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Posted: 10/8/2017 7:17:11 PM EDT
[#1]
I have a closed loop system. I love it.. supper reactive.
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Posted: 10/8/2017 7:21:42 PM EDT
[#2]
I installed over 1.4 million dollars of that stuff in 1998 and I won't sell it anymore
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Posted: 10/8/2017 9:00:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I installed over 1.4 million dollars of that stuff in 1998 and I won't sell it anymore |
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Posted: 10/8/2017 10:26:31 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I installed over 1.4 million dollars of that stuff in 1998 and I won't sell it anymore Where? What was the cause to lead you to that conclusion? |
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Posted: 10/9/2017 1:47:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Equipment failure? Waterfurnace? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I installed over 1.4 million dollars of that stuff in 1998 and I won't sell it anymore equipment failures were high maintenance was high wells were astronomical to have drilled and to maintain yes waterfurnace when it was factory direct it was good on getting parts and pieces and support was great, but I had to wind up suing them to get them to honor their compressor warranty when they disastrous move to Mexico for the compressor oil return issue. They told one of my customers that the failures was unique to my installs and I lost over 2 million dollars worth of sales and long term work that was no bid. turned out I was not the only one with that issue. unless you live on enough land that allows you to do a trench installation getting the loop in vertical wells are 2 open artesian wells is unaffordable |
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Posted: 10/11/2017 6:04:38 PM EDT
[#6]
Yes, had a system lut in my last house, lived there for another 7 years and loved it. Installed it in my new house as well. Payback time is generally 7-10 years.
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Posted: 10/11/2017 9:56:38 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
expensive to install equipment failures were high maintenance was high wells were astronomical to have drilled and to maintain yes waterfurnace when it was factory direct it was good on getting parts and pieces and support was great, but I had to wind up suing them to get them to honor their compressor warranty when they disastrous move to Mexico for the compressor oil return issue. They told one of my customers that the failures was unique to my installs and I lost over 2 million dollars worth of sales and long term work that was no bid. turned out I was not the only one with that issue. unless you live on enough land that allows you to do a trench installation getting the loop in vertical wells are 2 open artesian wells is unaffordable What is your sense of the industry itself, and do you think your particular manufacturer (the one who filched on so many people) was a good representative of the industry? Or are there some good folks out there? I see a lot of positive feedback that I don't think is paid feedback. But really interested in your take on it since you were/are an installer. |
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Posted: 10/12/2017 8:05:11 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Coldair I have been interested in geothermal for years. What is your sense of the industry itself, and do you think your particular manufacturer (the one who filched on so many people) was a good representative of the industry? Or are there some good folks out there? I see a lot of positive feedback that I don't think is paid feedback. But really interested in your take on it since you were/are an installer. |
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Posted: 10/12/2017 1:37:29 PM EDT
[#9]
Thank you. I don't actually have a large property. about 1.3 acres, but can't help thinking I could get enough length underground in my big front yard to make it work. (Not that I know ANY details. I don't.)
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Posted: 10/12/2017 1:58:16 PM EDT
[#10]
Just had one put in about 2 years ago. Great comfort, easy to heat in winter and cool in summer, Live in Ohio so we have both seasons for real. We just made it for the tax credit which gave us 30% back, so well worth it for me. They did a ground loop slinky system, which I was against, but they said they sized it right for the house, I was still against it, finally the guy put it in writing that the system would be more than sufficient or they would change it. Haven't had any problems, when we run it all winter, it doesn't seem to have to run harder or longer towards the end of heating season, or the end of cooling season. I would get again. Doesn't seem to take up much land, maybe a little more than the size of the house footprint 2300 Sq ft.
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Posted: 10/12/2017 2:14:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
expensive to install equipment failures were high maintenance was high wells were astronomical to have drilled and to maintain yes waterfurnace when it was factory direct it was good on getting parts and pieces and support was great, but I had to wind up suing them to get them to honor their compressor warranty when they disastrous move to Mexico for the compressor oil return issue. They told one of my customers that the failures was unique to my installs and I lost over 2 million dollars worth of sales and long term work that was no bid. turned out I was not the only one with that issue. unless you live on enough land that allows you to do a trench installation getting the loop in vertical wells are 2 open artesian wells is unaffordable OP- I'm not a HVAC contractor, we ( GC ) always subcontracted that work.. If I can find a couple of older contracts I'll post an update in this post in the next couple of days. Two projects come to mind, one was a well system ( IIRC, 6 wells) and the other was a ground loop. There are variables but I can give you an idea of what those systems cost the client. I can tell you now, they're costly when compared to a heat pump with gas backup. I'm not certain but it appears that the 30% tax credit was eliminated in 2016 for geothermal. Don't hold me to that because I only did of few minutes of searching last night. That tax credit was a big incentive at the time. |
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Posted: 10/12/2017 2:14:56 PM EDT
[#12]
I used it in my PA. house. It heated and cooled about 8500 sq ft. I actually had 2 units due to a large house.
