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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Second fair lead won't fit. So that idea is out. I agree that this setup will tear up the cable and plate. Plus the hood not staying open. Running out of ideas other than ditching the Ibis Tek number and going with a different style. View Quote Well, they're clearly designed to work together since it's the winch that's part of the "optional winch kit". Going to come down to finding what mounting solution Ibis Tek used with the kit. If you'll recall, the Ibis Tek also didn't even play well with the early style electric winch plate I've got. I had to extend the slot on the Ibis Tek to clear. Attached File Only thing I can suggest, aside from actually contacting Ibis Tek, is to try the HMMWV Owners FB group. See if anyone on there has setup the Ibis Tek with the MM or knows how the original Ibis Tek winch kit worked with the bumper. |
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Just posted on the FB HMMWV Owners group and sent a message to Ibis Tek yesterday. Will let the week play out before deciding if it times to go a different route. I can say for sure that it is not ideal to route it up and then back down though the bumper as that's a lot of lateral stress on the bumper out front with only four bolts holding the bumper on.
Aside from that, I saw your post about the fess going up. That's hard to understand why during this time. Add in the fees, transportation costs, and taxes and it gets a little pricey now. |
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@night9
How has the SECO hard top you bought been working out? I've about given up on finding a supplemental armor or just basic hard top and I am thinking about getting one from SECO. |
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Originally Posted By FKAM: @night9 How has the SECO hard top you bought been working out? I've about given up on finding a supplemental armor or just basic hard top and I am thinking about getting one from SECO. View Quote I'd love to let you know how mine is working out but it won't stop raining so I can paint it. Still sitting in the crate. At least I was able to get my wheel faces painted with Alumahyde. Almost 1 week down and another week left for curing. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: I'd love to let you know how mine is working out but it won't stop raining so I can paint it. Still sitting in the crate. At least I was able to get my wheel faces painted with Alumahyde. Almost 1 week down and another week left for curing. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2861_jpeg-1427001.JPG View Quote Ryan, I'm assuming yours is also sourced from SECO but I thought I better ask. Is yours a SECO hard top? |
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Originally Posted By FKAM: Ryan, I'm assuming yours is also sourced from SECO but I thought I better ask. Is yours a SECO hard top? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FKAM: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: I'd love to let you know how mine is working out but it won't stop raining so I can paint it. Still sitting in the crate. At least I was able to get my wheel faces painted with Alumahyde. Almost 1 week down and another week left for curing. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2861_jpeg-1427001.JPG Ryan, I'm assuming yours is also sourced from SECO but I thought I better ask. Is yours a SECO hard top? It is. |
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Well heard from Ibis Tek and a guy who has a demo unit from them and the bumper is installed correctly. As I assumed, the first opening is so you can read the instructions on the winch plate. It does route up like I have but they claim no issues and claim the cable will not rub as long as there is a load on it and it is secured tightly. Couldn't get much else as I was interested in the light mount that goes around the front fairlead opening and the push plates, but nope, nothing more than its installed correctly. The reason the hood is hitting is the LED turn signals are thicker and stick out more than the old ones. Need to see if there are shorter turn signals. I'm going to leave it for now and try to finish running the hoses this week and connecting everything else.
