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Posted: 10/13/2020 2:29:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: I am gonna be north of 300rwhp and closer to 400rwhp. No desire for one wheel peel so that means I am going to a trutrak. Add to that regearing to a 3.25-3.50 gear ratio and it makes zero sense sticking to an 8 inch. I could goto an 8.8 or a couple different 9inch options but the full floating rear option is actually respectfully priced compared to some of the traditional 9in options that are out there. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By 10mm_: Good luck breaking that 8 inch with a smallblock, they're tougher than you might think. I am gonna be north of 300rwhp and closer to 400rwhp. No desire for one wheel peel so that means I am going to a trutrak. Add to that regearing to a 3.25-3.50 gear ratio and it makes zero sense sticking to an 8 inch. I could goto an 8.8 or a couple different 9inch options but the full floating rear option is actually respectfully priced compared to some of the traditional 9in options that are out there. My vote is for an 8.8, not just because of cost but also weight/efficiency. 9"'s are heavy and suck up power to turn. About 15 years ago I rebuilt the center section in my 8.8" (Foxbody), and added Moser axles. Still 28 spline in the factory diff, I did add a Ford Racing 3.73 ring/pinion. My 347 made 397/377 at the tire NA and 497/508 at the tire on a 100 shot. (DynoJet) That was enough for 10.79@126 with a 1.49 60' on bias ply tires and a stick shift, race weight 3880. That rear end is still going strong to this day. In that light car with street tires an 8.8 is going to be cheaper and more efficient and flat out work better. If you have big plans for an 88mm and a powerglide then the 9" would be a good option to buy once cry once. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/13/2020 4:03:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 10mm_: I wasn't recommending you build the 8", I was just saying you aren't likely to break it before you swap it out. Especially on those 17's. My vote is for an 8.8, not just because of cost but also weight/efficiency. 9"'s are heavy and suck up power to turn. About 15 years ago I rebuilt the center section in my 8.8" (Foxbody), and added Moser axles. Still 28 spline in the factory diff, I did add a Ford Racing 3.73 ring/pinion. My 347 made 397/377 at the tire NA and 497/508 at the tire on a 100 shot. (DynoJet) That was enough for 10.79@126 with a 1.49 60' on bias ply tires and a stick shift, race weight 3880. That rear end is still going strong to this day. In that light car with street tires an 8.8 is going to be cheaper and more efficient and flat out work better. If you have big plans for an 88mm and a powerglide then the 9" would be a good option to buy once cry once. Car is gonna be for cornering not for straight line. My 95 Cobra has a pretty well built 8.8 in it with 3.73s. I know how it behaves with around 220-240rwhp. Not looking to go that route due to needing a ton of fab work to get it to jive with the 3 link. A nasty small block 66 coupe with great handling is my answer to dropping my plans to do a FFR Type 65 coupe years ago. I am 20 minutes away from Buttonwillow Raceway and would really like to get to bomb the track a couple times. Otherwise it will be used for eating up the back roads. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/23/2020 7:41:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#3]
Brakes and rack came in other day. Massive rotors are massive
Rest of front suspension ordered today. All new control arms and coil over fronts with camber kit and sub frames. Hoping to have rear end and 3 link with coil overs by end of dec or january. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/30/2020 9:02:01 PM EDT
[#4]
Welp...
I went full retard. New spindles with billet caliper mounts for massive 4 piston calipers and 13 x 1.25 inch two piece rotors. Coil overs and full new control arms along with the sub frame connectors. Be a few weeks before I can get it all installed with the new quicker ratio power steering. Will be a few months before I get the rear end and suspension to match the front. 
