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Posted: 2/5/2021 12:25:03 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can you post a pic looking down the RSA channel? The clearance between the dustcover and the rail is mostly what I'm interested in. I know tmwith the poly80 compact frames you can do it but it's so thin it cracks. The CL models could do it no problem however as that part of the frame was different and thicker.  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/5/2021 12:32:30 PM EDT
[#2]
@TGE thanks for posting those pics. I'll get dimensions off a gen 4 frame and slide. It looks like it "may" work....
Also nice quality print you got there. Your printer looks to be pretty well dialed in. What's your infill on that print? |
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Posted: 2/5/2021 1:41:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @TGE thanks for posting those pics. I'll get dimensions off a gen 4 frame and slide. It looks like it "may" work.... Also nice quality print you got there. Your printer looks to be pretty well dialed in. What's your infill on that print? And thanks, I think I've stumbled onto the sweet spots for temp and speed on this particular PLA+. I'm at 99% infill on these frames. |
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Posted: 2/7/2021 9:46:15 PM EDT
[#4]
PY2A updated file worked for me. No more battery issue. Seems to have been under extruding a bit. Calibration seems to have worked. Need to oil it up to get rid of the white sanding marks, but for now it is ready for a test fire.
 Attached FilePrinter just finished a P80 frame to try next. First P80 print doesn't set the trigger correctly, safety misses the frame. Hopefully the same issue of under extruding.  Attached FileNext up, reattempting the tower support print. Failed miserably about 4 times due to adhesion and support to frame interface. But I think I figured out the flaws and found a way to manually add supports to shore it up in the weaker areas. |
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Posted: 2/9/2021 9:50:49 AM EDT
[#5]
I can report that it'll shoot. I hunted last night and used it for the coup de grace on a hog. Did 2 shots actually, mostly to confirm function. That'll do pig, that'll do.
I'm not sure about the big circle-dot Holosun reticle with NVGs though, seemed to obscure the target too much. But I know at least part of it was that it was about as dark as it can get last night, which hurts looking through coated optics. |
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Posted: 2/10/2021 12:27:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I can report that it'll shoot. I hunted last night and used it for the coup de grace on a hog. Did 2 shots actually, mostly to confirm function. That'll do pig, that'll do. I'm not sure about the big circle-dot Holosun reticle with NVGs though, seemed to obscure the target too much. But I know at least part of it was that it was about as dark as it can get last night, which hurts looking through coated optics. Were you wearing binos or mono? I am wanting to get that sight for a pistol and hoping binos would help me ignore the big circle |
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Posted: 2/10/2021 1:26:34 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Were you wearing binos or mono? I am wanting to get that sight for a pistol and hoping binos would help me ignore the big circle Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I can report that it'll shoot. I hunted last night and used it for the coup de grace on a hog. Did 2 shots actually, mostly to confirm function. That'll do pig, that'll do. I'm not sure about the big circle-dot Holosun reticle with NVGs though, seemed to obscure the target too much. But I know at least part of it was that it was about as dark as it can get last night, which hurts looking through coated optics. Were you wearing binos or mono? I am wanting to get that sight for a pistol and hoping binos would help me ignore the big circle |
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Posted: 2/11/2021 7:36:06 PM EDT
[#8]
Ran another PY2A but using the tower supports and mag base down. Certainly easier to clean up, but was a little hairy despite retraction being dialed in with test towers. Internal area is super clean. Went ahead and assembled it for a trial run. Just waiting on sights to show up.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/11/2021 8:43:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ran another PY2A but using the tower supports and mag base down. Certainly easier to clean up, but was a little hairy despite retraction being dialed in with test towers. Internal area is super clean. Went ahead and assembled it for a trial run. Just waiting on sights to show up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/851__1__jpg-1820750.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/20210210_140659_jpg-1820751.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/20210211_105349_jpg-1820752.JPG I'm not an engineer but that particular angle on the layers seems like it ought to be ideal to handle the recoil and action of the slide. |
