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Posted: 3/11/2016 5:21:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
I was wondering when the Magpul setup came on the market if the magwell and mag would work with the H and S Precision Remington stocks. The mag and magwell were recently $77 and I saw on a couple other forums that people had successfully done this.
So I bought it and inletted it today. I drew a circle around the area where you have to remove a significant amount of aluminum from the front bedding block. I used a coarse carbide burr in an air tool to accomplish this. The arrows point to the area where you have to widen the stock a bit for this to fit. The area surrounding the trigger and around the front screw don't need to be touched. I have a Timney trigger installed and it fit just fine with no alterations. Well, it fits and feeds well. I am taking it to the range in a few minutes. I have M80 ball loaded in the mag. https://www.magpul.com/products/hunter-700-stock-remington-700-short-action My 700 LTR: I think the Magpul stock is a bit ugly, but would have bought it if this didn't work out. Sometimes ugly can grow on you..... Providing there are no surprises at the range, I will need to get another three mags. This is a hell of a cheap way to add a mag feed that works to your Remington. Short and long action versions are available. It is 85 degrees outside and I have stew cooking in the crockpot. |
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Ignorance is not a point of view.
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I was talking to a friend about this today. I have a rem 5r with a HS precision stock.
Do you have pics of the inletting? Ho does it fit around the screws? Externally how does it look from the bottom? Does the magwell come in FDE or OD green? |
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Originally Posted By gotigers:
I was talking to a friend about this today. I have a rem 5r with a HS precision stock. Do you have pics of the inletting? Ho does it fit around the screws? Externally how does it look from the bottom? Does the magwell come in FDE or OD green? View Quote Excellent. I opted to remove material from the MP part instead of the pillar bedding. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_16_3/3153_Magpul_DBM_on_a_non_Magpul_stock____I_made_it_work____.html It's a very easy task, if you go slow and check fitment every so often. |
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
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It fits like factory around the screws. It worked fine at the range with the M80 ball and with my 168gr SMK reloads. I am pleased with it. The mag drops free empty or full.
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Ignorance is not a point of view.
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Originally Posted By wildearp:
It fits like factory around the screws. It worked fine at the range with the M80 ball and with my 168gr SMK reloads. I am pleased with it. The mag drops free empty or full. View Quote That's all that matters. IMO the task of inletting a stock (for this purpose) is so easy it seems intimidating to the novice. |
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
NRA member and I VOTE |
Originally Posted By jim: Excellent. I opted to remove material from the MP part instead of the pillar bedding. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2409_zps5baxjube.jpg http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2407_zps21kjlogv.jpg http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2416_zpsb0bc6hq6.jpg http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_16_3/3153_Magpul_DBM_on_a_non_Magpul_stock____I_made_it_work____.html It's a very easy task, if you go slow and check fitment every so often. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jim: Originally Posted By gotigers: I was talking to a friend about this today. I have a rem 5r with a HS precision stock. Do you have pics of the inletting? Ho does it fit around the screws? Externally how does it look from the bottom? Does the magwell come in FDE or OD green? Excellent. I opted to remove material from the MP part instead of the pillar bedding. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2409_zps5baxjube.jpg http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2407_zps21kjlogv.jpg http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2416_zpsb0bc6hq6.jpg http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_16_3/3153_Magpul_DBM_on_a_non_Magpul_stock____I_made_it_work____.html It's a very easy task, if you go slow and check fitment every so often. I also dusted off my M1a for some off hand shooting at 100. I watched a guy shooting his Garand at 25 from a bench rest. I was walking it out to 200 when I realized I didn't have the proper 200Y frame on the last string of fire. Dammit. My PSA .308 didn't miss a beat. Now I have to reload some cases.............. |
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Ignorance is not a point of view.
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Ive been wondering about this myself. I want to try it in my Bell and Carlson stock. With it being plastic how touch is it?
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Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
Ive been wondering about this myself. I want to try it in my Bell and Carlson stock. With it being plastic how touch is it? View Quote Take your time and go for it. It's plastic. Nothing some bondo can't fix. Now if you do mess it up, consider picking up a take off stock and working with that. |
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
NRA member and I VOTE |
I just finished fitting one into the Hogue stock on my aac-sd. I took my time, only cutting/sanding what was absolutely necessary & doing a lot of trial fitting, and it came out looking like it came from the the factory that way. I think I spent about 2.5 hours on it, start to finish.