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Posted: 10/30/2020 10:14:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Welp... I went full retard. New spindles with billet caliper mounts for massive 4 piston calipers and 13 x 1.25 inch two piece rotors. Coil overs and full new control arms along with the sub frame connectors. Be a few weeks before I can get it all installed with the new quicker ratio power steering. Will be a few months before I get the rear end and suspension to match the front. https://i.imgur.com/uTBmz9o.jpg Who’s kit is that? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/31/2020 2:57:01 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DonofKalifornia: Who’s kit is that? StreetOrTrack After looking at what they have compared to Maier and GlobalWest iy was pretty much a no brainer. 3 link full floating rear axle should prove bomb proof for the power my 331 should make. Hoping the car will come in under 3000 pounds. |
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Posted: 10/31/2020 12:50:43 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: StreetOrTrack After looking at what they have compared to Maier and GlobalWest iy was pretty much a no brainer. 3 link full floating rear axle should prove bomb proof for the power my 331 should make. Hoping the car will come in under 3000 pounds. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By DonofKalifornia: Who’s kit is that? StreetOrTrack After looking at what they have compared to Maier and GlobalWest iy was pretty much a no brainer. 3 link full floating rear axle should prove bomb proof for the power my 331 should make. Hoping the car will come in under 3000 pounds. I remember Bill Maier back when he started his business, he ran a A/S Mustang. His kids run it now, much more focused than Bill. I think Globalwest started in Hayward too. |
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Posted: 10/31/2020 4:51:38 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Hoping the car will come in under 3000 pounds. It’ll be close. Lots of aluminum up front, battery in the trunk. I removed what I didn’t need/want... heater core/plenum/fan motor, carpet padding, power steering I can’t really make the nose any lighter without carbon fiber body pieces and/or aluminum block. Right at 3000# with a little fuel and without me in it. 9” rear, so there’s weight in that |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/31/2020 5:31:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: It’ll be close. Lots of aluminum up front, battery in the trunk. I removed what I didn’t need/want... heater core/plenum/fan motor, carpet padding, power steering I can’t really make the nose any lighter without carbon fiber body pieces and/or aluminum block. Right at 3000# with a little fuel and without me in it. 9” rear, so there’s weight in that Hoping to lose a lot of weight with my coil overs replacing the leaf springs. But then I am going from a 8in housing to 9in. Probably a draw. Going towards a roll bar with a removable harness bar once I get better seats |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/31/2020 5:34:07 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DonofKalifornia: I remember Bill Maier back when he started his business, he ran a A/S Mustang. His kids run it now, much more focused than Bill. I think Globalwest started in Hayward too. The StreetOrTrack stuff really impresses me in the over all level of detail that goes into it. The 3 link really sold me for the entire kit. Was considering going leafsprings in the rear with a panhard bar. Would have been a bit cheaper in the end. There is also something about Aussie dudes that come to the US for the pursuit of track based auto parts. |
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Posted: 10/31/2020 7:39:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Originally Posted By uglygun: Got it to breathe to life for a moment then it decided it isnt gonna want to start again. Plugs are foulded bad. Went looking at the carb and we are guessing it needs a rebuild to stop flooding the poor cylinders. I don't understand why people don't buy a new carb from the parts store. No fucking around, it's ready to go. Fiddlefuck with the settings and you're good to go. I myself would buy one of those bolt on fuel injection systems, set and forget. |
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Posted: 10/31/2020 7:49:24 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Got the doors completely fixed for all handles and locks. Get the Kindig it flush mount door handles. I friend has a set on his 2017 Mustang and they are sweet. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/31/2020 9:21:25 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KA3B: Get the Kindig it flush mount door handles. I friend has a set on his 2017 Mustang and they are sweet. Funny you mention those. Cause I hate them. Like a lot. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/9/2020 12:26:06 PM EDT
[#14]
No work on suspension yet but spent a bit of time in CAD/CAM.
One badge done. Will start the other soon then possibly try to figure out a fixturing method for my gas cap so I can remove the center to be replaced by a terlingua bunny. Might get it polished out for chrome first then look into setting the color epoxy and clear which would give it a ton of depth. 
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Posted: 11/10/2020 6:42:26 PM EDT
[#15]
Not to hijack this thread, but this is a thread of my little stroker build.
If all goes well, my son and I will put it in the car this weekend |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/14/2020 11:27:48 PM EDT
[#16]
Front suspension and brakes are installed.
