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Posted: 11/23/2011 2:43:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EdwardAvila]
I'm trying to get back into bow hunting and was given a older bow for doing some tree work... see previous thread regarding Diamond cams.

Anyway, I'm having trouble getting the sight to stay put.. or at least I think I am..
I adjust and get nice groups.. arrows literally touching each other in the block... but after a couple of shots they begin to drift right.
I figured it was just my shoulder giving up.. so I put the bow away for the day.
Next day I go out and shoot a few more arrows and the point of impact is tightly grouped, but to the right of aim.

This sight mount appears to be some sort of injection molded nylon... and if I tighten the set screw on the mount it will deform where the opposing "V's" grip the horizontal bar...... almost to the point of pushing the horizontal bar forward and creating a gap at the back.

Am I asking for too much? Or is this just a plastic-craptastic POS sight?

Can anyone reccomend a good all metal sight that won't break the bank?
I'm trying not to spend more than a hundred bucks, but still get a decent, stable sight. Can ya help?
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 11:33:13 AM EDT
[#1]
OK.. I'm gonna try an experiment...
4 shot groups from 30 yds..
I put 4 in the block to confirm where I stopped yesterday...


4 more to prove to myself I wasn't crazy..


made a small adjustment and popped 4 quickies as it's starting to rain and I'm late getting ready for work...


I'm not gonna touch it until tomorrow and see what I get...
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 1:24:54 PM EDT
[#2]
If you decide to get a new sight, Ill recommend one I just got. Look at Spot Hogg. I wanted something simple with only 3 pins. They make one that was perfect for what I needed. It was about $75 too.
Link Posted: 9/8/2011 2:20:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: VBC] [#3]
There could be tuning issues as well.

A poorly tuned bow will be very unforgiving to the slightest change in shooting form.  Also, a poorly tuned bow will change points of impact at different yardages.  For example, it might be hitting right of the mark at 20, hitting the mark at 30, then left of the mark at 40.  Same with vertical changes. If you are seeing the tail of your arrows corkscrew, porpoise, sway, etc., anything other than straight arrow flight, then your bow is not tuned to you.  Paper tuning it would be the first step.  Then french or walkback tuning and finish with broadhead tuning (getting your fixed blade broadheads to group with your field points).   The reason I mention this, is because it looks like your arrows are not sticking into the block perfectly straight.  A tuned bow will place (most) every arrow into the block perfectly parallel to each other.  The bottom pic looks close, but the arrows are still a little crooked.

Or you might have simply changed your anchor point without noticing it.

But if your sight is floppy, definitely remedy that.  You don't have to spend more than $30 or $40 for a decent, sturdy fixed pin sight.  Look for all metal construction.

Link Posted: 9/8/2011 9:46:06 PM EDT
[#4]
What kind of rest are you using. I know I was using a wisker biscuit and with that particular rest it makes contact with the arrow the whole way down the arrow shaft so any movement of the bow by twisting your hand etc. will cause the arrow to do funny things. I changed to a quality arhery designs drop away arrow rest and it's made a world of difference. It's worth the money you pay for it. The rest is the most important piece.

I use just regular old truglo sights.  There about $60 and they work. If you don't have your rest tuned with your string  and your sights your going to be all over the place. The arrows will tail whip and lost speed big time.

Link Posted: 9/9/2011 5:43:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: IIRC] [#5]
Link Posted: 9/9/2011 10:55:47 AM EDT
[#6]
yeah it's a cheap 3-pin with a peep. supposedly freshly tuned, new string and buss cables... but I wanna take it to a good tuner before I call it good. I want to take it to B&B and have them put it on the "Hooter-Shooter" before start chasing my tail in circles.

The sight is constructed a lot like the Spot-Hogg "Right On" sight, but is mostly nylon.. that's where I think the problem lies.. I can't get a good clamp pressure on the lateral adjustment bar before the clamp deforms.

The arrows are wonky because the block moves upon inpact.. it you aren't dead-center it jumps pretty good. Maybe I will try putting a weight on top of the block.
and as far as seeing the arrow in flight this thing is soooo fast it's almost a "twang-pop" kinda deal... soon as you hear the string the blok pop is almost instantaneous... maybe I can get someone else to help watch because I can't see it. I will get some lighted knocks to try and help out with that..lol

I have also wondered if these cheap Carbon Express Speed Freak arrows are flexing... they are supposedly good to 75lbs and I'm only around 65lbs right now...
I want to weigh each individual arrow on my powder scale to check for uniform weights as well...

Also, paper tuning was suggested by another recurve shooter I know... he wants me to bring it in to work today so he can look at it.

I'm using a good Carolina Archery whisker biscuit. Very sturdy (all billet) and good and tight.. I also use a wrist strap an allow the handle of the bow to push into the heel of my palm with fingers extended.. then the strap catches the bow. I don't grip it after I draw it... just pressure into the heel of my palm to support the bow. I'm using a wrist strap release, and when I draw it I place the base of my thumb (big knuckle) under my jaw at the back corner, same place everytime...

keep the suggestions coming.. I'll investigate each and every one of them... I work 4 ten hour shifts with almost 3 hours of commute time, so free time is short during my workweek...
so many things to investigate.. including my shooting form.

