You can measure your lug nuts and studs and stuff and figure out how deep a socket you need.  Use the tape measure to measure the lug nut completely.  If it is the sort of lug nut the stud sticks up out of the middle you add that depth to your measurement.

Some sockets have a hole for a stud to go into if they stick out of the lug nut.  Some don't.

Even using a stick broken to length would let you play in the tool section and see what you think.

My opinion on sockets is this.  Sometimes you get what you pay for.

I bought ingersoll rand impact sockets 20+ years ago.  Thick walls and impossible to kill.  Also sometimes would not fit in some spots.

Snap on is expensive, but if you look at their sockets vs.cheaper sockets you will find the cheap sockets often have 3 or 4 sockets that have the same outer diameter.  That means, on the littlest size the wall is super thick and on the biggest size it may be too thin.  I mostly ran into the too thin issue on chrome sockets for hand use.  I blame sears cause they were in business back when I turned wrenches for a few years.

Snap on makes each and every socket special.  Sure they cost a ton.  Don't recall breaking any I used properly and I used a lot improperly and broke very few.

I don't have anything bad about C02 tanks other than you need to get em filled now and again.  I am the air compressor and air tank guy.  The co2 tank takes up less space and can run a lot of tools and fill a lot of tires before it needs refilled.  I am the air compressor and air tank guy.

If I found some for sale locally for cheap I might buy em and get em filled.  But I would not be throwing out the air compressor and air tanks.

I know mechanics these days run on electric tools.  Back when I turned wrenches it was air tools.  I still have em.  When I find a big compressor for sale cheap I will buy it to make use of all the air tools and hoses I still have.  I also have a lot of electric tools, but never got to where I used em a ton.

Sorry for the late arrival, but here's my two cents.

DeWalt also makes a 60v FlexVolt 2.5 gal compressor as well as a 20v inflator.  I'd probably get the 60v compressor, might be handy not only for airing up mower tires, but if you need some air to clean things up it should work fine for that.

60v 2.5 Gal Compressor
https://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/air-compressors/flexvolt-60v-max-25-gallon-cordless-air-compressor-kit/dcc2560t1

20v inflator
https://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/air-compressors/20v-max-cordedcordless-air-inflator/dcc020ib

I know you already have the impact wrench, but you picked one that should work just fine for what you need.  I have the DCF899H (hog ring model).  This is the big heavy duty brushless, which does around 1,200 ft lbs of breakaway and 700 ft lbs tightening.  The midrange model saves you some weight and still puts out enough torque for what you'll be doing.  I specifically wanted the hog ring and not the pin detent.  Its a bit easier removing sockets from the hog ring model than on the pin detent model.  A smaller 1/4" impact might be handy to have in your collection as well.  (I'd pick up the DCF887).  You can also buy an adapter and use it with sockets.  It's small, lightweight, perfect for 3/8" drive sockets and things where you don't need a lot of power.

I think everyone else covered the rest.

edit - All my sockets (regular and impact) are Craftsman from well over 10 years ago.

I understand most can't just go buy snap-on.  Now and then some folks run into someone selling stuff or a pawn shop just has a bucket of sockets and you can sort through em.

You understand there is a lot of different build quality out there, that is all that matters.

My dad has a 1/2 inch drive sears ratchet and some sockets.  I told him if it ever breaks, do not go to sears.  They will give him crap new one vs. what he has.  I will buy my dad a good new one and even if I can't repair the old one I will be happy having it cause of memories.

I know, sears go bye bye and lowes may have craftsman tools, whatever.  And it is craftsman, I never liked sears putting their name on junk tools but craftsman tools had good warranty.

As far as farm jacks being dangerous, they are just a version of the jack my 1976 pontiac had back when you used a bumper jack to jack your vehicle.  Same concept, same ability to hurt or kill yourself.

To some extent it mostly all comes from the fact that if you don't watch that lever it can crack you in the jaw and hurt you.  But you can also jack things so high you can push your stuck vehicle sideways to get it out of the ruts, but it is kinda high up and unbalanced at that point so you know physics can hurt.

There are a ton of do and don't lists for hi-lift jacks on all the 4x4 sights.  My personal opinion is most folks can't operate a stick shift transmission, so no I don't want em operating a hi-lift jack either.  Heck, why let em operate a motor vehicle.

As far as height of jack goes, can cut some 2x12s or whatever to place under a jack maybe or some have screw in jack pads and you can get a decent raised version.  I use blocks of wood all the time for my bottle jacks.  Bottle jacks rock.  And at the same time, sometimes when lifting a vehicle a decent distance the vehicle will "scooch" on the jack pad.  Some jacks on wheels try to scootch with the vehicle.  If you have a tiny pad on a tiny contact surface you might come right off the contact surface.

