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Posted: 7/17/2017 11:49:49 PM EDT
I picked up one of those Wheeler Level-Level-Level kits from the LGS.
I used it on the flat top of my AR upper and got that level. I then moved the rifle level to the inside of the receiver, resting on what I thought were the rails inside the upper. There was a noticeable difference in the bubble location between the inside rails and the upper. Thinking the inside mounting was a big funky I moved it back to the top of the rails. At that point I didnt have a lot of confidence so I went to the old fashioned method of using a carpenters level and hanging a string on the far end of the room. But it got me wondering how people are leveling their reticles. I mean in a long range precision game everything makes a difference, and if you are dialing in dope if your reticle isnt dead bang you'll be dialing in dope and dialing in errors at the same time. (Which certainly lends to the argument to do the scope box test). So whats the trick to getting dead bang reticle to rifle? Looking for advice, tools or otherwise a good method to use. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 7/18/2017 1:15:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#1]
Originally Posted By 2JokersWild:
... So whats the trick to getting dead bang reticle to rifle? There is no need for dead bang reticle to rifle... there might be a need for dead bang reticle to gravity! I use a plumb line and a scope tube bubble level. There's a recent thread here that goes into details... I can't seem to find it but perhaps someone will post a link... 
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MS, USA
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Posted: 7/18/2017 8:26:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: MS556]
[#2]
I just use a simple bubble level. I put it on top of the rail and level the rifle in a padded bench vise. Then with the rifle locked in place I do the same thing with the level sitting on top of the elevation turret.
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Posted: 7/18/2017 9:00:35 AM EDT
[#3]
I use my iphone's carpenter level app. Level the upper rail in a vise first, snug down the scope mount bases to the rail, then calibrate the app to zero setting at the upper rail orientation. Align the scope by placing the phone on the elevation cap and rotate/tighten the tube until zero setting, which matches rail, is achieved. This method of course assumes the retical was installed properly in the scope at the factory and is square in the tube relative to the adjustment cover caps. The scope tube will shift/rotate when tightening the tube clamps so it takes a few iterations of tightening and loosening to get the final alignment fixed. Not perfect science, but less than one-tenth degree difference between scope and upper alignment is sufficient for my needs.
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USA
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Posted: 7/18/2017 9:51:15 AM EDT
[#4]
As mentioned before... First, level the rifle. For the optic... I use a 1" line level on top of the elevation turret to make sure scope tube level & a plumb-line hanging from ceiling to make sure reticle is aligned. Tighten rings in a cross pattern slowly & make sure scope isnt rotating in rings. Dont over torque anything.
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Posted: 7/18/2017 10:53:48 AM EDT
[#5]
I use the feeler gauge method.
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Posted: 7/18/2017 11:19:23 AM EDT
[#6]
Originally Posted By 2JokersWild:
I picked up one of those Wheeler Level-Level-Level kits from the LGS. http://i.imgur.com/Dk832qV.jpg I used it on the flat top of my AR upper and got that level. I then moved the rifle level to the inside of the receiver, resting on what I thought were the rails inside the upper. There was a noticeable difference in the bubble location between the inside rails and the upper. Thinking the inside mounting was a big funky I moved it back to the top of the rails. At that point I didnt have a lot of confidence so I went to the old fashioned method of using a carpenters level and hanging a string on the far end of the room. But it got me wondering how people are leveling their reticles. I mean in a long range precision game everything makes a difference, and if you are dialing in dope if your reticle isnt dead bang you'll be dialing in dope and dialing in errors at the same time. (Which certainly lends to the argument to do the scope box test). So whats the trick to getting dead bang reticle to rifle? Looking for advice, tools or otherwise a good method to use. Wheeler makes a different set of levels that has a barrel clamp. That's the better set to get. I have both. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 7/18/2017 12:59:59 PM EDT
[#7]
Arisaka optic leveler if it's suitable for use with your mount and scope. You need a flat top on the mount, base on the scope and enough clearance to get the tool between them. I usually check after installation with a level and a plumb line, but I've never had to make any post install adjustments after using the Arisaka tool.
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Posted: 7/19/2017 8:12:27 AM EDT
[#8]
I have some small bubble level tubes that came with some HD picture frame hanging brackets.
similar to these 
I set one on an open rail groove to level the rifle. Then I do the plumb line method with a flashlight pointing through the objective |
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USA
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Posted: 7/19/2017 5:19:45 PM EDT
[#9]
i bought the Wheeler level level level kit. lost some confidence when i put the 2 levels next to each other on a flat surface and they didn't have the same indication.
