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Posted: 10/17/2017 3:22:54 PM EDT
I have an 05 ranger that crapped out the CV joint on the front driveshaft (transfer case side...the front dif side is a standard U-Joint). It was the OEM part and lasted 140k. I replaced it with a new generic Chinese made one from 1A Auto (link below). It failed within 500 miles, tearing the rubber boot and spilling out all of the grease. Install is really straightforward, and I’ve watched several YouTube videos to ensure I wasn’t missing something not blatantly obvious. Any trick to these things that I could have messed up, or did I get a bad part?  They’re sending me a new one overnight...and I asked the customer service rep if they have an unusually high number of returns on these, of which he checked and stated that they do not. I’ll try this one more time before finding a Motorcraft part # and getting raped by the dealer parts counter I guess.

https://www.1aauto.com/front-driveshaft-rear-cv-joint-rebuild-kit/i/1atrx00026

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Link Posted: 10/17/2017 7:45:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Just a bad part, I replaced one that was damaged in an accident recently. I actually took it to a local u joint shop and they cut out the cv joint and replaced it with a u joint then balanced everything. Worked perfectly, but they are a simple install and either work normal or as in your case are defective.
Link Posted: 10/17/2017 7:57:49 PM EDT
[#2]
It seems every Chinese cv shaft I've seen last a few months tops.
Guys I work  with install them on every thing and dont last.
I reboot if joints are good or replace joint with oe.I guess you gave old axel as a core?

Just reread,front drive shaft,get oe parts and throw that in trash
Link Posted: 10/17/2017 9:59:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Anyone have a lead on a motorcraft part number and price?  Local dealers in El Paso are scam artists. Any good places to buy factory parts online?  The replacement they’re sending me was free and so was shipping, so I’m going to give it a shot. If it craps out again I’ll go with a Ford part.
Link Posted: 10/17/2017 11:05:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Rockauto has most Motorcraft parts and Motorcraft has an online catalog. Rockauto has tied themselves to a large Motorcraft seller here in Ga. If not call Bleakly Ford here in Ga. and ask for Bobby. He has treated me good for almost 30 years.
Link Posted: 10/19/2017 12:36:05 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Rockauto has most Motorcraft parts and Motorcraft has an online catalog. Rockauto has tied themselves to a large Motorcraft seller here in Ga. If not call Bleakly Ford here in Ga. and ask for Bobby. He has treated me good for almost 30 years.
View Quote
They only have a Dorman part...which is the same Chinese junk as the one I bought for a few bucks cheaper from 1A Auto. The Dana part listed does not look correct...at least the photo they used. I’ll have to stop by the stealership to get the part number for a motorcraft part and just search for that I guess.


ETA...FML. Looks like Ford does not sell just the CV Joint...and they make you buy the entire front shaft...even though it’s held on with a simple c clip and splines. Motorcraft part #XL2Z-4A376-AA. If any of you ford dealership buys can confirm I’d be appreciative

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Link Posted: 10/27/2017 4:06:58 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Just a bad part, I replaced one that was damaged in an accident recently. I actually took it to a local u joint shop and they cut out the cv joint and replaced it with a u joint then balanced everything. Worked perfectly, but they are a simple install and either work normal or as in your case are defective.
View Quote
One thing to keep in mind is in an '05 that shaft is always turning.  An older 98-01ish truck with vacuum hubs that shaft is only turning when the hubs are locked in (provided they work and actually lock in)

A u-jointed shaft may not like running all the time with the angles.

IMO it would be tempting to get out a tape measure and see how long your driveshaft is and compare with an older truck in a JY that has a u-joint shaft.  If the length and mounting is compatible throw new crosses at and see how it goes.  Transmission lengths shouldn't have changed much but I don't know how engine placement vs front differential placement changed thru the years.

I have been all thru the powertrain on my Ranger once and am gearing to swap the front axle, trans and t-case... but she is old enough to have manual lockouts and regular u-joints.
Link Posted: 10/27/2017 10:08:44 PM EDT
[#7]
One thing I did notice is if I clamp the boot into the groove on the driveshaft, the part of the boot inside of the cv joint is pressed up against the bearing carrier. It’s sharp too. I think the boot on the aftermarket part is too long, so on this second one I clamped it past the groove to stretch it a bit forward. So far 300 miles and it looks fine. The last one only lasted 100 miles when installed like the factory part should be. The factory cv boot was too far gone to compare the two for length. I’ll keep an eye one it but the part has a lifetime warranty and it takes all of 40 mins to swap out.
Link Posted: 11/15/2017 2:36:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Quick update...no issues with the second CV joint thus far.
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