Already shared I'm under contract to close on 170 acres in Jan. '18.  

I'm pretty mechanical, hard working and not afraid to roll up my sleeves learn.  I'm also totally ignorant of [some] of the tools and supplies I'll need.  

I'm certain I'll need certain hand tools [saws, branch nippers, shovels, rakes.....] but also guess there are some that are never used in an urban/suburban place but valuable for rural settings.  Also, there are power tools [chain saws and such....] that I'll need to buy.  Finally there is equipment: trailer[s], UTV[s], Tractor and implements that I'll need.  From my earlier thread and other research I've zeroed in on a 50-100 HP diesel Kubota tractor [specifics to be determined].  I'm also planning on placing a shipping container [can buy and place one for less than $3,000 per my research] to semi-securely store stuff.  Also started a thread in the Safe/security forum asking about real time monitoring when I'm away [I live/work a little over an hour from the land].....

Still, there is still so much I don't know I don't know.  

I'm requesting what your recommendations are for said tools, power tools, equipment?  Good sources of same?  Clever DIYs.  Anything and everything to go from scratch to having what I need.  I'm more of a buy once cry once kind of guy but don't mind buying from harbor freight or other source for stuff that is adequate for the task.  

Lastly, don't want to make assumptions and buy stuff that I really don't need, isn't useful to have and store.  

Thanks in advance.

I would just buy tools as you need them as projects come up. That is what I do.

That said:

• Good cordless drill, at least 20v Lithium Ion. Think Masterforce (menards), Rockwell, etc. DeWalt is now a plastic transmission housing, so I don't buy them anymore. 
  
• Cordless sawsall to match your drill. Damn those things are handy.
• Good assortment of hand tools like an assortment of types of pliers, wire strippers, wire crimpers, screwdrivers, etc.
• A good tool belt that is modular. I like having one with suspenders.
• A few types of hammers
• Good mechanics tool set of sockets and wrenches
• Various pry bars and breaker bars (aka "cheater" bars for sockets). Most of your tools will be geared toward maintaining/fixing equipment...
• Air impact and good air compressor. Can you easily move the air compressor by hand? If so, then get a bigger one, at least with a 5hp motor. Don't fall for "oil-less" compressors. They are terrible for other than really light duty work, but I have a small 2 gallon one for use in the house for the brad nailer and such.
• Tire patching equipment and supplies. Even if you can just replace valve cores and plug tires, that is important.
• Skill saw, 7.5". 
• Compound sliding miter saw. These demand a few hundred bucks, but make construction much easier.
• Chainsaw, I like Stihl. Make sure you get an extra bar and chains and plenty of engine/bar oil at minimum to support it.
• Build a decent fueling station. Even if it utilizes 55 gallon barrels (what I do).
• Have plenty of decent quality 10/12ga extension cords. You will need at least a half dozen @ 50ft long.

Should get you going. If you get into welding/metal work, that is another world. If you get into critters, well, your money spending has only just begun 

A lot of it is seeing the project at hand, researching how its done, then acquiring the right tools and knowledge to accomplish the task. None of us know everything, most of us can fake it pretty well 

we have like 19 acres and from what i come to feel. a good size tractor is a must to do various things. preferable a box blade, brush hog, and a FEL. add a wood chipper and maybe a backhoe to it would help depending on the projects.

a good 4-wheeler or side by side with a trailer would help also for getting around the place.

tool wise would be what ever you use to get the project done. lot of cordless tools is nice with a bunch of the high capacity batteries. i would look into getting 2 chainsaws, one small one for easy carying and one for felling large trees. this depends on how much trees you have too.

first thing after closing would be to figure out where the corners of the property and make sure the fence line is nice and proper with signs posted.

next would be clearing an area for where you would set up home base. probably run some water and electricity to some kind of cabin.

I hunt on 141 acres my cousin bought a few years ago. It had been partially logged 40 years ago. Other than that nothing.
We now have a insulated cabin, 2 ponds, a lake and roads and trails cut. One pond has a dock, the lake has a beginning of a dock and a bridge to cross part of it on foot. We have fishing in 2 ponds, the lake isn't filled yet. We started stocking 2 years ago from another lake his family owns. We have breeding populations of bluegill and bass.
     If you leave ANYTHING valuable it will get stolen. A conex WILL get cut open if it's found.
Our cabin in locked up but the windows are uncovered so you can see in, there is nothing valuable there.
We have a ranger utv,  trailers 4x4 pickups and a pull behind bushhog for the utv. Hand tools and power tools and a generator for power in building made our lives mych easier. We each have a couple buddies who help us out when we do work days on big projects, but mainly its him and I going on a free day here and there to do upkeep. Our ponds and lake and roads were built by a local guy using a cat dc8 bulldozer I think.
   We are an hour away but have made sure the locals know us and let a few hunt during bow season and turkey which we don't do. Those locals keep an eye out and let the other locals know we are solid.
    Only had a few game cameras get stolen, cabin has never been broken into or fucked with.
   Other than some more hunting blinds and stands we are done other than maintenance.

