User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/16/2020 7:41:18 PM EDT
[#1]
Got heater box, vents, and dash pad in last night. Tonight I sand the molding and repaint it before it goes in.
Gonna redo the windlace around the doors and see if I can wrap up the rear package tray/speakers. Interior is gonna wind up simply needing new seats/headliner/roll bar and I will be happy to call it done. But none of that is likely to happen until car goes off to body which is probably a year away. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2020 8:16:50 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Got heater box, vents, and dash pad in last night. Tonight I sand the molding and repaint it before it goes in. Gonna redo the windlace around the doors and see if I can wrap up the rear package tray/speakers. Interior is gonna wind up simply needing new seats/headliner/roll bar and I will be happy to call it done. But none of that is likely to happen until car goes off to body which is probably a year away. I’ve done one headliner. It turned out pretty good, but never again. Six hours all hunched over.... eff that If I ever need another one done, I’ll swallow my pride and pay someone to do it |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/17/2020 2:19:07 AM EDT
[#3]
I will have the actual headliner done by somebody. Then the roll bar will go in and I will never do one again.
But the headliner material I had delivered is for the rear deck where speakers are going. |
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/23/2020 1:24:29 PM EDT
[#4]
 Center caps should be done in a day or two.   
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/23/2020 1:51:59 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: https://i.imgur.com/IPK1FSK.jpg Center caps should be done in a day or two. https://i.imgur.com/3F0wxDJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Vut7TAI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ek5JRb5.jpg Lookin good  I may end up putting a sound system in mine, once I’m done spending money on horsepower and traction. And that could be a while 
|
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/23/2020 1:57:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Lookin good I may end up putting a sound system in mine, once I’m done spending money on horsepower and traction. And that could be a while I barely have 300 dollars into the sound upgrade. Two rolls of PLA for 3D prints and 50 bucks for new kick panels. Cheap speakers/head unit. Sound upgrade was well worth it. Buddy came over to help disassemble the 331 so we can order new pistons. Gonna try to bump up to 10.5:1. Gonna be converting to a 5spd from the 3spd auto. Hoping to stay cable clutch but it sounds like cable routing with long tubes can be a bitch. Hoping when I goto new pedal assembly it will lower the brake pedal about 2 inches so it will be easier to heal and toe this bitch. Brake pedal height is miles off the floor. @scottsGT did you convert your car to a T5 or still original? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/23/2020 2:02:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: @scottsGT did you convert your car to a T5 or still original? Oh yes. It had a 3 sp manual from the factory. I did the T5 purchase back when a world class T5Z could be purchased and delivered to your front door for $1200. I went with the hydraulic conversion from Modern Driveline. A really nice setup. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/23/2020 3:08:57 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Oh yes. It had a 3 sp manual from the factory. I did the T5 purchase back when a world class T5Z could be purchased and delivered to your front door for $1200. I went with the hydraulic conversion from Modern Driveline. A really nice setup. Modern Driveline is who I chatted up. For my conversion they were quoting around 5k, left out SFI bell housing and some other things I requested. They quoted 1800 for the T5 which isnt bad. I asked about the new TKX and they said it requires the cross member to be around 2.5in further back which then gets into the floor support. Probably go T5 but trying to figure out if I can stay cable clutch. Long tubes are a dicey situation already given my power steering rack choice, only 2 or 3 are basically a known fitment. Hooker Super Comps are high on the list of candidates. But then it may fuck with going cable clutch. So it may be hydraulic which I hate dealing with bleeding. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2020 9:41:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ch3no2]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: I barely have 300 dollars into the sound upgrade. Two rolls of PLA for 3D prints and 50 bucks for new kick panels. Cheap speakers/head unit. Sound upgrade was well worth it. Buddy came over to help disassemble the 331 so we can order new pistons. Gonna try to bump up to 10.5:1. Gonna be converting to a 5spd from the 3spd auto. Hoping to stay cable clutch but it sounds like cable routing with long tubes can be a bitch. Hoping when I goto new pedal assembly it will lower the brake pedal about 2 inches so it will be easier to heal and toe this bitch. Brake pedal height is miles off the floor. @scottsGT did you convert your car to a T5 or still original? You’ll need heads with tight little combustion chambers to get 10.5:1 with a 3.250 stroke. I know Trick Flow has a CNC’d casting with 53cc chambers. That, along with a reasonably thin head gasket and somewhere close