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But in all honestly, I did not end up replacing my pillow bearing so I can't offer any advice on swapping it. I would actually check the TM.

There was an 1165 cargo enclosure listed on FB back in October. Located in MA. Seller wanted $2k for it. Don't know that it ever sold.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1680339495567249/permalink/2181087525492441/?sale_post_id=2181087525492441

Ask Ken on Steel Soldiers as he did mine. I ordered it from Summit I believe.

there was a squared off fiberglass rear cover for a 4 man guntruck for sale on facebook awhile back.  would fit a current aluminum hardtop truck, dont know about any other tops.  an air force item pretty much.  guy was in new england, wanted $2k.

contacted him after the other guy posted link, was sold unfortunately.

Looking over my long block on remnant frame, it looks like the body harness up to the TCM is intact minus the amphenol connector.    I have the front propeller shaft from 242 forward.  And looks like the engine harness is mostly there along with the 4L80E to shifter linkages.
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thats good condition!  the place where mine was scrapped could learn a thing or two.

Wow, you really did luck out on your drivetrain! You mind sharing where you got it and how much it ran you?

Did it include the dual volt alternator too? Did it come with the electronic speedometer sender? It's on the transfer case.

You also got lucky with the front shaft being attached still. Those are harder to find than the rear shafts.

With the engine harness in the first pic it looks like it's just missing the Cannon plug. You're lucky it's still got the metal tags on everything. That will make putting a new Cannon plug on there very easy. The harness that came with mine had been cut above the metal tags so I had no idea what was what. You shouldn't have any problem finding a junk harness to salvage one off of. Austin/Beltfed on eBay always seems to have have a few. If you need, I can give you the location of each lead on the plug from mine. You can tell that's the engine harness because of the 4 pin connector for the TDM/fan next to the Cannon plug bundle. That bundle missing the Cannon plug should also have 3 fat wires right in the middle of it. The turbo engine harness has foil tape wrapped around it.

That middle pic, I'm not really sure what that is to be honest. That's not part of the engine harness and it's not part of the body harness. It uses commercial color coded wiring... Maybe A/C related stuff? What do those tags say? You've got me curious now.

Bottom pic is definitely the TCM plug because of the combination of black 16AWG and white 18AWG and number of wires. I'm amazed that's intact. They usually cut that off because you can't get the assembled plug through the opening in the tub.

Definitely a clean pull though.

15% off ebay today if you are needing any parts. I going to pick up the TOW mount/cover, some GMRS radio stuff and a Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8 Ratchet as I borrowed one and became hooked at how fast it was.

Thanks for the heads up!

Too bad I just bought a $60 worth of heat shrink butt splices for trans harnesses the other day.

Might need to check to see if I need anything else...

Good chance to get a donor Cannon plug from Austin, @stoner63a!

ETA: Also, good price on the brake switch you need if you don't have one yet.

Well, you did it Jake. You managed to get me to spend some money!

Snagged a set of weld on ECV/REV air lift hooks. Will go well with the ECV front end and actually let my hood gaskets fit correctly.

I was planning on grabbing a set some time next year but figured now is as good a time as any. Something small I can tackle over the winter since you don't really have to tear anything apart to cut off the old hoops or put these new ones on.

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There is a partial sub-harness plugged into the 4L80E: Attached File


The 242 Xfer has these two component remant sub-harness:

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Jake, did you get your TOW TU Pedestal from taylortrading?

On the 1986 A0 M998>M1026>GMV Project, if I raise the body 1" with the later body spacers, do I have to find the newer wire loop Air Lift Eyes to extended above the higher engine hood?

I did. Bought the pedestal and cover. Only downside was not combining shipping.

I grabbed a couple for my replica M134D stuff.   Going to insert a flat plate between the tin roof and the pedestal with an extra gasket, then drill out the plate for a 3 pin connector to plug the replica M134D into while keeping it weatherproof.

Nice! That's a great price for what you got. I paid about $1300 more without the alternator.

For the A/C compressor, I'd do one of two things until you're ready to install A/C (if you plan to). Install the A/C delete kit (Greg may have one) or get some rubber plugs and silicone them into the cut hard line openings (I'm assuming yours were cur like mine) to seal the compressor from the elements. I went with the latter.

Well, that blows... Why can't these places figure out it doesn't take that much more effort to pull these things cleanly and you could charge a lot more.

Looking at the pic, that looks really close in terms of pin arrangement but the overall design is different. I found the eBay listing and looked closer. It's hard to tell precisely though. Going solely off the Cannon/Amphenol naming convention though, the 20- is the shell size in 1/16ths of an inch which would come out to 1.25. Micing out the connector on two engine harnesses (I have my old 6.2 harness and a NIB 6.5NA/4L80 in front of me at the moment) I get closer to 1.5 which would be the 24- shell size.