Rack going in soon. Was a bitch dealing with finding a belt for the ppwer steering. Hope to button up and have brakes/steering bled tomorrow. Car had some helper springs on rear shocks that we removed so car may sit a lot lower all of a sudden. At least front coil overs will diql in to match. Front shocks were badically blowm to the point of being Austin Powers penis pumps in terms of compressive resistance. Cars name is now "Deadpool". An injury with an air tool basically means a chunk of my buddy's finger tip is forever a piece of the car. Car is currently red and black, why red "well that is so they can't see you bleed." Probably gonna go with a majority of the car black and then do red pin striping/accents. Custom logos for the wheel center caps, gas cap, and a unicorn to replace the front pony corral are in the works. 
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Posted: 11/14/2020 11:40:55 PM EDT
[#17]
In!
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Posted: 11/15/2020 7:25:10 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Front suspension and brakes are installed. Rack going in soon. Was a bitch dealing with finding a belt for the ppwer steering. Hope to button up and have brakes/steering bled tomorrow. Car had some helper springs on rear shocks that we removed so car may sit a lot lower all of a sudden. At least front coil overs will diql in to match. Front shocks were badically blowm to the point of being Austin Powers penis pumps in terms of compressive resistance. Cars name is now "Deadpool". An injury with an air tool basically means a chunk of my buddy's finger tip is forever a piece of the car. Car is currently red and black, why red "well that is so they can't see you bleed." Probably gonna go with a majority of the car black and then do red pin striping/accents. Custom logos for the wheel center caps, gas cap, and a unicorn to replace the front pony corral are in the works. https://i.imgur.com/hv2wGDK.jpg Nice  And yes... coil springs aren’t to be fucked around with. I hope your buddy is ok |
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Posted: 11/15/2020 7:27:07 AM EDT
[#19]
I suddenly have brake envy
 Although my OE Kelsey Hayes (factory GT car) do ok |
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Posted: 11/15/2020 10:01:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ScottsGT]
[#20]
This thread got me motivated. I jacked my ‘66 up yesterday, put it on stands and measured my pinion type and ordered my new 3:50 center section with an Eaton Truetrac.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/15/2020 11:48:29 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Nice And yes... coil springs aren’t to be fucked around with. I hope your buddy is ok It wasnt the coils. It was something completely different. Basically ran a bolt in and when it bit it went right past the making of a blood blister to just biting that chunk of skin right off like nail clippers or a hole punch would. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/15/2020 1:44:38 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: This thread got me motivated. I jacked my ‘66 up yesterday, put it on stands and measured my pinion type and ordered my new 3:50 center section with an Eaton Truetrac. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5682/5bZ7qG.jpg A 3.50 really seems like it will be best combo for decent acceleration and top end while not being annoying as hell at freeway speeds. My 95 cobra with a 3.73 would be obnoxious if not for overdrive. |
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Posted: 11/15/2020 3:04:51 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: A 3.50 really seems like it will be best combo for decent acceleration and top end while not being annoying as hell at freeway speeds. My 95 cobra with a 3.73 would be obnoxious if not for overdrive. Has a 4:11 right now and running the T-5z manual. 4:11 was just too much for what I want out of this car. I had a 3:73 in my SN95 with an AODE and I have the 3:55 option in my ‘15. I really like that combination. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/15/2020 11:26:31 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Has a 4:11 right now and running the T-5z manual. 4:11 was just too much for what I want out of this car. I had a 3:73 in my SN95 with an AODE and I have the 3:55 option in my ‘15. I really like that combination. Had 3.55 in my 2005 and have 3.73 in my 2015 GT perf pack as well. Even with the tall ass tires of the 2015 the 3.73 just isnt my favorite. Hate the shift point from 2nd to 3rd being almost precisely at 60mph with the 3.73. Loved the 3.55 in my 2005. Wish my 2015 was 3.55 but "muh perf pack..." May rebuild engine with higher compression pistons and the HP boost should really drive the 66 well with 3.50. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/18/2020 8:07:51 PM EDT
[#25]
Had a possible bad flare on front brake line at master cylinder. 95 Mustang dual master cylinder requires oddball flare. Supplied line may have been off center/off alignment.