Had 16 wells drilled to 165 feet. The system ran great, only issue was about every 3 years a controller would go out when you switch from heat to cool in the summer. Cost about 65 bucks to have replaced. With an all electric house, we payed right at 350 a month for electricity. Which is not bad for the size of house and cold winters we had on top of the mountain. Installation was about double that of an oil furnace system, Mainly the cost of drilling the wells. All in all, I would do it again. |
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Posted: 10/12/2017 2:17:16 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just had one put in about 2 years ago. Great comfort, easy to heat in winter and cool in summer, Live in Ohio so we have both seasons for real. We just made it for the tax credit which gave us 30% back, so well worth it for me. They did a ground loop slinky system, which I was against, but they said they sized it right for the house, I was still against it, finally the guy put it in writing that the system would be more than sufficient or they would change it. Haven't had any problems, when we run it all winter, it doesn't seem to have to run harder or longer towards the end of heating season, or the end of cooling season. I would get again. Doesn't seem to take up much land, maybe a little more than the size of the house footprint 2300 Sq ft. |
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Posted: 10/12/2017 2:40:36 PM EDT
[#14]
in Florida they want a lot for a well, current price for a 4" well to 120 feet is between 5 to 6k each and the last house we did had 22 wells for a close loop. most of the other jobs I did were either dock\pond loops which made them somewhat affordable or artesian wells which cost 80k plus 15 to 30k for the titanium plate frame heat exchangers and 35k for the pump package.
wells drilled too close together (less than 150') would eventually start recirculating the water between them or the reinjection well would calcified and have to be fracked after a few years. brands I have installed are American Standard, Trane Carrier Climate master singer FHP/Bosch Coldflo Waterfurnace mammoth |
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Posted: 10/12/2017 3:05:33 PM EDT
[#15]
I have a 2500 SQ FT home with a 3 ton equivalent Carrier Climate Master Unit. Original cost was $20K, ended up getting a $7K check back from the IRS on that.
It consists of six wells each 300 ft deep, with the lines fully grouted in with bentonite cement. My builder and I have the exact house and my electrical bill runs around half of what his does. Maintenance has been a small issue, the compressor has leaked freon twice. I made a big stink about it with the installer and he showed me where it was not covered under warranty. Overall I like the system but it was a little pricey. |
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Posted: 10/12/2017 9:44:02 PM EDT
[#16]
OP, if you would prefer I not ask questions in your thread, please say. I don't mean to threadjack.
I'm very interested, though, from those who know something about these systems. How is the decision made as to horizontal or vertical installations? Are there certain requirements for soil type, etc? |
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Posted: 10/13/2017 9:32:35 PM EDT
[#17]
It can be viable, or not.
You need an accurate heat loss calculation for your building to start. Then you can size equipment and tubing and installation, and still (depending on your home) only have 68 degree air out at your vents during the coldest days of winter. My previous neighbor had an open system that was cost effective and sized to keep the house at 65 during winter. If he wanted it warmer he burned wood. |
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Posted: 10/13/2017 9:52:51 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, if you would prefer I not ask questions in your thread, please say. I don't mean to threadjack. I'm very interested, though, from those who know something about these systems. How is the decision made as to horizontal or vertical installations? Are there certain requirements for soil type, etc? |
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Posted: 10/14/2017 3:14:07 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not an expert, but if I recall correctly from when I looked into it a year or two ago, it pretty much came down to space. If you had lots of space to go horizontal, you could do that and it was a lot cheaper. If you didn't have much room to work with, you had to go vertical. IMHO, the cheapest is a horizontal loop; they are generally 5-6 feet deep and IIRC, for a 3-ton unit like mine, require about 1/3 mile of tubing. My tubing is all in a 400 foot long trench. I wasn't here to see exactly what it is, but my buddy "guesstimated" that the main line run out to a manifold that splits it into six 3/4" poly tubes, all laid in the same trench; if done right they were laid with significant spacing between them, if done wrong they're all laying next to one-another and not working as efficiently. Soil is a poor conductor of heat so they don't need a great deal of space between them, they just need a great deal of surface-area to dissipate the heat. |
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Posted: 10/14/2017 4:43:09 PM EDT
[#20]
I live in a location where natural gas isn't available. I just built my house 2 years ago and put a 4 to water furnace series 7 in. The cost prior to the 30% tax incentive was a tax over $34,000. I have 3200' of pipe buried 7' deep in a series of 4 horizontal trenches that are 150' long across my back yard.