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Well heard from Ibis Tek and a guy who has a demo unit from them and the bumper is installed correctly. As I assumed, the first opening is so you can read the instructions on the winch plate. It does route up like I have but they claim no issues and claim the cable will not rub as long as there is a load on it and it is secured tightly. Couldn't get much else as I was interested in the light mount that goes around the front fairlead opening and the push plates, but nope, nothing more than its installed correctly. The reason the hood is hitting is the LED turn signals are thicker and stick out more than the old ones. Need to see if there are shorter turn signals. I'm going to leave it for now and try to finish running the hoses this week and connecting everything else. View Quote Interesting... At least you got definitive word. There are special buckets for the LED front composite lights. They're a much shallower design. I almost bought some just to be different but decided to pass. They're on one of the FB groups and I actually saw them earlier when I was looking for tops for FKAM. Let me see if I can find them again. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Interesting... At least you got definitive word. There are special buckets for the LED front composite lights. They're a much shallower design. I almost bought some just to be different but decided to pass. They're on one of the FB groups and I actually saw them earlier when I was looking for tops for FKAM. Let me see if I can find them again. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Well heard from Ibis Tek and a guy who has a demo unit from them and the bumper is installed correctly. As I assumed, the first opening is so you can read the instructions on the winch plate. It does route up like I have but they claim no issues and claim the cable will not rub as long as there is a load on it and it is secured tightly. Couldn't get much else as I was interested in the light mount that goes around the front fairlead opening and the push plates, but nope, nothing more than its installed correctly. The reason the hood is hitting is the LED turn signals are thicker and stick out more than the old ones. Need to see if there are shorter turn signals. I'm going to leave it for now and try to finish running the hoses this week and connecting everything else. Interesting... At least you got definitive word. There are special buckets for the LED front composite lights. They're a much shallower design. I almost bought some just to be different but decided to pass. They're on one of the FB groups and I actually saw them earlier when I was looking for tops for FKAM. Let me see if I can find them again. @jake-cutter Found them! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1680339495567249/permalink/2581117225489467/?sale_post_id=2581117225489467 Attached File Attached File Attached File I hadn't seen them before... |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: @jake-cutter Found them! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1680339495567249/permalink/2581117225489467/?sale_post_id=2581117225489467 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2020-05-23_1-43-55_jpg-1428732.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/94907411_2953908984700903_83405073083373-1428733.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/94702553_2953910004700801_53273950822554-1428734.JPG I hadn't seen them before... View Quote Thanks, I ordered a set from him this morning. They are defiantly unique looking compared to the deep version that I currently have. Will post pics installed once they arrive. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Thanks, I ordered a set from him this morning. They are defiantly unique looking compared to the deep version that I currently have. Will post pics installed once they arrive. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: @jake-cutter Found them! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1680339495567249/permalink/2581117225489467/?sale_post_id=2581117225489467 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2020-05-23_1-43-55_jpg-1428732.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/94907411_2953908984700903_83405073083373-1428733.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/94702553_2953910004700801_53273950822554-1428734.JPG I hadn't seen them before... Thanks, I ordered a set from him this morning. They are defiantly unique looking compared to the deep version that I currently have. Will post pics installed once they arrive. Awesome! I'm curious to see what they look like installed. |
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Looking at Radio Trays again to rearrange some stuff and put my small inverter on it. Does anyone have a pic of how the radio tray below installs as I do not see the typical post/feet. This one seems to have 3 holes on the front and two on the rear.
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Looking at Radio Trays again to rearrange some stuff and put my small inverter on it. Does anyone have a pic of how the radio tray below installs as I do not see the typical post/feet. This one seems to have 3 holes on the front and two on the rear. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/Radio_Tray_JPG-1430537.JPG View Quote I don't know that I've seen that one before... Is it possible it's designed for the turbo trucks and mounts to the floor bar that gets installed? Looks like the holes might line up. At the bottom of this one: Attached File Austin has one for sale by itself: Attached File ETA: Looking closer, maybe not... Still, could be drilled and tapped or maybe use existing holes on it to add to the tray. And it might still need that extra height the bar gives to line up on top. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Looking at Radio Trays again to rearrange some stuff and put my small inverter on it. Does anyone have a pic of how the radio tray below installs as I do not see the typical post/feet. This one seems to have 3 holes on the front and two on the rear. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/Radio_Tray_JPG-1430537.JPG View Quote @jake-cutter They use a mounting plate like this. Attached File I haven't seen one mounted in a gun truck and don't know if there is enough room between the turbo doghouse and the gunners platform. Although the plates in front are kick plates to keep the gunner from hitting the radios with their feet. Something that was a problem with earlier setups. I kicked the radios all the time when struggling to move the turret quickly. I haven't been able to find a manual with mounting/drilling instructions for this type of setup yet either. |
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Originally Posted By FKAM: @jake-cutter They use a mounting plate like this. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455280/FBCB2m_jpg-1432115.JPG I haven't seen one mounted in a gun truck and don't know if there is enough room between the turbo doghouse and the gunners platform. Although the plates in front are kick plates to keep the gunner from hitting the radios with their feet. Something that was a problem with earlier setups. I kicked the radios all the time when struggling to move the turret quickly. I haven't been able to find a manual with mounting/drilling instructions for this type of setup yet either. View Quote Heh. I kicked our stuff off once. 6’2” in a turret, all the legs and feet have to go somewhere. |
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I know a few folks have an interest in radio units...
Attached File ETA: Realized I forgot to go back and add a link to this. https://www.facebook.com/groups/511323439399170/permalink/805549776643200/ |
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I looked at those radios right before you posted. It was tempting but passed as I would prefer the next size down and there are no vehicle mount right now.