Gonna give an adapter a try tonight and reflare the line. If front brakes will bleed the car is ready for a drive after we doubke check the wheel base and maybe hit the strut rods to dial a bit of caster in. Looking forward to getting car back on the road. Suspension is when you push on it while on it's wheels is firm. Front antisway bar is about double the diameter of what came off. Need to get it aligned and then starting to throw some corners at it. See where and how I rub the fenders and then have an actual reason for rolled or pulled fenders. Once rear suspension goes on and new quarter panels go on I will hopefully be able to tuck a 275 wide tire. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 9:51:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Something was goofy with the SN95 as far as metric vs SAE. I do remember when I did the Cobra brake swap I had to use a ‘93 Cobra MC for threads to match. I think the Cobra that year was metric?? Might also be something with the line diameter? Just throwing that out there if it may be part of the issue.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2020 3:06:26 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Something was goofy with the SN95 as far as metric vs SAE. I do remember when I did the Cobra brake swap I had to use a ‘93 Cobra MC for threads to match. I think the Cobra that year was metric?? Might also be something with the line diameter? Just throwing that out there if it may be part of the issue. So my fittings came in and there was a note from Maximum Motorsports that the rear port is the front brake port and the front port is for the rear. Told my friend this and he was all "bullshit, front is front rear is rear." Who am I to argue... i suggested switchi g the lines last week but he was all "it doesnt matter". Well we tear the fucker out. Look at all the lines, look at the ports. Everything is clear. We put the master cylinder into a vise and pull the clip and discover the piston is two piece. I tell him "dude this thing likely has seperate springs acting as a proportioning valve". Drive out the second piece and sure enough another spring to the piston. So we put it all back together and swap the lines out, front brakes suddenly working and bled with good pedal feel. Hardly anything coming out the back but we have rear drums still so not much gonna happen til the rear end comes in with 13in discs and it wont need a ton of pressure to hit the right bias. I was aware of the weird swapping of fitting sizes on Cobras to differentiate them from other master cylinders on the assembly line. Reading up on the whole 93, 94-95 GT, 95 Cobra Master cylinders I ran into an old corral post by you. There are various changes in the master cylinders with differing proportioning. Could be I get a different master cylinder some day and just run a rear proportioning valve to tweak bias. For now front brakes as they sit will be better than the complete brakes that were replaced. |
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Posted: 11/19/2020 9:22:50 AM EDT
[#28]
Awesome! My son often runs across posts I've made too while researching something online. I'll get a call, "Dad, did you know back in 2004 you solved my problem with......" I guess that's why I have to be very careful what I post online! LOL!!
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/21/2020 8:30:51 PM EDT
[#29]
Front brakes bled and bedded.
Took it out for a spin up and down some back roads and the front suspension is amazing and the brakes do everything they are asked. Now if I can get the rear end and rear brakes the car will be begging and screaming for more power. Top of fender is about 24 1/2 inches from the ground on a 25in tall tire. Came down from around 26 1/2 inches. Alignment is close but it will be nice to hit the numbers I want once I k ow where we sit as it is now. Power steering is nice but I wish they did some things differently/better with hoses/fittings and most importantly the fucking cross member which I had to have plasma cut for a clearance issue. 
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Posted: 11/23/2020 11:05:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: sefus]
[#30]
Just getting caught up in this thread...
Shaun the owner of Street of Track is the freaking man! He worked with me putting together a brake and suspension system for my 68 coupe and approached it keeping in mind what the car is and what it isn’t. Great dude and great products. Yours is looking great. I can’t quite get to liking 17s on a coupe but to each their own. These cars are right at home on the back roads. 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/23/2020 8:01:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#31]
The front end is nuts. Like I need better seats and harnesses just to stay in the car so it doesnt throw me right out of the car for the way it can turn now.