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Posted: 2/12/2021 6:55:30 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ran another PY2A but using the tower supports and mag base down. Certainly easier to clean up, but was a little hairy despite retraction being dialed in with test towers. Internal area is super clean. Went ahead and assembled it for a trial run. Just waiting on sights to show up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/851__1__jpg-1820750.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/20210210_140659_jpg-1820751.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/20210211_105349_jpg-1820752.JPG Did you add those supports yourself or was that in the .stl already? |
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Posted: 2/13/2021 1:06:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Did you add those supports yourself or was that in the .stl already? Added them in and used tower supports with a 79° overhang limitation. There is a plugin for Cura that allows you to specify support locations, just like how you can block them. Block supports on the pin holes, add to the mag base, tang and front rail. The rest are popped in by Cura.  Attached File Attached File Attached FileIf I were to do it again then I would reduce the amount of supports on the mag base. Chunked off a bit of material when removing them, therefore printed a magwell to cover the flaw. Also make sure to use a raft for adhesion. Several failures on the towers sticking with nothing and brim tried. Time to switch over to AR lowers. |
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Posted: 2/13/2021 4:08:04 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Added them in and used tower supports with a 79° overhang limitation. There is a plugin for Cura that allows you to specify support locations, just like how you can block them. Block supports on the pin holes, add to the mag base, tang and front rail. The rest are popped in by Cura. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/image_png-1823071.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235560889_image_png-1823073.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235578628_image_png-1823074.JPG If I were to do it again then I would reduce the amount of supports on the mag base. Chunked off a bit of material when removing them, therefore printed a magwell to cover the flaw. Also make sure to use a raft for adhesion. Several failures on the towers sticking with nothing and brim tried. Time to switch over to AR lowers. Thank you. I’m gonna give that a go next week. |
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Posted: 2/13/2021 7:18:41 PM EDT
[#13]
Finally got my first attempt at a G19 together today. Never shot a glock before, let alone taken one apart, so there's been some learning invovled. Seems like it functions fine with snap caps, it's a balmy -35* windchill today so I probably won't be testing it for real quite yet. The trigger sucks, right around 7#, I need to do some filing where the trigger bar rubs on the plastic a little bit. This one was 3DFuel Workday PLA, I'll probably print V2 in either black or olive green Pro PLA if I can catch the green back in stock.
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Posted: 2/13/2021 7:49:29 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Finally got my first attempt at a G19 together today. Never shot a glock before, let alone taken one apart, so there's been some learning invovled. Seems like it functions fine with snap caps, it's a balmy -35* windchill today so I probably won't be testing it for real quite yet. The trigger sucks, right around 7#, I need to do some filing where the trigger bar rubs on the plastic a little bit. This one was 3DFuel Workday PLA, I'll probably print V2 in either black or olive green Pro PLA if I can catch the green back in stock. http://i.imgur.com/fnR7YNF.jpg I haven't taken mine apart to do it, but it needs some filing in the same spot as yours. It shoots, but the trigger is very "scrapy" and heavy. |
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Posted: 2/13/2021 7:51:21 PM EDT
[#15]
Wonderfully clean print. I have some of the normal 3dfuel PLA and it prints very well, but I have found it very weak and brittle. The tougher stuff you have seems to print every bit as well.
