So I pulled the right front halfshaft to replace a CV Boot.  Now the shaft won't slip back in place and the NIB halfshaft I bought doesn't slip up onto the rotor either.  All I did was change the portal hub fluid, removed the back cover to inspect to ensure it has the 2 tooth star washer lock rings, then re-installed the back cover.  I tried turning the steering wheel all the way to the right to try to make the maximum gap between hub and rotor but no joy. The inner lip on the end cup is hanging up on the rotor.  

When I pulled the shaft it about fell out of position except for pulling the splined end.

I'm at my wits end.

Have you tried eating in a HMMWV? Its not bad in armor

Hmm... I've only had one of my shafts off to replace a diff output seal and only had it off on the diff side. Didn't have any issue getting it back on however.

Is your NIB one definitely genuine AMG? I could swear I've seen posts from people talking about the aftermarket ones being too long.



Now that is how you drink and drive! Is Russian tradition!

Though, should be vodka to really get in the spirit.

In other news, I'm getting quite excited about the new 5 ton! Been doing some reading and it looks like it's pretty easy to make some decent power with the Cummins (unlike a certain GM engine... ). Need to get a pyrometer and boost gauge ASAP. I'll probably get another ISSPro like I've got in my HMMWV. I really like the combined gauge.

I wound up using a floor jack to lift the portal hub slightly, just 10 pumps of the handle increased the gap by 3/4" 20mm.   The 2 videos on BoobTube make it look like a simple 10 min task.    If I had known I would have just enclosed the new boot and bands with the extra parts sold with the truck.

After months of having the geared turret ring  taking up flor space in my garage, I finally installed it. Still waiting on the hand crank brackets from Greg and the spacers for the turret lock from Mac Motors. Hopefully those will show up in the next week or so. Was a little difficult to install by myself but it's done.

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Hand crank adapter came in. This is one of the best upgrades I've done. Son loves it.

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Im 33 and a vet with alot of time in the electric opgk.  

Id probably get 5 full minutes of utter glee out of spinning that turret with the crank.  


Sticking a mile marker 10,500lb hydraulic winch on the back of my truck very soon.  Gathering parts has been a sharp learning curve, i ended up with a pile of parts that dont work together including a front winch, rear bracket, Warn fairlead.  

After two weeks of back and forth with MM and ebay, im managing to swap motors on winch to make it correct for use in rear, got the right fairlead that actually fits, and fixed a bent rear mountiing bracket.  

MM is supplying a few unobtainable brackets to mount the remote control valve (overtop cadillac and tdm) and wiring harness for the controller.  Theyre pretty helpful but they wont get back to you unless you call them and get answers on the phone.  Email is like an invitation to ignore you hardcore.  

Word of warning:  if you have an ecv truck you can forget mounting a MM winch on the front without making your own bracket.  I considered just that but the stock “winch” plate bumper seems flimsy and is only designed for smaller warn winches, as is.  

The correct MM bracket takes place of the amg bumper and has a beefy bottom section to mount winch to and also to tie it all in to the lower front control arm bolt.  The stock setup just uses the flat bumper and has hard to find brackets that stretch from control arm to frame extensions.  No direct tie in to the bumper plate.  

Ill post pics in a few weeks when all of this is done.  I need the winch operation asap to help pull an lmtv into my shop.  It “should” work.

Aguas that is why I haven't done the rear winch as there are a lot of different parts and all do not interchange. I would like to do a basic electric in the rear as the Hydrologic MM in the front is great but don't want to push my luck with two. Just need to source all the brackets.

On a progress note, I had another member on Facebook make me the bracket for the rear Ibis Tek Light bar on the hatch and duplicate the front set and duplicate the front search lights mount. Hoping for stronger on the light bar and spare on the side lights. Should be done anytime and then that is one part completely done that has taken a long time to source.

Great success.  

Took a good month of parts scraping and an initial purchase of a bunch of parts that didnt work together.  And i managed to sell the Warn fairlead that came in that parts bundle, that forced me to buy a nos MM fairlead for too much $.  

Not sure if i mentioned, but i managed to find a NOS motor that turned my front MM 10,500lb winch into a rear winch, using control valves located up on the cowl instead of all the way back on the winch.  Otherwise, your 24’ of extra hydraulic hose becomes a permanent part of the power steering system and thats just ridiculous.  With remote valves, the way its intended, the long runs are only open to the rest of the system while winching.  