to a zero deck (see below) and you’ll be there. I squeezed 10:1 out of mine, which was the engineered goal. My chambers are 61cc, 4.040 flat-top pistons are .005 in the hole at TDC, MLS head gasket compressed thickness is .030 (4.060 bore on the gaskets) netting me a quench height of .035. That’s gnat’s ass minimum. Really good rods and pistons are an absolute must. I do turn a lot of RPM. If you don’t intend on spinning yours any higher than 5500 then a tight quench isn’t the razors edge that it is with my deal. Quench height is important when going after power. Yahoo it (I won’t use Google) for a deep rabbit hole of info. Chassis stuff seems to be your niche (of which I’m envious). I can get them to go mostly straight Motors are my thing 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2020 9:48:37 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Modern Driveline is who I chatted up. For my conversion they were quoting around 5k, left out SFI bell housing and some other things I requested. They quoted 1800 for the T5 which isnt bad. I asked about the new TKX and they said it requires the cross member to be around 2.5in further back which then gets into the floor support. Probably go T5 but trying to figure out if I can stay cable clutch. Long tubes are a dicey situation already given my power steering rack choice, only 2 or 3 are basically a known fitment. Hooker Super Comps are high on the list of candidates. But then it may fuck with going cable clutch. So it may be hydraulic which I hate dealing with bleeding. Hooker Super Comps are what I run. They’re a tight fit, but worth every penny |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2020 1:26:17 PM EDT
[#11]
My headers were an easy choice. Fox body since I did the MII suspension swap. I did have a hard time finding what I wanted. Apparently JBA makes headers in batch runs. And they had discontinued the the long tube fox body’s and they were all over the internet on clearance about a year before I went to buy them. I wanted the titanium ceramic coated and they were sold out everywhere. Found a set of the bright silver coated ones on Amazon of all places. I still had to spend almost $600 for them.
Only mod I had to do was a half moon cut out in the crossmember and fill it with a piece of 3” exhaust pipe to radius it. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/24/2020 2:21:15 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: You’ll need heads with tight little combustion chambers to get 10.5:1 with a 3.250 stroke. I know Trick Flow has a CNC’d casting with 53cc chambers. That, along with a reasonably thin head gasket and somewhere close to a zero deck (see below) and you’ll be there. I squeezed 10:1 out of mine, which was the engineered goal. My chambers are 61cc, 4.040 flat-top pistons are .005 in the hole at TDC, MLS head gasket compressed thickness is .030 (4.060 bore on the gaskets) netting me a quench height of .035. That’s gnat’s ass minimum. Really good rods and pistons are an absolute must. I do turn a lot of RPM. If you don’t intend on spinning yours any higher than 5500 then a tight quench isn’t the razors edge that it is with my deal. Quench height is important when going after power. Yahoo it (I won’t use Google) for a deep rabbit hole of info. Chassis stuff seems to be your niche (of which I’m envious). I can get them to go mostly straight Motors are my thing Buddy of mine is a drag racer with some sponsorship. Bore is 4.00. Current pistons are some Probe units. Going to the flattop piston will add a lot of weight it looks like so probably a rebalance of the crank. The heads are a full cnc ported affair from when we built the engine about 6 years ago while intending it for my 95 Cobra. If I am a bit low on compression so be it but hitting at least 10:1 is the goal. Hydraulic rollers mean I will likely wind out at 6500 tops. I take my 95 Cobra to 5500-6k quite a lot but only as a shift point not as anything sustained. The 66 is likely to get there a whole lot quicker due to vehicle weight as well as traction limitations but I am happy with 6k shift points. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2020 6:57:51 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Your car and my car may be two of the last that were NOT butchered over the years https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/277622/C337D863-CD85-48AD-AF25-295BA4FDEF8D_jpe-1730388.JPG C’mon Man.  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/25/2020 12:37:27 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Modern Driveline is who I chatted up. For my conversion they were quoting around 5k, left out SFI bell housing and some other things I requested. They quoted 1800 for the T5 which isnt bad. I asked about the new TKX and they said it requires the cross member to be around 2.5in further back which then gets into the floor support. Probably go T5 but trying to figure out if I can stay cable clutch. Long tubes are a dicey situation already given my power steering rack choice, only 2 or 3 are basically a known fitment. Hooker Super Comps are high on the list of candidates. But then it may fuck with going cable clutch. So it may be hydraulic which I hate dealing with bleeding. FWIW, I think it is Mustang Steve that puts out a really nice cable quadrant and bearing conversion for the clutch pedal. Just need access to a MIG welder to glue it all together. I started out heading in that direction and already welded the quadrant on my pedal and changed direction. I just didn’t want the cable running through the engine bay on the vintage car. And after dealing with my son’s ‘95 cable and adjustment issues, hydraulic sounded easier. It was. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/25/2020 12:55:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: FWIW, I think it is Mustang Steve that puts out a really nice cable quadrant and bearing conversion for the clutch pedal. Just need access to a MIG welder to glue it all together. I started out heading in that direction and already welded the quadrant on my pedal and changed direction. I just didn’t want the cable running through the engine bay on the vintage car. And after dealing with my son’s ‘95 cable and adjustment issues, hydraulic sounded easier. It was. Yeah I have his website bookmarked for the pedals and bracket. I would just buy the whole damn assembly for like 550. If it sets the pedal height equal then it is worth not having to fuck with current brackets/pedals. One and done the fucker. Not sure what direction exactly I will go but a Zbar linkage for sure isnt it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/25/2020 8:31:59 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rock71: C’mon Man. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/55995/D35EBB7A-A572-4EE7-80C0-2BDE0B6411E6_jpe-1746608.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rock71: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Your car and my car may be two of the last that were NOT butchered over the years https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/277622/C337D863-CD85-48AD-AF25-295BA4FDEF8D_jpe-1730388.JPG C’mon Man. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/55995/D35EBB7A-A572-4EE7-80C0-2BDE0B6411E6_jpe-1746608.JPG Ok, that’s three 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2020 9:23:48 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Yeah I have his website bookmarked for the pedals and bracket. I would just buy the whole damn assembly for like 550. If it sets the pedal height equal then it is worth not having to fuck with current brackets/pedals. One and done the fucker. Not sure what direction exactly I will go but a Zbar linkage for sure isnt it. I have a T5 in my 1968 Mustang behind a rowdy 289. It originally had a z-bar setup using the stock bellhousing with an adapter plate for the T5. It was far from ideal, and when time came for a new exhaust and headers, I changed to a hydraulic system. I used the Modern Driveline cantilevered pedal/master cylinder linkage along with an external slave cylinder, also switched the bellhousing to a Ford Motorsports unit designed for 5.0 Mustangs. The pedal effort is really light with a Ram Musclecar clutch. Only change I'd make is going with the Ram hydraulic throwout bearing instead of the external setup. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2020 11:58:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitulu]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rock71: C’mon Man. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/55995/D35EBB7A-A572-4EE7-80C0-2BDE0B6411E6_jpe-1746608.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rock71: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Your car and my car may be two of the last that were NOT butchered over the years https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/277622/C337D863-CD85-48AD-AF25-295BA4FDEF8D_jpe-1730388.JPG C’mon Man. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/55995/D35EBB7A-A572-4EE7-80C0-2BDE0B6411E6_jpe-1746608.JPG Don't they make aftermarket head units that look like stock, but have modern features? Seems like I read about that somewhere, quite a few years ago. ETA- Something like this. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2020 12:14:58 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitulu: Don't they make aftermarket head units that look like stock, but have modern features? Seems like I read about that somewhere, quite a few years ago. ETA- Something like this. Yeah, someone does, but I’ve never seen one up close. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 12/27/2020 2:18:58 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kitulu: Don't they make aftermarket head units that look like stock, but have modern features? Seems like I read about that somewhere, quite a few years ago. ETA- Something like this. I looked at those headunits that look stock. Lots of iffy quality controlnissues along with shit customer service and that makes the price they want for the things a total hysterical laughing joke. Same company offers a speaker/kickpanel setup and they want a god awful amount for that shit. I have no doubt that the direction I went sounds better for less than half the price. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 12:27:51 AM EDT
[#21]
After almost 6 years I finally started my rear gear swap. Ordered a complete center section. At the same time I’m swapping out the old unreliable Versailles disc for SN95 discs on the housing. Oh what fun this has been. Had to modify the brackets to clock the calipers in the right location. And to make matters even worse, the damned Rod & Custom 4 link won’t work now. The top links attach to a plate that bolts to the housing at the top using the top 3 carrier bolts. New center section is much thicker and the housing studs are only biting about 3 or 4 threads on the nuts. Not to mention I had some original install issues that I cannot reverse now. Besides, when I did drive it, it was one bouncy bitch!