Finally had time to go for a drive and stopped by a buddy who just bought his HMMWV yesterday. Good basic platform to build off of. Attached File Also took some updated pics of mine after installing the mile marker winch. I like that the bumper sits closer and no gap. Hopefully the new turn signal buckets will be in tomorrow and then I can finish the front up. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: I looked at those radios right before you posted. It was tempting but passed as I would prefer the next size down and there are no vehicle mount right now. Finally had time to go for a drive and stopped by a buddy who just bought his HMMWV yesterday. Good basic platform to build off of. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200529_145435_jpg-1438014.JPG Also took some updated pics of mine after installing the mile marker winch. I like that the bumper sits closer and no gap. Hopefully the new turn signal buckets will be in tomorrow and then I can finish the front up. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200529_161336_jpg-1438016.JPG View Quote Nice Humvees, I envy you guys. |
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This world would be a better place to live if it weren't for people!
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Well, I just finished something I hope I can go another 4+ years of not dealing with.
Got my runflats installed in my new tires. At first I tried the bottle jack method in the video I posted a while back but found my jack needed to be about 2" taller to get the runflat as narrow as it needs to be. Something I'd note that might be hard to see in the video, they have a, probably, 4" wide piece of square tube on the bottom of the jack. I used one of my old pintle bumper brackets since it is heavy duty enough. Since my bottle jack was a hair short, I decided to try the runflat compressor tool I got with my recent tool kit. Talk about a borderline useless tool. It didn't have the power to easily completely compress the runflat as much as it needed to be and, when it was under load, the worm gear barely has any engagement, because of how flimsy the chassis of it is, making me question the safety of it. It wasn't until I combined the two methods that I had any success. I started getting the runflat as elongated as possible using the bottle jack and then got it that last little bit with the runflat compressor. Even then, the compressor would jump a gear tooth every so often when tightening it. But doing that I was finally able to get the runflats narrow enough to get them in the tire which I had opened up with ratchet straps. Once in I'd loosen the compressor to the point it hung loose with some excess and was putting most of the work on the jack. Once on the jack and with plenty of slack on the compressor, I'd let the jack down until the runflat was tight in the compressor again. Then I'd get the runflat the rest of the way in the tire and then finally completely loosen the compressor and remove it. A pry bar with a flat head (like the one on a large lug wrench) is needed. I didn't use grease because I didn't want to deal with the mess but it probably would have helped a little. They did use grease in the bottle jack video. Here's how it went down. Opening the tire up: Attached File Getting the runflat elongated and compressed: Attached File Runflat in the bottom of the tire: Attached File Bottle jack out: Attached File Runflat in: Attached File Here's a couple pictures showing just how flimsy the runflat compressor is. This is the worm gear engagement with no load: Attached File This is the worm gear engagement with it under max load. As you can see it's barely hanging on: Attached File After everything was done, you can see how much it's bent: Attached File If there were some sort of reinforcement across the area where the worm gear is, it would be much more secure. I might try to add some threaded rod between the two sides but the problem is, on the side of the chassis the worm gear is mounted to, there's not a lot of room to drill into the bracket as it is. Might need to notch the worm gear assembly that's bolted to the chassis to make room. The other option you could do if you were handy with a welder is weld some flat stock across it. Attached File For the chassis to work as is, it would probably need to be twice as thick. Yesterday I tackled an easier job. Added a little protection for the headlights. Attached File (After I took the pic I noticed it wasn't aligned and fixed it. ) Attached File And, this is actually an authentic modification! A gentleman I know who comes up with some parts now and again has had multiple headlight bezels like this for sale: Attached File |
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Failed To Load Title Softskins in Minn! Attached File Attached File Someone didn't get combat doors before rolling out. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Well, I just finished something I hope I can go another 4+ years of not dealing with...... Here's a couple pictures showing just how flimsy the runflat compressor is. This is the worm gear engagement with no load: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_3004_jpeg-1439833.JPG This is the worm gear engagement with it under max load. As you can see it's barely hanging on: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/camphoto_1483920592_jpeg-1439834.JPG After everything was done, you can see how much it's bent: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_3033_jpg-1439856.JPG If there were some sort of reinforcement across the area where the worm gear is, it would be much more secure. I might try to add some threaded rod between the two sides but the problem is, on the side of the chassis the worm gear is mounted to, there's not a lot of room to drill into the bracket as it is. Might need to notch the worm gear assembly that's bolted to the chassis to make room. The other option you could do if you were handy with a welder is weld some flat stock across it. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2999_jpeg-1439857.JPG For the chassis to work as is, it would probably need to be twice as thick. View Quote A little disheartening to see that they are not really up to the task they are designed for, especially after I paid as much as I did a few years ago for one. Should have waited for more to come up on surplus, price for one is a lot lower now. Hopefully I'll remember when/if I use mine to watch things closely. Looks like something that could eat a few fingers if it gave away. Thanx for the post. |
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Originally Posted By FKAM: A little disheartening to see that they are not really up to the task they are designed for, especially after I paid as much as I did a few years ago for one. Should have waited for more to come up on surplus, price for one is a lot lower now. Hopefully I'll remember when/if I use mine to watch things closely. Looks like something that could eat a few fingers if it gave away. Thanx for the post. View Quote Yeah, I expected better out of it. Like I said, if that one side is reinforced I think it would make a big difference. |
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Alright, I think I've finally figured out my driver's side rear fender storage setup.