My entire house is electric with the exception of the cooktop and clothes dryer. We have never had a bill over $300 / month in the winter and our air conditioning runs approx $40 / month during the summer.....and that is 24/7 from the time we turn it on until we turn it off in September. If we get cold we open windows. My total conditioned space is a tad over 4500 sq ft. In the meantime, my neighbors that are heating comparable sized homes are spending between $500-800 per month in the winter depending on propane prices. When I bid out my HVAC during the planning stages of construction, a top of the line, high efficiency furnace and AC system was running around $15-16000 installed. With the 30% credit that was available during my construction period, I ended up paying around $7000 or so more than a regular high efficiency propane system. My ROI between the 2 systems is difficult to calculate due to fluctuations in propane prices.....but it's somewhere in the 7-9 year range WITHOUT FACTORING AC. If I did the math on running 24/7 all summer AC with a propane system the ROI would be in the 3-4 year range. ETA - I insulated the shit out of my house and totally air sealed it. My walls are R21 but totally air sealed with an inch of closed cell foam and my attic is R60. My bonus room above the garage is totally closed cell foam and my rim joists were all spray with 1-2" of foam prior to getting bat insulating. The only real issue with geothermal....is it take a lot more time to reach temp than a regular forced air furnace. Here in Michigan where the weather changes hourly, that can be a mild pain in the ass. For instance, in The winter we may have a week where the temps are pretty constant, say daytime highs In the upper 20s.....and then all of a sudden we get a cold snap where it goes down into the low teens for a few days. It takes the geo system a day or so to catch up to that swing and the house seems a little chilly durin that time. We new that going in and installed everything for a wood stove since we have enough hard wood acreage to feed it without having to buy wood. |
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Posted: 10/15/2017 11:48:55 AM EDT
[#21]
The "payback estimate" should be examined closely in its comparisons. For most of the country, inverter compressors and heat pumps may make far more sense both financially and ease of use/maintenance over the equipment's service life. Just make sure you have them size the heat pump properly to include the heating season, and use inverter/staged compressors so the equipment works well in both seasons.
I'd like to build a house within the next five years, and I'm wondering if inverter compressor central air with multi-zoning or multi-zone mini-splits(some of them ducted) are the way to go. Ducting is needed regardless for the ERV and air circulation so I lean toward (mostly) conventional central air. Radiant slab heat will be guaranteed purely from a comfort/supplemental heat perspective(warm floors), even with our short and light heating season. |
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Posted: 10/16/2017 2:26:21 PM EDT
[#22]
I have an open loop system since I have a creek along the property. No complaints.
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Posted: 10/16/2017 2:50:49 PM EDT
[#23]
I hand one installed 2016 and it’s a Climate Master in east Texas. Been awesome all summer long. What we noticed is the recovery of this unit is amazing. Had all doors open at 102 degrees outside while we moved stuff in. Once the doors were closed, maybe 10 minutes and it’s was 72 inside.
We also have it tied to a water heater that is being used as a holding tank. Meaning the geothermal is providing home hot water as well. I have 30 acres so space wasn’t an issue. It’s almost silent on the inside. On the outside it is silent. There isn’t a compressor that kicks on ever. When living in the country, that is super nice. Just hearing sounds, not hearing the AC come on. |
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Posted: 10/16/2017 3:29:07 PM EDT
[#24]
I put in a closed loop system 5 years ago when I built my house. At that time there was a 30% tax benefit from the total cost of the install, which really helped. I would have done it anyway. Very happy with it so far. Very economical to run.
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Posted: 10/16/2017 4:44:18 PM EDT
[#25]
So... I'm stupid.
