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Posted: 12/29/2005 7:49:09 PM EDT
And not end up bleeding or burned.

Everytime I do anytype of work before its done Im gonna burn myself on something hot or get cut or bust my hand on something when my cheap ratchet slips.

I replaced that ratchet
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 8:43:34 PM EDT
I always seem to be bleeding for one reason or another.

WIZZO
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 8:52:08 PM EDT
Though usually not broken, burned or bleeding - I am never anything less than totally utterly and helplessly FILTHY.
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 8:55:57 PM EDT
Two words:
Mechanics
Gloves


Look into em.
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 8:57:16 PM EDT
Cut knuckles everytime and always some sort of dirt goes in my eye.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 6:55:49 AM EDT
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 7:12:50 AM EDT
I do limited stuff, but i guarantee i take at least twice as long and make twice as many mistakes as the next guy.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 7:18:23 AM EDT
Let the car cool down before you start. Time to crack open a cold one to get motivated
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 2:13:17 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Punani:
Let the car cool down before you start. Time to crack open a cold one to get motivated



+1!!!
~Open your hood too, it'll help cool things off quicker.

~Use gloves when handling sharp things, (tranny housing edges, ect.)

~Buy a can of engine degreaser and degrease EVERYTHING before you start unbolting stuff.
Mainly for if you have a oil-pissing motor. ALOT easier to see what you're doing when there's clean metal.

~Use at least craftsman ratchets or better. Some of the really cheap ones will slip eventually.

~USE 6-point sockets, NOT 12-POINT. This will help with tight/stuck bolts.
And get a set of BOTH metric AND standard sizes.
Many cars I've worked on had some metric and some standard bolts...so it's good to have both.

~An impact gun/wrench will help ALOT with stuck bolts. IIRC, its because it "hammers" that bolt around, instead of the slow (sometimes bolt-head twisting) motion of a ratchet.
If you don't have an impact, put your socket/ratchet on there...and smack the ratchet in the direction you want to go with a HAMMER.

~Add leverage to your ratchet by placing a LONG piece of steel conduit over tha handle, to extend it.

~USE PB-Blaster (penetrating oil), and use LOTS of it. I usually spray things down and let them sit for 2-3 hours (sometimes overnight) before I start to unbolt anything.

YMMV, JMHO, ect, ect. If anyone has anything to add, feel free to do so.

Link Posted: 12/30/2005 2:50:15 PM EDT

Originally Posted By RRA-A2:

Originally Posted By Punani:
Let the car cool down before you start. Time to crack open a cold one to get motivated



+1!!!
~Open your hood too, it'll help cool things off quicker.

~Use gloves when handling sharp things, (tranny housing edges, ect.)

~Buy a can of engine degreaser and degrease EVERYTHING before you start unbolting stuff.
Mainly for if you have a oil-pissing motor. ALOT easier to see what you're doing when there's clean metal.

~Use at least craftsman ratchets or better. Some of the really cheap ones will slip eventually.

~USE 6-point sockets, NOT 12-POINT. This will help with tight/stuck bolts.
And get a set of BOTH metric AND standard sizes.

Many cars I've worked on had some metric and some standard bolts...so it's good to have both.

~An impact gun/wrench will help ALOT with stuck bolts. IIRC, its because it "hammers" that bolt around, instead of the slow (sometimes bolt-head twisting) motion of a ratchet.
If you don't have an impact, put your socket/ratchet on there...and smack the ratchet in the direction you want to go with a HAMMER.

~Add leverage to your ratchet by placing a LONG piece of steel conduit over tha handle, to extend it.

~USE PB-Blaster (penetrating oil), and use LOTS of it. I usually spray things down and let them sit for 2-3 hours (sometimes overnight) before I start to unbolt anything.

YMMV, JMHO, ect, ect. If anyone has anything to add, feel free to do so.



I completely agree and stress the items in red.