I think we discussed jacks in the trailer thread or someplace, tons of threads out there to go consider.  A lot of the rolley polley floor jacks, that roll on concrete floors to easily be placed under a vehicle, are crappy now.  Old lincoln brand stuff may just need a rebuild kit but most of it has been snapped up over the past 20 years.

I like bottle jacks.

Please note that a jack lifts vehicle and before changing a tire or especially before working under vehicle it gets placed firmly on jack stands.  By this I mean jack stands put under vehicle and jack lowered so vehicle is now supported by the jack stand.  Not a jack stand just kinda slid under there, use it properly.  I usually slightly raise the jack again to put some pressure on the jack as well, should there be an issue with the jack stand I might get a split seconds notice.

Also, block wheels.  Owner's manuals of vehicles cover this pretty well anymore.

I bought all Craftsman since the early 90's.  Good American made stuff.  Lifetime warranty.  Same kinda stuff gramps used.  And here we are today...

I'll spend the extra coin on new American tools from time to time, but I've devolved into buying chicom crap now, or looking for old, used American stuff.  It's gross.  The one thing that I am consistent on now though, Craftsman will never get another penny from me.

No problem.

I like the hog ring because it is easier to change out sockets & extensions.  On the pin detent models, if the pin on the anvil of the impact goes into the hole on the socket or extension then it requires additional effort to remove the socket/extension.  The hog ring anvils still require some pull, but it's not as much of a pain.

I think honestly the impact wrench you picked is just fine, but I'm not sure if my post conveyed that.  You certainly don't need the heavy duty model for the work you described, and if the overall weight of the tool is a factor to you, which it sounds like it is, you definitely won't want the heavy duty impact models (DeWalt has the DCF899 which is the brushless version, and the DCF889 which is the brushed version).  The midrange brushless model (DCF894) only weighs 3.48 lbs, whereas the DCF899 weighs 5.8 lbs and the DCF889 weighs 5.5 lbs.

Google Rebar winch anchor.

Say your mower gets stuck. You rig up the anchor point and un stick it, do a quick inspection, put the gear away, and then check to see if anyone saw you (yano...just like a cat you bust doing something it shouldn't).

But yeah if your mower craps the bed and you can phsyically push it to a place where you can get your trailer you could use the anchor method to drag it to the trailer....man that would suck to have to do...

If all I have is cigarette lighter stuff, that is what I will use.  But I have melted em, well worn em out which is usually a plastic part melting, cause they are not made to run for long periods of time without over heating.  This is getting into "duty cycle" and the stuff that hooks to a battery post usually has a better duty cycle.  Plus, if airing all 4 tires up to go from august tire pressures to winter tire pressures you are shutting compressor off as you move it between each tire.

The rebar driven straight down into the ground or at a slight backwards angle is the same as people in the desert or beach burying their spare tire in the sand.  You are putting a sideways pull on the item and all the dirt or sand between the item and the pulling thingy is keeping your anchor in place.  You can buy specific anchors, use a shovel or anything you have, and depending on what amount of force you are using this works great to not at all.  I am generally too lazy to bury stuff well so I don't use this method.

If it is all you have it is all you have.  The garden hose for putting around a tree may be ok for a mower but I would use several wraps.  A tree saver strap for serious winching is not that expensive and for use with 8k lb winches on a vehicle so I would look into those.  I have used the 3 inch wide strap from a ratchet strap tie down thingy as well.  You are after surface area on the tree so the tree does not get hurt.  3 inch wide strap was for riding mower.

Youtube should have some good and some scary videos of hi lift jacks also called farm jacks.  I tried winching a log up a hill with one and gave up.  Use rope or something that stretches at all and you might not get enough force to move item.  Use chain and it is hard to get it tight enough to make the most use of hi-lift movement.  You are only gonna winch for 3 or 4 ft or however much space a hi lift has for movement each time.  This was a long distance youngster trying something he had read about out thing.  I got enough chain, hooked it to a vehicle on gravel and let the vehicle do the work.  Due to woods and angles there were many short pulls but easier than hi lift fun for me.

Camel trophy competitors rock at using the hi lift well.  It is a tool that you need practice on to make it look easy.  I have one.  It looks good sitting there.  I will use it if I have to but I rarely use it since a winch, riding mower, other vehicle, or anything else tends to be what I try to use instead.

China tools, go play in pawn shops or flea markets for american made is all I can say.  East tn has a ton of illegal drugs and that fuels crime which fuels pawn shops somewhat.  Larger ticket items, no, but someone walking in with crappy tool box of crappy tools they stole wanting $5 bucks or whatever they get offered makes me think crime more than down on his luck guy who is willing to turn wrenches for a living.