At first I was planning on going with the TSC poly storage box I posted about a while ago but wasn't entirely happy with how it would end up. Sitting on top the fender the lid would be tough to open with the cargo cover on. Plus while it looked okay, it didn't look great. But I didn't really know any other solution. Then I saw this on one of the groups and had some thoughts: Attached File I thought the idea was a great use of space! It kept the box low enough to still open the lid with the cargo cover on, the area still could be used for temporary storage/seating on top of it without the cover on, and it made use of otherwise empty space in the wheel well. I had originally planned to put 1 5 gallon Deuce air tank in each wheel well for my onboard air but, it should be easy enough to relocate one to make a storage solution happen. Also, based on some of the GMVs that have turned up with tops of the fenderwells cut out, there's been some speculation about storage that went there. Attached File But back to the picture... The poster said that the box was custom made. I didn't like the thought of A) trying to find someone to make a custom box for me (and the likely cost) and B) how shallow it would be to get it just like that. But, I thought the overall idea was sound. So I started looking at manufactured boxes more thoroughly. Found the Lund 288271BK ATV box with gas strut for the lid, locking latch, and weatherseal. Attached File Attached File The dimensions fit the fender area perfectly. It's deeper so that means it'll stick up further but not completely like the TSC box, more like only half way since I don't want to go any deeper than 6"-7" in the fenderwell. Attached File Attached File The Bogert jack fits perfectly in it: Attached File But unfortunately my Sam's Club mechanic's tool kit doesn't: Attached File The box is just too small to get it in there so, I found one that might work. A Stanley 201pc kit I put on order so I'll see if it does. Going to have to take off the handles and the logo plate. Will also have to get some 1x1 angle iron that'll get bolted to the box and the tub to install it. All of that will need to be tightly sealed so that tire spray doesn't come up. I'm going to wait to install this until the hardtop/1165 rear/bedrails are all installed to get the fit on it just right. I am pretty optimistic about the end result though! |
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I’m wondering if the civilian style runflat compressor is made any differently? Perhap contacting a few of the vendors? (HPG, Dave Breggin @Mod Mafia, Rubber Duck, Adventure Accessories)
I don’t use runflats, just the beadlock only insert. |
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Originally Posted By JustinOK34: I’m wondering if the civilian style runflat compressor is made any differently? Perhap contacting a few of the vendors? (HPG, Dave Breggin @Mod Mafia, Rubber Duck, Adventure Accessories) I don’t use runflats, just the beadlock only insert. View Quote There's 2 style runflat tools, and I think 2 styles of the version I've got but I could be wrong on that. Attached File Are you thinking of the one on the left? I was this >< close to admitting defeat and getting the PVC inserts before I decided to try the jack and compressor together. I'd still much rather have the new modular, 4 piece runflats. Easier to install and lighter weight: Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File I've seen some folks getting trucks with them installed but not cheap if you try to go buy them. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: There's 2 style runflat tools, and I think 2 styles of the version I've got but I could be wrong on that. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2020-06-05_11-35-22_jpg-1447868.JPG Are you thinking of the one on the left? I was this >< close to admitting defeat and getting the PVC inserts before I decided to try the jack and compressor together. I'd still much rather have the new modular, 4 piece runflats. Easier to install and lighter weight: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat1_jpg-1447872.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat2_jpg-1447873.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat3_jpg-1447874.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat4_jpg-1447875.JPG I've seen some folks getting trucks with them installed but not cheap if you try to go buy them. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Originally Posted By JustinOK34: I’m wondering if the civilian style runflat compressor is made any differently? Perhap contacting a few of the vendors? (HPG, Dave Breggin @Mod Mafia, Rubber Duck, Adventure Accessories) I don’t use runflats, just the beadlock only insert. There's 2 style runflat tools, and I think 2 styles of the version I've got but I could be wrong on that. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2020-06-05_11-35-22_jpg-1447868.JPG Are you thinking of the one on the left? I was this >< close to admitting defeat and getting the PVC inserts before I decided to try the jack and compressor together. I'd still much rather have the new modular, 4 piece runflats. Easier to install and lighter weight: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat1_jpg-1447872.