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Posted: 9/6/2008 9:22:21 AM EDT
First time I did a job like this so I followed all instructions, with a new tube of caulk. On Monday morning I stripped the old caulk out, and cleaned thorougly with Simply Green. After a few hours tp let it dry, I cleaned again with alcohol. Then Monday night I caulked and thought it came out okay:
 The grout tube said wait 36 hours before use, so I didn't use it until Thursday morning. Last night after showering I saw that for about a 24" run, the caulk had come loose:  I ran my finger along it, and to my disgust the caulk under the skin had either not hardened, or had come apart:  So...what do I do to fix this? Aside fron the bad stretch, the rest of the caulk is good. |
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Posted: 9/6/2008 10:16:20 AM EDT
[#1]
is that where the tub and wall come together? If so remember this NEVER GROUT A CHANGE OF PLANE. It will not work. Caulk it with a good caulk and you are done. BTW real grout does not come pre-mixed it comes in a bag(unless it's epoxy grout and then it comes in two tubs). If you really did use caulk then let it sit longer, on the other hand I have run into bad tubes of caulk. If that's the case write down the lot number and go to a different store and buy a different lot number. Let us know what you figure out. SS
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Posted: 9/6/2008 12:08:13 PM EDT
[#2]
Sorry, I meant to say "caulk".
75% of the job came out good. Do I have to strip it all out and start over, or can I just excise the bad stuff? If I do so will the new caulk adhere to the old? |
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Posted: 9/6/2008 2:49:38 PM EDT
[#3]
I would take it all out. Like I said about bad caulk I have seen it do that before. It might work to dig out the bad but it might not adhere. Give it a try and if it fails again pull it all out and clean it with some alcohol first. SS
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Posted: 9/6/2008 2:52:03 PM EDT
[#4]
Check with the manufacturer, there was a recent recall on some caulk that they forgot to add hardener to. I know Home Depot pulled it from their shelves, but it's not to say you didn't get a tube someone returned after realizing they bought too much. If you have the empty tube still it should have a lot number on it.
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Posted: 9/6/2008 6:22:25 PM EDT
[#5]
use polyseam seal and use a smaller amount.
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Posted: 9/6/2008 7:20:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Any idea of the brand? I used DAP Kwik Seal. |
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Posted: 9/10/2008 5:01:06 AM EDT
[#7]
I've run into the same problem recently using the same product. I'm gonna try 100% silicone next.
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Posted: 9/10/2008 5:19:41 AM EDT
[#8]
Silicone can't be worked with one's finger in order to get a nice smooth job. Also, the government mandated (a couple of years ago) the removal of a key ingredient, which rendered it MUCH less effective. You simply can't get good caulk anymore. 
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Posted: 9/10/2008 6:30:14 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Silicone can't be worked with one's finger in order to get a nice smooth job. quote] Next time you are trying to smooth out silicone, spit some where and stick your finger in it, then smooth the silicone out. Wont work with water...has to be spit. |
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Posted: 9/10/2008 6:48:01 PM EDT
[#10]
I'll try that--thanks!  *I just won't be able to handle my contact lenses for a couple days afterward. 
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Posted: 9/11/2008 2:41:14 AM EDT
[#11]
use the Kitchen and bath. If the caulk is costing you less than a $3.50 a tube you are not a quality product. |
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Posted: 9/11/2008 3:22:45 AM EDT
[#12]
QFT GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath is about the best around in silicone. |
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Posted: 9/12/2008 4:56:58 AM EDT
[#13]
When I smooth out at bead of latex caulk with my finger, I dip my finger in water repeatedly. It gives you a super smooth bead. You have to practice this because too much water will just ruin the bead.
With silicone caulk, dip your finger in paint thinner. Again practice, too much will ruin the bead. |
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Posted: 9/12/2008 8:34:32 PM EDT
[#14]
run the back of your finger when you do chaulk so it cleans it as you go then use a sponge to clean
i like Dap for tubs easy clean up |
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Posted: 9/12/2008 8:39:28 PM EDT
[#15]
What was the ingredient TBK? I used to install windows, and |
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Posted: 9/12/2008 8:46:00 PM EDT
[#16]
I don't know. The manager of the paint department at a local Menard's is a client of mine and she told me that (2-3 years ago). She didn't mention the specific name of the ingredient--just that one had to be taken out and now there is NO "good" caulk. I guess it's also possible technology has caught up and replaced it with something equally effective--though not in my recent experience. 
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Posted: 9/13/2008 12:53:34 PM EDT
[#17]
Use rubbing or denatured alcohol to wipe down after cleaning the area.