I had winch and long hoses mounted and ready to go by this past thursday, planned to finish over the weekend.  But friday when my final parts came in i found a hose i meant to reuse had the wrong damn fitting.  One more trip to the hydraulic place and i was in business.  Gotta love the screw in fittings on these.  

Fyi, the stock MM remote is on way too short of a cord to actually do anything while your rear winch is turning.  I had another 10’ of 3 conductor SJO laying around so i took the remote apart and spliced it on.  Not as pretty as replacing the entire length of cord but i wasnt about to take the cannon plug end apart.  Ive had enough of that.  





I mounted the remote receptacle just like the TM suggests, drilled out right beside the fuel filter housing.  Even placed the ridiculous warning decal on just because.  Pretty pointless, isnt it?  “Dont use the winch unless you need a winch”.  Okay!  Thanks?  



I had to go direct with MM to get these funny little brackets to mount the remote valve business.  Had to drill a bunch of holes to mount, then routed a bunch of hoses.  The one that runs under was the old one i reused that used to connect booster and steering.  Holy crap was it stuck on the steering end.  Bout had to remove the alternator to get a good run at it.  



The bracket hangs a few inches lower than the rear frame crossmember, and sticks out toward the bumper.  Does it cut down on departure angle?  Yes.  Do i care?  No.  Its not nearly as noticeable as id thought it would be.  

Hey HMMWV crew, when it comes to basic maintenance and service, what kind of lifts/jack stands are you all using?  Anything crazy heavy duty or basic automotive grade stuff?

I don't know what they are using but this is rather dramatic.

I've got a couple Harbor Freight 3 ton jacks (one regular height, one low profile), the 3 ton jack stands (not the recalled ones ), and some chunks of 6x6 wood for cribbing as needed and they've always served me well.

Hopefully sometime before the end of Summer I'll have a 9,000lb 2 post lift up and running.


I have that jack and love it.

My use has never been so dramatic though.

I use 15 or 20 ton air over hydraulic jacks.

I am also using a Harbor Freight Jack and two 6 ton Big Red Jack stands. Preferred the 6 ton jack stands over the smaller ones for more height and piece of mind on the weight. But I have been debating some of the Bosch Jack Stands that pop up on ebay from time to time.

Saturday Aguas came up from KY and we drove up in my van to the Findlay MV Show. We had a good time!

Definitely seemed like more vehicles up there this year than when we went up in 2019. Also more HMMWV representation in terms of vehicles in attendance and parts.

We're both hoping to actually drive our trucks up for next year. We just need to get rid of our highway speed bounce, his occasional and my persistent at 55+, which makes for an uncomfortable mostly highway 2.5 hour drive from my place.

Had the opportunity to meet Lionel Van, whom some of you may know from some of the FB groups, had a nice collection of GMV parts sadly at market price. Was cool to see some of the parts in person though.

I scored an H1 factory receiver hitch (just the receiver hitch) for $50, marked down from $200 as the seller didn't want to have to load it. Didn't need it since I've already got one but since it's been discontinued, I couldn't pass up having a spare at that price. Also got a set of the large reflective Euro delineators for the 5 ton.

Once I get them uploaded tonight, I'll post some pics I took.

Thank you for the replies regarding tools, everyone.


Follow up question- I'm planning on picking up a M998 Two man with the GEP and 4 Speed for $10k.  It needs some wrenching, but hopefully it's all stuff I can figure out.  I'm looking to convert it into a 4 door setup, don't really care about the top situation, hard/soft/helmet/slant/etc.  What's the best (most economical) way to go about converting it?  

I'm seeing prices all over the map.  $2-4k for 4 seats/seatbelts, and supports for the rear, $2-6k for a top/pillars/doors.  Is there a better/cheaper way to get this done or am I much better off buying one already setup as a 4 door?

Again, any help is appreciated!

You sure it has the 4 speed for a $10k price tag? The 998 didn't come with one so it would have had to have been added and that seems like a cheap price tag.

As to converting it, Breton Industries was the only source for current manufacture 4 man kits which included everything needed, however, they've discontinued sales to the general public. I believe there are companies out there reselling their products now but I'm not sure who all is. I think there may have been a link to one of those retailers posted a couple pages ago. Their kit included most everything for a 4 man soft top setup except, I think the seat belts and seats, both of which are pretty easy to find.

The seats, assuming you want high backs like most people, are going to be in the $200 range each. There were some selling cheaper at Findlay. There's also some aftermarket seat options like Mastercraft if you don't mind not having OE military seats.

As Ryan said I would double check to make sure it really is a 4-speed.

