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I have tried those O ring seals. They suck ass. About half the thermostat housings I have come across have been warped from people making the bolts way too tight. The cheap aftermarket ones are even weaker than the factory aluminum. I think they only get like 15lb/ft of torque.
Keep it up Sometimes headers dont fit exactly right on these old trucks. Dont be afraid to put a little dimple here and there if you need to clear something |
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Do both tanks work?
I can honestly say I've never witnessed dual tanks on a half tom chevy. I'm very envious of you |
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Have Bill call me...
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Nice progress. I've always liked the 73-87 Chevy trucks and travelled many of miles in the passenger seat of a 77.
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: Do both tanks work? I can honestly say I've never witnessed dual tanks on a half tom chevy. I'm very envious of you View Quote My mom had a 78 K10 with dual tanks and everything worked flawlessly. I've seen them on at least one other half ton but it's not common. |
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Good resource,
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/ |
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: Do both tanks work? I can honestly say I've never witnessed dual tanks on a half tom chevy. I'm very envious of you View Quote I'll be busting out the thermal under clothes tonight after work to put on the headers. Brrrrr! Thanks for all the encouragement folks! |
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I’m falling in love with this truck, OP
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I just clocked out and it's 24 out, uh.
Gonna hit the house and swap into some thermals and get to work. |
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I need a feel good thread , Im in on this. I miss wrenching
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Looks like the fit pretty well. I have 2nd or 3rd gen Camaro headers on my 77 C10 and I had to dimple a few places. I dont need shorty plugs but 6 out of 8 plugs have to be changes with a wrench. No biggy. You make it work
Some of those muscle cars are almost not worth putting headers on it looks like a nighmare I'm not 100% on that plug. If it is above the distributor it might be for the factory oil pressure sending unit. Maybe something for the cruise control or the original carb. I'm not too familiar with 81-87s |
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Wrenching in your driveway in 20* temps at 2:00 in the AM?!?! That is dedication!! We need to set up a GoFundMe to get OP a shop. Cool project OP. A buddy of mine had a similar setup back in high school with something like a 454 in it, 17 year old me sure thought it hauled ass.
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"When you need it and ain't got it, you're singin' a different tune..."
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Nice work OP. I really like what you are doing. I need to get started on some of my stuff.
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Originally Posted By Spaceboy: The fit is terrific but it's going to have to have shorty plugs eventually. Putting number five in was something else. It had to tightened with a box wrench. https://i.imgur.com/AadgXqe.jpg The flex fitting on my exhaust can't bend enough to hook it up so I'm going to have to source a couple of 45s to hook it up. You can really tell how much these tuck more than the long tubes. https://i.imgur.com/gvYgRaQ.jpg Say what you will about the Chinese but their kids can sure make nice headers. https://i.imgur.com/gPoRUtX.jpg These headers are actually made for a g body but looking at the pictures I had a very strong feeling these $100 headers would fit and they do very nicely. They fit better than the long tubes made for this truck. Since I was freezing already I decided to put on the Holley cable bracket that came today. It fit perfect and the cables are spaced right. I need to find a return spring I like. https://i.imgur.com/RPXYEFX.jpg I also found the water temp and oil pressure wires and hooked those up and also put a ground strap on the head that was hanging from the firewall. So I have a question for y'all, what is this connector? https://i.imgur.com/nXHpBen.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/xvj43D4.jpg So that's where I am today, time for some dinner and warming up. It's currently 21 View Quote Refrigerant pressure switch connector possibly? |
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Oh, and please clean that crud off of the choke butterfly and airhorn before starting
For a return spring, this works well. Inexpensive and looks sharp Return spring kit from Summit It has a few different springs so you can adjust the tension Attached File Attached File |
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sweet project. I had a 76 jimmy back in the day. High Sierra classic. Loved that old hunk of rust..
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For fuck's sake. It is possessive. For the sake of fuck.
