I got custom 0.25" thick 7/8 length Jackrails in, all virgin no bolt holes.  My GMV 2A11C has 5/16" holes and looks like there were rectangular inside brackets with 4 holes drilled in them:
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I wanted to apply some kind of barrier between the 0.25" steel and the 6000-series aluminum hull, I thought about using roofing mastic cement but growing up doing roofing with my Pop, I can't paint a marble with that stuff without getting it all over myself, then having to use gasoline to clean the tar from my hands.  I decided to test some FlexSeal, $13.99 can, available in Black, Green and Almond Tan, I decided to test the Almond Tan to compare against CARC Tan 386 for some other applications.  One spray can gave me about 1.5 coats.
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 I'm going to hit them with a second can tomorrow before I use two jacks to lift them against the hull for me to mark the original 5/16" bolt holes, only going to drill out the two ends until I can get the 3 Bay Ammo Can Bins in, to experiment where the shoulder bolts go to allow the bins to be quickly removed for CH47 transpo.

If you want to save a few bucks, you can probably get by with the Quik Fist Tool Clamps almost 1/3rd the cost of the PacTool Clamps, you can get a pack of 4 plus two fire extinguisher and 2 misc tool brackets for about $60:
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I got my Lightweight Pioneer Tool Tray from Cuda Mike, but it is not correct for an OIF1 era GMV.+-

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What about some 1/8"-1/4" HDPE strips epoxied to the insides of the jack rails? Sheet is readily available on Amazon.

I'm using 1" HDPE for spacers for my rocker protectors where the unobtanium H1 factory mounting brackets would be.

Oh! Those look like a good alternative!

I've actually got 2 of the larger round ones for my fire extinguisher already and have been pretty impressed with them.

I have thought of two options.  Run a cable through the holes in the handles and the airlift shackles or put them in the box in the back.

Fortunately I live where people still respect others property and theft is low here.  For now at least.

I live in Ohio soooo...

Then might I suggest 3/8 cable or 1/2inch chain or perhaps a Fort Knox Gun safe bolted down in the rear.

Well I finally just decided to pull the trigger on the bed armor and divider.  Turned out OK.

I was wondering if the side armor was hardened steel and it is.  It just laughed at the HSS bits.  Had to break out the carbide bits and go slow.  Didn't put in the sound deadening plates yet.  Want to wait and coat and paint things first.  The divider is something I have wanted to do ever since I got the the truck.

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Lots of "diamonds in the rough" or projects passing through the Georgia lot now.

Yeah, I been debating stripping mine back down to a basic 4 man and selling for $17-18K and then buying up or get one of the GMV's. Have a guy interested and waiting to see. One thing I have noticed a lot is guys research prices and see them all over the place and then hone in on the $10K non runners and think its an easy project. Once you add in fees, taxes, transportation costs, and fixing all the unknowns, price goes way up.

That's probably not unreasonable.

That looks pretty sharp! I like that setup!

I really need to get my E-track installed in the bed area. I'll be able to do something similar with some board holders:



And I see someone else is a connoisseur of MFCs as well.

Do me a favor and stay off the phone when driving.  I know none of you are this dumb but still this is a reminder.

@m35ben

This happen near you?

This popped up on one of the FB groups a couple days ago.

No it was sent to me.

Gotcha. There was no mention in the group post of any phone involvement but not surprised.

The text said driver was of the phone. I don't know if it texting talking or reading.

Heads up on a handy little mod for folks running mud flaps.

These M113 cable steps bolt up perfectly and make accessing the bed a lot easier!

I had seen some pictures of them on folks trucks but apparently neglected to save them so, here's a pic from one guy's recent accident who has them installed.

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That picture still amazes me how there wasn't more damage other than the Airlift bumper and just a scratch on the body. I am assuming he did not have the outer braces on the Airlift bumper based on how it crumpled. I would like to see the damage to the other car or did he hit the center concrete median?

I was under the impression it was a self induced spin because he locked up the brakes and smacked the Jersey barrier.

Hard to say if he had the outer braces installed or not. He's got bolts there but that could just be for the mud flaps. I'm not really sure how much reinforcement those braces would add for an impact like that. I'd think they'd crumple right where the notch is.

Regardless he certainly got lucky there was no damage to the tub.