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Posted: 2/15/2021 5:54:29 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you. I’m gonna give that a go next week. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Added them in and used tower supports with a 79° overhang limitation. There is a plugin for Cura that allows you to specify support locations, just like how you can block them. Block supports on the pin holes, add to the mag base, tang and front rail. The rest are popped in by Cura. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/image_png-1823071.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235560889_image_png-1823073.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235578628_image_png-1823074.JPG If I were to do it again then I would reduce the amount of supports on the mag base. Chunked off a bit of material when removing them, therefore printed a magwell to cover the flaw. Also make sure to use a raft for adhesion. Several failures on the towers sticking with nothing and brim tried. Time to switch over to AR lowers. Thank you. I’m gonna give that a go next week. Well, I have a DickButt19 now. I’m not thrilled with the print resolution but whatever. I realized I have an entire gen3 G19 LPK in my parts bin, so if the rail kit will ever come back in stock I’ll build it and go shoot it.  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/15/2021 6:38:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, I have a DickButt19 now. I'm not thrilled with the print resolution but whatever. I realized I have an entire gen3 G19 LPK in my parts bin, so if the rail kit will ever come back in stock I'll build it and go shoot it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/A7863031-032E-4BB0-8D3F-02F86933DBFD_jpe-1826983.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Added them in and used tower supports with a 79 overhang limitation. There is a plugin for Cura that allows you to specify support locations, just like how you can block them. Block supports on the pin holes, add to the mag base, tang and front rail. The rest are popped in by Cura. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/image_png-1823071.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235560889_image_png-1823073.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235578628_image_png-1823074.JPG If I were to do it again then I would reduce the amount of supports on the mag base. Chunked off a bit of material when removing them, therefore printed a magwell to cover the flaw. Also make sure to use a raft for adhesion. Several failures on the towers sticking with nothing and brim tried. Time to switch over to AR lowers. Thank you. I'm gonna give that a go next week. Well, I have a DickButt19 now. I'm not thrilled with the print resolution but whatever. I realized I have an entire gen3 G19 LPK in my parts bin, so if the rail kit will ever come back in stock I'll build it and go shoot it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/142455/A7863031-032E-4BB0-8D3F-02F86933DBFD_jpe-1826983.JPG 
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Posted: 2/16/2021 9:37:39 PM EDT
[#18]
I had a chance to try out the G19 quick this past weekend. It was still colder than cold, so it was a real quick run over to the range. I got it to go bang twice, the rest of my attempts were light strikes. It seemed like if I pulled the slide back and let it load a round it would fire, but if I used the slide release then it would get a light strike. I thought maybe it was because I didn't use much oil when I assembled all the parts into the slide, so I took that apart and lubed everything up good and then re-assembled it.
Tonight after work I stepped out in my yard and tried it again. This time I got 2 rounds in a row to fire, then the third was a light strike. It did that twice, where the first couple fired and #3 was a light strike. Looking at it in the right light, it seems like the rear of the slide has a little (1mm or so) gap between it and the top of the frame. In the front the slide is pretty close to flush to the top of the frame. Is it possible that the rear rails are flexing and letting the rear of the slide ride up a bit? Would trimming a couple coils off of that firing pin block spring help take some of the tension off? I don't know anything about Glock's, and don't have another one to compare to. I've been an M&P person up until now, which isn't super helpful on this particular project. Light strike on the left, one that fired on the right. 
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Posted: 2/17/2021 10:25:30 PM EDT
[#19]
Looking at your primer strikes, the pin is hitting off center. On a glock the firing pin is supposed to slice into the primer because of the striker action (ie no spring loaded hammer like in other pistols). I'd say that your locking block or the rails are not quite right and its affecting the position of the barrel in relation to the slide. I printed 2 of these frames. The first one the locking block just did not look right and the rails were not parallel to the frame. I reprinted and everything lined up correctly.
