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Posted: 9/26/2017 12:44:43 AM EDT
[#1]
That's good.
The grid bias meg-ohm resistors may be the most critical... |
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Posted: 9/27/2017 11:09:13 PM EDT
[#2]
Continue to look over things and found some parts in stock to replace a few things in the meantime.
Some wiring to keep a close eye on before I replace. Black is resting on metal tab. Doesn't appear to be shorting but will move that away later. 
At this point this little gem is possibly a mistake in assembly and is not a missing red wire. I will be double checking that of course. 
I have not seen one of these before. It's a choke. 
What the heck is this box? 
Oh more parts and another choke 
I see the second to bottom tuning coil is missing the little flange head piece. No biggie. 
Here are a couple of new yellow capacitors in place. I need to get an order in for the rest soon. 
Oh and the field coil appears to test OK 
More to come |
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Posted: 9/30/2017 10:01:35 PM EDT
[#3]
I can only test 6 of the eleven tubes with the tester I have.
5 test pretty good and 1 is a tad on the low side. I can't test the thyratron or any of the #'s only tubes (42, 37...) Hope to order up parts tomorrow. |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 1:28:23 AM EDT
[#4]
Pulled the speaker out tonight.
Nothing to repair here 
Well I do need to get rid of some dust underneath
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Posted: 10/8/2017 1:34:10 AM EDT
[#5]
Removed the antenna today.
The dusty mess 
The antenna has one loose stopper. Those two dowels keep the antenna from going all the way around. 
After some cleanup 
PARTS!!! 
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Posted: 10/8/2017 1:37:12 AM EDT
[#6]
Oh and BTW the lower RC antenna comes out by taking out these two screws and sliding the unit out.
I then went on to clean a ton of this dust out. It was some thick ass shit
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Posted: 10/12/2017 12:25:13 AM EDT
[#7]
Doesn't look to different but have been continuing to replace capacitors (yellow items)
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Posted: 10/13/2017 11:23:52 PM EDT
[#8]
Pile of old parts growing.
Continued working on the upper section including this cluster. 
When I got to the large cap in the middle I found out I didn't order one 
I don't usually combine parts to make one of correct value but I had what I needed to do so so I did in this case. 
Here is that cluster all redone. 
Upper section progress. 
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Posted: 10/14/2017 5:34:24 AM EDT
[#9]
When you put the speaker back in, if there's enough wire, put it in upside down from the original mounting.
The reasoning... Over time gravity will cause the foam to sag and the voice coil can contact the magnets causing a ton of distortion and eventually will short out the coil. This is a must do on larger speakers ie: 15s and bigger. I tell all the guys that get repairs to flip their cabinets for storage occasionally. Where this radio is old it sure couldn't hurt. Nice looking job.. good luck with it. |
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Posted: 10/21/2017 10:14:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Worked the lower left section yesterday.
Still have some caps left and then we can think about bringing up power 
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Posted: 10/26/2017 11:02:25 AM EDT
[#11]
Went to replace that metal canned capacitor you see in pic above down right just to find out I don't have the right one.
The schematic says it's an electorlytic cap but it has 2 black wires coming out. Asking in a diff forum about it it turns out that it is a non-polarized motor start capacitor. So it looks like I have two options 1) buy one, they are a little spendy for a single unit 2) make one out of two electrolyic caps Still working on this. |
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Posted: 10/26/2017 4:05:22 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Went to replace that metal canned capacitor you see in pic above down right just to find out I don't have the right one. The schematic says it's an electorlytic cap but it has 2 black wires coming out. Asking in a diff forum about it it turns out that it is a non-polarized motor start capacitor. So it looks like I have two options 1) buy one, they are a little spendy for a single unit 2) make one out of two electrolyic caps Still working on this. |
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Posted: 10/26/2017 5:24:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Beautiful radio. Thanks for sharing the rebuild.
