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Posted: 10/13/2017 7:45:01 AM EDT
[#1]
Will insulating block have any real advantage? I've always believed it's self insulating and you're only three high to begin with.
Is it dirt floor? If so that's the biggest heat loss factor. ETA Just trying to learn not talk you out of it. |
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Posted: 10/13/2017 8:15:44 AM EDT
[#2]
It is also foam safe - whereas most adhesives will dissolve foam. |
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Posted: 10/13/2017 8:51:35 AM EDT
[#3]
Have it spray foamed instead. Excellent stuff, moisture proof, incredible insulating properties. Much better then foam sheets with a foil backer.
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Posted: 10/13/2017 10:15:59 AM EDT
[#4]
The best glue for rigid foam is cans of spray foam. Don't use foam safe glue in a tube. It sucks. Use cans of spray foam.
Also, polyiso isn't the best for your purpose. You're best bet would be to use XPS or even EPS. I wouldn't use polyiso. Polyiso doesn't like moisture and you live in a cold climate. Polyiso R values drop the colder it gets while EPS and XPS remain constant. |
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Posted: 10/13/2017 11:12:33 AM EDT
[#5]
The crawl space has a concrete floor throughout.
One end of the house is done with poly iso The remaining sides need to be covered. The temp in the crawl space in winter is about 40 deg. This is due, in large, to hot water pipes in the space. That still makes for a chilly tiled bathroom floor. These walls face north and east which are the coldest sides. Any snow that's blown up against these walls will melt so there's a good degree of loss there. That's what we're trying to slow down. I agree on the spray in but the cost is prohibitive at this time. Thanx again.. |
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Posted: 10/13/2017 2:07:11 PM EDT
[#6]
You can buy DIY spray kits fairly inexpensively. Check online.
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Posted: 10/13/2017 3:46:45 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The crawl space has a concrete floor throughout. One end of the house is done with poly iso The remaining sides need to be covered. The temp in the crawl space in winter is about 40 deg. This is due, in large, to hot water pipes in the space. That still makes for a chilly tiled bathroom floor. These walls face north and east which are the coldest sides. Any snow that's blown up against these walls will melt so there's a good degree of loss there. That's what we're trying to slow down. I agree on the spray in but the cost is prohibitive at this time. Thanx again.. Again, no matter what type of foam you use, adhere it with spray foam cans. I've used both and the foam safe adhesive sucks. I'll never use it again. A few globs of spray foam on the back of each sheet and press it up against the concrete. Within a hr or so it'll be stuck there for good. |
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Posted: 10/13/2017 6:24:36 PM EDT
[#8]
I used spray foam isulation (Great Stuff Big Gap Filler) as adhesive for rigid foam to a concrete wall.
Cut all your pieces first, one you start using the can you're going to want to keep moving. You won't have the luxury to stop and cut every piece without wasting cans of foam. |
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Posted: 10/28/2017 9:11:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/img/products/big/pl_ca_prem.png It is also foam safe - whereas most adhesives will dissolve foam. You can also get big washers from a roofing supply company and use them with hammer in lead anchors after drilling the wall. You could also get a pro foam gun and use the foam for both the adhesive & gap filler. Not only are the pro cans that use a separate can much cheaper per cubic foot of yield, you can reuse a can for months if stored properly |
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Posted: 10/28/2017 9:20:14 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used spray foam isulation (Great Stuff Big Gap Filler) as adhesive for rigid foam to a concrete wall. Cut all your pieces first, one you start using the can you're going to want to keep moving. You won't have the luxury to stop and cut every piece without wasting cans of foam. 
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Posted: 10/28/2017 9:36:46 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/img/products/big/pl_ca_prem.png It is also foam safe - whereas most adhesives will dissolve foam. Good stuff. |
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Posted: 10/28/2017 9:51:35 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/img/products/big/pl_ca_prem.png It is also foam safe - whereas most adhesives will dissolve foam. If I need to stick foam sheets to concrete at any point in the future, I'll use canned foam. |
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Posted: 10/29/2017 8:27:29 AM EDT
[#13]
All done! I'm lame as hell from "swimming" all over the space, belly down, on a creeper.
Used the squirt foam and it worked like a charm. We'd put 5-6 dollops on the foam, press it against the wall leaving ~ 1/2" space on the sides then fill the gap with foam. Whole job took about 3 hours and we moved right along once we had a routine set. Thanks for all the help and hints.. |
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