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Posted: 2/18/2021 6:58:53 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looking at your primer strikes, the pin is hitting off center. On a glock the firing pin is supposed to slice into the primer because of the striker action (ie no spring loaded hammer like in other pistols). I'd say that your locking block or the rails are not quite right and its affecting the position of the barrel in relation to the slide. I printed 2 of these frames. The first one the locking block just did not look right and the rails were not parallel to the frame. I reprinted and everything lined up correctly. +1, let's see the slide and barrel hood when the gun is fully assembled and worked a few times. I bet he needs to do a lot more dry-fire/slingshots and lube everything to loosen it up, otherwise it is hanging up just a hair off from fully locked up. Kharn |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 7:01:28 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Finally got my first attempt at a G19 together today. Never shot a glock before, let alone taken one apart, so there's been some learning invovled. Seems like it functions fine with snap caps, it's a balmy -35* windchill today so I probably won't be testing it for real quite yet. The trigger sucks, right around 7#, I need to do some filing where the trigger bar rubs on the plastic a little bit. This one was 3DFuel Workday PLA, I'll probably print V2 in either black or olive green Pro PLA if I can catch the green back in stock. http://i.imgur.com/fnR7YNF.jpg If you need to function test a 9mm pistol, put a #2 pencil down the barrel, eraser against the breach face. If the pencil leaves the barrel when hit by the firing pin, you have more than sufficient energy to pop the primer. Kharn |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 12:35:34 PM EDT
[#22]
I'm on the hunt for a new 9mm, and I'm taking a close look at the P80 (the DIY 80% kit, not printed) due to the non-stupid grip angle/hump thing on Glocks. However, I did find the files to print a P80 frame. Going to print that out on regular model settings, just to see if I like the angle before ordering the kit.
All that got me thinking: Manufacturers should put out files for printing their pistols. Not how to print individual parts, but to print the entire body, like a blue gun. This would be good for gun shops to let people try out the feel for different pistols while not having inventory, good for individuals to print out for the same, good for holster makers, etc. The more people who are interested in a particular pistol, the more accessories are for it, the more they can sell. Do manufacturers do this and I just missed it? |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 12:47:37 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm on the hunt for a new 9mm, and I'm taking a close look at the P80 (the DIY 80% kit, not printed) due to the non-stupid grip angle/hump thing on Glocks. However, I did find the files to print a P80 frame. Going to print that out on regular model settings, just to see if I like the angle before ordering the kit. All that got me thinking: Manufacturers should put out files for printing their pistols. Not how to print individual parts, but to print the entire body, like a blue gun. This would be good for gun shops to let people try out the feel for different pistols while not having inventory, good for individuals to print out for the same, good for holster makers, etc. The more people who are interested in a particular pistol, the more accessories are for it, the more they can sell. Do manufacturers do this and I just missed it? I agree, those would be handy. I do a little hobby kydex, so it'd also be nice to run off models for that rather than buying $60ish blue guns. |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 10:39:07 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think I've seen a model or two done by individuals, but I've never run across mfg files. I agree, those would be handy. I do a little hobby kydex, so it'd also be nice to run off models for that rather than buying $60ish blue guns. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I'm on the hunt for a new 9mm, and I'm taking a close look at the P80 (the DIY 80% kit, not printed) due to the non-stupid grip angle/hump thing on Glocks. However, I did find the files to print a P80 frame. Going to print that out on regular model settings, just to see if I like the angle before ordering the kit. All that got me thinking: Manufacturers should put out files for printing their pistols. Not how to print individual parts, but to print the entire body, like a blue gun. This would be good for gun shops to let people try out the feel for different pistols while not having inventory, good for individuals to print out for the same, good for holster makers, etc. The more people who are interested in a particular pistol, the more accessories are for it, the more they can sell. Do manufacturers do this and I just missed it? I agree, those would be handy. I do a little hobby kydex, so it'd also be nice to run off models for that rather than buying $60ish blue guns. I'd be worried the kydex would melt the PLA when you are forming it. You'd need to use a higher temp filament to use for a kydex forming gun. The universe of things has more than a few "dummy guns", you just have to find the right search terms. Interestingly "10/22" gives no results, but searching "Ruger" you get plenty of results. Working parts too... |
