Need to cover the exterior above grade portion of my ICF foundation. Waterproofing membrane and fanfold insulation has already been applied.

Need something cheap, but looks decent. Code says it has to be covered, but the inspector doesn't care what it is covered with.

On the front side of the house, only need about 18". Back side of the house around 40". Sides obviously slope with grade.

Have considered:

• Coiled flashing: kind of expensive for what you get IMHO, may look like shit because it will divet with backfill or anything that touches it. So far looks like perhaps the cheapest option.
  
• Actual steel roofing: lay it vertically, secure only at top and some rivets from panel to panel to maintain waterproofing. Have not checked on prices yet, but that stuff isn't cheap. Would be durable and a permanent solution.
  
• Can you stucco over waterproofing membrane? Have never done stucco, don't know cost.

What else is there? 

Cement stucco over wire or EIFS???  

If you use EIFS I will suggest using the impact mesh because it's near the ground.

In a ideal situation the foundation coating and the fan insulation would be installed about an inch behind the siding so you don't have a funky flashing detail at the transition.

Following.

I've got ICF as well, inspector let it go with tyvek over the waterproofing membrane but it looks terrible.

Made the same determination about coil stock, far too expensive for something that'll get dented up easily from yard maintenance. A stucco type finish seems like it would look best, if your ICF is like mine you've got plastic studs every 8" to tie into with mesh, but you have to break the waterproofing membrane to get to it so it seems counter productive?

Exactly where I'm at. Rather not drill into the waterproofing, but it is above ground so water should never make it past the stucco?

I still dunno

Think of it this way. EIFS is waterproof and damp proof at the finished surface but if it is damaged by lawn equipment etc water can enter.  Cement stucco will shed water but it isn't damp proof.  Meaning it can absorb moisture but it can also release it which is good.  That's assuming the surface isn't sealed by paint etc..

Regardless of how you guys proceed,  keep in mind that Tyvec is rated for about 4 months of UV exposure and most waterproofing materials are similar.  


Rat patrol makes a good point.  Above finish grade is dampproofing, not waterproofing.  I wouldn't stress about the screw penetrations.

Have been in the business for a very long time.

Good points.

Could you elaborate on how/what a DIYer needs to run with EIFS? OK for direct contact with soil? I assume some type of flashing will be required between where the siding ends and EIFS starts?

Sorry to threadjack Rat Patrol, but figure this information benefits both of us if billhw1 is willing

Go with the roofing installed vertically, low enough to have landscaping hold it in place. We have many wonderful adhesives now days, should be able to find something to adhere to what you have.

I hung dur rock and glued mica stone panels on. Looks good.

Adhesive was sikaflex (15?)


Maybe you can do tile or brick. I remember the stone wasn't cheap

We always subcontracted the EIFS and I can't work a trowel

I'm not a huge fan of EIFS over the wood portion of a structure but over ICF with water/damproofing behind it, it's fine.

IMO, cement stucco and EIFS needs to terminate above grade and have a drainage trim at its base located about 4 to 6" above grade.  Copper or coil stock would finish the detail to below grade.  One of the advantages of EIFS is that it is easy to clean and doesn't stain if rain water splashes soil etc on it.

You both have an ICF foundation so the ICF extends beyond the framed wall line because the sill plate lands on the concrete, not the foam.  Google water table flashing "images" .  It's a simple detail but it needs to be behind the siding and the house wrap to work properly.

I've been following Rat_Patrol's thread in the homestead forum and it's a nice thread.  His house arrived on a truck so he would have to remove the bottom course of siding to flash it properly.

As the other folks mentioned, glue on brick veneer or metal are other options, it just depends on what you want to look at aesthetically.

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