(And LOL at not knowing how to drive a non ABS vehicle. I learned to drive in a 1977 Caprice )

Thought I'd share another cool add-on I just received today.

Looks like there's a number of these surplus grab handles on the market, originally designed for the FMTVs.

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I picked up a set to mount to my D-pillars like some of the GMV bed rail setups have. I got the D-pillars a long time ago from member Lawman on here and neglected to ask Jacob, when I had him make the rest of the GMV setup, if he could also duplicate the grab handles like these:

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So these will do nicely as a substitute. I've been told they need some slight modification to correctly line up with the bed rail bolts, which isn't a surprise. I didn't expect them to be instant bolt on.

And even if you don't have D-pillars to install them on, they work well in other locations as the seller demonstrates:

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I went to check out a HMMWV last week- was considering buying it to keep the M1009 company.

Too many issues with these in WA right now. Sad too because I really wanted it.

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Good looking pair!

Just go with Montana registration.

And yet another helpful truck hack!

I had seen someone post on one of the FB groups about some side mirrors that are commonly used on buses installed on his truck, an idea he got from someone else. From what he said and the pictures he posted it looked like they had a huge FOV improvement over the stock mirrors. With my pending C-pillar and bed rail install, I thought that was appealing to improve the view down the sides and they don't look out of place on the trucks so, I went ahead and ordered a pair off eBay.

They're sold under Mirror Lite and Rosco Vision as "Double Nickle", part number 56-72. Right now there's some really cheap ones on eBay for about half what I paid for mine. (suddenly there's a bunch on there after I bought mine )

They even have a heated version under part 56-74 if you're so inclined (no idea on voltage).

The mirrors don't come with the mounts needed to install them. You can get those from Unity School Bus Parts but, a word of warning, it took me 6 weeks and 3 requests for status updates to get them. They said it was COVID induced delays but I had to drag it out of them... They were, however, responsive when I sent messages. That said, you need the 3/4" Mirror Post and 3/4" Mirror Post Cap.

So, without further delay, he's some pictures of them installed starting off with a pic of the view with my stock one.

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The passenger's side ends up mounting a little different but it works out okay.

It may be hard to tell from the pictures but, they do indeed offer a very nice improvement over the stock mirrors. You can actually keep an eye on side traffic and the fog lines at the same time and have ample views of both.

If your truck is a regular driver and you don't mind a little deviation from stock (remember, there are square framed factory mirrors!), I'd definitely recommend them!

ETA: I decided to buy a set of the heated ones after seeing just how cheap they were and regretting not getting the heated LED headlights sooner so, if anyone wants to buy my regular ones I'll eat the difference and price match those cheap ones linked above. Mirrors are spoken for.

Too hot here to enjoy a drive. Backed it out just to run it but at 104 degrees no fun to be had. Really need to look into an A/C, preferably the one the fits between the rear seats and holds ammo can on top.

There was someone on one of the groups selling some of the components. Don't know if you caught that.

Don't know if anyone needs these...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1186578574714390/permalink/3337118066327086/

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Just ordered a set of those brackets. Hard to find parts like that are why I have stayed away from the bft cpu. Now to find a cpu and start down that rabbit hole.

I contemplated grabbing the screen mount as I'm planning on swapping out my laptop mount for a BFT screen chassis and mount I can stick a tablet in. I think the setup will just be much more user friendly for use while driving.

Very good price on an A2 body harness!

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ETA: Might be sold already.

Another A2 harness for a really good price. This one is new!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1186578574714390/permalink/3349709065067986/

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Member Lawman734 just listed this for sale.

A little higher than what I paid for mine but these have dried up. Has the very helpful 4x torque multiplier that's perfect for working on the shocks!

I use the piss out of my impact.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1186578574714390/permalink/3351033904935502/?sale_post_id=3351033904935502

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Anybody have a lead on a Check 6 wiring harness?

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Wow! Tons of great info here. I have read through damn near all 79 pages of this thread. You all have some nice trucks!

I've had the itch for a few years now (ever since the trucks have been showing up on the auctions) to get one.

I have a few questions...

1). I'm not very mechanically inclined. Can any diesel mechanic/automotive shop work on these when they break down/have issues?

2). Which engine/tranny/years are the more reliable and road worthy?