It also greatly helped function, too. From the factory, the gun didn't feed worth a shit, the first round being nearly impossible to chamber. With the Magpul magwell & mag, feeding is super-smooth. This thread is what gave me the idea in the first place...thanks, OP! No pics yet. The bottom metal & mag are drying, having just been sprayed to match the tier-000 HSLD paint job on the rest of the gun. |
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Originally Posted By Zardoz:
I just finished fitting one into the Hogue stock on my aac-sd. I took my time, only cutting/sanding what was absolutely necessary & doing a lot of trial fitting, and it came out looking like it came from the the factory that way. I think I spent about 2.5 hours on it, start to finish. It also greatly helped function, too. From the factory, the gun didn't feed worth a shit, the first round being nearly impossible to chamber. With the Magpul magwell & mag, feeding is super-smooth. This thread is what gave me the idea in the first place...thanks, OP! No pics yet. The bottom metal & mag are drying, having just been sprayed to match the tier-000 HSLD paint job on the rest of the gun. View Quote Pics please. Got a hogue stock and wanting to do the same thing. |
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I fit the Magpul magwell to the stock on my 700 5-R this weekend. Took about three hours using files and a Dremel with a sanding drum.
I ended up cutting off the front and rear guides with no ill-effects to function. Cycling video Edited to add pictures of the DBM itself: |
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Nice upgrade guys. Interesting how everyone does it just a bit differently than those before you. Yet achieve the same result. What a difference a $60+ upgrade makes to a factory stock.
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
NRA member and I VOTE |
This is the best thread I've seen this year.
Thanks guys. I'm going to get one ordered and do the same. ETA $59. Done. |
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"A man's soul can be judged by the way he treats his dog."
NorCal_LEO call sign: Tag Comrade Sniper of the Glorious People's .40 S&W Army |
Finally started on this tonight. I think I'm about halfway there. I'll post pics when done.
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"A man's soul can be judged by the way he treats his dog."
NorCal_LEO call sign: Tag Comrade Sniper of the Glorious People's .40 S&W Army |
So are all of these rifles feeding now?
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Children are the most complex creations made by unskilled labor.
NRA member and I VOTE |
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now? View Quote Mine worked great I did a Hogue take off stock. I also stiffened the fore-end by epoxying two 3/16 pieces of steel rod in it. It actually worked really well I ended up getting a great deal on a hunter stock so I swapped my action over |
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Originally Posted By SERVED_USMC: Poor people are gross
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That's good, I plan on ordering some magpul bottom metal soon for bell and Carlson stock.
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"A man's soul can be judged by the way he treats his dog."
NorCal_LEO call sign: Tag Comrade Sniper of the Glorious People's .40 S&W Army |
Originally Posted By Dash_ISpy:
Mine works great now. Both 5 and 10 rounders. http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz326/dasharfcom/Mobile%20Uploads/73248FBC-15E7-4A28-97D7-A3C53BA08915_zpsfxpawkpz.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Dash_ISpy:
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now? Mine works great now. Both 5 and 10 rounders. http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz326/dasharfcom/Mobile%20Uploads/73248FBC-15E7-4A28-97D7-A3C53BA08915_zpsfxpawkpz.jpg Heck yeah, finally anot affordable magazine system. And the mags are half the price of other ones. |
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Originally Posted By Engineer: No problems with mine either. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Engineer: Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04: So are all of these rifles feeding now? No problems with mine either. None with mine either, and mine is chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. The only slight issue is if I cut the tab to allow 6 rounds the 6th is way too tight for my liking. I'm assuming it's due to the minimal taper of the case on the 6.5 Creedmoor compared to the .308 Win it's designed for. Oh well, I'm not going to lose any sleep over only being able to fit 6 rounds in instead of 5. I just need to make sure I don't accidentally grab the 6rd mag when I'm hunting. |
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With enough Kentucky Jelly you can park a Winnebago in a garden shed. I'm sure she has no problems. -Banjaxed
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Got my 700P done today,works great.Thanks all.
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Wrap it in bacon I'll eat it !!
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Looks great guys.
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OST. Have a kit coming my way and thinking of a good weekend project.
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Do kids still play Cops and Robbers, or are they just taught both are equally bad and given a participation ribbon after a rousing game of scoreless Everyone's a Winner Ball? - BehindBlueI's
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Originally Posted By Nmbmxer:
I fit one into the 40X stock on my 700 a couple weeks back. I milled down the front pillar 3/32 or so and removed some material between the trigger and magazine cutouts. I didn't cut the tabs/guides off the bottom metal (plastic) as I think they support the magazine front to back. I did trim off the little tabs on the sides. Works great even if the plastic is out of place on my wood stock... http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/WBDIV/Misc/IMG_2337.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/WBDIV/Misc/IMG_2335.jpg View Quote That looks amazing. Can you take a whole rifle picture to see how it looks overall? |
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http://www.cato.org/raidmap/
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Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock. Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place.
