Instead of adding a Reliance Controls 6-breaker sub panel with inlet that is wired to each individual pre-determined breaker...

I have an unused dual pole 30A breaker that used to power an outdoor electric cooktop which has been removed. Can I wire it to a Reliance Controls 30A inlet (link) and use that to power my main breaker panel during power outages? IIRC it's using a 10/3 wire red/black/white/ground.

The generator being used would be less than 5,000 watts.

I'm aware that I would have to cut my main breaker from my power meter first, turn on the 30A dual pole for the inlet (which would normally be tripped/pff) and also turn off ALL the breakers in my panel and only turn on the ones I want to use - correct?

Is this no bueno?

Second question: whats the best way to hook an inverter generator to a female NEMA L14 receptacle? I have the companion generator and not the 'hook up' model so I only have two 5-15P plugs.

You describe it in exactly the way that has worked for me for years. My brother's gen. is using that same hookup in central Fla. right now.  

First, your avatar is hilarious.

Yes that will work. Ideally you could get or fab up an interlock device that would prevent both breakers from being on at the same time. If you buy a premade interlock you will probably have to move the breakers around to have the generator one in a specific spot at the top of the panel.

There are several generator hookup threads going on right now, if you can overlook the overdramatics in one of them there is other good info.
such as:  https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/690289_SAFELY-power-both-legs-with-a-120V-generator-.html

I have taken to using a purpose-built cord which has two 15 amp plugs paralleled together when using a generator that only has that for an output, as I find I get more power with less voltage drop than trying to use a single plug. If you have a generator with a high amperage type plug I haven't found that to be a problem.

I have done it that many times, even with houses with two panels, that requires another available 220 breaker and heavy wire jumpers to accomplish. Tape down the mains and mark to prevent the unaware from flipping them while the generator is still hooked up. Those without enough generator will have to pick and choose what circuits to energize in the panel. Those with more than enough to run the whole house should use a heavier amperage breaker to connect to the panel, something that at least matches the rating of the generator's breaker.

Though, I usually make up and use an adapter that plugs into the dryer outlet and at the same time provides another outlet to plug the dryer into. Care must be used on this as well because if the adapter is unplugged from the dryer outlet the plug prongs will be hot if the generator wasn't disconnected first it will present a shock hazard. Label any such adapters to explain that the generator should always be OFF before installing or removing the adapter.

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OP, That's exactly how mine is set up BUT I have an interlock set up on mine so that the main and the generator break can not be on at the same time.

this is the interlock that I have.

interlock kit

J-

Just remember to ALWAYS turn off main breaker or disconnect first!!!!!!! Very important.

Thanks guys but I can't have an interlock as my interior 'main panel' does not have the main disconnect located in it - the main disconnect is outside of the house in another panel next to the meter which has a 12-slot area that's full of 6 dual-phase breakers for the various sub-panels around the house.

I see 240v vs 120v mentioned here with the generator feeding the whole panel through a breaker like this - can I not run my A/C units?

You mentioned having a 5kw genny.

What are the requirements of your AC's?

If you have a generator with enough power at 240V to run your A/C, and the breaker (and panel it's on) has enough amperage capacity.

IIRC something like a 10,000 Watt generator is about the minimum for a central A/C. You're really getting into the realm of a permanent whole-house generator or a tractor with PTO powered generator.

You will trigger all the electrical safety nazis enthusiasts with the idea that you will manually disconnect the grid power before connecting your generator.

I do not have a 5kw but I imagine that 5-7500w is the most I'll ever own.

My current generator is a Honda EU2000i that I can buy a second to run in tandem for 4000w max.

The A/C question was just random wishful thinking....not necessary for the few days a year we lose power.

My current hope with a single 2000w Honda inverter generator is to just be able to easily add it to the home's breaker system via the inter connect and run more than I can with just two extension cords. All my stuff is LED/low power so even a 2000w gen should be able to handle my garage freezer, house lights, and TV in case of emergency for multiple day outages.

Thanks guys!

My personal preference is a panel interlock kit.  It is idiot proof (mistake proof) and it allows access to all of the circuits in that particular panel.  A manual transfer switch is the second preference, IMO, because it limits the number of circuits that a person can power ( selected in advance ) during the outage.  That's in the context of the typical man portable generator.