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat2_jpg-1447873.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat3_jpg-1447874.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/new_runflat4_jpg-1447875.JPG I've seen some folks getting trucks with them installed but not cheap if you try to go buy them. So in my 1998 AM General factory manual for my HMC4 (civ model), the picture of the runflat compressor matches the picture on the right. The tool number is the one on the left. I've never used either version so I'm pretty clueless. I had my runflats yanked out. The guy doing it chained the tires to two posts that he cemented in the ground just for this purpose (Dave Hinnant in Tulsa, he's been an owner since 1995ish, and has ran his shop probably since before that time; I've had him work on my truck a couple times. Him and his tech know Hummers). Anyways, he chains the tire to the posts. Then gets another chain, wraps it around the runflat and attaches to his truck front bumper, then just slowly backs up and out comes the runflat. I use the AM General beadlock-only inserts for their 17" two piece aluminum wheels. I seem to recall some guys doing something similar to be able to get the ratchet to tighten all the way. You might scour the HML/Hummer Network Forums and see what others have done, if you haven't already. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: @jake-cutter Found them! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1680339495567249/permalink/2581117225489467/?sale_post_id=2581117225489467 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2020-05-23_1-43-55_jpg-1428732.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/94907411_2953908984700903_83405073083373-1428733.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/94702553_2953910004700801_53273950822554-1428734.JPG I hadn't seen them before... View Quote Got the new turn signal buckets in and painted. Down side is I have Grote LEDs which seem to have a different bolt pattern. Top and bottom two line up but not the middle two. Difently pulls the lights in closer. Hood still won't open all the way as it's hitting the two center posts on ibis Tek bumper. Still need to work on that. Attached File Attached File |
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I got the tires done and installed today. Took the truck on it's first drive in a couple weeks, since I messed with the tie rods.
Handling is much improved since I had Tire Discounters align it. Still need to stick a couple shims in the front to get camber 100% correct. Then I'll have Tire Discounters actually get things 100% trued on the toe. But yeah, the truck no longer feels like it's fighting itself. However after today, think I'm completely done with surplus tires. And if I'm done with surplus tires, I'm ditching the 16.5s regardless of if they're correct because there are far better tire options with a 17" wheel. To start off, the tires definitely rode smoother under 60 with the RV antifreeze but once I hit 65 I had bounce as bad and possibly worse than I had on the old tires. Before I completely jump ship on the 16.5s, I am going to make sure I get my Energy Suspension poly bushings installed as I've heard that worn bushings can contribute to bounce but, I'm not hopeful as I saw evidence on a couple of the tires, as I was assembling them, that they may have been panic stopped on. As in you could see spots on the tire lugs where rubber had dragged. I'll try and get a pic to show what I'm talking about if I can remember to. Really wish I had thought to look for that when I bought them. And I think if I ditch the 16.5s and go to 17s, I'm going to go ahead and go with 40s since I've got room for them with the 2" suspension lift and have the blue poly body mounts (with a couple extra spacers) to still install. Not sure what tires and wheels I'd go with yet. My brother who's got a couple aftermarket off road parts connections is going to see what he can find. Only stipulations I gave him were the 17s need to be beadlock and not be gaudy, something like the new GMV protoypes have. The new GMV prototypes have Hutchinson beadlock wheels but I don't have Hutchinson beadlock wheel money. Attached File Attached File Maybe if I ran across a set of the 17" H1 aluminum 2 pieces I'd go with those. Those look pretty good but would need to be matte black. I'll probably keep the 16.5s/37s as hard use trail tires. Regardless, going to worry about getting the hard top/bedrail/storage box stuff done first since the truck is still driveable. Would just be nice to actually smoothly cruise at what the truck can do. Originally Posted By JustinOK34: So in my 1998 AM General factory manual for my HMC4 (civ model), the picture of the runflat compressor matches the picture on the right. The tool number is the one on the left. I've never used either version so I'm pretty clueless. I had my runflats yanked out. The guy doing it chained the tires to two posts that he cemented in the ground just for this purpose (Dave Hinnant in Tulsa, he's been an owner since 1995ish, and has ran his shop probably since before