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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:04:52 PM EDT
[#1]
I'd probably drain the master cylinder, fill with fresh fluid and bleed with a vacuum pump until you get clear fluid
You might want to change the transmission fluid and filter too 
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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:09:17 PM EDT
[#2]
I just sold my 89 Delta 88 today, strange timing for this post. If you change the oil, filters, and plugs. you should be set unless there is something else wrong with it. If its been sitting since October, it might take a couple hundred miles to get the bugs worked out. Mine had 250,400 miles on it and ran as smooth as it did when it was new, if you got a well maintained one they are solid cars.
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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:12:36 PM EDT
[#3]
how do I respond to your posts without getting a btt violation or is that just for the EE posts?
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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:14:54 PM EDT
[#4]
That's just for EE posts. |
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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:16:28 PM EDT
[#5]
Well, judging by a buddy of mine back in highschool, weld a chrome brush breaker to the front bumper. Then put on a motorcylce helmet and drive around town.
Semper Fi |
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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:16:39 PM EDT
[#6]
How do I drain the tranny and change the fluid? |
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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:17:51 PM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 3/3/2006 5:18:26 PM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 3/6/2006 8:17:36 AM EDT
[#9]
I had a 1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham in Silver. Absolutely unbreakable (except for all the electronic switchgear). If I can dig up a picture I will post it.
I would pull the carb and give it a thorough cleaning as well. |
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Posted: 3/6/2006 8:34:18 AM EDT
[#10]
Check the brake lines and hoses.
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Posted: 3/6/2006 9:32:27 AM EDT
[#11]
cap and rotor would be good while you're doing the plugs and wires
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Posted: 3/6/2006 1:20:04 PM EDT
[#12]
Reminds me of an old Public Enemy song:
"Sucker on the side, you know you hate my 88" |
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Posted: 3/6/2006 4:04:42 PM EDT
[#13]
hey guys I need some parts anyone parting out a delta 88 I will pay for the parts and shipping. the car is going for inspection soon and all my local junk yards are just crushing cars and not parting them out
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Posted: 3/6/2006 4:55:41 PM EDT
[#14]
I don't know about your particular model, a pic might help Normally, you unbolt the pan on the bottom of the transmission and let the fluid drain out before you do that, you're going to want to get: pan to drain fluid into new pan gasket and filter(some don't have filters) new fluid(you can also drain the torque converter, it holds a lot of fluid) scraper to scrape the old gasket off gasket sealant to use on the pan gasket and, of course a couple of sockets and a ratchet Hope that helps
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Posted: 3/6/2006 7:06:31 PM EDT
[#15]
Torque converters have drain plugs????
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Posted: 3/6/2006 8:25:18 PM EDT
[#16]
some do....but I doubt you find a drain plug on a Gm trans.
oh yeah...and don't put a bunch of rtv or other crap on the gasket.....the gasket will seal well enough on its own, if you do it right.....and a "sealant" is a guaranteed leak. |
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Posted: 3/6/2006 8:40:59 PM EDT
[#17]
Most of the ones I have seen do, usually square drive, allens on some German vehicles Gasket sealant...............MOST gasket sealant gets squeezed out when you tighten the bolts of whatever you are sealing up KEEP THAT IN MIND WHEN YOU ARE APPLYING THE SEALANT Just use a THIN layer, I like to run a bead all around the perimeter then use a finger to spread it out, thicker in the middle You don't really need ANY on out at the edge since the sealant in the middle will be squeezed outward\inward |
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Posted: 3/6/2006 8:52:07 PM EDT
[#18]
The only picture I could find of mine... in the background obviously:
 One that bounced off my corner fence post and survey marker on New Year's Eve:     
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Posted: 3/6/2006 11:24:29 PM EDT
[#19]
I soooo miss my 1983 Buick Electra Limited. 1st car, and it would do anything I asked of it except get good mileage. It didn't catch its 1st wind until after 35mph, but I could do 130mph without it even straining. Goddamn that thing was comfortable...And even went places that people said it had no right to go, and did things that 4x4's couldnt (albeit 4x4's controlled by idiot highschoolers at the time).