I've taken short cuts while hooking up a generator in the past during emergency situations.  We all know it can be done but it isn't a safe long term solution.

There have been many discussions on ARF over the years about generator connection short cuts.  In the situation where someone installs an inlet box and feeds a breaker in the main panel and disconnects the main breaker it works in a pinch to seperate the grid and generator.  What I've never read is someone saying when the outage is over and you restore grid power to disconnect the breaker to the inlet box.  So now they're feeding grid power to the inlet box which any child can access and lick the hot male posts.  Yeah it's a bit of a stretch but true.  This in the day and age when we use tamper proof outlets in the kids bedroom.

not sure if you can do what your talking about LEGALLY.  if im not mistaken, you need either a transfer switch or a interlock for your MAIN breaker.  what your talking about would work by using a 30a backfeed breaker, but its not code due to safety reasons.

i believe your only legal choice is to get a transfer switch panel to feed each of your your subpanels that is tied into the main panel. since you already have a main panel with 6 circuits off it going to each sub panel, you need a 6 circuit transfer switch panel.... get it?  you just need to know what you can and cant run since all your subpanels will be energized.


your central air MIGHT run, dont let people tell you it wont. it COULD if you know what size genny you will get, and how much power your system draws, and what is currently running (well pump, electric hot water heater, lights, TV, etc)

His central air (if 240V)  will not run because all he currently has is a Honda eu2000 which is only 120V. Now if he does get a bigger generator that has 240V he may be able to power central air, especially if he installs a hard start capacitor

Even if I isntall a 6 bay transfer switch like the Reliance Controls 406C - my main panel in my garage is fully loaded and doesnt have a 'main' disconnect in it - that's in a completely seperate panel so I can't do an interlock unless I do some major moving around of breakers.

Yes, yes.  Tape it well because if someone decides to ignore that tape, which people like to do, it may kill a line worker.

I can see doing this and ignoring the interlock requirements in one's own house, with complete control of that main breaker, but are you suggesting doing this for customers and leaving it like that?

My case isnt for a 'customer'.

It's my own home on a lot, and I'm the only one who would ever touch it. Plus my outside panel with the main breaker has the ability to be padlocked if need be.

The only downside to either option IMO is that I won't know when the power comes back on.

Burn your house down from backfeeding, try to claim it on your ins.
Kill a guy on a pole.

Do it right or not at all unless it's an emergency situation. Not a loose power for 2 hours I need my tv situation.

It's easier for you to run cords. Or buy a whole house setup.

So how is feeding a generator into your entire panel from a breaker different from feeding 6 individual breakers connected to your panel through a transfer switch?

Either way I would need to manually shut off my main breaker...

10ga wire is rated for 2880 watts while a single 2000 watt generator barely even does a full 2000 at peak....

Where is the hazard?

I told you that people would be triggered

The hazard they claim is that you can't be trusted to flip a disconnect switch/breaker manually, that you have to be mechanically prevented from having the generator switched on at the same time as the main. Some even claim that an interlock is unacceptable since the main breaker may have failed.

Its all too easy to forget to turn off the main breaker, especially when the power is out.

I would not run without the proper setup (just installed the interlock for the double pole generator input myself), but if you do, put big damn warnings on the panel you are using for input AND the cord AND The generator. 

Can you not make room on the main panel for the proper interlock, or install a sub-panel with its own main breaker with interlock?

Call me a safety nazi all you want. Not worth somebody getting killed over.

I understand the safety aspect for utility workers and about interlocks and the main breaker.

I am referencing the poster above that said

Where is the fire hazard of using 10/3 cable and a 30A dual pole breaker for a less than 2000w generator setup?

None. I am running a 9kw (surge) generator on 10/3 cable and a dual 30A interlock. Shit, I built a special adapter to use my 120VAC generator to power both legs with juice through the interlock. Totally safe.

I agree with you.  People turn shit on all the time, killing, maiming and cutting pieces off other guys, whether they're labeled or not.