Good for you man, hope I can do tge same thing one day

Oliver Wendell Douglas....is that you?

We cant tell what to buy if we dont know what you plan to do, your on the right track with the tractor
but dont go to big or too small, you'll be sorry later.

Anybody else see a guys future where everyone in the E.R. knows his name?
Chainsaws, Post hole diggers, PTO's can all kill or mane you. You tube lessons will get you hurt.

Some of us have been doing this stuff since we were kids and we still get hurt. City dudes are smart as hell at
what they do but dumb as shit when they enter our world. You can be trained, but you must be willing to learn and listen.
Your 170 acre adventure is exciting as hell, but you need to come up with a plan and get advice.


Many of us country folks are more then happy to help a guy out, you just gotta ask and buy the beer.

Appreciate all your replies.  Totally appreciate the warnings about safety and equipment.  Loved the Green Acres reference.  Although my 1st post seemed long to me your comments show I should have given you more info. so you could give me applicable advice.  

Land:  170 acres, 18 tillable, ~ 2x pasture and the rest is woods w/ a 2.5 acre pond, and a separate wet stream running thru the property.  Lots of walnut trees in the woods [which will be harvested in a sustainable way].  Other types of trees also.  In the North east part of MO [near Troy MO] so not a lot of cedar and such.   Has a 20ish yr old double wide, structurally sound on a poured foundation [contractor friend wonders if it is a modular home] with a leaking roof [22 x 48] and a 24 x 24 90% complete cottage on the property.  A decent equipment shed, a decent small barn/stable [both are corrugated steel] and a corrugated steel smoke house.  2 old barns that need to be torn down.  It has been unoccupied for quite some time.  I'm getting electricity turned on and the LP tank filled this week so we can [a] test the systems in the house, [b] test the water [has a 400 ft well that was drilled in 2008] and [c] have power to begin repairs on the house [if warranted.  There is some mold, amount is not yet determined.  If too much I'll tear down the double wide].   Fields and everything needs attention.  It is fenced at around the perimeter, older barbed wire.

My plans for the land are to rent the tillable to a farmer, put in some food plots in the pasture, along with switch grass for deer and maybe a sun flower patch for dove hunting.  Feed plots and such, I'd like to do myself.  So, deer, turkey and perhaps dove hunting.  Also want to get my grandkids involved so fishing, trail riding as well as some good, hard outdoor work for them [and me].  Lastly, men's retreats for our men's group at church.  This includes shooting [plan on setting up a range] since many haven't ever had the opportunity.  Am strongly considering bee keeping [in a year or two after I get the place cleaned up] but no live stock.  

A bit more about myself:  i'm 62 yrs old, from a blue collar family.  My dad was a machinist and we did all of our own repairs on the house and cars as a kid [including rebuilding engines and trannys].  Graduated from high school and spent a couple of years in the melt shop of a steel mill so been around and operated a bit of heavy equipment.  Put myself through college [restored a house [that was 157yrs old in 1977] while going to college full time and working part time].  I have been blessed with a successful career in finance.  Physically healthy.  Divorced, 3 sons and 3 grandsons [so far].  

The cordless tools, chain saws, extension cords and other recommendations are the kind of things I am seeking.  I have a lot of mechanics tools and machinist tools.  Looking for stuff you find you need on a recurring basis that are related to being out of the city.  Bought a condo a few years ago and got rid of all my yard equipment at that time, so will need to replace that stuff too.  

Thanks,

Get a riding mower that is comfortable to operate.

Thanks for the tip on moving felled trees.  That is the kind of stuff I need to hear.  

No McMansion, ever!  If the big home is too much work to redeem, it'll be destroyed and the small one will be finished right away.  If the big one is habitable then it'll be made so but in a 'deer camp' kind of way.  Carpeting has already been ripped out.  I will replace it with linoleum throughout and throw cheap rugs down in certain areas.  All the walls repainted same color of off white.  Used furniture and the current family room [which has 2 outside entrances [side and back] will be a large 'mud room'.  Going to build a large 'L' shaped roofed deck around the side/back [which have the 2 doors] and, hopefully make them 3 season worthy.  Would like a wood burning fire pit or stove or place on the deck as well.  Doubt the front door will ever be used.  