As for tops, prices all over the place. Expect to spend $3k plus for a new complete soft top and expect to spend $12 to $15K for a hardtop and that's for everything. Of course you could slowly buy pieces as they come available and save alot, but that takes time.

I will say hard top is nice as I'll never have to replace it like a soft top. Kinda a buy once cry once type thing. But prices when I got mine where way different than today.

Thanks guys, I did more digging and I was wrong, it is a 3 speed.  It looks like the smart move here is to get an already prepped 4 door, given the costs with the top/seats.  I appreciate the input, it looks like the golden age of surplus HMMWV parts at cheap auction prices has passed.

Thanks again!

Sadly I think it's gotten to that point around 2019 and is getting worse. I'd say 2017-2018 was peak salad days on parts.

If you want to post an idea on budget and what you're looking for in a truck, we can keep our eyes open for you. I know I'm going through the various FB groups multiple times a day.

At Findlay, Lionel Van did have a couple GMVs listed for sale. They'll already be set up as 4 man and will have the 4 speed. No idea on condition otherwise. Aguas says he had them listed at $18,000. So if you're interested, you might want to get in touch with him.

If i didnt' have a truck and still knew all that I know---I would be interested in an A2 (4 speed) gen GMV like ryan mentioned, and I'm pretty sure those are good prices for a2 GMVs still.  Now they are gonna be steel top with turret hole in some form of demil, missing c pillar and turret support/turret bearings because the government considers spinney turret things to be scary and we cant have that.  also apparently hardtops are scary?  so they have to gank the c pillar so that us dirty plebs can't have a functional hardtop without scrounging for the parts.


The foremost thing I would be after if I needed a truck for the first time, would be a m1152 from auction.  Turbo engine, 4 speed trans, and some have AC.  Bad thing is you're still stuck converting to a 4 man and you have to play the auction game, expecting to have a project.  

For turnkey, probably be after a m1123 or m1097a2 (softop a2 gens in either 2 man or 4 man condition).  Many of these got out and have been in civy hands for a few years already, so many are liable to be in 4 man softtop mode already.  Yeah you don't have a turbo but you have the 4 speed and the truck would be complete and titled and no waiting for the auction EUC to clear for 6-12 months or more.  



Findlay show was cool.  I scored a replacement front seat base with the newer vinyl upholstery.  my original 1994 seat base had rusted apart a bit and the up/down feature no longer worked.  and the canvas was torn/rotten and stained.  only cost $100 so i'd call that a win.  Someone could still use my old base so I'll be looking to sell it.  its completely serviceable and slides forward/back just fine.  but the height is cemented for a tall person, which was fine for me.  

@SmartDrug as Ryan suggested, post a budget and we can be on the look out to help you join the club of HMMWV ownership. I think the best deals out there are on the second hand market and not the auctions. My buddy locally got a 4 door complete that had been gone over for right under $14K delivered to his driveway. There are always guys jumping in and out of the hobby and selling stuff on Facebook, Craigslist, and on the military vehicle forums.

This weekend I gotta pull 18000 lbs of LMTV up the driveway and push/pull it into the shop.  so i figure a towbar designed for a 7 ton should do it  kit came with three sets of adaptors to fit humvees, 2.5/5 tons, and 7 tons.  its pretty beefy, no question about that.  

no question about pulling, but for pushing i'm not sure if the shorter humvee will do it with this bar.  attachment points are 18'' off and i'm worried the humvee will just get pushed down.  we shall see.

had a pic of the bar fully assembled but imgur kept failing to upload it.  i think maybe their site thinks its a gun.  Dirty Commies.



Finally got it to work today.  

Budget is fairly open, would like to stay under $20k, ideally.  I'm not hung up on keeping it period correct, nor keeping it to milspecs as far as the type of seats, etc.  I'm basically looking for a fun truck that can fit the family for short outings (few hundred miles), camping trips, etc.  I'm pretty open on the types of doors, tops, etc.  But need 4 seats, and a truck bed, so no wagons/helmets/slants, ideally.  Being able to do 60+ mph is a big plus, too.  I'm pretty mechanically saavy, but would not be up for an engine swap or that level of task, at least not right off the bat, but doing the portal axle service, painting, replacing seats, etc. is all fine.  Any other advice or suggestions, throw it by me!  Thanks guys!

LMTV towing went well.  It was only like 160 feet of actual distance rolled, but there were two tight turns and one of them was a three point turn.  Alooooot of unhooking, repositioning, rehooking, changing sides, getting stuck.  It took hours of trying and thinking and it was an awful experience.  Having 5 acres is useless when your driveway is long and skinny and everything is hard to maneuver.  