That's why lockout tagout became so critical at work and that's why interlocks are considered a basic life safety item in these situations.  I'm not sure if everyone understands that utility workers are not subject to household 120/240, they're going to be exposed to thousands of volts if someone backfeeds the distribution transformer and a ground is missing or has been disconnected.

The problem is if something happens and your set up was not to code your INS. wont pay.

Yup. That's what I was saying. So why try to save a few dollars to have it bite you in the ass later.
People are fucking stupid.

Never seen that clause in any homeowner's insurance policy.

You are insured against your own mistakes.

The insurance company is looking for a third party (like an electrician) that they can go after.

That's been my experience.  We built a church for a client.  Their insurance company came after us because the phone system was fried by a electrical storm.  It felt so good sending them a copy of the project specifications that mentioned that the phone system was by the owner.

Ok so I have the hook ups and panels installed correctly, but I have a hook up question for the L14-30R plug receptacle.

My generator does not have the female L14 plug on it - only two 5-15P standard plugs.

My transfer panel came with a generic L14-30R ending to make a cable out of. Whats the best way to hook up the generator?

I'm assuming the generator isn't outputting all 1600w on either one or both plugs? Does it matter if I use both plugs on the generator?

Should I splice TWO 5-15P cords togethers to use both 5-15P receptacles on the genrator to the one L14 plug and use both hot legs?

Should I just do ONE 5-15 cord and only use one leg of the L14 plug?

Should I bridge the two hot legs of the L14 plug with one 5-15 cord?

I have had issues with loss/voltage drop in generator applications so have looked to maximize power transfer where possible.

Toward that end, I put together a cordset using two 5-15 plugs and cords, leading to a single high amp 240 connector with the two phases bonded together inside the 240 plug. Just have to be sure that all plugs are connected before anything is energized.  Its just been my experience that trying to actually draw 10+ amps through a single 5-15 plug is not a good proposition.

From my research it seems the Honda EU2000i put out a total of 1600w peak no matter what outlet you use. They are 13A @ 120V for 1600w max, which is less than each 20A (1800w max per spec) outlet - so it wouldnt matter if I use one or two 15/20A extension cords from the generator as it will output 1600w on either.

So it looks like one cord with one hot leg will work fine.

Question is, should I jump the other hot leg? Does it matter if only 120v is using one 10ga line in my dual pole breaker?

I dont think jumping it is a good idea as the single ground and neutral would be carrying the load for both hot lines at that point and the cable from the wall to the generator is only 12/14GA.

you always have 120v per leg in your panel. its when you take the L1 and L2 it then adds each 120v leg together which is 240. but it wont in your case because you dont have a 240v genny.

so from L1 OR L2 to G/N its always 120v, and L1 and L2 will be 240v (with the proper genny/street power). in YOUR case you will read 0v across L1 and L2 if you jump them. dont be confused by this. anyone with knowledge of a voltage meter will know reading across the same leg will read 0. its like putting your 2 meter leads on the same lug on a breaker in your panel. it wont read shit.

you need a 240v output genny to do what you want the right way.  you CAN jump L1 to L2 SOMEWHERE to then feed each buss bar in your panel 120v which will then feed any 120v circuit. i advise against this.  
im not trying to be a nazi. im trying to tell you to not burn your house down or hurt yourself. your clearly asking simple questions, which leads me to believe your knowledge in electricity is fairly poor and you should consult an electrician. but even they wont do it because they will then be liable.

buy the right generator. then you will have proper power, no jumping things out, and then your transfer switch/interlock or whatever you have will work properly, which will then have a higher wattage capability for your needs.  

if i were you, id run extension cords to your fridge and maybe a 3 way to charge your phone and have a light.


you would be tripping the OL on your genny very fast. 1600w is nothing.

I don't want or need 220/240v

My goal is only to run my fridge and a few LED recessed lights

Jumping was not necessary and only an idea.

As of now I have the generstors 5-15 plug going to the L14-30R receptacle with one one load active, and one ONE of my two 10ga wires being used in that 10/3 Romex going to my transfer switch and main panel.

For 120v that will work just fine and is within spec

So jump it out to feed both legs in your panel 120.... why keep this thread alive? Just do it. It's not going to hurt anything. Just anything that is 240v won't work and you'll be tripping the OL quickly because your genny is too small to begin with.