I think next week I’ll be giving Shaun at Street or Track a call for some mid eye springs and shock plates and bolts and pull all this shit out. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 12:39:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: I think next week I’ll be giving Shaun at Street or Track a call for some mid eye springs and shock plates and bolts and pull all this shit out. Leafs with a panhard bar or wattslink would probably be a damn nice option without being even remotely pricey. If I wasnt after beating my 2015 in the corners I would just go leafs and panhard for the rear. Got center caps done.   Considering the gas cap. If I do it I may not do the red and simply leave machined aluminum with a carbon fiber background. The car is gonna be going majority black with minimal red striping. Would mill out to the black ring creating a shelf that the new emblem would get bonded to.  
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 12:45:33 AM EDT
[#23]
Bro you know what would be crazy? A 2.3l Ecoboost swap.
|
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 12:51:20 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TREETOP: Bro you know what would be crazy? A 2.3l Ecoboost swap. Maybe if I didnt have a DART 331 already. Would be a semi interesting build if there was a complete 2.3 donor car that I could gut the dash/seats out of as well. Stupid 6spd or auto is probably so big it would need tons of trans tunnel work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 1:05:15 AM EDT
[#25]
Nice center caps!
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 1:27:10 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Maybe if I didnt have a DART 331 already. Would be a semi interesting build if there was a complete 2.3 donor car that I could gut the dash/seats out of as well. Stupid 6spd or auto is probably so big it would need tons of trans tunnel work. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By TREETOP: Bro you know what would be crazy? A 2.3l Ecoboost swap. Maybe if I didnt have a DART 331 already. Would be a semi interesting build if there was a complete 2.3 donor car that I could gut the dash/seats out of as well. Stupid 6spd or auto is probably so big it would need tons of trans tunnel work. The new one is a 10-speed auto. 310HP, easily makes 400 with a downpipe, intake, bigger intercooler and tune. Random thought. Carry on. 
|
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 2:57:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TREETOP: The new one is a 10-speed auto. 310HP, easily makes 400 with a downpipe, intake, bigger intercooler and tune. Random thought. Carry on. Well aware of the 10spds. My 2015 GT PerfPack is my least favorite Mustang out of the bunch, even my 4.6 3v 2005 GT had a bit of an edge in rawness/unsophistication about it. Sold it only because why own a 135k mile 4.6. When the 66 is done I am hoping I have enough left in me to whore myself on overtime another 2 or more years to get a 13-14 Boss 302 Laguna Seca or a 10-12 GT500. This car is gonna be rowdy as fuck with the 331 at an easy 400hp and a 5spd. Zero sophistication and a very real constant reminder that it can kill you with a quickness. With it set to out perform my 2015 it will may take the spot of my 95 Cobra as my favorite. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/1/2021 9:29:12 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Zero sophistication and a very real constant reminder that it can kill you with a quickness. Makes you feel alive, doesn’t it? 
|
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/2/2021 11:35:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#29]
Set the epoxy on a pair of these tonight.