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Posted: 2/19/2021 5:46:06 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ran another PY2A but using the tower supports and mag base down. Certainly easier to clean up, but was a little hairy despite retraction being dialed in with test towers. Internal area is super clean. Went ahead and assembled it for a trial run. Just waiting on sights to show up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/851__1__jpg-1820750.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/20210210_140659_jpg-1820751.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/20210211_105349_jpg-1820752.JPG I printed a G17 and G19 frame slide down and have been a bit unhappy with the finish of the inside because of how the supports printed. Your prints internal areas look WAY better than my prints, really fantastic!! Will give it a go this evening. |
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Posted: 2/19/2021 8:53:15 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Added them in and used tower supports with a 79° overhang limitation. There is a plugin for Cura that allows you to specify support locations, just like how you can block them. Block supports on the pin holes, add to the mag base, tang and front rail. The rest are popped in by Cura. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/image_png-1823071.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235560889_image_png-1823073.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235578628_image_png-1823074.JPG If I were to do it again then I would reduce the amount of supports on the mag base. Chunked off a bit of material when removing them, therefore printed a magwell to cover the flaw. Also make sure to use a raft for adhesion. Several failures on the towers sticking with nothing and brim tried. Time to switch over to AR lowers. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Did you add those supports yourself or was that in the .stl already? Added them in and used tower supports with a 79° overhang limitation. There is a plugin for Cura that allows you to specify support locations, just like how you can block them. Block supports on the pin holes, add to the mag base, tang and front rail. The rest are popped in by Cura. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/image_png-1823071.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235560889_image_png-1823073.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509057/1613235578628_image_png-1823074.JPG If I were to do it again then I would reduce the amount of supports on the mag base. Chunked off a bit of material when removing them, therefore printed a magwell to cover the flaw. Also make sure to use a raft for adhesion. Several failures on the towers sticking with nothing and brim tried. Time to switch over to AR lowers. Just for posterity, here's a video on that "add supports" plugin: https://youtu.be/owgUmQao2ME |
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Posted: 2/19/2021 11:04:07 PM EDT
[#27]
I've printed a couple of these on an Ender 3 V2. I used Overture PLA+ at 215 degrees. They came out almost flawlessly. I don't have any pics right now. If you're using cura, looks for how to use tree supports, its a hidden setting. They are awesome. Print faster, use less material, and require practically no cleanup.
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Posted: 2/21/2021 10:15:42 PM EDT
[#28]
Not much of an update, but it finally warmed up here and I went out today for a quick mag dump. All good, no issues. I need to put a lot more through it before I make any pronouncements, but at least I can say so far so good.
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Posted: 3/4/2021 7:27:03 PM EDT
[#29]
Took it out for a night shoot Saturday. I love the Holosun with nvgs, and the gun seems at least as accurate as I am. No difference between shooting this and my normal g19, except for the trigger connector. Blech, ordered a Lantac SSR 3.5,should be here tomorrow to smooth the pull and shorten the reset a hair. Best $13 I've spent on an "upgrade" like this for any gun.
Not really sure on my round count, got in triple digits I'm pretty sure though. I did have an issue that ended my night with it though - slide lock spring loosened up somehow and allowed the slide to move too far forward. Tough to see in the dark of course. The py2a instructions recommend a G17 slide lock spring, so I ordered an OEM and it showed up today. It definitely get down further in the slot and puts much more upward pressure on the lock. I cut off 3/16" and had to do a little bending but seems much better now. Top spring is obviously the G17 and you can immediately see what I'm talking about. I highly recommend getting the longer spring even if you already have the g19 one. It was like 6 bucks shipped or something.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/4/2021 9:48:23 PM EDT
[#30]
I ran off another one in 3DFuel olive green pro pla. At first I attempted it (twice) with the front angled down and using tree supports. Both times it failed when the trigger guard broke away and then became a spaghetti mess. The third time I ran it pointed up, and with regular supports. It came out much better, and the inside was super clean. All of the parts and pins fit on the first try, and I didn't have to do any sanding or filing to get the trigger to operate smoothly.
I still had issues with light strikes on this frame, which leads me to believe it may be more in the combination of parts in the slide than anything to do with the printed portion. It seems like sometimes it is stopping just barely short of fully locked up, but still enough that it will drop the striker. But if I run my finger over it, the barrel hood is just below the top of the slide when it's not fully locked and gets a light strike. So far I've got it up to 5 shots in a row, so I think more working the slide and firing will get it loosened up eventually. Attempt 1 (and 2 was similar)  Attempt 3 worked out well  
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Posted: 3/5/2021 9:28:02 AM EDT
[#31]
@TGE, thanks for the suggestion on the connector. Might have to do that every one I have.