I kept all my tools cause they won't sell for what I have in em and I could not afford to replace em if I wished to do so.  So to some extent you might look at folks having garage sales if the part of town is older folks.  My dad did this decades ago, he and my mom lucked into a house they did not expect to be able to afford I guess.  Street had mostly older folks on it compared to them.  As time moved on and the husbands passed the widow would ask my dad for opinions on tools or just want help making em go away.  He has a heck of a workshop from that and always tried to be fair with the widows.  A lot of times the widow just wanted the clutter gone and would have thrown stuff in the trash if it did not weigh so much.

For short term use an invertor of good size can be clamped to a battery with the hood up.  If you want to make it more useful and plan to use tools with it somewhat consider making a spot for it and running good wires and fuse to battery for it.  Lot of folks did this on older vehicles before it became common for new cars to come with one built in.  Can even use a short extension cord to make it easier to use if invertor gets mounted under a front seat but you want to run the little air compressor in the back of the truck or something.  Search and do this safely, big wires are good.  Good connections.  Good fuse setup.  Done poorly you can burn things down.

Scuba tank would work as well.  Run searches and see what you get for run time from em and what not.  Like I said, I grew up on air compressors so that is how I lean.

I see no reason why not, just have it filled, they will tell 6ou yes or no.
Small tank easily does 12 tires from 15 to 35 and run impacts gor tire changes etc for several rides

If you have tank access, for less than a $100 of regulater and hose it is worth a dry, the air is colder so lube guns and tools ever use, just a couple drops.

IIRC from my diving days a scuba tank holds 72 cu ft of air at 2000 psi.
This would fill several tires but getting it recharged means a trip to a scuba shop and you may need to present a PADI or NAUI card to get the fill.
ALSO.. Scuba tanks must be hydro-statically tested periodically.
In all honesty I'd find another way....

The Craftsman name is now owned by Stanly Black & Decker.  Recently most hand tools were made by either Danaher or Apex Tool Group.  Screwdrivers were made by Western Forge.  B&D is making most of the stuff overseas but is supposed to be building a place in Texas to make hand tools.

their sockets that were USA made were made by Armstrong.  Now with everything at the stores being China made IDK who's stuff they are putting their logo on

You have options with your stock ramp.  As well as a pulley to help you pull up the new heavier setup depending on how you rig things.

I have a trailer that sits as high as a pickup bed, no mower gonna drive onto it and get into or out of trailer well.  A couple boards with the aluminum ends you put on a 2x12 for making em ramps solves this.  Trailer has a tailgate to keep things in place.  But not a loading ramp tailgate.
If yours is just a little off, some short boards on the ground with the tailgate sitting on them would let you drive mower onto boards, think 2x6 or 8 or 10 or width of mower wheel, and with tailgate on that board its angle should be less.

Zero turns I like backing onto trailer.  I have little time on zero turns but do have some.  I prefer riding mower cause it works kinda like my car.

Alright, pulley setup for pulling up tailgate, you are going to need something to let the rope or whatever be up high and angle down to the tailgate so it wants to raise the tailgate.

If your trailer has some of those pockets on the side for 2x4s or something I would consider that maybe.  Not sure how much force you are dealing with.

The other gorilla thing sounds like a better solution but I never messed with them much.  Or at all.

If you are smart on stacking boards you can bump the mower up a couple 2x12s or whatever under the tailgate if needed.  Some people bolt em together and some just deal with things being loose.

As much as I do not attach my ramps to the tailgate of the pickup like the instructions tell you to do, I am careful how I apply power when using said ramps cause even little pins won't keep ramps in place if you are really stupid.

Youtube has videos on stupid.  For this lesson videos on how not to load lawn mowers should work in their search.

I have also used those plastic drive up ramps made for working on your vehicle, like changing oil sort of thing.  But you can damage and crack the plastic and have other issues there.

Kitts.. have ya tried backing the mower onto the trailer??

Today's Home Depot Special Buys of the Day features the DeWalt 60v Flexvolt 2.5 gal compressor (w/ 6.0 battery and charger), as well as an 18 gauge nailer and hose for $349.

https://www.homedepot.com/SpecialBuy/SpecialBuyOfTheDay

2.5 gal compressor w/ nailer and hose:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-FLEXVOLT-2-5-Gal-60-Volt-MAX-Brushless-Cordless-Electric-Air-Compressor-Kit-with-Bonus-18-Gauge-Brad-Nailer-and-Hose-DCC25W233450D/309427860

Normally, the compressor with battery and charger is $299 from Home Depot, so today for $50 more you can get the nailer and hose.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-FLEXVOLT-2-5-Gal-60-Volt-MAX-Brushless-Cordless-Electric-Air-Compressor-Kit-with-Battery-2-Ah-and-Charger-DCC2560T1/302871472

Pictures of new trailer mods

and he did work w/o prior authorization of idea or approval sounds like papaw

Most winches should be 12 volt.  No invertor needed.