Long term, if the big one gets torn down now, then something other than the little cabin will be needed, but that will be a few years down the road.   There is a great spot on a hill overlooking the 18 acres tillable, creek on the other side and woods up the other way to put a house if that is needed.  

I don't think I'll ever move there full time but will be spending a bunch of time there [most weekends and hunting seasons, at least].  That isn't to say that I won't flip where I identify as my primary residence.  I am 62.  I once retired at 47 and hated it.  Started this firm about 18 months later.  I now co-own a business and don't see any reason to ever fully retire.  I can work when I want, delegate most of what I don't want to do and help people in the process.

I had already decided to contact wood recyclers and offer them the 2 buildings which need to be torn down for the wood.  I'm a waste not, recycling kind of guy.  I've identified a couple in the St Louis area already.   The guy I'm buying from was just going to doze and burn them.  I'm buying the place before he had a chance to do much of the work he was going to do to 'spruce up the place for sale'.  I paid less per acre than he was hoping to get but then he didn't have to do the clean up and he found another piece of land he wants and wanted his money out of this one.  It was a 'win/win'.  I got a bargain and he captured a quick profit.  

I bought the first piece of land I walked and it wasn't even on the market .  I thought I'd be searching for a few years.

Boy, this is a hard question.  I too would wait until a project presents itself then buy the best tool for that job I could afford because you will use that tool again, and again, and again...

I would watch two youtube channels and subscribe to them, first is Wranglerstar.  Great guy who seems to do just about everything with very good explanations of how/what he's doing. Next is Essential Craftsman, he's new but he's a wealth of old school knowledge.

Regrettably the 'big house' is the trailer [or modular, we're not sure which but will find out when we begin digging into it].  It'll be razed if not usable.  No cool 'olde house' ... boy I wish there were.  

Maybe I'll deconstruct and keep the materials in the 2 out buildings that need to be removed for other purposes.  Right now, there are many projects the first year that are a higher priority.  Those 2 buildings will have to wait their turn, no mater what their disposition.

Thanks for the info.  

So, do you haul everything up to the land each time and store nothing there?  

Have you had stuff stolen?  You say the cabin has never been molested.

Chainsaw advice -

Two saws are nice....big saw (60-70+ cc and a little saw (40-50cc).  50cc is a good middle ground for most things if you are only getting one saw (so long as you are not in huge wood and are not planning to use an Alaskan Mill).   You can also have multiple size bars and chains to suit the need.  The saw manual will tell you recommended bar sizes.  A big saw with a shorter bar is nice.   Professional grade saws will be less of a headache and last longer than a homeowner saw.  When comparing makes and models, don't focus on the bar length (you can change a bar), look at the overall weight and especially the engine size in cc.  I'd buy Stihl, Jonsered, Husqvarna, or Dolmar/Makita.    If you can't fix em yourself, choose the saw based on a nearby dealer that you like.

If you only have one saw, make sure to get a spare bar/chain in case you pinch the bar and get it stuck.

Always wear PPE.    Chaps are critical.

Take an afternoon to read or Youtube about saw skills and then practice those and stay within your experience level.  Find a local tree guy that will get big/dangerous trees on the ground for you.

Don't use ethanol gas.

Learn to sharpen chain.  You should be hitting it with a file every tank or two of fuel.   It only takes a few minutes with practice.  A dull chain is harder on the saw, harder on you, and is more prone to kickback.  

I'm not an expert, but have been cutting firewood for myself and family for as long as I can remember.

That's all I can think of....Good luck with the new land!  It sounds awesome!

By the way, the official arfcom answer is MS-661 for all things!

Thanks for the great replies.  

Are there 2 STIHL chain saws that would be big and small and for which an intermediate 'spare' bar/chain could be held in ready and fit both?  

What all is involved in sharpening a chain?  I believe there is a jig for this?

"An" as in singular




Stihl bars work on Stihl saws but I've never needed a spare bar.  Now spare chains is another matter...

Regarding what bar/chain will fit, you would need to pay attention to the chain pitch and gauge.  If they match, I think the Stihl bars will bolt up.  Your dealer should be able to tell you.

There is a Stihl sharpening kit that will help you keep the geometry correct and know when to file down the rakers.   As I mentioned above, keeping a sharp chain is ideal and it's really not that hard once you get the hang of the file.   You can also buy a few and have your dealer or saw shop sharpen them in lots.

Thanks for all the tips.

