Many of the 3 gun matches near where I shoot are mostly in bays. The ranges will have 4-6 small bays and one 100-200yard rifle range.   Most engagements are 3 to 10 yards out in the bays and at most there is one stage with an 80-150 yard shot. To make up for the fact that many rifle targets are pretty close, many times we shoot at the 1/2 size IPSC targets, sometimes half covered by no-shoot, so effectively the target is about a 4-6 inch target.  I have practiced figuring out my close range holdovers but feel that it slows me down to have to think about where to put the reticle for the 3 yard, 5 yard, and 15 yard targets when they are such a small target size.

My question is if I should consider something drastic like a 10 or 15 yard zero, for which I will also figure out my click/adjust for the 100 yard stage.  I know that due to the distance over bore there will always be some sort of holdover between the 3 yard, 5 yard, and 15 yard targets, but I am thinking that I can use a close range zero to make it much more closer to the tip of the reticle.

Thoughts?

Most 3-Gun matches I attend mix up the target distances. A close range zero of the kind you describe would screw up long-distance shots, and trying to remember elevation adjustment would be a nightmare. Even though my scope has target turrets with zero stop, I just leave it at one setting and hold off at close range. I don't think it slows me down at all, as I seem to do it automatically. Maybe I am not as fast as you.

The holdovers will slow you down in the beginning, but will become second nature after you use them long enough. Due to the mechanical offset (distance of scope above bore) a 10 yard zero would be a nightmare to remember on long range stages.

I can completely relate.  I always have a hesitation the first stage or two trying to force my brain to correct for the proper hash for close up.  However I have my 100yd zero with my handloads, and I've figured out the hash mark that accounts for height over bore for our bay courses (3-25 yards mostly).

Listen to this guy.


Holding 2.5 inches high will become second nature on close up paper after a while.


Super close zero will induce a nightmare at longer ranges.

I have a feeling we've shot at the same MN3GG and Hawkeye matches.  I've always used a 50 yard zero since it's only 1.5" high or low from about 25-200 yards, and then for the real close stuff aim around the top of the target.  
I've been contemplating going to a 25/100 yard zero since they had that damn "peacock" last month though since it'd be a bit better for the super close stuff...but then they had that 400 yard shot in the last MN3GG match in Forest Lake which made me scrap that idea.

I run a 50 yard zero and confirm at 200. No shoots are typically setup to obstruct the body of the target and leave the A/B head exposed. As long as you aim at the top 1/3 of the A/B zone it will put you center of the target (scope height may change that a touch) I wouldnt suggest changing your zero just for those types of targets.

I use the 50/200 zero as well. At 25 yards it's 1.5" low and at 100 1.8" high with my ammo. You can as others have said learn your holdovers and depending on optic, some have dashes that can help with that. I do run a cheap amazon pair of 45 degree offsets that I have zeroed at like 5 yards on for that real close burner paper we run into sometimes. Sometimes we see a paper IPSC target with clay holders over the shoulders (yesterdays was 20 yards out) and I find I go back to the optic and my holdovers. Just practice however your setup until your comfortable, lots of ways to do it!

@3GunSteve

When I was doing 3 gun many moons ago, I used a 50/200 zero (what was it called, Improved Combat Zero, something like that?).  Once I moved to a 1-4x scope, I learned the reticle for the various ranges (I had the millet with the dot in a donut with a couple crosshairs as well.  Very handy, scope zeroed at 100, and I took shots out to 400, and would have the occasional close in stage, including a few of those Very Close bay stages.

As far as shooting at 10 yard targets, even with Optics, it's so close that I would generally just tilt the gun to the side and kind of 'shotgun' it, sighting along the forearm.  Good enough for steel and full size targets.  But, yeah, shooting at reduced sized targets with a no-shoot in the way would call for more precision.  The way I would do it, since I am a fairly recent Open shooter in All The Things now, would be to have your optic zeroed at 100 yards and then have either offset irons, or a piggy backed dot sight zeroed for your close work.  But, that would put you into Open, if that's a concern and/or they haven't come up with some kind of class that would allow that setup in rifle but preserve Limited/Production/TacOps for your other guns.  As I said, it's been a few years since I did 3 Gun stuff.

As many have said, just stick with a 50/200.
I point shoot at pretty much anything with their traditional "if it's on paper it counts" scoring under 10 yards.

Funny story. Last match I shot was in a dried creek bed. 8 or 9 close targes (>10 yards) then a plate rack at 100 then a few more.

I didn't even realize my front scope cap was still closed til I got to the plate rack