3-Pin Only)". The one just above it, "17/20/etc (3-pin after mid-2002)", is the one you'd need for a py2a g17 frame. Not sure if they're in stock, the g17 locking block was on backorder for over a month recently and I just got mine a few days ago. Thank you for the info, super helpful. If anyone else runs into this issue of missing that front slide pin, a 7/64" drill bit cut off to fit on the smooth side of it fits perfect. You can get a 4 pack from harbor freight for like 4 bucks. Easy to cut with an angle grinder. |
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Posted: 4/11/2021 8:12:26 PM EDT
[#18]
Someone send me the dickbutt gcode. I need to print one.
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Posted: 4/12/2021 4:25:45 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Someone send me the dickbutt gcode. I need to print one. PY2A has it on his website, easy to find. |
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Posted: 4/12/2021 10:43:09 PM EDT
[#20]
So where are you guys finding lower parts kits?
Everywhere I've found so far is OOS or "shady looking website with no reviews". |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 3:07:38 AM EDT
[#21]
Lower parts kits are a problem, but you can hunt up the parts individually and usually order everything needed from two or three different sources. I haven't seen one place have everything in stock all at once for a while.
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Posted: 4/13/2021 3:13:46 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So where are you guys finding lower parts kits? Everywhere I've found so far is OOS or "shady looking website with no reviews". In Stock. |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 7:06:47 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So where are you guys finding lower parts kits? Everywhere I've found so far is OOS or "shady looking website with no reviews". Got mine on eBay. Just installed it with zero issues. |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 9:29:11 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: So where are you guys finding lower parts kits? Everywhere I've found so far is OOS or "shady looking website with no reviews". In Stock. Oh, yeah, forgot to mention it's for a G19. I had Rockey Brass open one night a few days ago, decided to order in the morning, and by then they were OOS. Stupid of me. |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 8:52:38 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you for the info, super helpful. If anyone else runs into this issue of missing that front slide pin, a 7/64" drill bit cut off to fit on the smooth side of it fits perfect. You can get a 4 pack from harbor freight for like 4 bucks. Easy to cut with an angle grinder. Well shit, now you tell me. |
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Posted: 4/17/2021 7:12:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Well, this site keeps costing me money. I just ordered frame rails, locking block and a lower parts kit. No pictures yet, but my 19 frame turned out pretty good. My son has a slide I can borrow from his P80 build to test with. If I get it running I'll post some pics.
I was looking for something to use as an RMR test gun to see if I like red dots on pistols. And I like to build things, so this seemed like a perfect project. |
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Posted: 4/18/2021 8:52:00 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, this site keeps costing me money. I just ordered frame rails, locking block and a lower parts kit. No pictures yet, but my 19 frame turned out pretty good. My son has a slide I can borrow from his P80 build to test with. If I get it running I'll post some pics. I was looking for something to use as an RMR test gun to see if I like red dots on pistols. And I like to build things, so this seemed like a perfect project. Arfcom got me as well last week, I posted this in the other thread. 3D Fuel Pro PLA (PLA+) on Prusa Mini Plus 
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Posted: 4/27/2021 2:55:25 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Arfcom got me as well last week, I posted this in the other thread. 3D Fuel Pro PLA (PLA+) on Prusa Mini Plus https://i.imgur.com/UreQbok.jpg That looks extremely nice. I get why everyone wants to print in all these crazy colors, but I I generally print everything in black like this. No one would even know it was printed if you showed up to a range with it. |
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Posted: 4/30/2021 9:02:24 PM EDT
[#29]
I finally got the parts in for my G19. It went together pretty well. The only problem was the non OE trigger. (Yes, I cheaped out and bought a non factory parts kit). It was really heavy for a couple of tries, the went dead. I had to do some tweaking to get it working, and it's still a little on the heavy side, but I'll have to work on it another day. For now, it function tests fine. The slide went right on, it doesn't bind anywhere, and the Magpul mag I tried drops free. The slide is borrowed from my son's P80 build, so I will have to find one soon, but this should do to test it. I still need to clean up where the supports were, but a little sandpaper should smooth it out. It looks worse in the picture than in person.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 5/7/2021 3:25:22 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Arfcom got me as well last week, I posted this in the other thread. 3D Fuel Pro PLA (PLA+) on Prusa Mini Plus https://i.imgur.com/UreQbok.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Well, this site keeps costing me money. I just ordered frame rails, locking block and a lower parts kit. No pictures yet, but my 19 frame turned out pretty good. My son has a slide I can borrow from his P80 build to test with. If I get it running I'll post some pics. I was looking for something to use as an RMR test gun to see if I like red dots on pistols. And I like to build things, so this seemed like a perfect project. Arfcom got me as well last week, I posted this in the other thread. 3D Fuel Pro PLA (PLA+) on Prusa Mini Plus https://i.imgur.com/UreQbok.jpg |
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Posted: 5/7/2021 4:01:28 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What file is this without the finger grooves? I like that. PY2A Glock 19 file. It’s located on the website under frames. |
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Posted: 5/7/2021 8:16:54 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: PY2A Glock 19 file. It's located on the website under frames. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: What file is this without the finger grooves? I like that. PY2A Glock 19 file. It's located on the website under frames. I've printed AR lowers and a Glock magazine. Time to print a Glock and a Glock mag AR lower. |
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Posted: 5/8/2021 1:22:17 AM EDT
[#33]
Almost got my 19 finished. Just need the locking block and sights.