One of them may become the center of my gas cap. Polishing the aluminum was a pain in the ass. It isnt perfect but I am not looking for mirror smooth perfect. 
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/7/2021 5:16:10 PM EDT
[#30]
Looking into a sniper EFI kit. Sender/pump/tank/800cfm 4 barrel type sniper unit. Just under 1500.
Could get it plumbed in on the current 289 and run it for awhile until the 331 is ready to go in. Like the features available and should make it easier to move towards having a reliable car I can take out of town with better mileage. Sucks being between a nearly finished engine, nearly finished suspension, and wanting to convert to the 5spd. All together I am looking at about 18-20k to be done save for bodywork. |
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/19/2021 8:11:59 PM EDT
[#31]
Rear suspension ordered today.
9inch full floating rear. 3 link 13in 4 piston rotors with parking brake Sport valved coil overs. Probably 6 week build time. Pistons/crank came out to be sent off for rebalancing with higher compression pistons. Regrinding cam. Hoping to be in the 425hp range which for the 66 should be a stupid amount. Will be awhile before engine/trans is a combo that is ready to go in so will be drivint on low power mode for awhile with current 2bbl and 3spd. |
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/30/2021 1:42:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#32]
Parts starting to come in.
UPS did their best to damage the damn thing. Plastic case was put inside a cardboard box. Gauranteed somebody slid it down a chute when off loaded from the trailer and it just kept on keeping on right off the belt and onto the concrete. Judging from cardboard box it probably happened multiple times. The plastic case was cracked in several spots and even tore loose one of the nuts that hold the case into shipping container. Looks like plastic case did it's job and protected rear end.  Hopefully rest of suspension here in about 3 weeks. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/30/2021 1:49:48 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Parts starting to come in. UPS did their best to damage the damn thing. Plastic case was put inside a cardboard box. Gauranteed somebody slid it down a chute when off loaded from the trailer and it just kept on keeping on right off the belt and onto the concrete. Judging from cardboard box it probably happened multiple times. The plastic case was cracked in several spots and even tore loose one of the nuts that hold the case into shipping container. Looks like plastic case did it's job and protected rear end. https://i.imgur.com/HaJ0yLv.jpg Hopefully rest of suspension here in about 3 weeks. Glad to hear that the plastic case did it’s job. Those third members are pretty stout. It’s tough to hurt one (usually )What ratio? |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 1/30/2021 2:31:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Glad to hear that the plastic case did it’s job. Those third members are pretty stout. It’s tough to hurt one (usually )What ratio? 3.50 with a TruTrac I have 3.73 in both the 95 and the 2015 and I hate it. I would like 2nd to hold out just a little longer in both gears. My 2005 was 3.55 and I was very happy with it. Having a smaller diameter tire plus moving to a 5spd should give me decent acceleration plus being able to wind out 4th pretty well. Also be able to hit 5th and knock RPMs down nicely in freeway. Was pretty solidly locked on that gear ratio. Recently watched a nice video of a Street Or Track stang equipped stang chasing down a vette at ThunderHill. Gearing was 3.50 and a T5. Only further confirmed my educated guess as being a good one. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/30/2021 3:07:37 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: 3.50 with a TruTrac I have 3.73 in both the 95 and the 2015 and I hate it. I would like 2nd to hold out just a little longer in both gears. My 2005 was 3.55 and I was very happy with it. Having a smaller diameter tire plus moving to a 5spd should give me decent acceleration plus being able to wind out 4th pretty well. Also be able to hit 5th and knock RPMs down nicely in freeway. Was pretty solidly locked on that gear ratio. Recently watched a nice video of a Street Or Track stang equipped stang chasing down a vette at ThunderHill. Gearing was 3.50 and a T5. Only further confirmed my educated guess as being a good one.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/31/2021 9:24:40 AM EDT
[#36]
LOL! My center section came shipped in a 5 gallon bucket and in a box. It was so tight down inside the bucket I had to use a sawzall to get it out.
|
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 2/17/2021 6:42:18 PM EDT
[#37]
Pistons and crank back from rebalancing.