If I search for MS3106A24-18S, however, I don't come up with anything.

And looking at the EESS plugs on the 6.2(6.5)/TH400 and 6.5NA/4L80 harness, neither has the Cannon/Amphenol part number on them.

I ended up buying a "complete" engine harness from Austin that I was going to salvage the plug off of so I still don't know the proper part number for that plug. The new harness ended up being in better physical shape so I repaired the missing pieces on it (a couple glow plug connectors and bad TPS plug). Only later I found out there was an internal break in it that I ended up having to hunt down and fix.

Definitely HVAC related. Can be set aside.

If those go to the IGN and AC taps, those should tie into the engine harness. There's some place on there those have been cut off. You should be able to spice them back in. I can check tomorrow where they're close to.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think you're going to be stuck replacing the whole voltage regulator. Augas's had his broken in the exact same spot. Where those screws are sticking out should be a threaded fitting like this:

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Maybe you could find a regulator that's shot and try replacing just that fitting. I don't know for sure...

It's a little blurry but that looks like the 4L80 TOSS VSS (output speed sensor). That would tie into the body harness but could be spliced into a new stand alone harness.

Top one is the electronic speedo sender so, nice! If that still has the 2 conductor Sure Seal connector on there you can use it as is and hook up an electronic speedo. If it's missing the Sure Seal, you'll need one of those. No need to worry about the messed up metal mesh wire loom around it. We're not operating HF radios or anti-IED equipment so it shouldn't interfere with the speedo. I haven't seen any issues with my homemade speedo harness that doesn't have it.

The bottom deal is the t-case indicator light switch that lights up when you shift to Low or High Lock. That just has 2 Packard connectors. Since you said your 1986 has the 4 bolt 242 already, you should have had the t-case lamp already installed and can just hook it right to that.

As far as I know there is only the one style of wire loops. The early ECVs like the M1113s still had them and they do sit lower.



You can either leave them like that or swap in the later ECV/REV hooks, if you're going to do the ECV front end on your truck.

My pleasure. I add stuff to my watch list and wait for these deals ever since you pointed out the first one.

One of the neat things that I wish was in tan is the BMI Molle seat covers, but they are only in green. These are the best fitting seat covers I have come across for highback seats. Maybe @stoner63a can incorporate how well these fit into the ones he is having made. The way they are contoured is perfect.

I am planning something similar as I have the closeout/blank plate with seal on there now. I was looking at doing a bulkhead fitting for my VSS-3 ARC light power cable and Surefire Hellfire as it would keep cable management down to a minimum vs loose cables being laid over the hatch.

Thats a good question.  Mine was an A1 and so was Ryan's, so ours were the wider loops already.  Honestly I must have never spent much time around early m998s cause until now I didn't realize the early loops were any different, but they look alot skinnier.

This is my last weekend before holiday travel, workpocalypse, and then a flippin vacation in january that I'd rather not go on.  So today I knew I had to get the insulation done and the engine installed.  Thats exactly what happened.  Tomorrow, the trans/TC, fuel tank, and if I have time I'll drop the trans pan to replace the internal harness the scrapyard broke (yay forklift operators).

Then I'll spend what time I can in the evenings hooking stuff up, figuring out more parts that I need and amassing more questions.

Pictures from today:





Started off thinking I'd coast that baby in there by myself.  Got it halfway past the airlift towers and I was hitting part of the turbo into the A frame.  the Oilpan was too tall to lower enough to just go on in, so Ryan confirmed my fears;  I'd have to tilt it.  Didn't do any of that on the way out, but there wasn't a turbo to mess with.

Wife was passing by so I enlisted her to operate the hoist while I figured this out.  She suggested we use a ratchet strap from the engine to the hoist to get a tilt and keep it.  sure enough, that worked better than lifting with my hands.  that allowed us to lower, push, lower, push, and finally we had just barely cleared the top of the intake crossover when the oil filter housing got stuck on the motor mount/driveshaft mount.  couldn't lift to get over it cause the intake was stuck under the windshield at this point.  Luckily the intake has some sturdy reusable gaskets and can be taken on and off pretty easily.  once that was done I found the hoist ran into the radiator support.  removed that, and great!

now the lift handle on the hoist bumped into the front frame crossmember. luckily, once I took the ratchet strap off, the engine leveled out and the mounts lined up with the mounts on the engine.  ended up with only 1 inch of reach to spare between the hoist lever and the frame.  Shew.  if that hadn't worked we would have had to back the whole engine out, set it down, and hooked back up to another point of the yoke.

I saw the green overruns on eBay.   I can try those after I do the LBT version, whatever solid color or camo pattern as long as I can get reasonably matching components.   I need to figure out some way to start making the truck hobby pay for itself or at least for Diesel.

