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Posted: 9/3/2017 4:11:07 PM EDT
[#1]
How big of a roof do you want?
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Posted: 9/3/2017 4:26:34 PM EDT
[#2]
I think I would see if I could fine a framing carpenter and pay him for a few hours to get the project started, then once the part I didnt understand was done I could take it from there. Be careful that you dont cut too deep and hit wires or pipes.
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Posted: 9/3/2017 6:17:37 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How big of a roof do you want? |
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Posted: 9/3/2017 6:19:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think I would see if I could fine a framing carpenter and pay him for a few hours to get the project started, then once the part I didnt understand was done I could take it from there. Be careful that you dont cut too deep and hit wires or pipes. I'm in the Trades, so some familiarity with not letting the smoke or water out. 
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Posted: 9/3/2017 9:05:36 PM EDT
[#5]
Is the roof line running the same direction as the patio cover? You are into an Engineered solution, what does city/county say?
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Posted: 9/3/2017 9:32:04 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is the roof line running the same direction as the patio cover? You are into an Engineered solution, what does city/county say? This is a two story house. The patio cover will be out back on a flat wall, couple feet above the first-floor top plate. City has given me now real guidance at this point. Example drawings don't address this design type and I need to come up with something for the permit application. |
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Posted: 9/3/2017 10:43:47 PM EDT
[#7]
You need to learn two new words -
Architecture (for you) Structural Design (for the City) Okay, so it's three words but it is two different topics. |
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Posted: 9/3/2017 11:33:49 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You need to learn two new words - Architecture (for you) Structural Design (for the City) Okay, so it's three words but it is two different topics. |
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Posted: 9/4/2017 10:32:52 AM EDT
[#9]
Did you consider installing a big aluminum awning over the patio?
SEARS used to sell carport kits that may be what you are looking for. |
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Posted: 9/4/2017 12:05:31 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you consider installing a big aluminum awning over the patio? SEARS used to sell carport kits that may be what you are looking for. |
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Posted: 9/4/2017 12:51:22 PM EDT
[#11]
So something like this?
You mention 32' length, 16' depth, 9' 8" above ground (on the low side?), +36" (so 12' 8" on the high side?) means a 10.6* angle, 2.3 / 12 pitch, 195.3" rafter [before overhang]. Sounds like removal of some veneer on the house to install a ledger and flashing, and you'd want to auger / tube / pour the concrete for the support footers (if grass). I would do at least 24" OC 2x10 rafters topped with 3/4" ply, with at least 6x6 supports a minimum of every 8'. Your lower support beam would need to be pretty beefy as well to carry the span, maybe a 4x10 microbeam? I would also use metal hangers and plates to tie everything together (for wind loading). Just my thoughts, if I was going to build such. Also, you'd have to be careful with roofing selection, a 2.3 / 12 pitch is pretty low for most shingles. |
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Posted: 9/4/2017 12:58:35 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 9/4/2017 2:08:16 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So something like this? http://masterroofinginc.com/wp-content/uploads/bfi_thumb/Two-Story-Wall-Mount-Patio-Cover-web-mal3ff7vm6t1ni1rpfxqzn5yp97tgp5l3f897as4ts.jpg You mention 32' length, 16' depth, 9' 8" above ground (on the low side?), +36" (so 12' 8" on the high side?) means a 10.6* angle, 2.3 / 12 pitch, 195.3" rafter [before overhang]. Sounds like removal of some veneer on the house to install a ledger and flashing, and you'd want to auger / tube / pour the concrete for the support footers (if grass). I would do at least 24" OC 2x10 rafters topped with 3/4" ply, with at least 6x6 supports a minimum of every 8'. Your lower support beam would need to be pretty beefy as well to carry the span, maybe a 4x10 microbeam? I would also use metal hangers and plates to tie everything together (for wind loading). Just my thoughts, if I was going to build such. Also, you'd have to be careful with roofing selection, a 2.3 / 12 pitch is pretty low for most shingles. Thx! |
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Posted: 9/4/2017 10:36:38 PM EDT
[#14]
engineered trusses sound like the way to go. you'll probably want to set a couple of posts at the house and a couple/3 the the out side away from the house. look online for an appropriately sized header, one for each side, set said header on top of posts on each 16 ft side, attach trusses appropriately. deck it,use whatever roofing you choose, trim it, call it good.pretty simple process. i'd build it for you, but you'd have to fly me out on weekends.