that time; I've had him work on my truck a couple times. Him and his tech know Hummers). Anyways, he chains the tire to the posts. Then gets another chain, wraps it around the runflat and attaches to his truck front bumper, then just slowly backs up and out comes the runflat. I use the AM General beadlock-only inserts for their 17" two piece aluminum wheels. I seem to recall some guys doing something similar to be able to get the ratchet to tighten all the way. You might scour the HML/Hummer Network Forums and see what others have done, if you haven't already. View Quote Yeah, that pretty close to the method I used to remove them. I just wrapped one of my tow straps around a tree and the tire on either side, with a second strap attached to the truck and runflat. Getting them out is definitely the easier part. Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Got the new turn signal buckets in and painted. Down side is I have Grote LEDs which seem to have a different bolt pattern. Top and bottom two line up but not the middle two. Difently pulls the lights in closer. Hood still won't open all the way as it's hitting the two center posts on ibis Tek bumper. Still need to work on that. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200606_131314_jpg-1450795.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200606_131317_jpg-1450796.JPG View Quote Interesting to see what those buckets look like installed. A shame they didn't line up with the turn signals and pull them back far enough to prevent contact. I've got Grotes in the front too so I guess I won't bother getting these buckets. I'll just keep the metal buckets. I wish I could remember how well everything worked together before I did my winch and ECV front end but it's been so long... |
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Oh, forgot to mention, I also picked up a couple Ibis Tek 360 HID/IR Spot Lights after one of the members on one of the FB groups posted video about his successfully determining the pinout and building a control unit.
I decided the EyeCon MRAP kit is going to go on a 5 ton M939 I'm going to be picking up in the near future from a buddy. Still wanted some remote control spots and the Ibis Tek units are pretty cheap! Will just need to figure out a way to mount them. I'd like to have them how Jake has his GoLights but you can't find those brackets anywhere. I might hack up the EyeCon brackets but I might need those on the 5 ton, I'll have to see. |
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New tool kit came in. It juuuust barely fits!
Attached File I forgot to put the Bogert jack's plate in but it fits too. I still need to get some small hand tools like pliers (regular and needle nose), Vice Grips, Channel Locks, dikes, hammer, etc. together. Also will need to adjust the lid so it's tight against the weatherseal. Started taking off soft top hardware yesterday... First step will be getting the B-pillar turret supports installed so I can measure and order the length of tube I need to connect them. The B-pillar covers don't need painted so those can go on too. Second step will be fitting all the hard top hardware, like the add on windshield supports, and getting the C-pillar located and drilling the tub for installation. Third step will be painting everything. Fourth step will be final installation of the hard top hardware. Fifth step will be D-pillars and bed rails. No idea on the timeline I'll be able to get all this done on. Mostly going to depend on the weather, for now. |
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Originally Posted By FKAM: Do you already have the B-Pillar tubes.? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FKAM: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: First step will be getting the B-pillar turret supports installed so I can measure and order the length of tube I need to connect them. The B-pillar covers don't need painted so those can go on too. Do you already have the B-Pillar tubes.? Yeah, I got brand new B-pillar tubes off eBay a while back pretty cheap, complete with the aluminum mounting blocks. I know that as designed they angle backwards but supposedly they can be rotated and redrilled. I've seen there's a very slight angle inwards as well so I guess I'll see if that causes any problems. It's, hopefully, a slight enough angle it doesn't. Not going to redrill them until I've got tubing connecting them so I know everything is straight. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Yeah, I got brand new B-pillar tubes off eBay a while back pretty cheap, complete with the aluminum mounting blocks. I know that as designed they angle backwards but supposedly they can be rotated and redrilled. I've seen there's a very slight angle inwards as well so I guess I'll see if that causes any problems. It's, hopefully, a slight enough angle it doesn't. Not going to redrill them until I've got tubing connecting them so I know everything is straight. View Quote Roger that. Thought I'd ask. I have a extra pair of the H-Support ones that I bought long ago before I knew what I was doing. |
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The hard top install is underway!