3). The information for registering these in OHIO is a little dated. Has anyone registered one lately in OHIO for road use? Or would I be better off searching for one that's already been registered/titled in OHIO?

Thanks!

Hey Carl!

I'll answer what I can with my viewpoint. Hopefully a few others will chime in.


First, even if you aren't mechanically inclined, there is loads and loads of information in the published technical manuals out there plus a huge amount of support here and the various Facebook groups. Being able to do your own repairs is a big asset to ownership.

If you have to have someone else work on it, so long as it's powertrain related, most places that can work on a GM engine/transmission should be able to work on it though there's a few quirks to them in this application (like being mostly mechanical based). That said, I'd still chose your repair shop wisely. I don't know where you're at in Ohio but if you're anywhere near the Hamilton, Ohio area in the SW part of the state, Rubber Duck 4x4 is the place to take your truck. Travis has been involved with working on the platform since the 90s.


I feel like there's really no "more reliable" model since the 6.2/6.5 family of engines, TH400 3 speed transmissions, and 4L80E 4 speed are all fairly reliable engines and transmissions in their own right. The other changes that have been made in later trucks like the REVs, I don't think, really contribute significantly to overall reliability despite them being Reliability Enhanced Vehicles. The improvements they bring are good but don't necessarily make them significantly more reliable.

Road worthiness is going to come down to what type of roads do you intend to drive? That said, I'd personally recommend an A2 or higher (like ECV or REV) truck with the 4L80. The 6.5TD that comes in the ECV and REV trucks isn't a powerhouse but it does give the truck noticeable get up and go. The TH400 3 speed is going to be pushing it driving at 65 and you know how that goes in Ohio since everyone is either driving 15 under or 15 over.

The newer A2 and up trucks are also going to come with other upgrades like a heavier duty drivetrain and bigger brakes that the A0 and A1 trucks don't have.


I'm going to preface this with the statement that nothing regarding these trucks is guaranteed since these trucks are in limbo here in our wonderful () state. The information in the OP is still probably the most up to date available. There's been no pro-MV legislation passed and so far as I know DPS/BMV hasn't changed their stance on them.

You should be able to get one that's been already titled in Ohio reasonably easy. That said, no guarantees someone at the BMV isn't going to cause problems when you try to get the title in your name and there's also less chance of finding a later model A2+ truck. You might have luck getting one titled from a neighboring state but it's going to really come down to how thorough the title office is. If they just push the work through they might not pay too close attention to what it is so long as you've got your VIN verification paperwork in order and everything ready to go. Getting one of the current auction A2+ USMC trucks that have the non-off road only branded SF97 may work as well since the issue was the "Off Road Use Only" branding all the Army trucks were coming with on their SF97s. The absolute path of least resistance is probably going to be going with Vermont registration (so long as it's at least 15+ years old) or Montana registration.

@carlschmarl2

Here in Ohio.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1680339495567249/

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I think it's priced high for what he's got but, it does say it has a clean on road title.

A clean A0 2 man should be somewhere in the neighborhood of $14k-$16k.

The 18k Warn adds a bit, even if it isn't really correct for the truck (assuming it isn't a hack job install, I note it doesn't have the frame extensions for a correct winch install). And it does have a rear bumper and some upgraded seats. Judging from the sheen of the paint, I'm sure it's Rapco.

He mentions an 1102 trailer. Going rate on those is anywhere from $1,000 to $2,500 depending on condition.

If I were looking to buy it, I'd offer $21k with the trailer included.

For those looking for some real green CARC paint, there is some for sale on g503.

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Finally get three days off and hope to get some HMMWV projects done. First will be the new seat covers. The backs are the molle ones on eBay and they just made the matching bases. Have to disassemble the seat but looks to be worth it to protect/cover the light tan. Next will be the radio tray if I can get it painted. Also received my Check 6 control box and at4 rocket launcher brackets. If anyone has a line on check 6 parts, a law m72 or at4 launcher let me know.

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Put some insulation on my hard top that's going on tomorrow along with my C-pillar.

1 layer of Noico.

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Test fitting the db Engineering cab insulation to see how it'll look. It's a 54"x120" roll.

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Trimming went okay.

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Cut and glued down.

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It turned out decent I think. Some small issues I have with it. Might try to trim it a little to get a better git but, the uneven sides should get hidden with some insulation retainers I'm going to try to pick up.

