Removing the barrel from my Ruger Precision Rifle.  The action is turning along with the barrel nut.  I had the barrel in a barrel vise.  The nut was already close to the flange of the barrel and after only 1/4 turn or less, it’s completely against it.  What’s the best course of action now?  Could I get a seekins action wrench and loosen the action by turning the action wrench?  Looks like the action wrench is meant to be held in a vise while the barrel nut is turned but with the nut up against the barrel flange, it may not loosen.  I’m stepping away from it for a while so I don’t screw anything up.  Suggestions?

Here's what I do and I've done 4 barrels already. From new guns to a rifle with 1500 rounds through it.

Keep the stock on the receiver and unlock it. Turn it at 90 deg from your barrel and have someone put some pressure on it while you turn the barrel nut.

Don't go overboard pushing on stock. I only had to do this with one of the rifles the others the action spun right off.

Hope this made some sense. Worked for me anyway.

YMMV

Makes perfect sense.  But with the barrel nut already agains the flange, I’m not sure that’s an option now.  For the nut to loosen anymore, the barrel would have to turn also.  That’s why I’m thinking I need loosen the action from the barrel nut instead of the barrel nut from the action if that makes sense.

I’ve decided to order the Seekins Action rod and give that a try.  I don’t see how it would be any different than using an internal action wrench on a Remington 700.  I’ll put the barrel in the barrel vise, have someone hold the barrel nut wrench tight and I’ll turn the action with the action rod.  Action rod should be here Friday.

I forgot to update this thread with my results.  It worked.  With the barrel in a barrel vise, I had a friend turn the action rod with a wrench while I turned the barrel nut.  We turned both in the same direction just enough to back the barrel nut away from the flange on the barrel.  Then, I had him hold opposite pressure on the action rod while I loosened the barrel nut.  Worked perfectly!

A few things I learned along the way.  1. Have someone hold the action while you loosen the barrel nut.  2. Ruger puts the factory barrels on TIGHT.  Use a good barrel nut wrench.  I bent the pegs on my Brownells armorer’s wrench.  Ended up buying the LRI wrench and had to use a 3’ pipe on a breaker bar to get the nut loose.  The LRI wrench isn’t cheap but if you damage the barrel nut you’re not getting another one.  Ruger considers the nut a factory installed part and will not sell you another.

I just took the factory barrel off of my RPR a couple of days ago. I put the barrel in a Viper barrel vice. Used my Tapco armorers wrench. Took a 2lb sledge and gave the armorers wrench two medium effort taps and the nut came loose. Spun the action off and cleaned up all the grease on the threads from the factory. When working in cars a lot of times you have to use impact as a method to loosening many bolts. I think that is the key to removing RPR barrel nuts. Impact trumps leverage in this case. Glad mine came off easier than yours. From your story seems like you had a special case with the action turning with the nut. Glad you got it off!

I agree with that.  I don’t think the action would have turned if I did things the way you described.  Turning the nut slowly doesn’t overcome the friction between the nut and the action, causing them to turn together.  That’s another good reason to get the LRI wrench.  I thought of using a hammer from the start but was afraid the wrench I had would slip and I’d damage the nut.  There’s no chance the LRI wrench would slip off.  It’s not a cheap tool but I can use it on my ARs too.  Lessons learned.

Anarchy outdoors has a reaction rod for the RPR, same as the ones Geiselle makes for ARs.  This thing is like having a 3rd hand and I can not recommend it enough.

They go on sale pretty often, get one and be done with it.  Before getting one of these, it was vice with aluminum V-jaws on the barrel to remove/install.  What a pain in the ass that was.

Also, for reassembly, I put no grease what so ever on the receiver to barrel threads, but grease the hell out of the nut to barrel threads and receiver face.  Barrel does not turn during tightening and headspace stays where i want it to every time.

Seekins has an action rod too. I used it when I swapped the rail out. Worked good.

Thanks guys.  Kreiger is making drop-in RPR barrels.  The action rod seems like the way to go.

I just took my factory barrel off and put it back on.

Put the Seekins action rod in the vise and slid the action on making sure the lugs were engaged by the action rod. Using a Magpul barrel wrench and a breaker bar it came off like nothing.

I cleaned everything up, lubed it all up, headspaced it, and put it all back together. Interesting thing was it shot 2.5 mils higher than before.