I'm trying to get a low profile heavy transmission lift for the LMTV so I can remove the allison and TC as one 1700lb piece.  I've tracked down a Meyer unit that has an additional cradle built specifically for removing that from FMTVs.  Its $$$ but I like the peace of mind on an otherwise daunting task that I wish I didn't have to do in the first place.  


In the meantime I had new style A arm bushings for the humvee, and three months ago ryan and I went in on a simple Puller designed to pull bushings from humvees/h1s.  Id never replaced any of the suspension parts on the rear, so I started there.  All new shocks, radius arms, ball joints and bushings.  The front will still need new bushings as I replaced everything else a few years ago.

The puller is just a grade 8 bolt that looks like it came from the bolt bin at tractor supply, with a nut and several machined steel parts.  It wasn't cheap either but Its gotta be cheaper than trying to have a shop do it 16x.  



Not the best pic of an upper A arm jammed in my 20 ton press to keep it from wiggling away.  Before I figured that out I was trying to use a 1" impact driver to turn and pull these bitches out, it wouldn't budge.  I set my 3/4" drive bar on it, and still nothing.  Finally i got the arm held in place on the press, put a 4' cheater bar on the breakdown bar and it began to move.  Now that I knew how to use the puller the bushings swap is easy as can be, the only hard part is getting the A arms off in the first place.  The first corner took me most of a work day, and I was frustrated and done.  The passenger rear took about 2.5 hours since I knew the order to dismantle things in and didn't get anything bound up/didn't have to figure out the puller.  I'll tackle the front ones this week after memorial day if I have time.







I tried my damndest to make the new radius arms (moog replacements for AMG stock ones) the same length as old, but the Moog tie rod end is a different design than stock, and this threw things off quite a bit.  I had so much toe in on the rear that I think the tire trajectories crisscrossed each other before passing the front end of the truck.  I eyeballed them straight, drove the truck up and down to help things settle after being off the ground and started figuring out how to do a string alignment.  

Took forever to get my string rectangle true to the truck, but once I did it was smooth sailing.  In the future, I'll make it so the string all but touches the most proud point of the sidewalls, get the wheels straight to each other and then make the front toe in and rear toe out from there.  I think it'll go alot faster and there wont be so much measuring to do.




Only had time to get out to Lowes and back afterwards, but the truck seems to be much better on the road.  I'm hoping the front eliminates most of the wobble/bounce I've almost always had that balancing seems to not affect.  The old bushings were too short to fill the brackets and alot of them were no longer centered.

So are you able to replace the bushings without taking the entire a arm off?

you could do the top arm I'm sure, but at that point you're just fighting the 4 bolts at the balljoint.  And if you have really badly stuck bushings its going to suck working in a cramped spot.

lower arm, I'm sure you can as well but you'd have to remove the shock and spring, and with the hub attached to it its still a nightmare getting the tension off of the arm to allow the a arm bolts to come out easily.  


I think the second time I replaced everything (ball joints, radius arm, shock) and bushings, it took me 2.5 hours from start to finish.  over twice that the first time with lots of cussing.  It was so much easier with removing the hub.  

Be a good time to inspect hub stuff too, right there on your bench.

Pulling the Transmission/Transfer case from the LMTV is going to take some specialized equipment. That bastard IS HEAVY, "tippy" and has no real places to strap/crib to a conventional Transmission Jack....Dropping it down with a winch from above isn't easy either, and not really possible without removing the stuff above it.
I haven't pulled one out in several years, but do remember it not being fun, and when it's on the Stand, it's a large and ungainly unit.
Unless you're replacing it with another trans, it'll have to go to an Allison (Detroit Diesel) Dealer for repairs which will not be cheap!  That said, we've only seen a couple failures that required removal.

Wrong Relays in the right sockets; Half the system is 12V and the other 24V and you'd be astounded how many times 24V relays are put in where there's only 12 volts.  Check Circuit Breakers for correct amperage too.
Wiring pinched/broken, Cannon Plugs loose/wires pulled put/broken.
Dash Controllers.
Obvious burned/contaminated Fluid. (Synthetic)

For any hub, CV Shaft, or suspension work REMOVED THE GEARED HUB ASSEMBLY.  It's easy and routine: Take the plug out of the top to access the 3/8" Bolt that retains the CV shaft.  Pull the cotter pins through the top. bottom, and tie rod, put a Bottle Jack under it with a little tension, then a couple thwacks with a hefty Ball-Peen Hammer at the edge where the tapered stems pass through the Hub body and it'll pop loose. Oh, and don't forget to disconnect the Vent line & Loop Strap before hand. When the top joint pops out, the upper control arm will spring up (supposed to) and the hub will drop down when the bottom one comes off (Bottle jack will keep it from hitting the ground, and you can use the jack to raise the hub back into the lower joint when putting it back together)
Don't worry about screwing up the alignment, it'll be fine (unless something's worn out) and on a side note; check the steering idler on the Commanders side for wear, they fail a lot.