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Refrigerant pressure switch connector possibly? View Quote Originally Posted By ch3no2: Oh, and please clean that crud off of the choke butterfly and airhorn before starting For a return spring, this works well. Inexpensive and looks sharp Return spring kit from Summit It has a few different springs so you can adjust the tension https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277622/99FD0742-CD2E-45BD-9E59-3317449451A1_jpe-1801998.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277622/3F0B3B1B-8884-4ECE-BABA-7A6CB949B96A_jpe-1801999.JPG View Quote Thanks for the spring suggestion, I'll take a look! Anyways I'm off today and what's this? Time for some tig work. |
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I posted this before...
I’ve bought and sold many cars and trucks over the years. The ONLY one that I still miss to this day is my old K5. I built a stump-pulling torque monster for it (blew up the 8.5” rear differential, and then later blew up a TH400. Oops). The damn thing would bark all four tires in low range I still miss it |
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Also consider a throttle stop for that carburetor. Moroso throttle stop
You can see it in the second pic I posted. Having a throttle hang WFO sucks |
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All done, a shout out to the real hero, my piece of cardboard I laid on. You kept me out of the gravel and I'll always respect you for that.
Anyway, some of this: Got me that: I had to pie cut one piece on the driver's side to kick it over enough to clear the shift linkage. Anyway, here's what it sounds like: https://i.imgur.com/N0jel3S.gifv I was told it was a 350 with flat tops and a comp 292 cam. I do know the heads could be from a 350, they are 307/350 heads from 1971. They suck though, small valve and big chamber. But anyway, I don't want this to be a hot rod (that's what the Camaro is for) just a low rider. |
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That sounds terrific!!!!!!
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Have Bill call me...
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: That sounds terrific!!!!!! View Quote So TN antique tag laws say you can run a year of make tag on your antique and you just have to keep the correct tag with it. So for my Camaro I found a sample tag from the clerk's office that's says SAMPLE that's the correct year and what did I find on eBay last night? A 1986 SAMPLE tag! $22 later and it's mine! |
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Sounds really good
I'd say it's a 292 cam based on comparison with this video Failed To Load Title If you ever have the timing set off the cam might be stamped on the end. |
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Originally Posted By Spaceboy: All done, a shout out to the real hero, my piece of cardboard I laid on. You kept me out of the gravel and I'll always respect you for that. Anyway, some of this: https://i.imgur.com/FDhUuVF.jpg Got me that: https://i.imgur.com/uuSsqu1.jpg I had to pie cut one piece on the driver's side to kick it over enough to clear the shift linkage. Anyway, here's what it sounds like: https://i.imgur.com/N0jel3S.gifv I was told it was a 350 with flat tops and a comp 292 cam. I do know the heads could be from a 350, they are 307/350 heads from 1971. They suck though, small valve and big chamber. But anyway, I don't want this to be a hot rod (that's what the Camaro is for) just a low rider. View Quote Sounds awesome It is quite a bit of camshaft for a truck (relatively heavy vehicle). Do you know what rear gears it’s got in it? Torque converter stall speed? |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Sounds awesome It is quite a bit of camshaft for a truck (relatively heavy vehicle). Do you know what rear gears it's got in it? Torque converter stall speed? View Quote If I would have planned the motor out I would have went with a rv style cam and a performer intake. As long legged as this dude is it doesn't need rpm. |
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Not much today but progress nonetheless. I fixed the not working hazard flashers. Turns out the flasher was missing and the location it went in was not obvious at all. I had to Google it's location when I couldn't locate it.
I also ran the vacuum line for the hvac so the heater should hopefully work. The wife helped me out by modifying the seat blanket with stitched holes to pass the seatbelt stuff through and sewing velcro strips to anchor the middle to the top so it doesn't slide down. It's going to be awful chilly the next few days so it's looking like Wednesday or Thursday before I work on the power steering. It works intermittently due to not having enough belt adjustment I hope. I have a set of brackets a friend gave me from his c10 he's ls swapping that I'm going to put on. I may be able to work on installing the interior pieces that were removed for some reason. |
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Do you have any pics of the current power steering pump and brackets?