Starting the rebuild of the block tonight. Reground cam should come back this weekend and can more or less button up the block. Victor Jr intake with 1.7 roller rockers on CNC ported heads at probably better than 10:1 compression. Car should be able to move out pretty quick with the 3.50 rear. Going to electric water pump. Wishing I could find a sane option for an electric driven hydraulic steering pump. Hopefully rear suspension ships this week or next. Guessing the snow storm is gonna fuck up shipping times. Things that are left, radiator and electric fans, holley sniper and tank kit, t5 transmission swap kit, and drive shaft. Then cage/seats/bodywork. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/19/2021 12:17:01 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Pistons and crank back from rebalancing. Starting the rebuild of the block tonight. Reground cam should come back this weekend and can more or less button up the block. Victor Jr intake with 1.7 roller rockers on CNC ported heads at probably better than 10:1 compression. Car should be able to move out pretty quick with the 3.50 rear. Going to electric water pump. Wishing I could find a sane option for an electric driven hydraulic steering pump. Hopefully rear suspension ships this week or next. Guessing the snow storm is gonna fuck up shipping times. Things that are left, radiator and electric fans, holley sniper and tank kit, t5 transmission swap kit, and drive shaft. Then cage/seats/bodywork. I’ve been so tempted to do the T5 swap. I haven’t seen many that are rated for the torque that my deal puts out, and I’m about done blowing stuff up. I just want to plant the loud pedal and go I know I’ll never break my Toploader behind a smallblock |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/19/2021 12:56:45 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: I’ve been so tempted to do the T5 swap. I haven’t seen many that are rated for the torque that my deal puts out, and I’m about done blowing stuff up. I just want to plant the loud pedal and go I know I’ll never break my Toploader behind a smallblock TKO is what you seek. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/19/2021 2:39:36 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: TKO is what you seek. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: I’ve been so tempted to do the T5 swap. I haven’t seen many that are rated for the torque that my deal puts out, and I’m about done blowing stuff up. I just want to plant the loud pedal and go I know I’ll never break my Toploader behind a smallblock TKO is what you seek. Yeah, but that means cutting up the transmission tunnel. I’m not sure I want to do that. But I’ve thought about it |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/20/2021 10:49:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Cobradriver]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Yeah, but that means cutting up the transmission tunnel. I’m not sure I want to do that. But I’ve thought about it Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: I’ve been so tempted to do the T5 swap. I haven’t seen many that are rated for the torque that my deal puts out, and I’m about done blowing stuff up. I just want to plant the loud pedal and go I know I’ll never break my Toploader behind a smallblock TKO is what you seek. Yeah, but that means cutting up the transmission tunnel. I’m not sure I want to do that. But I’ve thought about it A new TKX might fit. I'll say this much...if you like rpms, the TKO doesn't. When I had the old 351/427 with a hydraulic roller in my Cobra the TKO worked fine. When I upgraded to a Dart block 454 stroker with a solid roller the TKO no workey any more. 7500 rpm became a little much. I upgraded to the Magnum and all is right with the world. Had the TKX been out I would have used it. As an FYI about gears...2300 lbs, 3.73 diff, TKO with a 3.27 first and an engine making almost 600 rwhp made for impressive throttle only burnouts. When I went with the Magnum(TUET11010) I switched to the 2.66 first and it calmed the car down a bunch.... ETA...565 rwhp on a Mustang dyno...580/590 on three different Dynojets. I like the bigger numbers. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 2/20/2021 7:58:00 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Yeah, but that means cutting up the transmission tunnel. I’m not sure I want to do that. But I’ve thought about it I called modern driveline and they said the TKX needs mods to the trans tunnel as well. Hence reason I am going T5. On 245/40-17 tires I am unlikely to get the kind of traction that will outright kill T5 quickly. Car is gonna be more road course rated than drag strip rated. On the street I should have plenty of traction issues to make it survivable. We got the crank installed. Started to do pistons/rods and found the old probe pistons were like a .912 diameter rod instead of a .927. So rods are out getting reamed for the new pistons/pins. Hopefully engine back together come next week. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/20/2021 11:40:06 PM EDT
[#43]
I spent the day under mine finally putting shit back together again. What a shit show my center section swap has turned into
When I bought my 4 link coil over from Rod & Custom, it was their first design. The upper links bolted on via a plate that was held into place with the top 3 nuts and studs for the center section. A very weak link that would not bolt back in place with the new center section that has a thicker edge. FWIW, called Rod & Custom and they said they have a fix and would get back in touch. They never did, even after calling back twice and leaving a message. I’m really disappointed in them. All I can think is the old guy that use to own it retired or passed on and left it to his son, but the original owner was very customer oriented. So I came up with my own welded on bracket system. This is the bracket bolted in place to start making my brackets  Finished  Another shit show....the adapters for SN95 brakes on my Versailles rear ended. Supposedly they bolt right up. They do, but clocked in the wrong location. Lots of online research and a few emails to North Race Cars and I just had to re-clock by drilling two holes on each plate and cutting the axle housing flange flat on the back side.  Finally feel like I had a productive day for once. Hell, I even cleaned up the garage some. |
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 2/21/2021 6:36:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#44]
Huh...