Slightly uneven side is also the side is also the side the heater ducting runs down so that'll help cover it up.

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The seam down the middle is going to get hidden with an overhead console but might pick up a metal strip to run down the center.

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Made sure any unevenness front to back was at the back.

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B-pillar fit into place for the top to be put on tomorrow.

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I reversed the sides for the turret supports so they cant backwards instead of forward.

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After the hard top is on tomorrow, I'm going to use a jack inside to push the B-pillar up as high as it'll go then drill everything.

Also got some new teardrop shackles on too!

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ETA: The TM is incorrect on the castle nut for the teardrop shackles. It is not a 3/4-20. It is a 3/4-16. The part number for them is correct. And if anyone needs any I've got about 18 more.

So yesterday I got the top completely insulated and today I got it mounted on the truck!

It still needs finessed into place and bolted down but the hard part of lifting it (with my brother's Jeep's winch and a tree ) is done.

The C-pillar is largely installed. I don't know how but I managed to not get enough washers so I'll have to go to TSC and get some when I go to get some new bumper bolts.

Still need to get the B-pillar bolted in as well as put in the rear panels, C-pillar insulation, door opening weatherstrip, D-pillars, bed rails, jerry can carriers, L-track on the rails, and get my doors blasted and painted plus get my rear curtain trimmed down and installed. Fortunately we're supposed to have pretty decent weather up until, I think, Thursday of next week so I should have plenty of time to at least get the doors done which is my biggest concern.

I did also, on the advice of Jake, get some roof insulation retainers from a member on FB to better help hide my uneven sides with the insulation so, $200 to make up for my lack of skill.

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The Sikaflex should do nicely keeping water on the fenders out!

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Once I've got the rear panels installed I'll run a bead of Sikaflex on the inside of those too to completely seal that up. Which reminds me, I'll still need to relocate my cargo partition back to line up with the rear panels too.

Ryan,
I wouldn't worry about the small imperfections, looks good to me.  Besides it's a HMMWV.
But I also have anal/perfectionist tendencies, so I know where your are coming from.
Is the Silkaflex you used, 221?

I know. I have to keep telling myself exactly that or I'd be even further behind than I am.

And yes, it's the 221.

ETA: Just a word of advice, Sikaflex 221 is just like black colored antiseize.

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New seat covers from BMI are on. I am really happy with the bases. I wish they had these when I first got my HMMWV as I would never have replaced the seats, just covered them. @stoner63a I remember you were looking at having a company make some for you. I can say that Kyle and Beverly at Black Mountain Group (aka BMI Defense) can probably make you what you need for a great price.

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Also finished the radio tray install. Really opens up the passenger side area and gave me a better place to mount my Ibis Tek light bar controller. Seems other accessories (such as keyboard, kick guard, etc...) for this tray are harder as most are for the Turbo trays which this one is not. Now to try and mount a few different monitors I have coming to try out. Also, if anyone has a lead on the monitor mount that goes behind the front seats for the rear passengers or a DVE monitor mount let me know as I am looking for those.

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For those looking for a VIC 3/1 cellphone adapter, Augi is selling them again after a couple of years. I plan on picking up another to attach to the Radio B input.


https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=289356&start=60

Definitely recommend getting two if you've got a VIC system, even if you rarely end up using them because they're so hard to get.

It's the only way to easily get the very common 3.5mm mini-jack output into the VIC system, even if you just stick a Bluetooth adapter into it. I've also used it with my my phone with hands free calling before and it works great!

Does anyone have a 10k or A2 mid driveshaft sitting around they could measure the slip yoke diameter on for me?

ETA: The diameter at the bottoms of the splines, that is.

ETA2: Or the front shaft outer diameter at the top of the splines.

ETA3: Nevermind. Got it!

Thanks to Glynn at Night Vision Incorporated I was able to source the wiring harness for the Check 6 thermal camera. Tested it today in the house and its awesome. Now to figure out which side to install it on. The cable ends are pretty large.

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Kentucky streamlined humvees and other atvs for on-road titles in 2017.  That month i got one.  If not id for sure have a m1009.

Received my armored grill today. Installed it twice as it was upside down the first time.

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Very cool.

I like those but im afraid to do anything that restricts airflow.