Where does one find the HMMWV Engine Fixture?  Other than the $2000 HMMWV Tool Kit.

They pop up on eBay from time to time.

Search for NSN 4910-01-193-7808 or part number J33139 or HMMWV sling.

Here's one but it's missing the one leg and pin shown in this diagram:



It's been up on eBay a while so you could probably wait until the next eBay sale.

If you want a complete one RFN, Equipment Part Sales has them for $450. I would suggest contacting them directly as they will often work with you on price versus what they list stuff for.

It's also another thing you might want to inquire with Austin about as I've seen him sell them. He has lots of stuff that he doesn't have listed on eBay.

I would contact @Aguas and see if you could work a deal with him after he is done with it. I got that one and sold it to him once my engine was in.

Here's about where those AC and IGN leads tie into on the TD harness.

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It's the same spot where the thermostatic switch for the fan is on the harness (leads 458A and 458B).

By the way, the wiring diagram for the TD is in the back of 9-2320-387-24-2 under Figure FO-1 in the figures section.

My turbo harness is the corrugated/split black plastic wire loam protector with the white fiberglass covering, all taped tight with 1" aluminum tape.   The split black plastic wire loam protector is about 10ft long, but only has two blue wires in it.

Still hunting down the Niehoff N3135 male and female connectors, the regulator still has the rubber bushing with contacts secured to it with 1/3 of the male connector left.   The female connector on the pigtail was partly crushed with the rim with part number laser burned in mostly broken off.   So I'm hoping the regulator might still be salvageable.

The rest, I think the best deal is  to remove it from the block then lay it out in the sunlight, untape the white fiberglass sock, to make it easier to find where the fan sensor and other parts pulled out of, to see if it can be resoldered/shrinkwrapped and black cotton loam sleeved.

So this weekend's haul, 3 of the Turret TOW Pedestals with 2 flippy lids; a NIB Pioneer Kit with Tray for $145; Camo Green 483 1" binding tape, 1" 44368 nylon webbing and 1000d for the seat covers.

I should have mentioned, to eliminate any confusion, that is my TD harness entirely rewrapped in friction tape because I had to do exactly what you mention and strip it down to the wire.

I'll check my alternator tomorrow for that part part number on the Cannon plug if someone doesn't beat me to it.

Anyone have the part numbers for this door hinge?

Another truck with air compressor and no CTIS spindles

Now that is one thing I can't answer!

Maybe our current resident GMV build owner @Lawman734 might know?

If not, I would ask over on G503 or if you're on one of the bigger Facebook owners' groups.

Hmm I guess if I can't find those I could always use piano hinges from a FRAG1 door or maybe fab a couple of X door hinges up into one big plate like that

GMVs with onboard Air Compresors:

Night 9er posted the pic earlier asking about the door hinges.  I noticed the washer reservoir was moved inboard and a single stage air compressor bolted on its side instead.   This lit a 500 lumen bulb in my head.   My G-D original 5SFG 1995 M1025A2 GMV has two extra toggle switch positions on the dash, one for the IR Service Drive Lamp (in place of the shrouded BO Drive Lamp) and one for Air Compressor.

And I remember my washer reservoir also being moved inboard but the compressor must have been stripped for the auction.   Its seen best in the first 10 seconds of the Lot 38 video, But my GMV isn't equipped with CTIS Spindles. Attached File

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Night 9ers photo is a non ECV chassis GMV with the air compressor.  I've seen an ECV chassis GMV equiped with CTIS, with the air compressor bolted sideways to what looks like the civilian Hummer H1 shelf forward of the washer reservoir

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Nothing to technical about that, since there is no psi gauge it probably has a pop off valve.

H1 you can air up all 4 at once or front or back, I think mine has a alarm at 5psi and it has a 50psi pop off valve on the CTIS manifold.

Hey Guys,
Ryan asked that I post this info I sent to him.  These are the dimensions of some repo SF slats that I purchased.
Overall lengths are 46 ½ “ and 45 “
Thickness of the material is 1/8”

Outside (top and bottom) bends inside dimension is 1 3/4 “
Middle bend inside dimension is 2 1/16“

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Slots are centered in the bend at 1”
Width of the slot is ½”
Length of the slot is 1 1/2 “
And they are 3/8” in from the edge.

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I don't see anywhere within the truck that it ever had the CTIS plumbing or lever mechanism.   I read in "Masters of Chaos" that a C Co 1/5SFG CWO3 Brady was the Father of the GMV program.  He was some kind of offroad racing enthusiast, he did all kinds of testing in the 1990s after GW1 Scud Hunt mission was a bust and lost all but one of Bravo 2-0 and almost lost an A Team.   He had tables with vehicle GVWs, combat weights, etc with recommended tire pressure ranges for different types of terrain by weight, etc.   I've found 8 out of 10 trucks in the G-D auction that had the washer reservoir relocated.    I am wondering if the CTIS was deemed to fragile at the time, so they had air compressors on board to manually air up and down their tires as needed?