I do appreciate you guys time and advice
Link Posted: 9/10/2011 12:42:59 AM EDT
[#7]
wrist strap (slings) are not supposed to be tightened.  They are supposed to be loose, and are only there to catch the bow if it should fall out of your hand for some reason.

take off the wrist sling or loosen it so that it does not touch your hand at all and then shoot.  make sure you are not "heeling" or putting any hand pressure whatsoever on the bow when you shoot.

is your peep site tied into the bowstring?  otherwise it could be sliding up and down.
Link Posted: 9/10/2011 1:39:22 AM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By VirginiaM4:
wrist strap (slings) are not supposed to be tightened.  They are supposed to be loose, and are only there to catch the bow if it should fall out of your hand for some reason.

take off the wrist sling or loosen it so that it does not touch your hand at all and then shoot.  make sure you are not "heeling" or putting any hand pressure whatsoever on the bow when you shoot.

is your peep site tied into the bowstring?  otherwise it could be sliding up and down.


yes.. to all 3
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 4:59:53 PM EDT
[#9]
I finally got a day off and took the bow to Hoffman's out in Warrenton. The cam timing was way off... had them put a good tuneup on it and going out to try and sight it in this evening... more news when I return.
Link Posted: 9/13/2011 12:21:28 PM EDT
[#11]
^^ is it all aluminum.. or any composite molded stuff in that one?
It looks a lot like the one I am using now.. but the additional 2 pins would be nice
Link Posted: 9/17/2011 1:35:14 AM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By Wayward_Texan:
^^ is it all aluminum.. or any composite molded stuff in that one?
It looks a lot like the one I am using now.. but the additional 2 pins would be nice


The mounting bracket and all the adjustment stuff is aluminum. The housing around the pins is some sort of polymer. Unless you run it over with a truck, I don't think it will break.
Link Posted: 9/17/2011 2:02:16 AM EDT
[#13]
I ordered this sight from Cabella's the other day...
41-9446 ACCU-STRIKE W/LIGHT 4-PIN SIGHT - APG @ $59.99 each


I have been trying to shoot at least an hour every day.. the bow is doing fine...
my shoulder.. not so good.

I have also been eyeballing these guys at work..lol
took this pic from about 20 yds...



I got into a stamping and snorting contest with a 4pt this afternoon. got out of the truck, pulled my phone out to take his pic and he stood his ground.. stamped twice.. so I took 2 steps, stamped and snorted at him...
this went on for awhile until I was prolly 20 feet from him before he bolted... lol
most fun I have had all year
Link Posted: 9/17/2011 11:37:21 AM EDT
[#14]
woopsie.. lol













10 dollar nok-turnal lighted nok.. 8 dollar arrow... ouch!
Link Posted: 9/17/2011 12:47:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MagnusM4] [#15]
^ That's why I try not to shoot at the same spot anymore.
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 2:05:28 PM EDT
[#16]


When I do that, i call it "luck". Be happy with your "misfortune" of shooting that well!

Link Posted: 10/5/2011 12:25:55 AM EDT
[#17]
if it doing that, won't it make a difference whin ya go ta broadheads? whin shot field point's, twas shooting three side by side bullseye, but whin put broad head, shoot same arrow they were down an to right, had to reset pins... finnaly with tweeking pins an rest, got were both were hitting...  just got lucky...  just put a True Glow on mine, 3 pins.... the new ones tis alot brighter than me old True Glow..
Link Posted: 10/5/2011 5:38:46 AM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 10/5/2011 7:38:02 AM EDT
[#19]





I just picked up one of these for $29 on eBay. This sight is the bomb-diggity.







 
Link Posted: 10/6/2011 10:39:42 PM EDT
[#20]
i have a less fancy truglo 5 pin sight like the one pictured above.  i like it, and i haven't had any problems with it loosening up.  i only use three pins though for 15, 30 and 45 yds.  also, i stopped shooting more than 2 arrow for groups, because i got tired of knocking fletchings off :)  i haven't robin hooded yet :(
Link Posted: 10/7/2011 1:11:37 AM EDT
[#21]
well, I haven't made it to the woods yet due to my schedule at work.. and my starter on the commuter/beater taking a dump on me last Friday screwed last weekend.
I'm hoping to get some quality time in this weekend... maybe..

Here is another one from work. Lord how I wish I could hunt that property.. I counted 17 in a group just outside the fence next to the lake last night.. so far they are still running in bachelor groups. I expect that will change very soon though.

But this guy gave me the fever really bad..lol



The folks at work are talking about rearranging my schedule... I may wind up going to nights.. 10PM to 6AM instead of 2PM 'til midnight. Getting home at 2AM is making mornings rough.
Although, that move to nights might actually work out OK for evening hunts
Link Posted: 10/10/2011 10:51:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Vortech347] [#22]
I use a G5 Optix LE and it's a very good sight.  They are right around $120 but you might be able to find one online for $100.

Mine is the 5 pin model but you can get a 3 pin model for a little less.  The only thing is they don't come with a light which is another $30 or so but it's a rheostat light.

The main thing you want is .019 pins or smaller and the fiber optics need to be more than just wrapped around the pin itself.  Otherwise, they won't be very bright without a light.

Most any sight in the price range your looking at will have metal mounting brackets and probably metal sight housings.  Plus they will typically have better adjustability than the cheap sights.

I have the cheap Trophy Ridge sight on another bow and it works fine but is a pain to adjust because you have to loosen a set screw and then manually slide the sight up or down.  With my G5 sight it has adjustment knobs which are much more precise.

The cheap Spott Hogg seems like a good sight too.  Their top end sights are fantastic but pretty pricey.

Take a look at CBE sights and Black Gold sights too.  Both brands have some nice sights with very bright pins due to good fiber optic setups.  And they should have something in your price range.
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