ETA: you'll need to have appropriately sized footings for your posts in your plans |
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Posted: 9/4/2017 10:48:54 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
engineered trusses sound like the way to go. you'll probably want to set a couple of posts at the house and a couple/3 the the out side away from the house. look online for an appropriately sized header, one for each side, set said header on top of posts on each 16 ft side, attach trusses appropriately. deck it,use whatever roofing you choose, trim it, call it good.pretty simple process. i'd build it for you, but you'd have to fly me out on weekends. ETA: you'll need to have appropriately sized footings for your posts in your plans I figured two posts, about 16' out from the house and centered on the little breakfast nook bump out we have.That puts them 10' apart, so another post 10' to each side of them, tied into the house with headers sitting on the first-floor top plate. I don't know how to size the headers coming out from the house. |
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Posted: 9/4/2017 11:40:58 PM EDT
[#16]
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Posted: 9/5/2017 11:53:27 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you, you've been very helpful. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You need to learn two new words - Architecture (for you) Structural Design (for the City) Okay, so it's three words but it is two different topics. I inferred from your questions that you do not have competency in either area, so I thought I'd suggest those two things. I may not understand your post or your capabilities, however, I was genuinely trying to help. Please note the discussion of "engineered trusses" sized for your application. Also, tying the new roof into the old (hip roof) is a substantial change, well beyond the complexity of adding a ledger board to the side wall of the house. |
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Posted: 9/5/2017 3:36:02 PM EDT
[#18]
Find a lumber yard near you that builds the trusses in house. They should be able to draw up and size the trusses, and possibly the headers.
Take a picture of where you want it to go, along with exact measurements and they should be able to help you. |
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Posted: 9/5/2017 8:14:02 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Really, you should talk to a structural engineer to get a design that meets your local codes and will be safe. You should talk to an architect to get a design that looks nice and blends into the rest of the house. This will make the new construction an asset rather than a liability during resale. I inferred from your questions that you do not have competency in either area, so I thought I'd suggest those two things. I may not understand your post or your capabilities, however, I was genuinely trying to help. Please note the discussion of "engineered trusses" sized for your application. Also, tying the new roof into the old (hip roof) is a substantial change, well beyond the complexity of adding a ledger board to the side wall of the house. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You need to learn two new words - Architecture (for you) Structural Design (for the City) Okay, so it's three words but it is two different topics. I inferred from your questions that you do not have competency in either area, so I thought I'd suggest those two things. I may not understand your post or your capabilities, however, I was genuinely trying to help. Please note the discussion of "engineered trusses" sized for your application. Also, tying the new roof into the old (hip roof) is a substantial change, well beyond the complexity of adding a ledger board to the side wall of the house. |
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Posted: 9/5/2017 8:39:22 PM EDT
[#20]
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Posted: 9/8/2017 10:17:17 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Find a lumber yard near you that builds the trusses in house. They should be able to draw up and size the trusses, and possibly the headers. Take a picture of where you want it to go, along with exact measurements and they should be able to help you. Your header sizing to support the outer end of the trusses or rafters will depend on the spacing between the posts. Google span tables and select the appropriate condition (clear span roof) to get you in the ball park. I know nothing about design for wind or seismic loads if those are factors. Your municipality or county should be able to tell you what building code applies for your area. Many have them on line, and if not they can be found at the library. The applicable code will have the span tables listed. Do a little reading and go from there. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 9:37:56 AM EDT
[#22]
I don't have the mad skillz to comment too much, other than I'm looking at doing something similar for my future patio. Perusing the county website for permit requirements it appears that I would need a permit if I attach the cover to the house, and don't need a permit if the cover does not attach to the house. So while this project is in the planning stage I considering just using four posts on sonotubes to support the roof, keeping it in that sweet spot between touching the siding and remaining under the roof overhang. Not sure if I want to do that though, since it will probably be more expense in lumber to save the expense of permitting, and might not look so great.
My plan is still in the one-year handwringing stage... 
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