How do you use geothermal in the winter for heating? |
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Posted: 10/16/2017 7:29:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So... I'm stupid. How do you use geothermal in the winter for heating? |
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Posted: 10/16/2017 7:45:47 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So... I'm stupid. How do you use geothermal in the winter for heating? |
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Posted: 10/16/2017 7:47:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So... I'm stupid. How do you use geothermal in the winter for heating? |
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Posted: 10/17/2017 12:35:20 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The simplified version is that the fluid that circulates through the loop system runs through a compressor inside the unit. The compression cycle makes heat and that heat is used to heat the house. There's a lot more to it than that, but thats the gist of it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So... I'm stupid. How do you use geothermal in the winter for heating? The ground is a rather large heat sink, with decreasing ground temps from near air temp at the surface down the 50's depending on how deep you go, where on the earth you are, and what time of year it is(this applies more to trenches/shallow wells). Deeper wells are constant temp year round, and then you pump heat into or out of them. If you don't have enough slinky in the trenches or deep/numerous enough wells, you either freeze the ground or heat soak it and the heat pump can't pump heat very well any more. If sized and placed correctly, your "ground loop" should be sufficient that you never worry about it. Eta: Should have said "slightly less simplified". 
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Posted: 10/17/2017 12:44:42 AM EDT
[#30]
One more thing: Coldair hinted at it, but the answer is no, it most likely is not worth getting geothermal. Just get an inverter compressor heat pump and MAKE SURE they size it correctly for heating as well.
I've watched some of the newer multi-zone commercial systems(VRF) work down to around 10degF and specs said they would work at even lower temps. They chug along with much lower efficiency at the low temperatures but they'll work if sized correctly. |
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Posted: 10/18/2017 9:33:21 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So... I'm stupid. How do you use geothermal in the winter for heating? The gains in using this are becoming decreasingly advantageous as regular heat-pumps continue to get more efficient and cheaper. But geo still beats them. Typically the loop/well/etc will last through the lifetime of several geo units so replacement cost isn't as high as initial install costs, and that's one thing that people fail to consider in their long-term cost/payoff calculations. The main difference with the 2 fluids is that as outside air temperature drops, and your heating demand increases, the efficiency of an air-to-air heat-pump decreases to the point that it is more economical to run electric resistance heating. Furthermore air is not a good carrier of heat, you have to move a lot of air passed the evaporator (outdoor unit when in heating mode). With a stable temperate of ~50 degrees, the water coming from the ground not only offers better heat transfer (because water is a great conductor of heat), but because it is much warmer as well. FWIW, I believe FLA on my 2-stage geothermal compressor unit is no more than 13 amps with the backup heat disabled. The pump also draws a bit but it's not horrible either. |
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Posted: 10/18/2017 12:55:01 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So... I'm stupid. How do you use geothermal in the winter for heating? |
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Posted: 10/19/2017 7:41:03 PM EDT
[#33]
No personal experience, but a coworker said he has spent roughly 3X what it would have been to just put in a conventional furnace/AC or heat pump. He's had it for around 10 years now, and seems like every other year something is going bad with it. No idea what type or manufacturer.
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Posted: 10/19/2017 8:53:22 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No personal experience, but a coworker said he has spent roughly 3X what it would have been to just put in a conventional furnace/AC or heat pump. He's had it for around 10 years now, and seems like every other year something is going bad with it. No idea what type or manufacturer. For me, It did cost 3x as much. On my taxes I got 1/3 of it back. Roughly. Even then, it did cost about twice as much. If everything lasts, my payback period is 7 years. I’m cheap with electricity. I really am. Now I don’t adjust the temperature when I’m not gonna be there. I just let it run. |
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Posted: 10/19/2017 9:49:02 PM EDT
[#35]
now airsource with an inverter series compressor, foam insulation and good windows have a much quicker payback.
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Posted: 10/20/2017 7:52:28 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
now airsource with an inverter series compressor, foam insulation and good windows have a much quicker payback. |
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Posted: 10/31/2017 4:48:47 PM EDT
[#37]
i have had mine for about 8 years now. We had the compressor replaced and the radiator thingy (recalled) replaced in the first 2 years under warranty. After that, it just runs. My total electric bill for the house, barn, and hanger are under (barely) $200 a month for everything. That is heat/cooling, lights, washer/dryer, welder, well pump, chicken house heat and lights, and everything else in the barn that gets done. 3600 square ft in the house. It is closed coils in the front yard system. Also hooked to the water heater. The backup furnace is propane. The electric backup gets very expensive if used, so we did not get that type.