The 17s are likely helping some. Got 225s on all corners for now but moving to 245 front and 275 rear will be the goal. I dont even have an alignment, it is close right now but not quite dialed perfectly, nor have I got the 3 link rear and subframes yet. Once the suspension is all together this car is gon a be screaming for more power. 300-350rwhp would put this car into a very strong running nasty street machine category. Car went from being sketchy 40-50mph car where you stayed in the slow lane on the freeway to a confident 75-80mph car on the freeway. It hits 90+ with no problem but not gonna make a habit of that til mods are done and everything is sorted. Strange though is that my damn upper radiator hose is pressurizing. Changed the thermostat and radiator cap out last month and I stopped having issues with the radiator pushing fluid to the overflow. Now the problem is back. Gonna pull thermostat to see if maybe it is stuck open which defeating the pause of fluid and cooling of radiator being just stuck open. Car isnt overheating, yet, but it is likely getting close. If it is the water pump I am likely to "fuck it" point with deadpool and will finish off my 331 and get it into the car with a rebuild transmission. Probably take me 4-5k to finish engine and get trans rebuilt. 8 inch rear wont be long for this world if I do that. |
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Posted: 11/23/2020 9:00:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#32]
You will do yourself a huge favor by throwing your points and condenser in your glove box and replacing it with a Pertronix unit. It is invisible to the outside.
ETA: I see you picked an HEI. Good choice. 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/25/2020 2:52:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#33]
Working on late night epoxy of the terlingua badges.
Nearly perfect til a tiny drop of epoxy hit the paint and smudged the left one. Will try to strip it then make a new mask to repaint area I strip. Otherwise fuck it I will cut a new one. Under 1mm of epoxy it should have a fair amount of depth once I have them finished.  Started working on what will be the center caps for the wheels and eventually the gascap. The eyes will be machined aluminum with the tool path from surfacing being visible/jewelled. Then wi be the black and red through pulling masks.  
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Posted: 12/3/2020 7:14:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ch3no2]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Welp... I went full retard. New spindles with billet caliper mounts for massive 4 piston calipers and 13 x 1.25 inch two piece rotors. Coil overs and full new control arms along with the sub frame connectors. Be a few weeks before I can get it all installed with the new quicker ratio power steering. Will be a few months before I get the rear end and suspension to match the front. https://i.imgur.com/uTBmz9o.jpg Edit: never mind, already answered |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 4:28:59 PM EDT
[#35]
Unrelated but a small thing pedal pads for the brake pedal were still available from Ford and fairly cheap.
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Posted: 12/4/2020 1:44:14 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By whiskerz: Unrelated but a small thing pedal pads for the brake pedal were still available from Ford and fairly cheap. Hahaha I just did one of those in my 74 truck. I’m always amazed at how new carpet and a stereo install makes a cab feel so much more homey |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/4/2020 2:00:48 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By whiskerz: Unrelated but a small thing pedal pads for the brake pedal were still available from Ford and fairly cheap. It will be addressed arou d the same time as I address an issue with brake travel and brake light switch. The brake is about 2 inches too high now for where the master cylinder pushes it back to return. I need an adjustable stop to prevent it from being whot upwards and banging against the dash reinforcement every time you take your foot off the brake. This violent stop also has a habit of making the brake switch rotate in such a way that it doesnt want to activate. A zip tie on brake switch keeping it in line will stop that along with a new brake switch that hopefully fits tighter to pedal/pushrod assembly. Car came back from alignment. Settings we were able to hit right off the lift were - 1 7/8deg camber on one side and - 1 5/8deg camber on other side. I wanted 1.5 and that is what car is set to. We got toe dead straight on the lift and I had shop dial in 1/16 toe. Caster was 2 deg positive coming off the lift. I had it set to 5 degrees. This car is stable at 90mph already and dives into a corner like nobody's business. Once I get the 3 link rear the car is gonna be insane. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2020 8:29:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#38]
Got to take the car on one of my favorite "on the way to work" on ramps this morning.
Mind you I dont have my rear suspension installed, these are cold weather temps, and I am on half the tire... The 66 took the 270deg corkscrew on ramp turn at 50mph. The 95cobra and 2015 are both on relatively shitty NT555s and generally are 50-55mph for the turn during warm months. Nittos and the wider rear tires(315s on 95 and 305s on 2015) may lend themselves to those cars wanting to understeer more. Meanwhile the 66 on a square tire setup just wants to stick and continue to turn in. No complaints from the tires or weirdness. The car is going to be a beast once I can get the 3 link installed and push towards 245 or 275 wide tires on all four corners. Soon these will be appropriate.  Driving it in the cold sucks because there is a vent in the heater box stuck open. New heater box, defroster vents, and dash pad are on the way. Shpuld be able to install them this weekend. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/14/2020 2:56:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#39]
Continuing with quality of life improvements inside the car.