@SDeadeye Your third attempt looks pretty clean. Is it version 1 or 2 from PY2A? I found V2 to work much better in terms of clearances and slide function. You can also do the same sanding technique in the P80 thread to help with the rail roughness and possible binding. |
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Posted: 3/5/2021 9:43:57 AM EDT
[#32]
Quoted: I ran off another one in 3DFuel olive green pro pla. At first I attempted it (twice) with the front angled down and using tree supports. Both times it failed when the trigger guard broke away and then became a spaghetti mess. The third time I ran it pointed up, and with regular supports. It came out much better, and the inside was super clean. All of the parts and pins fit on the first try, and I didn't have to do any sanding or filing to get the trigger to operate smoothly. I still had issues with light strikes on this frame, which leads me to believe it may be more in the combination of parts in the slide than anything to do with the printed portion. It seems like sometimes it is stopping just barely short of fully locked up, but still enough that it will drop the striker. But if I run my finger over it, the barrel hood is just below the top of the slide when it's not fully locked and gets a light strike. So far I've got it up to 5 shots in a row, so I think more working the slide and firing will get it loosened up eventually. Attempt 1 (and 2 was similar) https://i.imgur.com/uhunsFhh.jpg Attempt 3 worked out well https://i.imgur.com/AEqsqFDh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AP8fqal.jpg Agree with C-ham above about maybe giving the rails a little love. I used a dremel with a buffing wheel and compound to shine mine up, and the difference between when they showed up and now is noticeable. Pretty rough to super slick, and I'd guess it took 5 or 10 minutes. Quoted: @TGE, thanks for the suggestion on the connector. Might have to do that every one I have. @SDeadeye Your third attempt looks pretty clean. Is it version 1 or 2 from PY2A? I found V2 to work much better in terms of clearances and slide function. You can also do the same sanding technique in the P80 thread to help with the rail roughness and possible binding.  |
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Posted: 3/5/2021 1:05:09 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @TGE, thanks for the suggestion on the connector. Might have to do that every one I have. @SDeadeye Your third attempt looks pretty clean. Is it version 1 or 2 from PY2A? I found V2 to work much better in terms of clearances and slide function. You can also do the same sanding technique in the P80 thread to help with the rail roughness and possible binding. That one was the V2 file. The only thing I had to do was take a little material off in the groove for the mag catch spring. It needed to be able to go just a little farther for the mags to drop free. |
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Posted: 3/6/2021 5:53:22 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Took it out for a night shoot Saturday. I love the Holosun with nvgs, and the gun seems at least as accurate as I am. No difference between shooting this and my normal g19, except for the trigger connector. Blech, ordered a Lantac SSR 3.5,should be here tomorrow to smooth the pull and shorten the reset a hair. Best $13 I've spent on an "upgrade" like this for any gun. Not really sure on my round count, got in triple digits I'm pretty sure though. I did have an issue that ended my night with it though - slide lock spring loosened up somehow and allowed the slide to move too far forward. Tough to see in the dark of course. The py2a instructions recommend a G17 slide lock spring, so I ordered an OEM and it showed up today. It definitely get down further in the slot and puts much more upward pressure on the lock. I cut off 3/16" and had to do a little bending but seems much better now. Top spring is obviously the G17 and you can immediately see what I'm talking about. I highly recommend getting the longer spring even if you already have the g19 one. It was like 6 bucks shipped or something. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/384595/IMG_20210304_172012_jpg-1851593.JPG My locking block showed up today so I started to put it together and ran into this. My G19 spring won't even reach the slide lock, so I guess I need to order a G17 spring. I also need to clean out the mag release spring channel so mags will drop free. Otherwise though this thing is surprisingly not terrible. |