I am very happy. |
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Posted: 10/31/2017 7:28:56 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
i have had mine for about 8 years now. We had the compressor replaced and the radiator thingy (recalled) replaced in the first 2 years under warranty. After that, it just runs. My total electric bill for the house, barn, and hanger are under (barely) $200 a month for everything. That is heat/cooling, lights, washer/dryer, welder, well pump, chicken house heat and lights, and everything else in the barn that gets done. 3600 square ft in the house. It is closed coils in the front yard system. Also hooked to the water heater. The backup furnace is propane. The electric backup gets very expensive if used, so we did not get that type. I am very happy. When did you have it installed? How much did you pay? what do you pay per KWH Thanks |
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Posted: 10/31/2017 7:34:00 PM EDT
[#39]
I have a closed loop for a large house. Six 150' wells. Cooling is very efficient, heat is not. When I put in an outside wood/coal burner my electric bill in the winter went from $750 to $220.
I would not do it again. |
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Posted: 11/1/2017 6:26:51 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IMHO, that's wholey dependent on local weather conditions. Minnesota, not so much because you'll be running at a reduced efficiency, or even on backup heat far more than you would be in Oregon or other climates that have long periods of needed heating, but don't really get below freezing that often. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
now airsource with an inverter series compressor, foam insulation and good windows have a much quicker payback. Everyone automatically thinks "resistance heat", but that's not the only option. |
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Posted: 11/1/2017 7:02:46 PM EDT
[#41]
This thread is relevant to my interests. I live in a 2,000 sq. ft. 3br 2ba ranch in the SF Bay Area. A friend who had a green energy startup drilled a geothermal well in my backyard (4 ton capacity) in 2010, but then he moved away. I have the well but haven't bought a heat exchanger & air handler yet.
I'm hoping to do a split system where the compressor is outside, and the only thing in the attic is the air handler. Those systems were pricey, a while back, but I haven't looked in a while. Oh, and yeah, since I'm in CA and PG&E customer, my monthly electric bill averages $450. In July & August it's closer to $700 with the A/C running quite a bit. /TCP |
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Posted: 11/1/2017 10:23:14 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This thread is relevant to my interests. I live in a 2,000 sq. ft. 3br 2ba ranch in the SF Bay Area. A friend who had a green energy startup drilled a geothermal well in my backyard (4 ton capacity) in 2010, but then he moved away. I have the well but haven't bought a heat exchanger & air handler yet. I'm hoping to do a split system where the compressor is outside, and the only thing in the attic is the air handler. Those systems were pricey, a while back, but I haven't looked in a while. Oh, and yeah, since I'm in CA and PG&E customer, my monthly electric bill averages $450. In July & August it's closer to $700 with the A/C running quite a bit. /TCP ETA: Not meaning to change the subject of the thread. I'm a little shocked at the energy costs. I'm guessing that's because of the "humans use too much of everything" mentality. |
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Posted: 11/2/2017 2:33:51 PM EDT
[#43]
a big mistake is having the electric strip for the backup furnace, which is very expensive to run when it gets too cold for the geo. I have propane for mine, and i set the thermostat to not call for it until it is reeeeallly cold(i forget the setting, will look tonite)
My friend has the electric backup, and has huge bills when it is used. My propane has only kicked on 1 time in the last 8 years(ohio). I cheated to get another few degrees though. I put the temp probe close to the house under the porch. The thermostat is fooled by about 10 degrees because the house warms the probe, thus reporting the outside temps to be 10 degrees warmer then they really are, which keeps the backup from kicking on for another 10 degrees colder. The geo has never had a problem keeping up and i want a thermostat that allows me to set that emergency temp down farther to allow the geo to keep on truckin! I also have a wood burner that i use sometimes just because i have trees falling everywhere in the woods,,but the geo is cheaper to run then burning wood,, saws, gas, work, time, ect. |
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Posted: 11/2/2017 2:46:32 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They charge y'all just to breathe out there, simply because you're a hated human, don't they? ETA: Not meaning to change the subject of the thread. I'm a little shocked at the energy costs. I'm guessing that's because of the "humans use too much of everything" mentality. /TCP |
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Posted: 11/3/2017 7:14:04 AM EDT
[#45]
Quoted:
That's a valid point, but backup heat sources don't necessarily have to be energy-inefficient. Everyone automatically thinks "resistance heat", but that's not the only option. That being said, what most people don't realize is that the efficiency numbers given my manufacturers on air-source heat-pumps don't tell the whole story. Those numbers are for moderate temps outside. As outside air temps drop the efficiency of the heat-pump drops until it becomes more economical to switch to backup heating. That's why many units now have outdoor temp probes. "Fooling the probe" is counter-productive because it really is better to switch to back-up heating at that point. By fooling it you're only putting more wear & tear on your heat-pump by forcing it to run when it's at a disadvantage to plain electric resistance heating; you're also increasing your electric usage when the efficiency drops below that of resistance heat (it's possible for a heat-pump to run less efficient than resistance heating). |
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Posted: 11/3/2017 10:47:26 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LP is darn near just as expensive as electric resistance. Average national electric rate was $0.12/kwh (3.4 cents/kbtu). Even after the recent huge price increase, propane is still around 35 percent cheaper. |
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Posted: 11/4/2017 7:57:27 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One more thing: Coldair hinted at it, but the answer is no, it most likely is not worth getting geothermal. Just get an inverter compressor heat pump and MAKE SURE they size it correctly for heating as well. I've watched some of the newer multi-zone commercial systems(VRF) work down to around 10degF and specs said they would work at even lower temps. They chug along with much lower efficiency at the low temperatures but they'll work if sized correctly. |
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Posted: 11/6/2017 12:36:34 PM EDT
[#48]
Love our geothermal!
 Our house was built in 1883 so literally no insulation in the walls as they're lath & plaster but we did have extra insulation blown into the attic and expanding foam insulation blown around the basement ceiling perimeter to eliminate drafts. Our first heating bill that first winter ('99-'00) we had the house was over $600/month and we still froze because of all the drafts and lack of insulation. The upstairs had one heat vent and it was located behind our daughters bedroom door so when the door was open it blocked the heat. Our upstairs bathroom had no heat vent (electric baseboard heat) and our bedroom had the old hole in the floor style of heat to rise from the room below. The house had no A/C so the only relief was opening windows and ceiling fans in every room during the summer. After we went on budget billing that following fall our monthly gas/electric bill still averaged over $300/month and that was with no A/C using power in the summer. Something had to change.
We installed a two ton Climate Master geothermal unit and had 4 wells each dug about 265' deep and backfilled with the grout that I can't remember its name. We had some extensive duct work done to add an air vent to the upstairs bathroom as well as other duct upgrades, etc... What sold up on the geothermal was a family in our church small group owned a geothermal company and explained everything to us in detail on pros and cons, the geothermal rebates, air/heat infiltration house test, the fact that our gas furnace was old and would need to be replaced anyway, we'd get the benefit of getting A/C from the geothermal as well as being a whole house dehumidifier as it draws air from inside the house and not the hot/cold or humid air from outside, quiet, virtually maintenance free other than changing the filter every 6 months and the cost savings of getting the "all-electric" rate of electricity after we added an electric water heater and plumbed it in conjunction with our gas hot water heater. I'm not sure on how long it will take for the system to pay for itself as some of the amount was for work that was going to have to be done anyway but I believe we paid about $18,000 for everything and filed for the rebates after that. Our electric heat backup on the geothermal has never came on except for the couple times I manually turned it on because a window had blown out and I wanted to bump start the heating process as it can take a little while for the geothermal to play catch up on heating the house if it has a large gap in temperature to reach. |
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Posted: 11/6/2017 12:48:20 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Love our geothermal! Our house was built in 1883 so literally no insulation in the walls as they're lath & plaster but we did have extra insulation blown into the attic and expanding foam insulation blown around the basement ceiling perimeter to eliminate drafts. Our first heating bill that first winter ('99-'00) we had the house was over $600/month and we still froze because of all the drafts and lack of insulation. Thanks, /TCP |
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Posted: 11/6/2017 3:49:41 PM EDT
[#50]
Yes, noticeably lower. Called my wife and she said that when we had budget billing before geothermal it was around $350-$400/month depending on how cold the winter was that year. Our bill for electric and gas is around $90 in the spring/summer/fall and around $250 in the winter (my wife likes it warm in the house...73 degrees). Hope this helps.
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