 Attached File Attached FileI have a second frame done and going to order parts every so often. Not to shabby thus far. Has anyone reshaped the groove where the mag catch spring goes? I have to pull the mag out. It seems like the right side where the spring goes needs to have a slightly steeper curve to allow the spring to travel more. I was going to try a blade on an exacto knife to shave it, but was curious if anyone else had another solution. |
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Posted: 5/8/2021 12:09:35 PM EDT
[#34]
Anyone here bending their own rails from the py2a flats and jigs? My rears seem to come out fine, but my fronts appear to be too close to the pin hole which makes them too wide to fit in the channel without excessive filing. I might need to remake my lower die piece to try to shift where the corner is made.
Its only a small amount on each side, but enough to cause issues. I tried bending one by eye and it seems to be much better but doesn't quite line up where I think should in the front-middle jig. |
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Posted: 5/8/2021 12:13:01 PM EDT
[#35]
Just saw this on gun.deals. Not a terrible deal. RMR not included. ETA: Coupon code is AMERICA10
 Attached File |
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Posted: 5/8/2021 7:30:23 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Almost got my 19 finished. Just need the locking block and sights. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/207473/BCDDAF76-DD7C-452B-9F70-6C9173EE55CE_jpe-1934021.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/207473/602544EB-97BF-4293-B307-3E4C89E965D3_jpe-1934022.JPG I have a second frame done and going to order parts every so often. Not to shabby thus far. Has anyone reshaped the groove where the mag catch spring goes? I have to pull the mag out. It seems like the right side where the spring goes needs to have a slightly steeper curve to allow the spring to travel more. I was going to try a blade on an exacto knife to shave it, but was curious if anyone else had another solution. He released version 2 of the 17, I think that was one of the items he changed. ETA: I see you did the 19, he is still working on version 2 for the 19 and that is one of the changes. |
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Posted: 6/6/2021 9:55:56 PM EDT
[#37]
I've been looking all over for that dick butt stl, any one help me out?
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Posted: 6/12/2021 1:57:20 PM EDT
[#38]
Well I printed Glock 19 v3. It turned out great.I assembled it this morning, and the fit is good. No issues except the front rail pin is not long enough. What are you guys replacing the pin with?
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Posted: 8/7/2021 12:12:21 AM EDT
[#39]
Doing my first one tonight.
Lets see if it comes out...
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Posted: 8/7/2021 10:03:01 PM EDT
[#40]
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Posted: 8/8/2021 1:34:50 AM EDT
[#41]
I could use some help on Glock frames printed at a 45 degree angle. Using an Ender 5 with direct drive.
I use tree supports and have played with various support interface settings, but I still have a problem when it starts printing the beavertail portion of the frame and parts of the trigger guard. The beavertail starts off being printed on top of the tree support however I'm getting curling (edges curl up) during the printing and the nozzle keeps making contact with it. Sometimes I've had the print fail at exactly that spot when the nozzle knocks the beavertail off. Keep in mind I'm running a dual 5015 fan setup, so I have way more cooling than the stock setup. I had my fans at 50%. So, do I need more or less cooling at that portion of the print? I've read that if the part curls up (that's what mine was doing) it needs less cooling and if it curls down it needs more cooling, but these comments were about printing ABS not PLA+. Lower layers also seemed to help. My 0.2 layer height print failed but the 0.16 layer height made it, but still had curling issues. |
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Posted: 8/8/2021 2:40:54 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I could use some help on Glock frames printed at a 45 degree angle. Using an Ender 5 with direct drive. I use tree supports and have played with various support interface settings, but I still have a problem when it starts printing the beavertail portion of the frame and parts of the trigger guard. The beavertail starts off being printed on top of the tree support however I'm getting curling (edges curl up) during the printing and the nozzle keeps making contact with it. Sometimes I've had the print fail at exactly that spot when the nozzle knocks the beavertail off. Keep in mind I'm running a dual 5015 fan setup, so I have way more cooling than the stock setup. I had my fans at 50%. So, do I need more or less cooling at that portion of the print? I've read that if the part curls up (that's what mine was doing) it needs less cooling and if it curls down it needs more cooling, but these comments were about printing ABS not PLA+. Lower layers also seemed to help. My 0.2 layer height print failed but the 0.16 layer height made it, but still had curling issues. I run my fans on 100% but my printer is fully enclosed |
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Posted: 8/8/2021 10:59:33 AM EDT
[#43]
I posted this in a couple of other threads, but it is my best one so far.