Attached File Naturally, I couldn't help taking the truck on a quick cruise around the neighborhood like that. Made me want to go slot some Antifa Iraq 2003 style! I also test fit the turret support tubes to see how things would work out reorienting them. How they'd normally fit: Attached File Turned: Attached File So it looks like it angles it forward slightly. Don't think it should cause any other issues... Attached File Attached File Attached File So, anyone with a hard top currently installed think the turret support angled forward will have any interference issues? The cross tube will need to be 4'. I had measured what the ID will need to be to fit over the turret supports but I forget now. I think long term I'd like to devise a way to make the hard top removable and devise some tubing that would go between the B-pillar as well as the A-pillar and C-pillar so the truck wouldn't look weird with the 1165 style C-pillar and B-pillar just sitting there on their own with no top. I'm thinking some notched tubing welded to the turret supports with mounting tabs for the windshield frame and 1165 C-pillar would do the trick. Would need to see how the hard top fits with everything. And then there's the overhead console... |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Picked up a new toy to use with my truck! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2614_jpg-1369294.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2615_jpg-1369295.JPG It's an AcuTemp HemaCool Medical Refrigerator/Freezer! Runs off 100-240 VAC or 12-24 VDC and has 2 18 amp hour 12 volt batteries. Says it lasts 24 hours on batteries alone on cool or 8 on freeze. Pretty much the ultimate in mobile refrigeration! Came with both AC and DC cords. DC cord looks unused. I'm going to put one of those gray QDs like I've got on my "modular" slave cable I built so I can hook it to the slave port on my truck. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2616_jpg-1369333.JPG Thing is pretty big at 39"x23"x23" and weighs about 140lbs empty. Actually found the service and operator manuals on SS of all places. Had to drive about 80 miles to get it but, got it for the excellent price of $200 and no shipping. Most on eBay are $500+shipping. For reference, an ARB mobile fridge runs about $1,000! It powers up and functions, mostly. When these are surplussed they remove the refrigerant but the seller plugged it in and said it cooled it a little. So it'll need a refrigerant charge (which isn't mentioned how to do in the service manual but apparently uses common R134a) and needs new 18ah batteries (which are common and I can get through work). The other nice thing is that the company that makes these is right up in Dayton, OH so support should be easy to get. Might see if I can take it to them to get the refrigerant charged if I need to. View Quote @ryan_ruck got more pictures? This would be awesome for my truck. Been looking to snag a fridge. Anything to look for while picking one up? How much power does it draw? |
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Originally Posted By nsw8148:
I would suck the dick of the last man inside her just to get a taste |
Ryan only concern by turning them is the upper seat belt mount and padded head protection. Not a lot of room. what if you left them angled and made a center console upper mount to tie it all together?
Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Use_the_2nd: @ryan_ruck got more pictures? This would be awesome for my truck. Been looking to snag a fridge. Anything to look for while picking one up? How much power does it draw? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Use_the_2nd: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Picked up a new toy to use with my truck! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2614_jpg-1369294.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2615_jpg-1369295.JPG It's an AcuTemp HemaCool Medical Refrigerator/Freezer! Runs off 100-240 VAC or 12-24 VDC and has 2 18 amp hour 12 volt batteries. Says it lasts 24 hours on batteries alone on cool or 8 on freeze. Pretty much the ultimate in mobile refrigeration! Came with both AC and DC cords. DC cord looks unused. I'm going to put one of those gray QDs like I've got on my "modular" slave cable I built so I can hook it to the slave port on my truck. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/IMG_2616_jpg-1369333.JPG Thing is pretty big at 39"x23"x23" and weighs about 140lbs empty. Actually found the service and operator manuals on SS of all places. Had to drive about 80 miles to get it but, got it for the excellent price of $200 and no shipping. Most on eBay are $500+shipping. For reference, an ARB mobile fridge runs about $1,000! It powers up and functions, mostly. When these are surplussed they remove the refrigerant but the seller plugged it in and said it cooled it a little. So it'll need a refrigerant charge (which isn't mentioned how to do in the service manual but apparently uses common R134a) and needs new 18ah batteries (which are common and I can get through work). The other nice thing is that the company that makes these is right up in Dayton, OH so support should be easy to get. Might see if I can take it to them to get the refrigerant charged if I need to. @ryan_ruck got more pictures? This would be awesome for my truck. Been looking to snag a fridge. Anything to look for while picking one up? How much power does it draw? You looking for pics of anything specific on it? I don't have any more but would be happy to take some for you. Only thing I can suggest looking for when getting one is refrigerant charge. Like I mentioned though it takes R134 so you shouldn't have much issue getting one charged should it need it. And like I said, be warned, it's heavy as fuuuuck. No idea on the draw. It might be listed in the operator or service manual though. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/HemaCool_Operations_5_13_05.pdf https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/HemaCool_Service_5_13_05.pdf When you've got 200A of 24v, you don't tend to worry about draw. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Ryan only concern by turning them is the upper seat belt mount and padded head protection. Not a lot of room. what if you left them angled and made a center console upper mount to tie it all together? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200612_203504_jpg-1459291.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200612_203522_jpg-1459294.JPG View Quote I see what you mean. I've got the belt mounting blocks and pads. Going to redrill those holes too. I could see how it could interfere with the pads. I'll keep an eye on that. I thought about trying to use them as designed but it seems like A) a lot of work to get a custom cross tube fabbed and B) less strong than just a straight tube across. We'll see, fingers crossed... |
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In the realm of tires, I think I'll be keeping my eye out for the next 50% off sale Pit Bull runs for their Rocker XOR radials.