Txl Eta. Batteries plus around here has a tube tester. You might check yours. |
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Posted: 10/26/2017 11:52:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's the value? Should be easy to sub... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Went to replace that metal canned capacitor you see in pic above down right just to find out I don't have the right one. The schematic says it's an electorlytic cap but it has 2 black wires coming out. Asking in a diff forum about it it turns out that it is a non-polarized motor start capacitor. So it looks like I have two options 1) buy one, they are a little spendy for a single unit 2) make one out of two electrolyic caps Still working on this. Apparently not to easy to find. I also like to just use what I have if I can. |
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Posted: 10/27/2017 12:22:13 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
30uF @ 30v Apparently not to easy to find. I also like to just use what I have if I can. US $3.60 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-160V-33uF-160V-YUF-NP-16x36mm-Non-polar-Electrolytic-Capacitor/112380229987?hash=item1a2a623963:g:lt4AAOSwUlRZu3Eq Lots of other alternatives there... Don't like using polarized electrolytics back to back in ac power aps... |
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Posted: 10/27/2017 1:54:58 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
5pcs 160V 33uF 160V YUF NP 16x36mm Non polar Electrolytic Capacitor US $3.60 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-160V-33uF-160V-YUF-NP-16x36mm-Non-polar-Electrolytic-Capacitor/112380229987?hash=item1a2a623963:g:lt4AAOSwUlRZu3Eq Lots of other alternatives there... Don't like using polarized electrolytics back to back in ac power aps... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
30uF @ 30v Apparently not to easy to find. I also like to just use what I have if I can. US $3.60 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-160V-33uF-160V-YUF-NP-16x36mm-Non-polar-Electrolytic-Capacitor/112380229987?hash=item1a2a623963:g:lt4AAOSwUlRZu3Eq Lots of other alternatives there... Don't like using polarized electrolytics back to back in ac power aps... Guess I could order that and if I'm ready for power up before they arrive I'll just make one for temporary use. Looks like delivery could take a while. |
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Posted: 10/27/2017 2:46:49 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hmm Guess I could order that and if I'm ready for power up before they arrive I'll just make one for temporary use. Looks like delivery could take a while. You can get a motor starting cap w/ a high V rating to use temporarily from US Sellers for abt $8 or so. I bought one a few years ago for a small band saw and the cap is pretty small. On the left side of the eBay page there is a check off for just N-America Sellers, I use that when I'm in a hurry. |
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Posted: 10/28/2017 12:32:52 AM EDT
[#18]
So a lot of the wiring in here is stranded so I figured I would get some stranded wire to use as well.
Mainly where there may be movement so that the stranded can flex a bit. Received the wire and there is no black. Two shades of blue but no black. Contacted seller and doesn't know why it is not black and asked if I wanted to ship back. I said eff it and bought some from ebay. The correct response should have been "go ahead and keep the dark blue and I'll send a black to you". 
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Posted: 10/28/2017 2:03:36 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So a lot of the wiring in here is stranded so I figured I would get some stranded wire to use as well. Mainly where there may be movement so that the stranded can flex a bit. Received the wire and there is no black. Two shades of blue but no black. Contacted seller and doesn't know why it is not black and asked if I wanted to ship back. I said eff it and bought some from ebay. The correct response should have been "go ahead and keep the dark blue and I'll send a black to you". Ask him to send a Return Tag so you can send it back and then he can resend the correct wire. If he makes trouble, leave Negative Feedback. |
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Posted: 10/28/2017 3:27:29 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
eBay Seller is responsible for return shipping when the item is 'not as described'. Ask him to send a Return Tag so you can send it back and then he can resend the correct wire. If he makes trouble, leave Negative Feedback. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So a lot of the wiring in here is stranded so I figured I would get some stranded wire to use as well. Mainly where there may be movement so that the stranded can flex a bit. Received the wire and there is no black. Two shades of blue but no black. Contacted seller and doesn't know why it is not black and asked if I wanted to ship back. I said eff it and bought some from ebay. The correct response should have been "go ahead and keep the dark blue and I'll send a black to you". Ask him to send a Return Tag so you can send it back and then he can resend the correct wire. If he makes trouble, leave Negative Feedback. I did tell him to check his shit though. I can't be the only one with this issue. These 25' rolls come from a much bigger spool I'm sure. |
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Posted: 10/29/2017 12:09:06 AM EDT
[#21]
Time to change out the capacitors and resistor in the stepper unit.