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Posted: 8/14/2021 3:23:42 AM EDT
[#44]
I just finished my second attempt at a PY2A frame (G-69). This one is probably servicable, but there are some issues that I have run into along the way.
The first issue is that the magazines have a really tight fit. The first time I thought that it might be a slightly unravel bed causing a slight warp or layer shift, but this time I'm certain that the bed was level and it's still a tight fit. The second issue is that there is an excessive amount of supports. I'm sure that this can be fixed by changing some setting, but Im not sure what that setting is. The supports that I've had no doubt added several hours to al already long print. It also leads to an ugly stringy texture where the supports used to be. The third issue is kind of a head scratcher. The first attempt printed backwards. It is a mirror image of what it should be. The second print is fine in that way, but I would still like to know what happened so I don't waste 23 hours printing a bad part in the future. I sliced the PY2A model as-is using Cura and printed on an Ender 3 v2. |
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Posted: 8/14/2021 3:34:17 AM EDT
[#45]
Probably missed it here being discussed but would PETG work? I know it's more flexible which might not work so well but it's stronger and more heat resistant.
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Posted: 8/14/2021 11:10:16 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Probably missed it here being discussed but would PETG work? I know it's more flexible which might not work so well but it's stronger and more heat resistant. PLA+ is still the best option for the casual printer user, and stronger options like ABS and Nylon and the exotics for those setup to print such materials. |
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Posted: 8/14/2021 12:52:17 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, people have tried it and it tends to end in catastrophic failure. PETG has better heat resistance and is a little more flexible than PLA(+), and I think that bit of flex/stretch is what causes these frames to fail in that material. PLA+ is still the best option for the casual printer user, and stronger options like ABS and Nylon and the exotics for those setup to print such materials. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Probably missed it here being discussed but would PETG work? I know it's more flexible which might not work so well but it's stronger and more heat resistant. PLA+ is still the best option for the casual printer user, and stronger options like ABS and Nylon and the exotics for those setup to print such materials. Thought that might be the situation, thanks. |
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Posted: 8/14/2021 10:03:42 PM EDT
[#48]
Finished my first one but the trigger pull is atrocious....and cant find the problem...
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Posted: 8/16/2021 9:24:38 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, people have tried it and it tends to end in catastrophic failure. PETG has better heat resistance and is a little more flexible than PLA(+), and I think that bit of flex/stretch is what causes these frames to fail in that material. PLA+ is still the best option for the casual printer user, and stronger options like ABS and Nylon and the exotics for those setup to print such materials. I'm just starting to print a G26 in PETG just to try it out, still have the nicest prints in PLA+ so far. Edit: And it failed, lots of blue PETG spaghetti. Will mess with it again in a bit. Edit2: I ended up tossing that old roll of PETG today as it seed to have issues, installed a fresh roll of ESun PLA+ in white and for some reason it likes much hotter temps than past rolls I have used. I normally print at 200-208 but this new roll clogs at anything lower than about 203-204. Running a retraction test a 210 then will print a temp tower to find the best temp. |
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Posted: 8/20/2021 12:48:21 AM EDT
[#50]
I printed a G19 hentai frame just for kicks at the recommended layer height. I used a Voxelab Aeries It came out way better than I expected, with the only issue being the proprietary slicer. You obviously want supports, but the slicer adds supports to the graphics on the grips and makes them come out all messed up.
I printed it in plain old Hatchbox PLA and printed top down on the build surface and there was definitely some cleanup needed, but it feels very solid. I just need to get setup to print a material that won't melt in a hot car. But for now, the novelty of it is fun. Took right close to 24.5 hours to print. The rails and locking block slipped right in after cleaning up where the supports were, and the holes line up right where they should. Dimensionally, it looks like it turned out really good. I will know more when the lower parts show up and I can try a slide and barrel I have lying around. I will likely just destroy this frame after function checking it and print a "keeper" one out of a better material once I either figure out nylon, or try some carbon fiber ABS. |
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