I've spent all my free time the last 2 days in youtube land watching and learning about stuff, mostly chain saw related.  

I'm most appreciative of all the good advice and ideas shared here.

I've been watching youtube videos and when it comes to sharpening chains, both CrazyRussian and WranglerStar recommend a 12 volt powered Granberg:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GCZC3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A9Z0XGT3KIV7S&psc=1

Does anyone have any experience with it or other options?  There is a manual Granberg:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZY1WG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1B7M9EQGNCLQA&psc=1

which has a slightly better user rating than the powered version.  

all things being equal, I'd think the manual one would actually be more convenient?  

Thoughts?  

How do you sharpen your chains?

Yes, we haul shit when we need to do work, most of the time it's just a chainsaw unless we have a specific project to do. This has been ongoing for a couple of years now.

A couple of game cams have been swiped but they are always stolen in KY .

Never been molested, but the windows allow you to easily see in and there is nothing of any value tot ake.

I recommend learning to hand file your chains to sharpen them. The angle guides on the files help you hold the correct angle. Once you get the idea, resharpening a chain takes about 5-8 minutes and you're back at work. The powered sharpeners take off way too much metal and very much shorten the life of your chain.

Having started  with some raw land several years ago, I highly recommend the connex to store tools, fuel and an ATV. I also recommend a Stihl or Husky Pole Saw, you can safely cut a lot from ground level to 12 feet which a traditional saw can't do safely (I.e. cutting above shoulder height). Have 50 cc chain saw as a backup as well as plenty of screnches, wedges, log tongs and log manipulation tools such as chains, peavy's or can't hooks.

Having power and water puts you way ahead of the game developing the property.

Post puller

Do you mean something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KJOJE8U/ref=asc_df_B01KJOJE8U5212808/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01KJOJE8U&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167150018785&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2075725709585793098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022811&hvtargid=pla-306693450713

When confronted with pulling a post I'd be inclined to get a 2x4 as the lever, a piece of fire wood as the fulcrum and a bit of chain.  When done the wood would go back on their respective piles.  Am I missing something?  

Thanks

Yep, I figure having water, power and gas there saved me $20-25k.  I believe the double wide will be restorable [I'll know 2 weekends from now when I go up there and tear into it.  Not able to get the gas filled until Monday 10-16].  

Ya, I'm still strongly leaning toward getting a 40' connex.  Think I'll use it as the 1 side for a car port by putting it uphill a bit and then building a roof resting on posts downhill side.  It'll be the north side of the carport [place has no garage of any sort, does have an equipment shed] providing extra protection as well as storage.  

My Dad, having been a machinist, would whole heartily agree about hand filing.  I've seen him do amazing things with a file, chicle and hammer.  I'm leaning toward to manual sharpening as well.  I'll need large and small chain saws but I'm not going to be logging.  The amount of sharpening I'll need to do can be done by hand.  

I haven't researched chain saws, and an decision element will be convenience of a dealer, but I was thinking Stihl.  Essential Craftsman suggests buying chain saws new since used chain saws are often mistreated and a false bargin.

Buy the pole Saw as your small Saw and you'll be able to handle anything. If you've done machinist work with files, you'll find hand sharpening stupid simple. In general you only need to sharpen the cutters and almost never the rakers.

A 40 foot connex is cheaper per square foot in my area than the 20 footers because of the larger demand for the smaller unit.

As some others have said, a chainsaw will be very valuable. A large and small one is the perfect setup.

I'm thinking 2 chain saws, small and large as recommended.  

Just learned that one of my buddy's son in law sells Husqvarna chain saws.  

Any reason why I wouldn't want to buy that brand?

What sizes?  

Thanks

its a good brand just like shtil and other pro brands. we have like 2 "huskie" chainsaws. something like the rancher 455 and the 435. both run flawless for us in our dense wooded 19acers. also have the 223l string trimmer that has never given us any problem for 3+ years.

also had a polen cheepie chainsaw that lasted 5-6 years that just died but that was a $100 chainsaw. just got another one because it was good to run hard and put away wet and not care about it.

If you've got a good connection with Husky, probably not a bad idea. I run an Echo CS 400 for my small saw and CS 590 for the large one. I chose Echo because I knew people that worked for our local school system and they use Echo. I was told they run them hard and you can't hardly kill them. There is also a Echo dealer 2 minutes from my work, so it wasn't a hard choice.

The 400 is my go to saw, power to weight ratio is great. I'm on my second one in 10 years and I use them a lot, not like a professional , but a lot. I ran it today about 6 hours straight clearing a bunch of storm damage trees across one of my roads. Good luck with the sharpening, I gave up on it. It's much easier to just let my dealer sharpen them for me. I work full time and farm on the side so it just made better since for me to let my dealer do it. He does it much better than me and it gives me more time working at the farm.