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Posted: 3/6/2021 6:27:45 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My locking block showed up today so I started to put it together and ran into this. My G19 spring won't even reach the slide lock, so I guess I need to order a G17 spring. I also need to clean out the mag release spring channel so mags will drop free. Otherwise though this thing is surprisingly not terrible. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Took it out for a night shoot Saturday. I love the Holosun with nvgs, and the gun seems at least as accurate as I am. No difference between shooting this and my normal g19, except for the trigger connector. Blech, ordered a Lantac SSR 3.5,should be here tomorrow to smooth the pull and shorten the reset a hair. Best $13 I've spent on an "upgrade" like this for any gun. Not really sure on my round count, got in triple digits I'm pretty sure though. I did have an issue that ended my night with it though - slide lock spring loosened up somehow and allowed the slide to move too far forward. Tough to see in the dark of course. The py2a instructions recommend a G17 slide lock spring, so I ordered an OEM and it showed up today. It definitely get down further in the slot and puts much more upward pressure on the lock. I cut off 3/16" and had to do a little bending but seems much better now. Top spring is obviously the G17 and you can immediately see what I'm talking about. I highly recommend getting the longer spring even if you already have the g19 one. It was like 6 bucks shipped or something. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/384595/IMG_20210304_172012_jpg-1851593.JPG My locking block showed up today so I started to put it together and ran into this. My G19 spring won't even reach the slide lock, so I guess I need to order a G17 spring. I also need to clean out the mag release spring channel so mags will drop free. Otherwise though this thing is surprisingly not terrible. But if you just want to test fire it today or tomorrow, bend that g19 spring until it looks like mine above and it'll get you through a couple shots I bet. |
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Posted: 3/6/2021 11:53:36 PM EDT
[#36]
Anyone know what happened to the g45 file?
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Posted: 3/7/2021 2:43:44 AM EDT
[#37]
whats the best print angle?
Top side down? or mag side down at angle? Might try a print tomorrow... |
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Posted: 3/7/2021 10:29:36 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted: Anyone know what happened to the g45 file? You may try emailing him directly in case there's some major flaw in the design. Quoted: whats the best print angle? Top side down? or mag side down at angle? Might try a print tomorrow... I did mine at a muzzle-down angle and they turned out great. Next one I do will be angled muzzle-up like C-ham's a few posts up. I was messing with the model last night and found that a 60 degree angle from perpendicular actually gave me almost identical print time and material use as the way I did mine. I'm thinking the mag well doesn't need supports at that particular angle. Whatever the case, I'm no engineer but in my mind the straight back recoil force seems like it'd be best handled by that muzzle-up angle - the layer stack just looks right for the backward jolt. |
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Posted: 3/15/2021 8:30:29 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: whats the best print angle? IMHO right side up, magwell down. That does result in a bunch of clean-up on the bottom of the magwell, trigger guard, and dustcover/rail, but it almost always gives a totally clean internal area. It is a good tradeoff in my book. |
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Posted: 3/16/2021 7:24:00 PM EDT
[#40]
https://gun.deals/product/build-your-own-glock-19-complete-slide-29638-free-shipping
$266shipped for a non-rmr slide with rear serrations and cuts for irons, 3cr parts kit, black nitride barrel(threaded or non threaded appear to be same price). Grabbed this combo for my gray PLA+ G19 frame since my goal with that is a cheap iron-sight build that I can throw in the safe for a rainy day. Not sure if there are any combos that can get the price lower, but I did find that most of the other slides were out of stock. |
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Posted: 3/17/2021 5:07:40 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://gun.deals/product/build-your-own-glock-19-complete-slide-29638-free-shipping $266shipped for a non-rmr slide with rear serrations and cuts for irons, 3cr parts kit, black nitride barrel(threaded or non threaded appear to be same price). Grabbed this combo for my gray PLA+ G19 frame since my goal with that is a cheap iron-sight build that I can throw in the safe for a rainy day. Not sure if there are any combos that can get the price lower, but I did find that most of the other slides were out of stock. Thanks! |
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Posted: 3/18/2021 4:01:35 PM EDT
[#42]
Who's a good source for frame parts kits?