Im after a meyer ttj-3 jack with a cradle designed for this transmission.  Theyre too much new and half that used.  The specific cradle is an extra $325 or so.   But even if i sell it afterwards i like the advantage

I just need to get to the flexplates and flywheel.  Bolts backed out and got grinded to pieces before i figured it out.  Part of a flexplate got sheared off as well, small bits that are welded to the outer radius of the plate.  

Transmission itself is fine as far as i know.  

Ive read some guys preferred to pull the engine instead in this case but im still convinced dropping the trans is the best route.  

My biggest concern is why?  Why the hell did they turn out?  The truck didnt seem to vibrate badly.  It rode smooth and straight.  

I dropped the shafts off to be balanced just in case, and i noticed my engine mount rubber is cracking despite not looking dryrotted.  

Its a 2003 with like 6000 miles on the odo and a 2012 red river depot rebuild, maybe they didnt torque the bolts right.  Although they only call for like 36 ft lbs.

I have witnessed first hand RRAD's work and workers and they could fuck up a wet dream....no telling WTF they did or didn't do.
I've R&R'd dozens of Engines and I'd do one over a Transmission any day.
IIRC the Flywheel/flexplate is a stacked set of sheet metal Disks and only available through Cat. (unless you locate surplus which would be MUCH cheaper)  There are a couple bell housing bolts that are a bitch, but other than that it's nothing more that the tedious tasks of disconnecting things like exhaust, cooling. fuel, etc. But you will need an overhead capable of carrying 2,000 pounds....big trucks are bigger problems, needing bigger tools, and larger budgets.

IF you can get or fabricate the Transmission cradle and have a heavy duty (true 2 or 3 thousand pound capacity) Transmission Jack, then yea, I suppose it would be less a hassle since you're really just disconnecting the electrical connections, dropping the Drive shafts, and the dozen or so housing Bolts (make SURE they're the correct ones) Dip-stick, exhaust, mounts & crossmembers.....could roll it back far enough to access the Flywheel, and on the Right side there should be an access window for the converter bolts.
I'm not positive, but in the back of the -24 manual there MIGHT be design plans for making that Transmission cradle...I've seen prints for all sorts of specialty tools/jigs that aren't too difficult to make and save you from injury and parts/equipment from damage.

@SmartDrug

A couple decent options have come up on the groups.

1097A2


1123


The 1097 is cheaper and has working AC but the 1123, even though it's more expensive, has a few nice upgrades to it though no AC.

Personally I'd be leaning towards the 1097 since it's got AC.

Thank you very much!

I would be all over that 1097.

That’s what I’m aiming at, I don’t have FB but am waiting for the wife’s account to get approved for clearance. If anyone has that guy’s contact info, PM me, please!

No direct contact info aside from the seller's FB profile: https://www.facebook.com/ct.san.31

Very much obliged, I found him on Craigslist and shot an email earlier.

I’m 600 miles from him, is the idea of a fly and drive crazy with a HMMWV? Is shipping the smart move?

Since it's been privately owned and ostensibly upkept, so long as it drives well (no tire bounce at highway speed like a certain truck in my garage ), I don't see why you couldn't. You should be able to cruise at 70 no problem. Just make sure you've got a good set of headphones (preferably noise canceling) and a way to wire up a 12v plug to keep your phone charged if the owner didn't already install one.

But this is also coming from the guy who was willing to drive a HEMTT 1200 miles home if I won it.

Lol, thank you again!

I’ve made a very similar distance/location trip with a rock crawler LJ a couple years back. I love trips like that. Ear pro, solid playlist, doors off, fun.

I’ll keep you all posted, but that one looks like a winner to me!

The dumbest thing i've done with a "new" truck is drive a 1970 "duce" "doose" "duece" deuce and a half 2 hours down I-75 from cincinnati on some old michelins that are renowned for exploding even on a good day.

Then the guy I sold that truck to drove it home to Indiana 7 hours (against my advice) and made it without issue.