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Posted: 7/19/2017 6:25:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
Arisaka optic leveler if it's suitable for use with your mount and scope. You need a flat top on the mount, base on the scope and enough clearance to get the tool between them. I usually check after installation with a level and a plumb line, but I've never had to make any post install adjustments after using the Arisaka tool. I just leveled a NF the other day and it was too easy. Can't believe I've never used one sooner. |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 7:57:57 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Torchy:
Basically this OP. You can buy them on Amazon for cheap too. I just leveled a NF the other day and it was too easy. Can't believe I've never used one sooner. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Torchy:
Originally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
Arisaka optic leveler if it's suitable for use with your mount and scope. You need a flat top on the mount, base on the scope and enough clearance to get the tool between them. I usually check after installation with a level and a plumb line, but I've never had to make any post install adjustments after using the Arisaka tool. I just leveled a NF the other day and it was too easy. Can't believe I've never used one sooner. |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 7:59:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Feeler gauges then set my level to a plumb line
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Posted: 7/19/2017 9:59:43 PM EDT
[#13]
I use the bubble tubes that I removed from an old level.
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Posted: 7/19/2017 10:13:04 PM EDT
[#14]
level on rail, scope and a level line on my shed.
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Posted: 7/20/2017 1:13:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheQuadfather]
[#15]
I've been using a US Optics rail mounted level and a tall tower about two miles away.
Not sure if the tower is level, but it's close enough. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 7/21/2017 12:17:56 PM EDT
[#16]
I level the gun in a vise. Then I have a make a level mark on the wall to level the reticle to.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/21/2017 1:19:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JJREA]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hamiltbl2:
I level the gun in a vise. Then I have a make a level mark on the wall to level the reticle to. It's not always perfect though. I think sometimes the gun moves. A good way to do it is outside and drop some string from a tree limb with something a bit heavier tied to the bottom. As long as there is no wind. Or I guess just do the sting trick inside. |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 7/23/2017 1:02:50 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RoadieWingZ:
I use my iphone's carpenter level app. Level the upper rail in a vise first, snug down the scope mount bases to the rail, then calibrate the app to zero setting at the upper rail orientation. Align the scope by placing the phone on the elevation cap and rotate/tighten the tube until zero setting, which matches rail, is achieved. This method of course assumes the retical was installed properly in the scope at the factory and is square in the tube relative to the adjustment cover caps. The scope tube will shift/rotate when tightening the tube clamps so it takes a few iterations of tightening and loosening to get the final alignment fixed. Not perfect science, but less than one-tenth degree difference between scope and upper alignment is sufficient for my needs. I use two Iphones simultaneously. One on the rail and one on the scope elevation cap. Verify by making sure gun and scope are level when done with the dual Iphones and aim at a plum line with your reticle to confirm everything is in sync and lined up. the level app is found by opening your compass and swiping left. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 7/24/2017 7:48:08 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
Arisaka optic leveler if it's suitable for use with your mount and scope. You need a flat top on the mount, base on the scope and enough clearance to get the tool between them. I usually check after installation with a level and a plumb line, but I've never had to make any post install adjustments after using the Arisaka tool. |
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USA
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Posted: 7/24/2017 8:26:43 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By strat81:
I use the feeler gauge method. Turret housing. This is assuming the maker has the damn reticle in straight. Leupold likes to call tilted reticles "in spec". |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 7/24/2017 5:08:36 PM EDT
[#21]
That thread that I alluded to earlier >>> Scope leveling with a deck of cards!... Enjoy!
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Posted: 7/25/2017 12:33:12 AM EDT
[#22]
Wheeler Pro level kit with the barrel clamp.
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Posted: 7/26/2017 8:53:20 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Et2ss:
I have some small bubble level tubes that came with some HD picture frame hanging brackets. similar to these http://image.dhgate.com/albu_225071605_00/1.0x0.jpg I set one on an open rail groove to level the rifle. Then I do the plumb line method with a flashlight pointing through the objective |
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Posted: 7/26/2017 10:31:11 PM EDT
[#24]
I usually just use a bubble level.
On my RPR, I got a spuhr mount that has a bubble in the mount and has a tapered shim kit similar to the ariska kit. It worked really well. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/27/2017 1:40:52 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sogan:
Never heard of the flashlight technique. Can you further explain this? Let's presume shining the flashlight through the scope might project the reticle on the wall where it's verticality could be assessed. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 4:31:03 AM EDT
[#26]
I use a bubble level on the rail and lock it into a vice and then use a plumb level to align the reticle. Been using that method for close to ten years and it's never failed me personally.
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Posted: 7/28/2017 11:37:12 PM EDT
[#27]
I use basically the same method, my plumb line is a tower two miles away. The only time that can be a problem is if the top of the rail is not perpendicular to the center line of the bore. I have seen an AR upper that was crooked, have heard of scope mounting holes on bolt actions not being at top dead center.