I'm about to start printing a FMDA 19.2. I did a test print with some suspect humidity damaged PLA+ and it came out pretty good. So now it's time to print for real. |
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Posted: 3/18/2021 8:11:45 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Who's a good source for frame parts kits? I'm about to start printing a FMDA 19.2. I did a test print with some suspect humidity damaged PLA+ and it came out pretty good. So now it's time to print for real.  For some reason I thought I'd gotten an OEM lpk but went back and checked afterwards - nope. |
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Posted: 3/19/2021 6:46:15 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://gun.deals/product/build-your-own-glock-19-complete-slide-29638-free-shipping $266shipped for a non-rmr slide with rear serrations and cuts for irons, 3cr parts kit, black nitride barrel(threaded or non threaded appear to be same price). Grabbed this combo for my gray PLA+ G19 frame since my goal with that is a cheap iron-sight build that I can throw in the safe for a rainy day. Not sure if there are any combos that can get the price lower, but I did find that most of the other slides were out of stock. Thanks! Well that didn’t take long. The slide itself seems to be well made but the parts kit it came with is junk ...but so is the rest of the gun haha. This thing is going to be objectively terrible and I might paint it neon pink or something else obnoxious. Still waiting on that G17 slide lock spring..  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/20/2021 12:30:55 AM EDT
[#45]
This is a g69 I printed and cut down for g26 mags. Feels like it will be handy to carry if it works. I'll find out Monday!
 Attached File |
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Posted: 3/20/2021 10:18:47 PM EDT
[#46]
Finally tested one of the PY2A G19 prints. Worked for the most part, couple misfeeds. Only put 2 mags through it, second mag was flawless.
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Posted: 3/22/2021 6:49:26 PM EDT
[#47]
Got my 3cr tactical build-your-own G19 slide kit today. The safety plunger doesn't fit its hole in the slide so that put an abrupt stop to the build, sent them an e-mail about it. It's so close that I could tap the plunger down in to place and it'd be a super tight fit, obviously don't want to do that though.
This is my first time installing the plastic spring retainers on to the firing pin assembly. Took about 30 minutes, and 25 of that was spent looking for the one that shot off and hit me in the forehead. Fuck everything about that part of the build. The kit came with a channel liner and plastic channel liner tool which was neat of them to do, installed with no issues at all. Already have a metal channel liner installer and a lag bolt for removing them so the plastic one got thrown in the spare parts bin. Test drove the bare slide on my completed py2a g19 frame. Definitely do not like the cheaper metal rails that py2a sells. The slide fits, but it's a tight fit and I have to put in effort to move the slide back and forth. Feels rough. Once the slide is done I'll throw some aeroshell on the rails and break 'er in, but I'm thinking I now want the polished/stainless rails py2a sells. |
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Posted: 3/22/2021 7:13:35 PM EDT
[#48]
Went ahead and installed the barrel and recoil spring and tossed the slide on to the completed frame after aeroshell greasing the rails. After a few minutes it smoothed out, but still a tad gritty because of the cheap rails. Slide lock lever works, slide lock back on empty mag works, slide release works. Can't really test the trigger, reset, etc until I can complete the slide but so far everything else seems OK.
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Posted: 3/22/2021 10:40:12 PM EDT
[#49]
I've been able to smooth up Glock actions by gently polishing the crap out of the rails and other contact surfaces with jeweler's rouge. It is amazing how dirty factory parts are. I don't know if it is some sort of light storage preservative or just manufacturing residue. If you haven't already, give all the metal bits a quick polish-up once over and then use a light grease for lube instead of oil. It made a world of difference.
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Posted: 3/24/2021 4:56:34 PM EDT
[#50]
 Attached FileI tried to paint it pink but the paint I used cured red. Looks kinda cool though. A friend of mine is going to make me some vinyl dickbutt decals for the slide. It’s not the most reliable thing in the world, and tends to lock up on the last round, but hey, at least it’s obnoxious. |
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