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Do kids still play Cops and Robbers, or are they just taught both are equally bad and given a participation ribbon after a rousing game of scoreless Everyone's a Winner Ball? - BehindBlueI's
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Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock. Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place. View Quote What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear. |
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Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger. I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other. I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!). Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers. I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard. Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard. <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a> View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock. Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place. What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear. As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger. I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other. I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!). Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers. I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard. Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard. <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a> Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue? |
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Originally Posted By Tmender03: Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Tmender03: Originally Posted By jblomenberg16: Originally Posted By Tmender03: Originally Posted By jblomenberg16: Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock. Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place. What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear. As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger. I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other. I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!). Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers. I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard. Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard. <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a> Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue? The spacing doesn't seem right. The front looks like it's screwed in too much and pulling the DBM up at an angle, causing the trigger to contact the trigger guard. |
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Originally Posted By Engineer:
The spacing doesn't seem right. The front looks like it's screwed in too much and pulling the DBM up at an angle, causing the trigger to contact the trigger guard. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Engineer:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock. Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place. What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear. As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger. I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other. I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!). Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers. I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard. Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard. <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a> <a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a> Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue? The spacing doesn't seem right. The front looks like it's screwed in too much and pulling the DBM up at an angle, causing the trigger to contact the trigger guard. I agree. If I remove the front screw and rotate it towards the rear I can get enough clearance to operate the trigger, but that puts the front screw about 1/4 of a hole too far back to be able to get started. I've also run the rear screw in a lot tighter without the front screw and the trigger just wants to dive right into the trigger guard. The holes in the plastic appear to be free of flash or burrs, but I'm wondering if that is what it is. I'll try to get a few measurements off the holes with some calipers too just to make sure there isn't a big difference. Since I'm going to be most likely removing some material from the rest of the bottom "metal" anyway I'm not opposed to opening up or elongating the forward hole just a bit. But if I'm going to do that I may as well relieve the trigger guard a bit as well. |
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Do kids still play Cops and Robbers, or are they just taught both are equally bad and given a participation ribbon after a rousing game of scoreless Everyone's a Winner Ball? - BehindBlueI's
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Originally Posted By jblomenberg16: I agree. If I remove the front screw and rotate it towards the rear I can get enough clearance to operate the trigger, but that puts the front screw about 1/4 of a hole too far back to be able to get started. I've also run the rear screw in a lot tighter without the front screw and the trigger just wants to dive right into the trigger guard. The holes in the plastic appear to be free of flash or burrs, but I'm wondering if that is what it is. I'll try to get a few measurements off the holes with some calipers too just to make sure there isn't a big difference. Since I'm going to be most likely removing some material from the rest of the bottom "metal" anyway I'm not opposed to opening up or elongating the forward hole just a bit. But if I'm going to do that I may as well relieve the trigger guard a bit as well. View Quote Are you cutting the vertical mag guides? Those get in the way unless you plan on opening up the stock quite a bit more. Does the Magpul DBM match up with the stock bottom metal hole spacing? |
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Originally Posted By Engineer:
Are you cutting the vertical mag guides? Those get in the way unless you plan on opening up the stock quite a bit more. Does the Magpul DBM match up with the stock bottom metal hole spacing? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Engineer:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
I agree. If I remove the front screw and rotate it towards the rear I can get enough clearance to operate the trigger, but that puts the front screw about 1/4 of a hole too far back to be able to get started. I've also run the rear screw in a lot tighter without the front screw and the trigger just wants to dive right into the trigger guard. The holes in the plastic appear to be free of flash or burrs, but I'm wondering if that is what it is. I'll try to get a few measurements off the holes with some calipers too just to make sure there isn't a big difference. Since I'm going to be most likely removing some material from the rest of the bottom "metal" anyway I'm not opposed to opening up or elongating the forward hole just a bit. But if I'm going to do that I may as well relieve the trigger guard a bit as well. Are you cutting the vertical mag guides? Those get in the way unless you plan on opening up the stock quite a bit more. Does the Magpul DBM match up with the stock bottom metal hole spacing? Plan is to remove most of the front guide so I don't get into the aluminum bedding of the stock . I beleive the rifle to be a Rem 700 P LTR, so it does have a factory bedded stock (think it is H-S precision). I did notice that the rear screw does bind a bit in the metal insert that is pressed into the plastic body. I think that is my problem. I'm going to go ahead and start inletting the stock a bit and then if I have to I may go in and just kiss that rear hole enough to get a bit more clearance. I'll probably remove a little material to give the trigger a bit of relief just to prevent it touching as I pull through. This is my first Rem 700, and I'm used to either the savage accutrigger or USGI 2 stage triggers on my M1's and M1a, that have a lot more travel. This trigger barely moves and does have a crisp break to it. |
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Do kids still play Cops and Robbers, or are they just taught both are equally bad and given a participation ribbon after a rousing game of scoreless Everyone's a Winner Ball? - BehindBlueI's
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Originally Posted By jim: Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04: So are all of these rifles feeding now? I had no issues. My photo shows the standard Timney trigger with no special fitting required. Those photos of the wood stock installation are really sexy. Don't forget to properly torque and loctite the action screws. Check them again after 25-50 rounds down range. |
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Ignorance is not a point of view.