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Posted: 7/31/2017 12:53:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Defender3]
[#28]
Originally Posted By Sogan:
Originally Posted By Et2ss:
I have some small bubble level tubes that came with some HD picture frame hanging brackets. similar to these http://image.dhgate.com/albu_225071605_00/1.0x0.jpg I set one on an open rail groove to level the rifle. Then I do the plumb line method with a flashlight pointing through the objective Level the rifle. Shine a light back through the eyepiece, adjust. 
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NJ, USA
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Posted: 7/31/2017 3:23:48 PM EDT
[#29]
^ Never seen that before. I like it!
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Posted: 7/31/2017 3:26:24 PM EDT
[#30]
I have a Wheeler level-level-level kit, and I'm surprised at just how often it can be considerably off.
What I've mostly settled on is getting the *rifle* level, then looking through the scope (be it forwards or backwards) at a plumb bob. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/3/2017 9:39:13 PM EDT
[#31]
I just mounted a new 16x SS on Monday. I locked the rifle in a gun vice and used a bubble level then mounted the scope and used the same method with the bubble level and also sighted it at a near by building that I checked the corner with a 6' level to confirm it was square. Got it all mounted then used a laser site to bore site it in.
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Posted: 8/5/2017 3:14:15 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kingoftheroad:
I use the bubble tubes that I removed from an old level. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 1:15:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: boy-scout]
[#33]
This. Just make sure you have enough space between your rail, and the bottom of the scope.
 
Or this Scope leveler Feeler gauge method works good as well. Keep it simple. Don't over think/complicate. Bringing gravity into to equation is unnecessary. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 8/6/2017 9:41:49 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Defender3:
Hang a plumb line. Level the rifle. Shine a light back through the eyepiece, adjust. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4877-216403.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4878-216404.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4880-216405.jpg |
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Posted: 8/14/2017 3:39:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DaveS]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Defender3:
Hang a plumb line. Level the rifle. Shine a light back through the eyepiece, adjust. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4877-216403.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4878-216404.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4880-216405.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Defender3:
Originally Posted By Sogan:
Originally Posted By Et2ss:
I have some small bubble level tubes that came with some HD picture frame hanging brackets. similar to these http://image.dhgate.com/albu_225071605_00/1.0x0.jpg I set one on an open rail groove to level the rifle. Then I do the plumb line method with a flashlight pointing through the objective Level the rifle. Shine a light back through the eyepiece, adjust. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4877-216403.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4878-216404.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-4880-216405.jpg I like to start out with 
From Their Site And see what my tolerance stacking shows me [@ the 100yd line by running my elevation knob] from using: A) ArmaLite, Spikes, VLTOR uppers B) LaRue Mounts C) Scopes from manufacturers that are known to have the reticles level in the tube Some Moar Leveling Info And Even MOAR Info BUTT!!! You would be surprised at what just $37.00 would do in your shooting universe. Hey boy-scout, I going to scope out that Starrett Set. Thank you. Best to all. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/19/2017 7:16:46 AM EDT
[#36]
1. You don't level the retcle, you level the elevation.
A canted reticle that tracks is better than a level reticle with the elevation mechanism than is canted. You need to level the gun, track on a vertical plumb line and watch as you dial elevation. No matter how level your reticle or scope body is, all that matters is the vertical tracking. 2. I use Arisaka scope leveler and Wheeler leveler to start. Track plumb line at 100 later. |
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Posted: 10/15/2017 11:55:06 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By strat81:
I use the feeler gauge method. 
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Posted: 10/16/2017 12:07:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: pcsutton]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By boy-scout:
This. Just make sure you have enough space between your rail, and the bottom of the scope. www.amazon.com/dp/B0006J4E5COr this Scope leveler Feeler gauge method works good as well. Keep it simple. Don't over think/complicate. Bringing gravity into to equation is unnecessary. I generally don't buy WalMart optics for my guns, so I've never seen a reticle that's canted in relation to the scope body. Aligning the flat surface on the bottom of the reticle housing to the top of the gun's rail is dead nuts aligned. A feeler gauge does the trick just fine. |
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Posted: 10/16/2017 8:31:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Et2ss]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sogan:
Never heard of the flashlight technique. Can you further explain this? Level the receiver rail. Shine a flashlight down the front of the scope (a sun shield helps immensely with this as the flashlight can lay in there). You will see the reticle projected (albeit upside down) on the wall. Twist the scope until the reticle lines up with the plumb line. Torque the ring screws, assuring they don't twist the reticle out of plumb. Easy peasy The feeler gauge method is quick and easy IF the reticle is plumb with the bottom of the scope AND your scope has flats on the bottom The flashlight/plumb line method is universal, gravity doesn't lie |
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Posted: 10/16/2017 9:12:22 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
Arisaka optic leveler if it's suitable for use with your mount and scope. You need a flat top on the mount, base on the scope and enough clearance to get the tool between them. I usually check after installation with a level and a plumb line, but I've never had to make any post install adjustments after using the Arisaka tool. |
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