I have had problems over the years with various cleaners messing up acrylic caulk and paint. |
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Posted: 9/17/2008 6:34:01 PM EDT
[#18]
Well, I removed the bad caulk, cleaned thorougly, let it dry a couple days, then re-caulked:
 FAIL Okay...what should I try next? |
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Posted: 9/17/2008 6:52:19 PM EDT
[#19]
That looks to me like plain old bad caulk. I'd try stuff labeled for the purpose.
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Posted: 9/17/2008 6:56:05 PM EDT
[#20]
Looking at the pic. you applied the caulk and then did what? Something is not right there. It looks as if you tried to run a bead, but did not run a wet finger over it after. On the other hand it looks as if you may have not put down a thick enough bead. Then running your finger over it, you wiped all the caulk off. Is this caulk out of a caulk tube using a gun or out of a tube using your hand to squeeze it out? Don't be stingy with it, throw down a thick bead and draw your finger over it.
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Posted: 9/17/2008 6:59:47 PM EDT
[#21]
.
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Posted: 9/17/2008 7:02:57 PM EDT
[#22]
I ran a wet finger over it, but this took a lot of the caulk off when I tried to smooth it. The areas that did work do look like there was a thicker amount of caulk. |
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Posted: 9/17/2008 7:31:07 PM EDT
[#23]
No No, you misunderstood.. She said she hadnt had any good caulk in awhile, she was throwing out the signs that she wants to try yours....  
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Posted: 9/18/2008 4:28:11 AM EDT
[#24]
Sorry to say this but.....you suck at caulking.
 It's ok though, it's a technique that gets better with practice. Just keep trying and it will get better. Try a wet sponge instead of your finger. Be careful how much pressure you apply. On the other hand I think they now make special scrapers for smoothing out a caulk bead. See if Home Depot or Lowes sells them. |
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Posted: 9/18/2008 6:29:29 PM EDT
[#25]
I got one of those scrapers. It didn't work. The caulk is too sticky. It stuck to the scraper.
Well, I just removed the bad caulk bead. It looks like this area goes deeper back that the rest of the run, and the caulk did not complety fill the whole area. Above the bathtub is a wrap-around fake tile plastic wall, that goes up about 4' to form a shower area; the plastic was not glued to the wall uniformly, and the gap between it and the tub is uneven. It is this gap that I'm trying to fill with caulk. So, how do I "squish" the caulk or force it in so it goes all the way back to the wall? The damn stuff wants to stick to my finger instead of the wall. |
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Posted: 9/18/2008 6:32:48 PM EDT
[#26]
The best way to smooth caulk (especially silicone RTV) is an ice cube.
Trust me.
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Posted: 9/18/2008 7:04:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Ive seen pros lay down a silicon bead then with spray bottle spray denatured alcohol on bead then smooth with finger. Sure smells good. 
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Posted: 9/19/2008 4:15:39 AM EDT
[#28]
SIlicone CAN be smoothed with paint thinner on your finger.
kitteh, just keep trying man. Can you post a picture of the bare joint before caulking? |
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Posted: 9/19/2008 7:35:53 AM EDT
[#29]
I keep a hunk of ivory bar soap in a 1/4 inch of water when I use silicone caulk. Get some soap on the finger, and smooth out the bead. Works great for me. Also I"ll only use the GE Silicone II, the other stuff just doesn't seem to come out right.
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Posted: 9/19/2008 5:33:37 PM EDT
[#30]
Left side:
 Right side:  As you can see, the left side is deeper than the right; also the gap between the tiling and the tub is higher in ths area. I think that somehow I have to pack the caulk in there so it cures all the way through. |
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Posted: 9/19/2008 9:44:40 PM EDT
[#31]
When I have exposed caulking to do and apprentices are on board I make them use the blue 3m tape as an outline. I have them run tape down both sides of the seam they want to caulk. You can make it as wide as you like and you can get it nice and straight with the idea that once they "finger" it, for lack of better words
 it should just be touching their tape guide. Smoothing it usually takes a wet rag if you have alot to do up for best results. Once its uniform and looking decent pull the tape away from the caulking. Now with that said that caulking your using looks like it could be old??? All caulking that I have ever seen has a shelf life in perfect conditions. I have seen caulking in bad conditions, like riding around in a truck tool box in the heat, go bad really fast. If its bad its is junk without a doubt and should be thrown away or given to your nemesis to use on his shower. BTW I have seen caulking at the supply house that was over a year past its shelf life date, so be sure and look... |
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