If I get a chance to buy another one, I will. It was like this, only white: 
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Posted: 3/6/2006 11:27:59 PM EDT
[#20]
As far as stuff to repair or refresh goes, get a grease gun and do all the fittings up front and the drive shaft. Check your tie-rods. Buy a seal for the rear end (pumpkin) and drain and refil the rear-end lube. 80-140wt should do very nicely.
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Posted: 3/6/2006 11:42:38 PM EDT
[#21]
Well I was being sarcastic but honestly didn't know that. I've only messed with 1 auto trans and that was when I pulled a th350 out of my Firebird and put in the Muncie 4spd. I didn't however notice a drainplug on the torque converter. Auto trans are the devil....... Definitley grease everything that has a grease zert. Most people never grease anything on a car unless it goes to a dealer. Change the diff oil, again something most people never do. Standard tune up on the ignition. Check brake fluid, check pads/shoes. Check wheel cylinders. Check muffler bearings and the belt stretcher plasma filter and you should be set! |
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Posted: 3/7/2006 1:23:54 PM EDT
[#22]
This may sound silly but only takes a couple of seconds. Have somebody stand behind the vehicle and verify that all the lights in the back ar eworking. Driving around with no tail lights is teh suck.
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Posted: 3/7/2006 2:46:27 PM EDT
[#23]
If you need boneyard parts, go to www.car-part.com.
It's a search engine for junkyards.... Search by state/make/model/ect. VERY useful and I've found MANY hard to find parts through it. May want to buy a can of engine degreaser and spray down the whole engine compartment. A clean engine will run better, cooler, more efficient, ect. I just use the whole can, and rinse with a garden hose. |
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Posted: 3/8/2006 3:38:41 PM EDT
[#24]
Do this BEFORE you swap your spark plug wires, and put a bag over the alternator. The GM alternators on the 3800s are very "picky" about getting degreaser/water in them. the brassmobile is an 89 Delta 88, BTW
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Posted: 3/9/2006 4:03:32 AM EDT
[#25]
Thanks for adding that, I forgot to mention it. I've never put a bag over the alt., I just don't spray directly at it. I've only dealt with GM 3.1's, 3100's, & Ford 1.8's and I've never had to put a bag over them. I may be getting a 3800 soon though, so it's good to know that they can be picky about the liquids. Thanks! |
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Posted: 3/9/2006 4:07:07 AM EDT
[#26]
If you don't plan on driving on a dirt/gravel road for a month or more after cleaning, follow it up with Armor All tire Foam (again, without plug wires, and covering alternator on GM) It will look like new. (unless you go down a dirt road right away....) |
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Posted: 3/9/2006 5:30:40 PM EDT
[#27]
You can also back up to a store that has windows to the ground That's how most of the inspectors check them using one person (its actually a lot easier than having two people doing it) |
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Posted: 3/29/2006 12:08:51 AM EDT
[#28]
I have some more questions for you guys
First I thank you guys for the info it was helpful Unfortunatly I need a new winshield to pass PA inspection  so here are the questions 1. Is there any way to flush the radiator (cooling system) with out using a flush kit? Because I don't want to cut any hoses and the kits require that. 2. what are the capacities for the Motor oil and the coolant? how much of what should I use? 3. my windshield washer motor is beat (I think) ok my windshield wipers work with no problems at all I cleaned the hoses and both pre-hose filters and the jets also but no washer fluid Whats the deal??? is it common??? Thanks once again guys |
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Posted: 3/29/2006 12:15:31 AM EDT
[#29]
Valvoline Instant Oil Change - Complete flush for about $50 when you get them on sale with a coupon, beats messing with stuff at that price. Otherwise, you will need to take a hose off.
Coolant: Not sure Oil: a bit over 4 quarts, about 4.25 w/new filter.
New washer fluid tank & pump at recycle yard (junkyard) for $20, try taking the hose off at the output of the washer fluid pump, and spraying canned air in, see if air comes out the nozzles (need two people). Don't use 120psi Air compressor. (A Super Soaker would also work, if you have one, just make sure it seals well...) Otherwise, pull the complete washing system out of a junked car for about $30 total if you do it yourself. |
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