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Realized that round one feeds fine but subsequent rounds hit and don't feed properly on my second build. I think I need to inlet more.
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"A man's soul can be judged by the way he treats his dog."
NorCal_LEO call sign: Tag Comrade Sniper of the Glorious People's .40 S&W Army |
Originally Posted By Dash_ISpy: Realized that round one feeds fine but subsequent rounds hit and don't feed properly on my second build. I think I need to inlet more. View Quote |
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Ignorance is not a point of view.
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NRA-ILA/NRA Benefactor
Be the man your dog thinks you are. |
I want magpul to do a run of lefty ones. But that won't happen.
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I need a gunsmith that will do this work on my 700 PSS, any recommendations? |
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A socialist may indeed be academically superior.
And yet, they are most certainly emotionally retarded. Minion of Snow #006 Public education is the opiate of the masses. |
I just sold my HS Precision stock and bought the Magpul stock. It seemed like the easier thing to do. Got enough out of it to buy the Magpul stock, Magazine conversion and an extra mag. Now I have a stock with an adjustable butt and a somewhat adjustable cheekpiece......The gun shoots as good as it ever did, maybe better with two loads that were Meh before.....
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I just did this on a greyboe renegade stock. Is everyone elses screws running shorter than before? Mine are are showing 2-3 threads in the receiver, I may need to remove some shims I added to get mag lock. Other than that it worked great. I actually used a stock made for a badger bottom metal, so I have just alittle bedding to do here and there. I will take pics when I finish getting it cleaned up. I am waiting on MDT mags since I am running .223, I don't know if that will make a difference as well.
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Originally Posted By gotigers:
I finally got around to installing a Magpul DBM on my Rem 700 5R .308. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I hand filed most of the work on the stock, gently used a round dremel sand drum on the radii and cut the front internal tab off the DBM. I have a few small chips off the finish, but overall my lines are fairly straight with minimal gap. The mag fits easily. Cartridges feed and eject as required. I wish I had done this 6 months ago. I am very happy with it. Now I need to get a real bolt knob installed. Edit: the jewel trigger has plenty of room. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/50_BMG/Rem%20700%205R%20308/MDBM3_zpssqqefrld.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/50_BMG/Rem%20700%205R%20308/MDBM2_zpshewm779l.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/50_BMG/Rem%20700%205R%20308/MDBM1_zpsdoui9ovx.jpg View Quote You can hacksaw or Dremil down your factory bolt knob into a basic square protrusion, measuring it to the size you need to run a proper thread die. After getting the basic square, you can then round off the corners to proper size and then run the die. Thread on your Badger bolt knob. Tape off anything you don't want to hit if the tool slips. |
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We President now!
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The Magpul bottom "metal" is polymer, right? Are there any chance in loss of accuracy due to this?
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Originally Posted By Hunter660:
The Magpul bottom "metal" is polymer, right? Are there any chance in loss of accuracy due to this? View Quote I can't conceivably think of any way it could effect accuracy. Once the bolt has chased the round into the chamber, the bottom metal is entirely independent of the firing sequence/setup. Now, during installation, if you have to remove aluminum to bed the bottom metal to the stock, you might lose some rigidity and thus accuracy. So long as the core of your stock has not been altered during installation and the bottom metal reliably feeds rounds, I think you should be G2G. |
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