As for hitting the tool to get a stuck bolt, I've learned that this is even easier with a wrench, and believe it or not, it can out torque an impact under most situations. Even the lightest tap works wonders.

As for the item in blue, it's a freaking miracle in a spray can.


Cuts, brusies, scrapes and burns are common. I usually don't even notice them until after I've washed my hands.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 6:50:50 PM EDT
We use the heck out of the PB blaster. That stuff is good!
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 7:22:02 PM EDT
Looking at scars on my hands now from the last work I did on my BMW with another arfcommer.

Had to change the alternater. Always leave a little blood on the car, it lets her know you care.

TXL
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 7:34:31 AM EDT

Originally Posted By cartech:
We use the heck out of the PB blaster. That stuff is good!



Me too, it's definitely one of the best 'tools' in the shop.

Blaster is clearly the most effective penetrant out there, I've been using it for many years and tried them all, but blaster is still the best by a substantial margin. If something better comes along I'll use it, but that may prove to be difficult.

Link Posted: 12/31/2005 8:05:20 AM EDT
And don't forget, somehow, someway a bolt or screw will fall into some hidden blackhole between the frame and engine
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 8:28:40 AM EDT
Sometimes PB Blaster is not enough. That is when you need to start cutting bolts.

-Sawzall (reciprocating saw) works wonders here

I havent tried the heat thing yet when loosening bolts. It is supposed to work, but I couldn't use it because I was next to a leaky gas tank.....
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 9:10:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/31/2005 11:51:17 AM EDT by olds442tyguy]

Originally Posted By 19suburban96:
And don't forget, somehow, someway a bolt or screw will fall into some hidden blackhole between the frame and engine


That's when you need both the telescoping antenna like magnet pen, and the flimsy spring steel rod attached to a screwdriver handle with a magnet on the end.




Originally Posted By Headlice:
Sometimes PB Blaster is not enough. That is when you need to start cutting bolts.

-Sawzall (reciprocating saw) works wonders here

I havent tried the heat thing yet when loosening bolts. It is supposed to work, but I couldn't use it because I was next to a leaky gas tank.....



Heating the bolt works great, just don't try and impact it. PB catches on fire, but it burns quick and can still do it's job to a certain extent. However, just like your case, it's probably a good idea not to do it around a leaky gas tank, or to keep the torch in the general area of the gas tank for to long.

ETA: Don't spray the PB near the flame of the torch.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 1:20:18 PM EDT
My cars will not run right after I fix them if I don't some blood, sweat, or tears on it. Usually at least 2 of the 3.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 1:34:33 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Taxman:
And not end up bleeding or burned.

Everytime I do anytype of work before its done Im gonna burn myself on something hot or get cut or bust my hand on something when my cheap ratchet slips.

I replaced that ratchet



Yup. I installed the wife's Christmas present, a catback Flowmaster system. I was done in an hour, including welding. No cuts. No burns. It was too easy.

The last time something was that easy, I was crawling out of the attic, thinking that job was too easy. My worn tennis shoe soles slipped off the rafter and plunged through the drywall of my freshly remodeled guest bathroom.......

When I was done with the wife's truck, I expected an earthquake, flood, or wildfire..........
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 6:03:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MoparMike:
My cars will not run right after I fix them if I don't some blood, sweat, or tears on it. Usually at least 2 of the 3.




Dont forget the profanity, at the car, yourself for losing the only wierd size socket you had by dropping, and the "dumbass who designed this (what your replacing or removing to get to) while riding the shortbus home one day"
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 7:28:45 PM EDT
Speaking of dumbass designs, I think someone at Ford engineering caught his wife sleeping with a mechainic.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 7:35:02 PM EDT
If all else fails, break out the blue wrench.

Link Posted: 1/2/2006 10:19:42 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Taxman:

Originally Posted By MoparMike:
My cars will not run right after I fix them if I don't some blood, sweat, or tears on it. Usually at least 2 of the 3.




