I did both. You just have to be careful around the threads and go slow. I used these. They aren't high quality but they are cheap (right up your alley) and I didn't really need them for anything else.

Calm down..the nic buzz is obviously causing you to post waaay too much!!!

We try to do whatever we can do whenever we can do it however it can be done.

Let us know!!

Cross post from other thread, I wouldn't suggest the double barrel one....
This much 30ga wire is 1.8 Ohms, the area in between will be wrapped onto the M3 bolt, following the threads.
The Tobeco little black box 510 Ohmmeter with Blue display matches my (far more expensive and calibrated) LCRZ Meter to within 1 digit in the last position!  So when the 510 Ohmmeter box  says 1.14 ohms, it is somewhere between 1.13 and 1.15 ohms on the precision LCRZ meter.  

I'd say that little black box Ohmmeter is Extremely Accurate for twice the price!  It's more accurate than a Digital Multimeter for sure.  I'd believe what the little box says over what any mod says the resistance is.   The MVP 2 is off by as much as 0.2 Ohms (20 times worse accuracy than the little black box).



Wrapped 5/4 turns around an M3 screw, it makes a known 1.8 Ohm coil, it is a basic coil that I know works well for most everything. so I make several identical ones


I then pull through either 1.5mm or 2mm silica rope x2, or 1.5mm (sometimes 2 mm) Ekowool/Silica braid x2, I notice the braid holds more juice for same length.
I wrap several at a time when I am in the mood.  In the back is a double coil I like with thicker juices.  The frazzled rope is due to PITA of squeezing silica into small coil.


The "double barrel" coil (Top Center) is 1.5 Ohms, made two 3 Ohm, then twisted the leads together in parallel, they just fit in a Kayfun, you need to get the height right.
Those coils were made around a 3/32" shaft, 9 turns each, then one had 1.5mm silica rope pulled through, the other had 1.5mm ekowool/silica braid doubled through.

The "pull through" tool is a stainless steel "bracelet threading needle" from a local hobby store.  It's way stronger than Kanthal when pulling hard to get thick silica to fit into too small of a coil.   If the silica is just too big, the stainless steel needle actually cuts the silica rather than breaking.

Once they are assembled and the leads are pointed about the right direction, I torch them while holding with the ceramic tipped tweezers.  

Ceramic tweezers are awesome for two reasons:  White tips are very easy to see when you have silver wire, a silver jig, and a silver Kayfun for background, they provide a nice contrast to see exactly what you are doing compared to stainless tweezers.    Second reason:  You can hold your coil tight with them and torch it to a micro coil in one go.  

The downside of the ceramic tweezers:  They are the same color at room temp as they are when extremely hot after cooking a micro coil, you learn that one fast.


--ETA:  When rebuilding a coil, Kayfun and Protanks work best when the coil is the highest point. If there is wick higher than the middle of the coil, it will want to stay flooded.

The difference between what you see above, and a micro coil is a 10 second easy process after I unscrew the coil from the M3 bolt.  I just squeeze it with the tweezers and heat to red hot, and it's a nice ~7/64" (just shy of 3mm)  internal diameter micro coil (another cool benefit of the ceramic tweezers!).   I skip that step, and it's a nice "traditional coil"

These last longer with the fruity flavors I've been using lately.   The micro-coils get hotter or something and the sugar (or something) coats the coil much quicker.  I can go a couple weeks with what is seen above, at 2 tanks a day.  With a micro coil, i barely make it a week with sweet stuff, and the burnt flavor is way strong, not just a hint of it.    Micro coil works great with the darker/tobacco e-juices.    

Either way, I clean them by removing the wick, then torching the coil, quenching in cold water so the Positive spacer doesn't melt, and repeat 2-4 times until coil looks new, then I just pull through new wick.  I could re-use the same wick after torching it, but it's usually pretty frazzled.  Keeping the wick in when cleaning makes it take a LONG time due to the heat sink effect of the wick.

After about the 3rd cleaning, the coil is so brittle it usually breaks when trying to pull through new wick.   Every time the wire is heated red/white hot and cooled it gets a bit more brittle.

--ETA:  I am just vaping to stop smoking, not chase clouds.  So the wattage I'm running these at is between 7.5W-9W is all.

There's also the theory that the more wick that is in contact with the coil, the more vapor produced, so I'm experimenting with that.  I don't really make enough vapor to do a test of output, just useful life.

Maybe one of the more experienced around here with an RDA (extra room) could make a long looser wrapped coil (like I have above), as well as a micro coil of the same resistance and see which puts out more vapor, and which lasts longest with useful vaporizing effect?

Ok, got a slightly better camera and am showing more detail.  This is one of the 1.8 Ohm coils I made above (measured 1.8002 Ohms on LCRZ meter).

Mounted in a Kayfun, then pinched together to be a microcoil, then torched (this is the first time the wire has been torched since it was in my possession).   I don't torch prior to winding or after, I only torch it once, so it holds the form it is in at the time the torch is applied.

Note, the LBB 510 Ohmmeter is dead spot on with a much higher quality and priced piece of engineering equipment:


Closeup of the M3 coil with 2 pieces of 2.5mm silica rope through coil:


Why I do not trust the MVP Resistance Measurement:

I always put 2-3 drops in the chamber before capping it off, no matter what I"m using for wicking material.  It just makes things go smoother.  

Letting it sit vertical for a minute or so after filling (and priming before filling) should fix feeding issues.  It may be a bit of a wet hit to start, but not a dry one.  Cotton balls hate dry/ or non-primed burns, it messes up the flavor sort of permanently.