Winches pull a lot of power, if you somehow needed an invertor involved it better be a monster one.

To some extent in the past I think we mentioned boat winches, where you have a crank you run in a circle.  Lot of folks repurpose these for other stuff and it might work well to some extent.

Pay attention to load if adding pullies to help move more weight cause you don't really want to go over the load limit of the rope, cable, or setup you have.

That is overkill. You are not going on an expedition. For sockets I would carry one set of sockets thath will cover the largest bolt you are likely to take off your mower. A handful of wrenches to cover the socket sizes, a few screw drivers, a small and medium hammer, pliers, a vice grip, maybe a punch set.
You are doing field repairs, not shop work. Go easy with any impact. Mowers are not super heavy duty equipment.
Unless you cut a tire, a plug kit will fix most of your problems. Slime all your tires now, not when you have a flat. The tire guy will hate you but who cares.
You are unlikely to do more than change a tire on the pickup so a deep well socket in the size of your lug nut with a stubby extension is all you need. Husky makes a set of sockets just for tire changes.

Post pictures of the ramp
Someone will have a solution

In general, ramp loading issues are angle of attack related. To solve, reduce angle, or cut the angle in half by having to change of angles

So, longer ramp, different ramp, change angle of ramp or some sort of beaver tail setup
Can't lift the ramp?  Take it off, and use individual, longer aluminum landing ramps.
Long term, get someone to weld it how you want.
Change the angle of the ramp- put a jack on the trailer tongue and jack it up when you are loading. Be careful if loading heavy and you have rear wheel drive vehicle, certain combinations can lift rear wheels, and if on a hill vehicle can move. Low probability if jack is down.

Couple more things, is trailer level attached to truck? Maybe a lifted ball (flip rec. Over and reattach ball) so tounge is higher, which drops back of trailer and changes breakover angle might help.
Lets see his extension.
How far are you from Bristol TN?

Do the wheels front and back on the zero turn line up?  Know how the car wheels front and back line up?

You can make 2 ramps that are stable, wide enough to be stable but not the whole monster you have, and just line em up for the wheels.  If the wheels don't follow each other then 4 ramps is silly cause you may weight more than what you have, just have 4 seperate pieces so move 1 at a time.

The game of pullies is distance vs force.  A pulley on the mower so the cable goes to the mower and then all the way back to the trailer helps as well.

A pulley basically halves your speed, doubles the line moved.  Friction needs to be accounted for but big whup.  Consider it a thief and all is ok.

To some extent making the rope or cable run over something like maybe part of the trailer ramp for a little bit will add wear to the rope or cable.  Replace as needed or you can add a sacrificial sleave, hose or something.

If backing the mower up I bet its wheels want to yank the mini wood ramps out.  This is where having a pin or something to attach em to the trailer ramp comes into play.  I understand the mower build is goofy, you have a trailer that is how long?  2 ramps that long will easily fit on the trailer won't they?  Drilling holes to drop bolts through the ramp frame and into the wood ramp to hold things in place would make things stay in place.

Your mower has a battery in it.  You could put a cute baby winch on the mower.

Very cool, glad it works well for you.  

How noisy is the compressor?

Thanks for the info on the compressor, I had a feeling it was noisy.  

Regarding charging your batteries, DeWalt makes a charger with a connector that plugs into your vehicle's 12v aux plug/cigarette lighter, but its only for the 20v Max (and 12v Max) batteries.  I don't believe it charges the FlexVolt batteries though.

https://www.dewalt.com/products/accessories/batteries-and-chargers/chargers/12v-max--20v-max-lithium-ion-vehicle-battery-charger/dcb119

But, you could just use your single charger that you probably already have a few of that plug into a wall.  Get yourself a cheap little inverter such as the Cobra CPI 475 400 Watt Power Inverter (or anything similar) and you can plug that into a 12v aux plug/cigarette lighter in your vehicle.  Which DeWalt charger are you using for your FlexVolt batteries?  Just double check what its amp draw is so you don't blow the fuse in the inverter and/or the 12v aux plug of your vehicle.