There are 2 caps and a resistor back down in there. Before 
After Not much to see but they are down in there. 
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Posted: 10/29/2017 12:12:14 AM EDT
[#22]
Next up we'll tackle this bakelite block.
Damn thing is going to make the power transformer wires crumble apart but we'll get over it
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Posted: 11/2/2017 11:26:35 PM EDT
[#23]
Block out
Now to dig out the cap 
Hey there lil buddy 
Cleaned it all out and put in new cap 
Mounted back into chassis and need to look into putting in the fuse. I usually put in a fuse holder under the chassis to where you have to pull chassis out to change. Not a real big deal but this one is MUCH heavier and there is more involved. I plan on putting an external holder here on the side. You shouldn't be able to see it very easily in this position. 
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Posted: 11/5/2017 7:16:54 PM EDT
[#24]
Well today was "power up" day.
Brought it up nice and slowly with the variac. IT'S ALIVE!!! Linky Now that we know we have potential we can continue on replacing wiring and whatever else we find. |
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Posted: 11/5/2017 9:53:47 PM EDT
[#25]
More of the AWESOMENESS that we have come to expect, no demand, of Edisla.
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Posted: 11/5/2017 10:18:14 PM EDT
[#26]
I wanted to see if there was life on the remote control receiver/stepper unit so I fired up the RF generator and started to scan around 350-400Hz.
Looks like 365kHz is the sweet spot. I found a list of the different freqs they used for different labeled controls but couldn't find it. Will look later. Mine is labeled Control 6. Linky Thyatron glows blue when triggered 
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Posted: 11/6/2017 9:35:53 PM EDT
[#27]
One thing that was not working was the volume motor.
All it would do is buzz. I don't have the new cap in yet so I just left the original one in there. I just put 2 electrolytics back to back just to try it and confirmed that the original cap is bad and that the motor does work 
The unit is powered down and I will start redoing the wiring and get the new cap in when it arrives. |
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Posted: 11/7/2017 12:36:57 AM EDT
[#28]
Have you heard any 'voices'?
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Posted: 11/7/2017 12:39:58 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you heard any 'voices'? 
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Posted: 11/11/2017 1:34:44 AM EDT
[#30]
I was removing a tube tonight and this happened
Looks like the tube was not compromised. Did not go cloudy. Appears the connection just broke loose from the solder on the plate cap since it still pokes through the hole.  
JB Welding the cap back on and will solder wire after it dries.
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Posted: 11/14/2017 3:26:54 PM EDT
[#31]
Small update.
That plate cap seemed to go back on pretty good with the JB Weld. I have since soldered it back down as well. Received the new non-polarized cap for the start/run motor yesterday and will work to get that in soon. Continue to replace old wiring. Getting the easy stuff out of the way first. 18 awg stranded wire ordered for the power transformer leads that need replacing. |
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Posted: 11/14/2017 3:59:52 PM EDT
[#32]
I love reading / seeing your updates! Restoring this is a thing of beauty.
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Posted: 11/14/2017 4:37:15 PM EDT
[#33]
The tube wire is a special alloy that is able to wet the glass to form a high vacuum seal and also has a coefficient of expansion compatible with the glass.
Be care of using too much adhesive unless if is known to have similar characteristics to the glass. I think you are OK with the repair. |
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Posted: 11/20/2017 2:22:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Currently working on rewiring around the bandswitch.
Some of these babies are staying put since they are to hard to get to and I don't want to risk damaging the switch waffers. 