I had seen them on Xtreme Offroad back when Ian was still hosting and was pretty impressed with them. Not sure how but, I had forgotten they made a 16.5 option. https://pitbulltires.com/products/pit-bull-rocker-xor-lt-radial?variant=29040891021 New tires at ~$300/ea (~$360/ea for 41.5s) may be the most economical option without going to 17s, aside from the never in stock 37x16.5 TreadWrights. |
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Ryan,
I would go with something like this for the supports on the inside. This allows you to run the center console further back providing more space for things and ties the entire thing together. Attached File |
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Getting the 1165 C-pillar fit up to my truck today so I can see where everything is going to mount. Taking a break right now...
Had to finish removing the rear seat belt mounts first since those are integrated into the new C-pillars. When setting up the end pieces, I found that one of the mounting holes lines up with an existing bolt in the body so I was able to secure them without any drilling which was nice. Attached File Attached File I had to keep them loose to get the center section in. I reused some of the B-pillar bolts to temporarily install the center section. Going to go back and replace them with Grade 8 stuff. When I go back and replace the bolts, I'm going to try to see if I can't get things lined up better with a straight edge but when putting it together it didn't feel like there was much wiggle room to straighten it out further which means it's a little "off" overall. We'll see... Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File I feel like because of the potential alignment between the pieces and the grind marks, I'm going to just go over those seams with Bondo to give everything better flow and look. Going to use Sikaflex to seal up everything to the tub. Overall I'm very pleased with the C-pillar but, I'd be lying if I said I didn't think the fit and finish could be a little nicer however I do understand these are handmade and a far less expensive alternative than factory parts. That said, I think I can clean it up to my satisfaction. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Ryan, I would go with something like this for the supports on the inside. This allows you to run the center console further back providing more space for things and ties the entire thing together. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/Top_Hmmwv_jpg-1460336.JPG View Quote I do like that but, I lack the fabrication skills to make that happen and imagine that would be a tad expensive to get fabbed. Plan for the overhead console is actually a box that runs the full length of the cab that will hold the AC evap units (with ducting built in to it), have LED interior lights installed on it, have the VIC boxes mounted to it (angled towards the passengers but I couldn't do that in Paint ), and all the radios/accessory switches/12v stuff. Attached File It'll be closed on the top as well and straddle the B-pillar tube. Frankly it'll probably be one of the last things I do to the truck. |
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Use seam sealer and a putty knife to spread it. That's how the spoonsons are sealed on the front and back where the welds overlap. I used blue painter tapes on each side of the seam the spread it between to give a nice straight smooth area that was then painted over. Since the seam sealer is semi flexible it won't crack like bondo.
Also don't bolt everything up too tight until the top is on as everything will need a little bit of free play to get it lined up. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Use seam sealer and a putty knife to spread it. That's how the spoonsons are sealed on the front and back where the welds overlap. I used blue painter tapes on each side of the seam the spread it between to give a nice straight smooth area that was then painted over. Since the seam sealer is semi flexible it won't crack like bondo. Also don't bolt everything up too tight until the top is on as everything will need a little bit of free play to get it lined up. View Quote Which seam sealer did you use? I was thinking of using Sikaflex to do that as it is a seam sealer and is paintable but, after using it on the X-doors, I feel like it flexes a little too much for the paint. |
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Sem 29372. Got it at an auto paint supplies store. They recommend this as it's thick. Had to use a Ryobi battery powered caulk gun as it was hard to get out. Worked great.
Attached File |
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Got a nice little eBay score!
A brand new Gen 3 MVLS (the non-burny version) for $165 shipped! About half what I've seen the new firestarter Gen 1s sell for. Was listed as a "Freightliner Push Shift Selector". Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Got the new MVLS in!
(And I did disconnect the batteries and connect the ground to it first. ) Attached File Attached File Works perfect! |
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So where does that switch ground at?
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: So where does that switch ground at? View Quote If you notice in the post before my last there's a small threaded 1/4-20 hole in the case right near the Canon connector. From there I ran a wire to the body ground under the hood where the engine harness grounds. |
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