For charging multiple batteries I use the DeWalt DCB1800 watt portable power station (yeah, its overkill but so awesome):
https://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/generators-and-portable-power/1800-watt-portable-power-station-and-simultaneous-battery-charger/dcb1800b
It also charges the FlexVolt batteries.  Not only can you charge up to 4 batteries simultaneously, but you can use use it as a "generator" (but doesn't need fuel!).  It provides 15amps of juice (1800 watts) for quite a while (you need 4 fully charged batteries, and the larger capacity batteries are recommended for this).   It will run pretty much any corded tool, or power your fridge, etc.

I've been intrigued by these engine mounted generators.

What they use on fire trucks and scissor lifts.



PM-110 120v 29A 3500peakW 2500W 3600 RPM27 lbs.

http://www.fabcopower.com/generat/bgen.htm

My truck has a spare bracket position, but getting the right pulley and serpentine belt might be a chore.

In all reality, I don't need 110v that often...but these sure are cool.

On the air output of new compressor vs old.  Are we talking same pressure shown on the gauges of each compressor?  I figure we are, but always start there.  You should be able to change tools without losing all the air in the air hose.  Those couplers, like what is pictured on left of your compressor for hose to connect to, allow you to just pop things on and off.  Should have one on end of hose for the tool in use.  That said, smaller tank like a 2 gallon tank at 90psi will push less air out than 5 gallon tank at 90psi.  Just a fact of life.

If you want to play games you can rig up a tank for your compressor to fill as well as its tank.  This is not efficient but if you need 5 gallons of air and only 5 gallons of air I could see doing it.  Your air compressor will run longer to bring all this up to pressure, and you need to know the duty rating of your compressor.  Running it for too long lets stuff get hot and while not a big whup on a cold winter day it may melt something in the summer or just wear out really early.

The post above mentioned there are some chargers for vehicles, I don't happen to be up on current dewalt stuff.  I am running 20volt stuff in my 18volt xrp stuff I have had forever using adapters but I don't have much time in on em.  I have a car charger for the 18volt batteries but have not been buying them as much since the 20volt tends to be better price wise.

The post talking about adding a generator under the hood of the vehicle is getting into more expensive stuff, but there is a lot of options out there for someone who needed to use their stuff more often.  I can see where a fire truck might use something like that.  I somewhat will compare it to someone who goes off road a lot adding a 2nd battery to their vehicle so the winch has more battery to drain when running and some people rig up the 2 batteries to do stick welding as well.

If you decide you want an invertor figure out what size you need.  Much like the generators people buy for power outages an inverter has ratings.  And if your vehicle is not running, a huge invertor may not receive enough juice from your truck battery to do much.

People who modify their vehicles have walked this road already and made lots of mistakes.  While I consider em silly, low riders often use air compressors for the air bags in their vehicle.  Viair is common in that market.  So while I don't care about lowering my vehicle, I can read up on viair stuff and how it holds up on their vehicles.  Of course 4x4 off road vehicles use em as well.  But when I get to reading I like to read from all over.

Invertors are now coming in vehicles and have been for a couple years.  Not sure when it started.  So lot of folks are moding their old vehicle with invertors.  This is across the board, no one area seems real big on it other than people modifying stuff.  Some take the invertor apart so they can place the plugs where they make sense and then they hide the guts of the invertor elsewhere.  Some use a short extension cord to do this as well.

Anyway, glad you are happy with your new toy.

I've pulled a ztr onto my landscape trailer with just a climbing rope by myself a couple of times.

Tie one end to the front of the mower, wrap the other end around the front rail 3 or 4 times and run the free end back toward the middle of the rope. Stand on the free end and using both hands lift the middle. The wheelmotors will bypass, slowly letting the mower roll, might take several seconds for the mower to move a foot, but it will move.

Once your standing upright and no more forward progress is made, drop the rope and quickly pull the slack out by flipping and pulling the free end and and step on it again. It will roll backwards while resetting the knot, just be quick. Repeat.

If you know more knots doubling the rope back and tying a friction hitch where you can reach it is easier than using the front rail as a hitching post. You really only have to fight it up the ramp. Once it's on the trailer loosen the bypass valves and push it. If the bypasses are open you won't have time to reset the rope before it rolls backwards. If you have a helper with a wheel chock following the mower along and keeping it from moving backwards that's awesome, I never have anyone around when my mower breaks down.

I've used the method a number of times to load broken down cars onto u haul trailers with a helper working the brakes.

I now keep a hi-lift jack on the truck. Have used it to sharpen blades (back the mower against a curb so it can't roll backwards while you lift it), unstuck the mower, and you can also hand winch with a chain.

$450 for the unit, and $200 worth of batteries to make it run, all for 1800W?   I think I'd just carry a generator.