Choose the person who leases your farm wisely. The man that leases most of our farm is great and has helped  me a lot with random tasks because he has awesome equipment. I have heard bad stories though of property damage and general asshatery.

If you are going to do a lot of fencing, you'll need an auger for your tractor. Get one much bigger and tougher than you think you'll need. If you have a lot of clay and rock, a tractor auger will be frustrating. Plot out your holes and rent a skid steer with a auger attachment and you can get the job done MUCH quicker and easier. I used one to dig a half mile of brace post holes last year, and I really don't ever want to use a 3 point hitch auger on a tractor ever again.

I'm not a Husky guy, but they make quality saws.  If you like the Husky dealer, no reason not to go that route.  Sorry, no help on the Husky saw sizes.

Buy Stihl.  Second choice is Stihl.    Everyone I know, or see, that depend on a saw to heat their house or make a living, runs Stihl.  I cut at least 8 cords a year (I've got 10 cords out back ready for winter right now, it is getting out of hand, actually....), and maintain a couple miles of roads on my 160 acres and have run the snot out of an MS251/291 and an old 021 saw.  16 and 20" bars.  I also really like my Stihl brush cutter.    Use high octane gas and the ethanol treatment/fuel stabilizer and you won't have a problem.  My saws start right up, run all day.  No drama.  I change the plugs and air filters once a year.  

I feel most people buy too cheap, and too big a saw.  The cheap saws don't run well and too big is too heavy and they get tired and can't handle the machine.  Buy chaps, gloves, safety boots, and the combo helmet/ear pro/face shield.  My MS 251 came with an 18" bar.  I replaced it with a 16" bar and run the yellow label non safety chain and it cuts so fast it almost isn't fair.  I can cut so much wood, so fast, I don't get tired.  My MS291 has a 20" bar and that is big enough for 38"+ log.  Not too many of those will I ever have to deal with.  If I did, I'd go by a 24" bar and a couple of chains.  

Have fun, one of the best ways to get to sleep at night is to cut wood for a few hours.

Lots of good advice so far.

My number one recommendation is if at all possible get a tractor with a cab and A/C.

It will make your life much better.

You can stay cool, you won't be breathing as much dust and you can avoid getting swarmed by Yellow jackets/Hornets/Bumble bees.

Oh, a front end loader for the tractor with a fork attachment is a necessity.

Box blade, rock rake, rotary mower, post hole auger, seed/fertilizer spreader, electric or pto powered sprayer are all handy.

Thanks for the advice

By "high octane" do you mean 91 from a regular filling station?  What ethanol treatment and fuel stabilizer do you use?  

What kind/style of Stihl brush cutter do you run?

So, looking for tractors and a knowledgeable post, preceding, suggested buying used.  

How does someone as ignorant as I know what is a good buy used?  

Is there a number of hours per year since model was produced metric?  

How does one determine if it is in good shape or not?  

Are tractors like Jeeps [basically depreciate very slowly and linearly [when I bought mine, new, I figured about $1,000 a year]] or some other depr. model?  

I'm leaning toward Kubota but am not afraid of other known brands.  Don't want to take a chance on anything without a known reputation.  

Thanks,

I use 93 octane from BP, and the recommended fuel stabilizer my Stihl dealership has.  I can't think of the brand, or I use Sta-Bil Marine grade.  I've never had any ethanol issues in my 3 Stihl saws or brush cutter.  Always run the saws dry of fuel.  

As far as brush cutters, the one I have isn't really powerful enough, if you are needing to cut lots of saplings, briars, etc, get the one with the biggest engine.  We have a nearly useless bush called Autumn Olive here that grows about 3-6' a year, so I use it for cutting down those.  For heavy old briar thickets you'll probably need to spray an herbicide like Crossbow and then burn or crush/brushog it.  

Watch out for poison ivy, which is a whole nutha thread.

Thanks.....

I know all about P. Ivy after a sever attack one time which overcame my theretofore lack of effect about it.  

I will look for proper octane, stabilizer and run them dry at season's end.  

Been a bit under the weather today and spend all day, after church, watching YouTube vids on tractors, chain saws and other stuff.... Not the first day to be certain... learning all the time....

So much to learn!

Some easement issues have arisen with my land purchase.  I believe they'll be worked out and all will be well.  There are so many variables and issues needing attention, the easement isn't even it the top 10 at this point.

Slowly making progress.