I say ship it, you never know what could happen until you've checked hubs and know if there are any leaks, etc.  Owners will say stuff like "its always been fine" without knowing whats really in the gearboxes.

It's been a while since I posted, but I pretty much check in every day.  Just haven't had anything worthy to say.
But I've started back in on some of the upgrades and they include painting.  I know that @Ryan_Ruck, @jake-cutter, and @Aguas, you guys have done complete CARC coatings on yours.  From what I remember and rereading though things here you used the 2 part Type II CARC.  When I went to the Sherwin Williams site it also had a one part Type IV CARC.  Was wondering if this was available when you acquired your CARC or is it something new?  Would make things easier as a one part.  If it was available is there a reason you didn't use it?
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I believe the Type IV is indeed fairly new. So far as I know, the Type 2 and Type 9 were really the only ones in use. They also have, IIRC, the Type IV in a spray can.

The only issue I can think of with it is how you'd go about thinning it. Obviously with the Type 2 waterborne you can just use distilled water which let's you get a nice, smooth finish with the flatness of CARC (and gives you better bang for the buck with a fairly expensive paint). Not sure what this stuff needs but SW can probably provide an answer.

Soooooo...

I've got the idiot idea to buy a HMMWV. I was hoping to be able to bid on the latest M1165s that were listed, but GovPlanet didn't like my address/phone number, so I spent the morning on hold with them.

And now I have to do a SAM check? Seem legit?

Any opinions on the M1165? I want one of the more modern ones, 1151 or better, I think.

This may be of some help with CARC Paint:
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Not sure what the SAM check is, that must be something new since I bought my truck. Haven't bought anything from them since. Maybe it helps expedite the EUC? Any recent buyers able to shed any light?

As for 1165 or 1151, I say either of those would be great. Even better if it's an A1 REV truck. It's really hard to go wrong with an ECV or REV truck. Once you get to that level, you're basically just talking some improvements in the newer REV trucks, the driveline is mostly the same (exception being the liquid cooled transfer case in the REV). Both should have hard tops and AC which are definitely nice.

Regardless of which you go with, a TD with 4 speed is really the most driveable form of the truck though even the A2 with the 4 speed is more driveable than the 3 speed trucks. The only downside of the A2 and up trucks is they're sprung with armor in mind so the ride will be a tad stiff without all that weight. There's fairly affordable aftermarket springs to fix that though if it's an issue.


I wish someone would have shared that with Red River before they painted my 5 ton.

There's been a big push on "Corrosion prevention" in the last few months; Hell, even I had to take the on-line Course on it and I no longer wrench or paint.  

Sherwin Williams also offers "DTM" which is Direct To Metal, which is water based, very easy to apply and clean up, is very durable, NON TOXIC (CARC is/was nasty, deadly stuff) and comes in all the favorite Military Pastels. Matches well, but lays flat, not the sandpaper like finish of carc.

Which 5 ton do you have?  I've had two M923's: one with the original 240hp 855 series Cummins and the other with the 8.3 and Super Singles.
I know where there's a M927 that went through the "re-set" program (total factory overhaul) has the winch, but the Box doesn't Fold-Down and is so long you could land a Plane on it.

Hes got a pretty nice 923a2 that I kick myself for not buying over an LMTV.  The extra axle scared me off.  But the 923 looks like a pretty simple beast to work on in everything but size.  

I gotta make it back up there to go test drive it.  If hes not careful I'm gonna sneak in and start prepping it for paint.  It'll look 5 years old with a little rust cleanup on corners and edges and a new coat of the water based stuff.

The MTV/LMTV's are an interesting beast....I'd have one, once you get used to the way its made and operates, they aren't bad when they work, but when something goes to shit it's going to stink, and speaking of stink, the exhaust has a particularly distasteful odor of its own.
Stewart & Stevens made the early ones and they had some relation with Steyr....when they went Bankrupt, Oshkosh picked up and started making them, but they ARE NOT the same: There is interchangeability until you get into wiring, engines, and other hard parts...The models with Grove Cranes on the back for cargo loading or wreckers are a nightmare to repair, and Soldiers that try are guaranteed to FUBAR it.
Windshield Wipers never worked worth a shit and are a bitch to repair/replace.  

Just remember the water based stuff does not have the same rough/sandpaper like finish the carc paint does, I think it's really a Latex House Paint made in Camo Colors.  

Didn't check them, but the links in the Posters should be open source, not restricted or For Official Use Only.(FOUO)