Test fitting a rear package tray for 6x9s in custom 3D printed mounts. Suede-like headliner material inbound which will be used to cover the package tray and mount the 6x9s. Testing the sound it is really sounding pretty decent. Once the seat goes back in I may even get a tiny bit of bass.  Test fitting new black dash pad because my heater box is a mess of rusted doors and decomposing heater vents. Driving to work in the morning reveals a giant freezing cold draft from the passenger side(cleanout door rusted open and other issues) Replacing all that shit with a new box and heater core. Old dash pad was red and I HATED it.   Lastly. Car is handling and braking so well it is deserving of the badges finally going on.  
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Posted: 12/14/2020 9:39:53 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Continuing with quality of life improvements inside the car. Test fitting a rear package tray for 6x9s in custom 3D printed mounts. Suede-like headliner material inbound which will be used to cover the package tray and mount the 6x9s. Testing the sound it is really sounding pretty decent. Once the seat goes back in I may even get a tiny bit of bass. https://i.imgur.com/c6B2o1H.jpg Test fitting new black dash pad because my heater box is a mess of rusted doors and decomposing heater vents. Driving to work in the morning reveals a giant freezing cold draft from the passenger side(cleanout door rusted open and other issues) Replacing all that shit with a new box and heater core. Old dash pad was red and I HATED it. https://i.imgur.com/bQ2UqFg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5PO388V.jpg Lastly. Car is handling and braking so well it is deserving of the badges finally going on. https://i.imgur.com/iBg4GuV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A2RWHKx.jpg Lookin’ good You’re putting all kinds of nutso ideas in my head
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Posted: 12/14/2020 9:52:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ch3no2]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: It will be addressed arou d the same time as I address an issue with brake travel and brake light switch. The brake is about 2 inches too high now for where the master cylinder pushes it back to return. I need an adjustable stop to prevent it from being whot upwards and banging against the dash reinforcement every time you take your foot off the brake. This violent stop also has a habit of making the brake switch rotate in such a way that it doesnt want to activate. A zip tie on brake switch keeping it in line will stop that along with a new brake switch that hopefully fits tighter to pedal/pushrod assembly. Car came back from alignment. Settings we were able to hit right off the lift were - 1 7/8deg camber on one side and - 1 5/8deg camber on other side. I wanted 1.5 and that is what car is set to. We got toe dead straight on the lift and I had shop dial in 1/16 toe. Caster was 2 deg positive coming off the lift. I had it set to 5 degrees. This car is stable at 90mph already and dives into a corner like nobody's business. Once I get the 3 link rear the car is gonna be insane. Power steering assist? +5* caster is a bunch. My car is manual steering. I was shooting for +3* caster, I wound up at +2.8 (passenger side) and +3* (driver side). Low speed (parking lots, etc) is tolerable. It had 3/16 toe, I backed that off to 1/8. All that, along with equalizing the negative camber side-to-side and it drives much better. With OE-style control arms (shims) and strut rods I’m not going to get it any closer. This car accelerates HARD. With the front end all ironed out it goes much straighter when most of its weight is transferred onto the rear tires  |
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Posted: 12/14/2020 10:05:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ch3no2]
[#42]
On your stereo/sound system... where are you putting the receiver?
I hope you don’t have to cut that virgin dash. Your car and my car may be two of the last that were NOT butchered over the years  Attached File |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/14/2020 10:41:18 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: On your stereo/sound system... where are you putting the receiver? I hope you don’t have to cut that virgin dash. Your car and my car may be two of the last that were NOT butchered over the years https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/277622/C337D863-CD85-48AD-AF25-295BA4FDEF8D_jpe-1730388.JPG Headunit mounted in glovebox in a 3d print. Will build custom glovebox at some point but not worth it yet |
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Posted: 12/14/2020 10:42:37 AM EDT
[#44]
Looking great!
I had this little gem show up last weekend. I know what I'll be working on during the Christmas break! 