Dont forget the profanity, at the car, yourself for losing the only wierd size socket you had by dropping, and the "dumbass who designed this (what your replacing or removing to get to) while riding the shortbus home one day"




Wait, were you watching me while I was working on those cars? WTF were you doing in Arkansas?
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 3:03:35 PM EDT
i love playing the "where's the blood coming from" game. i see blood- and then i have to figure out where i'm bleeding- i try to play it at least monthly.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:24:56 AM EDT
If you aint bleeding it aint fixed.

Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:24:43 PM EDT
im a mechanic by trade(lookin to get out of it) theres not a single day i dont get a minor cut if im doing real work. burns are super rare though.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:28:10 PM EDT

Originally Posted By WIZZO_ARAKM14:
I always seem to be bleeding for one reason or another.

WIZZO

+1
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:40:13 PM EDT

Ever since using Mechanix Gloves, no issues
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 6:32:54 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 3:49:52 PM EDT

Originally Posted By RRA-A2:

Originally Posted By Punani:
Let the car cool down before you start. Time to crack open a cold one to get motivated



+1!!!
~Open your hood too, it'll help cool things off quicker.

~Use gloves when handling sharp things, (tranny housing edges, ect.)

~Buy a can of engine degreaser and degrease EVERYTHING before you start unbolting stuff.
Mainly for if you have a oil-pissing motor. ALOT easier to see what you're doing when there's clean metal.

~Use at least craftsman ratchets or better. Some of the really cheap ones will slip eventually.

~USE 6-point sockets, NOT 12-POINT. This will help with tight/stuck bolts.
And get a set of BOTH metric AND standard sizes.
Many cars I've worked on had some metric and some standard bolts...so it's good to have both.

~An impact gun/wrench will help ALOT with stuck bolts. IIRC, its because it "hammers" that bolt around, instead of the slow (sometimes bolt-head twisting) motion of a ratchet.
If you don't have an impact, put your socket/ratchet on there...and smack the ratchet in the direction you want to go with a HAMMER.

~Add leverage to your ratchet by placing a LONG piece of steel conduit over tha handle, to extend it.

~USE PB-Blaster (penetrating oil), and use LOTS of it. I usually spray things down and let them sit for 2-3 hours (sometimes overnight) before I start to unbolt anything.

YMMV, JMHO, ect, ect. If anyone has anything to add, feel free to do so.




The handle extension on a floor jack works perfectly for this, most times.
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 4:59:40 PM EDT
look at any mechanics hands anyday and you will find a least one contusion in some form of repair. i watched one of my guys rip off his thumbnail while scraping an old gasket off of an intake manifold with a screwdriver. another onlooking tech swooned and damn near fainted at the sight. the longer you work on cars the tougher your hand have to be.
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 5:44:45 PM EDT

Originally Posted By netwt12:
look at any mechanics hands anyday and you will find a least one contusion in some form of repair. i watched one of my guys rip off his thumbnail while scraping an old gasket off of an intake manifold with a screwdriver. another onlooking tech swooned and damn near fainted at the sight. the longer you work on cars the tougher your hand have to be.



shit will still happen, no matter how careful you try to be.

A few winters ago, I was pulling bascially the entire front-end off a escort GT. Something slipped, and my hand shot forward over the intake...cutting my arm (about 2in. from the inside crease of my elbow)
and it bled for awhile. Luckily I didnt hit the vein that was a 1/4 in. from it.
My arm was cut on the right-side motor hook (metal loop the sticks up next to the valve cover, for a chain hoist)

I've also electrocuted myself.
The light I was using decided to ground itself through the metal cage/hook surrounding the bulb.
Said light was hanging from the hood latch loop, and when I went to hook up (or disconnect, don't remember) the coil wire....BZZZZZAAAAA PPPPPZZZBBB!!!

Only hooked to a 110 outlet, but my hand muscle went spastic and I couldnt let go...




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