I have extensive experience in getting power steering pumps/brackets/belts sorted out on these trucks. So many people swap engines or pumps and mismatch brackets or pullies it can be a nightmare. And alot of them are hard to get alot of tension on because of the design. I made a tool just to get leverage to put tension on the belt |
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Ahh I see what you mean. I had the same problem I had to make my own bracket before I found a matched set of brackets. You should be able to use the set in the picture from the back of the pump. It has the little tab that mounts to the manifold bolt. Since you have headers you will probably need to use a spacer on a long bolt to get it lined up right
Even with the right brackets there is usually very little swing for adjusting the belt tension. |
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Please keep us updated... I’ve enjoyed this thread so far. You’ve done a great job and put a lot of work into it based on the photos. Also love the video... thing sounds like an old radial engine warbird idling on the ramp ready to take off!
Nothing quite like these old square bodies... I just finished getting my great grandfathers 74 k10 back on the road. They hold a special place in my heart. |
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Originally Posted By TrailerTrash556: Ahh I see what you mean. I had the same problem I had to make my own bracket before I found a matched set of brackets. You should be able to use the set in the picture from the back of the pump. It has the little tab that mounts to the manifold bolt. Since you have headers you will probably need to use a spacer on a long bolt to get it lined up right Even with the right brackets there is usually very little swing for adjusting the belt tension. View Quote I also ordered the suggested throttle return spring set up. That will make the carb more proper. So I have a Mack 10-000 brush coming tomorrow and a can of 1 shot white. I've been playing with designs on pencil and paper and trying to include a M into the design to incorporate my last initial. I can't wait to get to practice. |
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Originally Posted By the1919man: Please keep us updated... I've enjoyed this thread so far. You've done a great job and put a lot of work into it based on the photos. Also love the video... thing sounds like an old radial engine warbird idling on the ramp ready to take off! Nothing quite like these old square bodies... I just finished getting my great grandfathers 74 k10 back on the road. They hold a special place in my heart. View Quote |
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By the looks of your pulley combination you should be able to use a belt that goes crank/water pump/power steering. Do that if you can. It's some insurance that if your alternator belt goes, then it wont overheat. Been there done that
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And what it looked like my whole life, until we pulled it out of storage for the first time in 30 years this past August:
Attached File |
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Originally Posted By the1919man: Here's my 74. Was purchased new by my great grandfather in Pueblo, Colorado. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/107536/1F8A879A-6A73-4933-8978-619CBB89CB30_jpe-1808828.JPG View Quote Tonight is going to be a new power steering pump. I started it this evening and it's pissing fluid from where the house hooks up. It was rusted good and I cleaned it out the best I could but it's not sealing so I bought a new pump and hose. |
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If you’re also changing the hose on the low pressure side, save the original metal tube that attaches to the gearbox and switch the new low pressure hose over to it. The new one I bought didn’t have the correct geometry.
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Did you really just skip on the power steering pump bracket?
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awesome project. keep the updates coming!
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I drove it to work today. It drives fine but darts to the right when braking. I believe this is related to the leaking wheel cylinder in the back. I'm going to have to address that this weekend. The front right no longer locks up when you apply the brakes.
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Originally Posted By Spaceboy: I drove it to work today. It drives fine but darts to the right when braking. I believe this is related to the leaking wheel cylinder in the back. I'm going to have to address that this weekend. The front right no longer locks up when you apply the brakes. View Quote My old square body did the same thing, and after replacing brake calipers, proportioning valve, and bleeding it more times than I can remember, I found out it was a mismatched set of brake pads on the front causing a drastic pull to the right. A new $40 set of pads had it braking perfectly again. Love the thread, keep posting updates! |
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Advertising has us chasing cars and clothes, working jobs we hate so we can buy shit we don't need.
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Originally Posted By DallasLooterShooter: My old square body did the same thing, and after replacing brake calipers, proportioning valve, and bleeding it more times than I can remember, I found out it was a mismatched set of brake pads on the front causing a drastic pull to the right. A new $40 set of pads had it braking perfectly again. Love the thread, keep posting updates! View Quote |
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