11ga steel....that's some stout manufacturing.   11gauge with those bends makes it especially structurally strong, easily hanging their rucks as well as hanging the spare MT/R or Super Swamper in the A Frame on the curbside.  Speaking of which, this is Lot #12, it has 6 bolts in the RH wheelhouse, might have been used to mount the spare tire A Frame.   Will know from an SME.
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That would be my bet.

CTIS would be cool but I don't want the added cost and complexity and time it would take to install it. I'm just going with a 24v Extreme Outback compressor I picked up new surplus and a couple Deuce air tanks tucked up in the rear fender wells.

Wouldn't mind getting all the Rod Hall suspension components off of one of those.  I know they could be adjusted for vehicle load and terrain.  I don't remember if they were adjusted by air pressure or not.  That might be what the compressors are for.  That stuff came out on vehicles after I was abolished to the CJSOTF.

You might try getting in touch with Rod Hall directly. I'm sure they're still supporting products on in service trucks and they catered heavily to the H1 scene way back, very involved.

Factory H1 Rod Hall race truck FS, it won a bunch of races back in the day.
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/h1-hummer-racetruck-trades-considered/6764695142.html

Made hot.

That's pretty awesome! I remember lusting over the Rod Hall trucks as an early teen.

I'll snag that if I win either the PowerBall or Mega Millions jackpots now (they're both over $200M and that's only when I get a single ticket).

Checking in again.  Haven't been here since page 54.  Sorry.  What'd I miss?

@JustinOK34

Everything.



My truck's running like a raped ape. Got H1 rocker protectors with Rubber Duck Rock Tubes to install and some X-doors on the way. Already got a list of stuff for Spring. Still waiting on a decent snow storm to play in.

Augas painted his truck and is doing a turbo swap which he's on the downslope of.

Jake's truck is on the road again.

FKAM is doing awesome on his GMV build.

stoner63a is doing a turbo swap in one truck and bought an actual M1025 GMV.

See what you miss when you don't hang out with the cool kids!

@stoner63a

Was just doing some late night browsing of stuff Austin has and found he's got the piece missing from that engine sling above.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202374679691

So there you go, complete engine sling!

Cool, hopefully I can catch up tomorrow.

had a slow summer and fall, so naturally when i get the truck apart work projects all come ready at the same time.

and holiday travel.  and a vacation.  i wont get back to the truck till saturday.

as i left it thursday evening:



got the exhaust together and the fuel tank back in before i had to hang it up.  noticed i left the vent plug hanging beside the tank when i got done attaching the fill neck.  yay!

gotta get the radiator attended to, need a power steering hose made, and pop in the trans harness and i guess its about ready.

I wound up getting the red Allison J33139 HMMWV Engine Sling for $125 plus freight.

I also got two sets NIB Pioneer Tools with Trays, including the A2 Airlift Bumper Brackets for $160 shipped each.

For now, I'm just assembling the rest of the hardware, Gr8 bolts, etc to complete two M1025A2 tin roof with turret kits.

StudentDriver convinced me my truck had the  rollbar-style C Pillar, so I was on the hunt for one of those, found one with the 3 spoons for the M1025 tin roof and the M1025 Weapons Support.  Then was told that tubing side panel kit with Delta uprights was an Ibistek product, did some asking around, found NIB tubing side panel kit, but, its an MSG product that will only fit the rollbar with angled supports that go about halfway up.   So to restore the original M1025A2 GMV, I would need to buy a 3rd C Pillar plus the MSG tubing sides kit, then resell the rollbar Charlie Pillar.    That leaves the original GMV Charlie Pillar made from cut down sponsons, that I can either put on the 1986 M998 Helmethead > M1025R1>GMV or put a repro Charlie Pillar on the 86 and offer the original GMV pillar to somebody restoring a G-D M1025A2 GMV.

Did anybody else look at the M1025A2 with rollbar Charlie Pillar on ebay for $55,000  ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AM-General-/163444648060?&;_trksid=p2056016.l4276

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I’m on the market for a GMV c pillar so if you decide to get rid of the roll bar one, or maybe even the cut sponsons let me know

Well...after deciding I didn't want to get the BMI seat covers, I did it anyway.  I had some MOLLE covers that were on another civ truck but they never fit as well as these BMI ones do.  The main thing I liked about them over the BMI ones is they had a portion covering the seat.  I always say - "Never say Never!"

My old ones:
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The BMI's:
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Still have the issue tho, of the swing arm mounts taking up some space.  But it's a good problem, the swing arms are a must for me!
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