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Posted: 12/14/2020 11:37:30 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT: Looking great! I had this little gem show up last weekend. I know what I'll be working on during the Christmas break! https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1491/pACQDf.jpg Nice Ratio? Axles (splines)? |
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Posted: 12/14/2020 11:40:24 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Headunit mounted in glovebox in a 3d print. Will build custom glovebox at some point but not worth it yet Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By ch3no2: On your stereo/sound system... where are you putting the receiver? I hope you don’t have to cut that virgin dash. Your car and my car may be two of the last that were NOT butchered over the years https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/277622/C337D863-CD85-48AD-AF25-295BA4FDEF8D_jpe-1730388.JPG Headunit mounted in glovebox in a 3d print. Will build custom glovebox at some point but not worth it yet Cool. I’d need to reconfigure it to fit a head unit, but my ignition and electronics are mounted behind the glove box door. I have a wideband O2 setup on the way so I have to put that controller box in there somewhere
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Posted: 12/14/2020 1:01:58 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Nice Ratio? Axles (splines)? From Quick Performance F9C-LLR Ford 9" Complete Center Section / Third Member Gear Ratio: 3.50 Carrier Options: 28 Eaton Truetrac - $546.00 Pinion Support: Nodular Iron Daytona - $110.00 Yoke: Short Narrow 1310 It's going into my Lincoln Versailles housing and at the same time I'm removing the Versailles disc system (sucks really bad) and installing SN95 rear disc system. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/14/2020 2:57:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Cool. I’d need to reconfigure it to fit a head unit, but my ignition and electronics are mounted behind the glove box door. I have a wideband O2 setup on the way so I have to put that controller box in there somewhere If you get a digital media unit and ditch the CD player portion then you wind up with a tiny unit that while DIN size on height and width, the actual depth of the unit is less than 4 inches and it weighs next to nothing. I got a kenwood unit with a remote so when I run with the glovebox door down it is easy to change files/volume. Try to hit around 20w RMS and you will have more than enough volume to drown out road noise or exhaust unless you are running cutouts or race mufflers. |
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Posted: 12/14/2020 11:30:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ch3no2]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: If you get a digital media unit and ditch the CD player portion then you wind up with a tiny unit that while DIN size on height and width, the actual depth of the unit is less than 4 inches and it weighs next to nothing. I got a kenwood unit with a remote so when I run with the glovebox door down it is easy to change files/volume. Try to hit around 20w RMS and you will have more than enough volume to drown out road noise or exhaust unless you are running cutouts or race mufflers. Hooking up the rear deck and everything in the car sounds quite good. Uploaded video clip to instagram Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Cool. I’d need to reconfigure it to fit a head unit, but my ignition and electronics are mounted behind the glove box door. I have a wideband O2 setup on the way so I have to put that controller box in there somewhere If you get a digital media unit and ditch the CD player portion then you wind up with a tiny unit that while DIN size on height and width, the actual depth of the unit is less than 4 inches and it weighs next to nothing. I got a kenwood unit with a remote so when I run with the glovebox door down it is easy to change files/volume. Try to hit around 20w RMS and you will have more than enough volume to drown out road noise or exhaust unless you are running cutouts or race mufflers. Hooking up the rear deck and everything in the car sounds quite good. Uploaded video clip to instagram Nice 👍 My car is SO loud, I’d need to amplify any speakers I mount. I could put amps in the trunk, I’m just not sure I want to add that much weight. My car is rather singular in purpose Pretty much everything is built/tuned around vision-blurring acceleration and not so much for cruising
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2020 2:37:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: uglygun]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ch3no2: Nice 👍 My car is SO loud, I’d need to amplify any speakers I mount. I could put amps in the trunk, I’m just not sure I want to add that much weight. My car is rather singular in purpose Pretty much everything is built/tuned around vision-blurring acceleration and not so much for cruisingMy 95 Cobra has headers/offroadpipe/flowmasters and even with the windows down at 110+ I can hear my factory speakers above all that noise. I do have the stock "Mach460" amps running to the speakers but it isnt terribly louder than what I have set up in my 66 right now. Around 20 watts RMS per channel really is a pretty decent amount of power. |
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