Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
Posted: 2/28/2006 11:42:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/28/2006 3:51:51 PM EDT by danpass]
Tried Toyotanation Corolla forums but, well ...

1995 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8L, 5 spd

Problem 1:
A/C works fantastic, very cold, awesome, yada, yada
It tends to wind down after a while, especially on the highway. Fan loses speed and A/C no longer a/c'ing.
Around town I can hit the fan switch to max and it slowly comes back. This does not work on the highway.
It would seem that higher RPM running causes it to wind down, the question is "What is happening?"

Need a starting point



Problem 2:
Rear windows don't go down. When I was originally looking at the car all four electric windows worked fine. Lockout switch worked fine also. The other three windows would not budge either locally or from driver switch. Perfect.

Now the lockout switch locks out the passenger front and when I disengage the lock it works fine, but the rear windows don't budge (remotely or locally). Idling in the driveway I hit the rear switch (es) and there is that slight drop in RPM so the motors are pulling juice.



Problem 3:
Washer fluid does not spray (I knew this when I bought the car). Sometimes I get that tiny drop in RPM (motor pulling) but I don't really hear anything. Gonna try and clean out the nozzles and see what happens.

Any ideas.

thanks,dan
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 3:52:04 PM EDT
shameless bump to active
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 5:11:17 PM EDT

Originally Posted By danpass:
shameless bump to active

Link Posted: 2/28/2006 7:30:01 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 6:32:18 AM EDT
air conditioiner- any possibility the belt is slipping- any squealing or any other strange noises when it starts to go out? have you checked the sightglass on it?- that's on top of the reciever dryer located in front of the radiator. there's a little window there that when the ac is running should be clear meaning that the system is fully charged. air bubbles indicate a need for a recharge. clear could also mean empty. obviously, any discoloration is cause to get the unit serviced.

i'm no expert on electrical bugs. i'd have to get a schematic and troubleshoot it. good luck- probably didn't help you any.
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 7:54:53 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Thepilot:
air conditioiner- any possibility the belt is slipping- any squealing or any other strange noises when it starts to go out? have you checked the sightglass on it?- that's on top of the reciever dryer located in front of the radiator. there's a little window there that when the ac is running should be clear meaning that the system is fully charged. air bubbles indicate a need for a recharge. clear could also mean empty. obviously, any discoloration is cause to get the unit serviced.

i'm no expert on electrical bugs. i'd have to get a schematic and troubleshoot it. good luck- probably didn't help you any.



no squealing or any other strange noises.

will check sightglass.
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 10:02:22 AM EDT
On the AC, you have an evaporator icing problem. This could be from too much R134a, a dirty fan and evap core or a control problem with the pressure/temperature system. Clean the core and fan first. Then check operation pressures. Another problem is the compressor clutch is locked. This can be verified by looking at the pulley when running or checking the pressures with the AC off. Pressures should be identical +- 10 PSI with the AC off.

For the electrical gremlin, check grounds. These go bad frequently. Get a manual for the wiring diagrams and wire color codes.
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 11:30:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/1/2006 11:31:26 AM EDT by danpass]

Originally Posted By Keith_J:
On the AC, you have an evaporator icing problem. This could be from too much R134a, a dirty fan and evap core or a control problem with the pressure/temperature system. Clean the core and fan first. Then check operation pressures. Another problem is the compressor clutch is locked. This can be verified by looking at the pulley when running or checking the pressures with the AC off. Pressures should be identical +- 10 PSI with the AC off.

For the electrical gremlin, check grounds. These go bad frequently. Get a manual for the wiring diagrams and wire color codes.



I figured as much (for both). It blows mega cold when you first turn it on and stays that way, icing may not be an issue in FL summer . The strange part is that,around town ,kicking the fan to full will bring it back (doesnt work on the highway though).

How do you relieve pressure? Just open the high pressure side, push the valve, and let some out, maybe 5 seconds worth?
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 11:49:57 AM EDT

Originally Posted By danpass:

Originally Posted By Keith_J:
On the AC, you have an evaporator icing problem. This could be from too much R134a, a dirty fan and evap core or a control problem with the pressure/temperature system. Clean the core and fan first. Then check operation pressures. Another problem is the compressor clutch is locked. This can be verified by looking at the pulley when running or checking the pressures with the AC off. Pressures should be identical +- 10 PSI with the AC off.

For the electrical gremlin, check grounds. These go bad frequently. Get a manual for the wiring diagrams and wire color codes.



I figured as much (for both). It blows mega cold when you first turn it on and stays that way, icing may not be an issue in FL summer . The strange part is that,around town ,kicking the fan to full will bring it back (doesnt work on the highway though).

How do you relieve pressure? Just open the high pressure side, push the valve, and let some out, maybe 5 seconds worth?



Don't do it without a gauge. This will cost you $20 at the local Wal Mart. And don't do it if the system has never been worked on and no refrigerant has even been added. Best bet is to leave this to a pro as it is illegal. You can add but not relieve.

You COULD have a stuck relay, keeping the compressor on. The reason it will not work at highway speed is the combination of higher engine RPMs makes the compressor move more refrigerant through the system AND the forced air over the condensor aids in heat rejection, making the system more powerful at highway speed.

Find the fuse for the AC and pull it. If the compressor stays off, it is a relay issue. Find the stuck realy and replace. On Bosch relays, you can pull the cover with a few tiny screwdrivers and actually service the points but I don't think Toyota uses Bosch relays.

If the clutch is shot, you might try hitting the pulley with a hammer as it sometimes loosens a stuck clutch.
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 12:21:29 PM EDT

I'm pretty sure its R134a. Will check again (thought I saw a sticker)
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 3:32:34 PM EDT

Originally Posted By danpass:
I'm pretty sure its R134a. Will check again (thought I saw a sticker)



1995 YM is definitely R134a.
Top Top