Modern Driveline had been saying I would need to cut/make changes to the tunnel support to do a TKX. Appears to be only the tunnel cross member positioning. TKX on factory crossmember but relcated T5 install details |
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 3/1/2021 4:11:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#45]
Engine is nearly fully dressed.
Just ordered off 3g alternator, mounting bracket, meziere 55gpm electric water pump, and oil pressure sender. In 2 weeks I am either ordering off the electric fans/radiator or the holley sniper conversion kit. After that all I got left is the T5 conversion and headers. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2021 11:40:01 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Engine is nearly fully dressed. Just ordered off 3g alternator, mounting bracket, meziere 55gpm electric water pump, and oil pressure sender. In 2 weeks I am either ordering off the electric fans/radiator or the holley sniper conversion kit. After that all I got left is the T5 conversion and headers. https://i.imgur.com/8Miju5m.jpg I like motors 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2021 1:09:22 PM EDT
[#47]
You're going to so blow that fucking T-5 up. I like it.
My son bought one of the Astro A-5's for his '95 with the Kenne Bell, but it was a noisy son of a bitch. He never did run it with the KB though.
|
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 3/1/2021 6:43:05 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: You're going to so blow that fucking T-5 up. I like it. My son bought one of the Astro A-5's for his '95 with the Kenne Bell, but it was a noisy son of a bitch. He never did run it with the KB though.Given my gearing and my vehicle weight I am not sure that I will kill the T5. My 95 Cobra is holding up pretty well and I am a lot harder on that car than I have any reason to be. I manage to get both rears breaking loose at 3k rpm rolling hard in 1st with hard shifts into 2nd at 5500-6krpm. That's a 3200 pound or more car with 3.73s and 315s. On i am betting with 3.50 gear the 245-275 wide tires with a hard road race suspension is likely to spin the tires rather than weight transfer and really load the trans. We shall see. |
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 1:25:28 AM EDT
[#49]
So...
Electric water pump came in and I found things are gonna get interesting trying to get my power steering running. So it looks like I will be doing some CAD/CAM to make something that bolts onto the 3 accesory holes in the head. Will do a set of stand offs from the head to get the mounting plate for the GM Type 2 pump out just far enough then use spacers between the pump and the plate for precise position. Will likely use one hole as a pivot point and slot the other two boot positions to let me get some swing on the pump for belt tension.  Already have a little bit of the work done if I go back to my coil mount and play around with some 3d printing mock ups I should be cutting aluminum pretty quick. Likely gonna use 3/8 or even 1/2 aluminum plate. A 6x10 inch piece should get me enough surface area to get a working piece then polish it out after it is cut. 
|
|
|
CA, USA
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 5:46:19 PM EDT
[#50]
Found an engine/head mount bracket along with an adjustable pump from KRC.
Will wind up fixing some of the issues I disliked with the unisteer pump fittings and reservoir while also letting me tune the power steering. Unisteer pump will wind up as a spare. Hoping to be getting spacing figured out and test fitting belts sometime at the end of next week. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