Taking this week off so lets see how far we can get. Really want to get the power transformer rewired but wires are not here yet. |
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Posted: 11/20/2017 9:32:50 PM EDT
[#35]
This red wire is a crispy critter for sure but it is not worth replacing.
It would be to risky to get to that back right tab on the switch waffer. Even if the insulation fell off the wire wouldn't be touching anything so it should be ok but I am going to coat it with liquid electrical tape to help hold it together. Before 
After 
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Posted: 11/21/2017 11:24:32 PM EDT
[#36]
Decided to change gears for a bit and pealed back the coil pack.
Whoa! Dusty
That is a bit better 
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Posted: 11/21/2017 11:31:25 PM EDT
[#37]
Cleaned up the preset contacts a bit.
Before 
After I diidn't bother cleaning up the top of the wiper. No need to mess with it if you don't have to. Also neat because that right blemish is actually a fingerprint most likely from when it was originally built. 
So this circular thingy connects a capacitor at left and a coil at right to a preset station the user dials those two items to. The middle wiper is for the front panel dial light. |
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Posted: 11/21/2017 11:41:49 PM EDT
[#38]
Replaced the capacitor wires as well at left.
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Posted: 11/23/2017 3:24:20 PM EDT
[#39]
Replaced wiring on the tone control
Before 
After 
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Posted: 11/25/2017 3:12:52 AM EDT
[#40]
Power transformer wires came in today.
Going to need a good chunk of uninterrupted time to swap those out. |
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Posted: 11/29/2017 12:55:40 AM EDT
[#41]
Sorry this is slow going but need to have the right time to do some of this stuff.
Hang in there. 
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Posted: 12/1/2017 11:20:34 PM EDT
[#42]
Well my plan was to have a nice chunk of time to remove the transformer, rewire it, and then reinstall and wire back up. Finding that chunk has been hard so I started with the removal for now.
I pulled off a wire and then attached a small piece of wire on both the wire and tab it came from so I know where to put it when putting it all back together. Here is the start of that process with the white wires. 
Here is all of them done. 
Here is with the transformer out. A tad stressful. I can't just go to the store and buy another if I ruin this thing. 
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Posted: 12/3/2017 1:32:42 PM EDT
[#43]
Blue wires done
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Posted: 12/3/2017 10:31:35 PM EDT
[#44]
Nice work on the transformer. I bet that's a bit stressful. I did a 1941 zenith console a few years ago, although not as complex as your philco, I had to completely rewire it. I hate that rubber wire.
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Posted: 12/5/2017 12:42:49 AM EDT
[#45]
WOOOHOO!!!
Yellow is done
I think I'll finish this up before I post again. 
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Posted: 12/6/2017 10:09:18 PM EDT
[#46]
Ok transformer leads are done.
The longer Yellow is actually a Yellow/Green wire that the schematic calls for but this only had a green. Well it only looked green to me anyway. 
Next I'll have to see about getting back into its case and wired up. |
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Posted: 12/17/2017 11:03:45 PM EDT
[#47]
Transformer has been installed.
Tomorrow I hope to power up again to make sure there is no smoke
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Posted: 12/18/2017 6:20:43 PM EDT
[#48]
Hooked it back up this morning and fired it up.
No smoke!
Now back to the bench to finish the rest of the wiring. 
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Posted: 12/18/2017 7:48:16 PM EDT
[#49]
Amazing project.. Been watching since the start.
If you weren't so far away I'd let ya have a go at an old ham radio I have. National NCX-1000. Sure would like to get it back on the air... And for those curious... YES I hold an extra class license. Just not good with the finer points of restoration . Looking fwd to the next pix of your repairs.. 73..FN |
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Posted: 12/20/2017 12:25:30 AM EDT
[#50]
Situated one of the electrolytics today.
Before 
After  ETA: The old cap in the first pic is actually the non-polarized motor start/run cap. The one above in it's place is one of the electrolytics I relocated from higher up. The new NP motor cap is at left on that terminal. I have since situated that one a bit better and horizontal. |
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