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[#1]
Quoted:
@watercat I saw some other photos of the shed area, and the slope in your back yard (in a thread in DIY). It's not nearly as sloped as I though it might be. I think I would still consider checking whether there is adequate drainage by that side of the house, carrying the water AWAY from the foundation. But I would not imagine that you would need more tiles (even if you need that) unless the area is incredibly poorly drained, and you would know that by now. Take pics if you can, when you cut that corner down and get some of that dirt out of there. And let us know how it works when you get some good rains. I bet the removal of the sniper perch shed, and the removal of any "hump" that's by the driveway, will do what you need. View Quote It's really hard to get a picture of a slope, especially when it is (1) gradual and (2) changes slope midway through the yard. I took a bunch of pictures trying to get it. I don't *think* water pools along the foundation of the house/garage, although I'll admit that I haven't walked back there during or after a really heavy rain to check. At the edge of the yard/driveway interface there is some sort of old-to-ancient drain that routes water around the perimeter of the house and exits towards the base of the driveway. I'm assuming that's the drain tile you say would be helpful. I can't get a picture of it because there isn't really anything to photograph - it's a little strip in the driveway and a hidden PVC exit pipe. We have no clue how it works, and hiring a company to scope it for us isn't high on our priority list since it still generally works with minimal maintenance from us. The plan, when we get to it, is to do as you suggested about grading the dirt to try and prevent ponding. You're right about the little shed dumping water onto the area that drains into the garden we had problems with. We do intend to get rid of it, when my dad and uncles can coordinate and come get it. I'm hoping that we can at least get the grading done this fall so we can see what happens when it rains during the fall, before we can sod it in the spring. (On a side question, can we in north Texas lay sod in early February, successfully? In Houston, we did sod in January and it took off fantastically, but Houston doesn't freeze...) |
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[#2]
@Joemama
Post above...question at bottom about sod in North Tejas. Watercat, if it's working, you're right to not mess with it. If you see water coming out of it when it rains, and it's not soggy by your foundation, you have what you need. But that is something to check for. Over years, a drain CAN fill up, and result in damage to the foundation. So if you start seeing soggy against the house in a rainy season, pay attention. Note: I'm not talking about those times it comes what some of the old folks in certain parts of the county here would call a "Goose Drownder" (Yes, that's right. Not a goose drowner, but a goose DROWNDER, with a D) when rain is pouring over the edges of the gutters and there is water everywhere. Most drains can't keep up with that even in perfect condition. But if you get a day or two of rain, go out there, and it's mushy right up against your house, you should pay attention to that. So just notice it every year or two. It's a good excuse to go out in a nice, warm rain and splash in the puddles and remember what it felt like to be a kid, too. We don't do nearly enough of that. At least I don't. |
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[#3]
Quoted:
@Joemama Post above...question at bottom about sod in North Tejas. Watercat, if it's working, you're right to not mess with it. If you see water coming out of it when it rains, and it's not soggy by your foundation, you have what you need. But that is something to check for. Over years, a drain CAN fill up, and result in damage to the foundation. So if you start seeing soggy against the house in a rainy season, pay attention. Note: I'm not talking about those times it comes what some of the old folks in certain parts of the county here would call a "Goose Drownder" (Yes, that's right. Not a goose drowner, but a goose DROWNDER, with a D) when rain is pouring over the edges of the gutters and there is water everywhere. Most drains can't keep up with that even in perfect condition. But if you get a day or two of rain, go out there, and it's mushy right up against your house, you should pay attention to that. So just notice it every year or two. It's a good excuse to go out in a nice, warm rain and splash in the puddles and remember what it felt like to be a kid, too. We don't do nearly enough of that. At least I don't. View Quote |
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[#7]
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We have a great long growing season. However that also manifests itself in the huge amount of trimming and maintenance on the greenery around the house. Rosebushes all around the house cut back from 7' back to 3 feet just like we did last year. The crepe myrtles got cut way back and trimmed way up. Had to take the dead top out of a juniper that frames the entrance to the house - it was succumbing to the same bug that killed two other evergreens in my yard. Hopefully the BT spray my neighbor offered takes care of the problem. The trimmings were clipped and compacted but still took up six full cardboard boxes which were big enough to fit dining room chairs. I haven't gotten to the fruit trees that we planted early this year yet as I am waiting for a freeze to kill the leaves first. There is one tree or bush I am unable to identify, and was hoping someone here could help me out. It is badly unkempt and doesn't appear to have been pruned before. I am hopeful it is some sort of mast producing tree. Height is about 5-6 foot. Location is north central TX if that helps. Sorry about the ipotato. tree http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1605/13755616/24792045/413666401.jpg leaves http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1605/13755616/24792045/413666402.jpg View Quote |
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[#9]
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[#11]
Hi,
I'm wanting to create several raised beds for blooming pollinator plants. Some of these plants may be started from seeds and others from potted plants. The planter boxes will have full sun so moisture control is a concern initially. What is good height for the side walls? Is there any health concerns about using pressure treated lumber verses cedar? Do you recommend placing a weed cloth/barrier down before adding the grow materials? If so, which one? Any other suggestions would be helpful... Thanks for the help. |
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[#12]
Quoted:
Hi, I'm wanting to create several raised beds for blooming pollinator plants. Some of these plants may be started from seeds and others from potted plants. The planter boxes will have full sun so moisture control is a concern initially. What is good height for the side walls? Is there any health concerns about using pressure treated lumber verses cedar? Do you recommend placing a weed cloth/barrier down before adding the grow materials? If so, which one? Any other suggestions would be helpful... Thanks for the help. View Quote To give you useful answers, I need some additional information (I know, shocker, right? ) 1-What are you going to grow, and what are you going to use those plants to pollinate? (Understanding your program will allow me to give you more concise and complete answers.) Do you have interest in "organically grown" as your end result? Will you be using whatever you harvest to make essential oils? Feed birds? Feed horses? Or what? I know those seem like picky questions, but the end product is what you must start with, to get what you want, if you're talking pollination of something. 2-What does your ground currently look like? Basically, tell me what's UNDER where you're going to put the planter boxes? is it clay? Is it a nice dark mix of sand/silt/clay? Is it asphalt? Or concrete? Or is it full of rocks? Is it an old driveway and has lots of gravel? Is it where an old house once sat? Etc. 3-How many beds are you talking about, and what is the area like where you're placing them? (I mean, is it your lawn? Or somewhere in the middle of a fescue pasture? Is it an overgrown lot with a lot of invasive weeds? Are the woods around you? (this is related to question 2, but is not the same--I need to know what is growing around your potential garden that could invade it.) ) 4-What is your general location/zone/region...basically, where are you located? (Because for moisture control, your climate makes a big difference in your approach) |
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[#15]
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Bumpity Bump Bump. It's about that time. View Quote I will be coming here for some advice on varieties and how to arrange some things. Want to do things a bit more 'by the book' this time around instead of shooting from the hip. Probably save time/aggravation, money? later on down the line. And now the Excursion just broke down today. Sounds like about $500 in parts to rebuild the front end . Lost the hub. Since I'm going to be in there, it will get both hubs, u joints, ball joints, axle seals, maybe fix whatever is making the steering loose.... |
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[#16]
Quoted:
I still have trees to cut down before the ground thaws out! I will be coming here for some advice on varieties and how to arrange some things. Want to do things a bit more 'by the book' this time around instead of shooting from the hip. Probably save time/aggravation, money? later on down the line. And now the Excursion just broke down today. Sounds like about $500 in parts to rebuild the front end . Lost the hub. Since I'm going to be in there, it will get both hubs, u joints, ball joints, axle seals, maybe fix whatever is making the steering loose.... View Quote The thing about brambles is they spread like crazy, and no matter what you use for terracing, they're going to grow through the spaces in the walls. ALSO, the brambles, though they need full sun, are capable of producing at the "edge" of the open area, and doing a good job of that. I'm not entirely sure of your goals. If you are growing "for sale" and need maximum production in minimum space, everything needs full sun and any aesthetics fall away. If you're growing for family, and want beauty as well as production, that's a better balance for making things pretty. I'm thinking that if you do terraces, there are some things to consider in that vein. Like.....grow the brambles at the very top, and the very bottom of the section maybe. So you basically have two "walls" of brambles in your designated "berry" area. Leave a wide section for those, and make those your border up against whatever else is bordering that section. In the middle of that, build terraces. Build at least every other one wide enough to walk on, OR build them all wide enough for your little tractor to traverse. HERE, I would lay out my terraces, then dig down a foot, lay a gravel footer, then dry stack something. Concrete blocks with split faces would be pretty. Field stone would be prettier if you could scavenge that much. Treated lumber, railroad ties, tree trunks, etc. Now then, all that said, even though these terraces are not going to be very deep, you're talking about destabilizing your hillside, to a certain degree. Here in my clay-based soils, I would not be afraid to do that without any input. I don't know your soil, I don't know the extent of your slope, and how likely you are to cause instability in the hillside by doing this. You really don't want a hard washing rain three seasons from now to take off the entire side of that hill. Maybe that's not an issue. Around here, a friend who used to run a backhoe for a living was asked by a doctor we know to dig his pool, and dig out for him to have a stone retaining wall placed not far away. Doc wanted to contract this himself and sub out the jobs. Roy, the backhoe guy said, "Doc, you're going to collapse the ground. You have to drive rods into the side of that hill, and anchor them into the wall for stability, if you're going to put a retaining wall there with a pool that close This stuff right here....this is where the extent of Kitties' knowledge meets what she does not know. Understand? ETA: @Rat_Patrol do you have a topo map of your property? And if so, can you take a photo of it and outline your land so I can see the lay of it? |
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[#17]
The topo is kind of crappy, but the hill I'm going to want to terrace on will be about a 20 ft total drop, but I may not use all of it.
I'll have to work on surveying it myself at some point here. |
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[#18]
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[#19]
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[#21]
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[#22]
Bump.
Anybody got immediate needs coming into spring landscaping season? |
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[#23]
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[#25]
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[#26]
Will do! Thanks for the help.
Probably won't be until tomorrow. My 3 yo daughter had eye surgery today, so it's been a long one. |
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[#27]
Quoted:
Will do! Thanks for the help. Probably won't be until tomorrow. My 3 yo daughter had eye surgery today, so it's been a long one. View Quote I won't get back to you that quickly, so don't hurry that much. Just if people wait and say, "I'm doing some landscaping TOMORROW, what do I need to do?" they're going to be SOL this spring. It takes me a while to get to a still point so I can cobble enough gray matter together to come up with workable solutions. |
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[#28]
@Lattimer
Do you still need help? I'm in the middle of a hospital stay for my mom, which means I'm a little crazed, but in the quiet times, I could think about design and other issues for people. Maybe. Got a book to edit this week and I'm behind, but in a few days there should be some free brain cells. |
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[#29]
Have new house build, moved in last Oct.
House sits in approx 3 acre old farm field in edge of woods. Put in lawn last fall, approx 20-25 ft all around house and barn. Used "eco-lawn" fine fescues, seems to be doing real well so far. 1) any experience with just fine fescues? rest of field is going to be native grasses and forbs, think prairie. .6 acres is already going, has one summer growth on it. the rest approx 2 acres will be seeded this may/june and covered with straw to keep moisture in and erosion down. 2) any words of wisdom with native grasses and forbs? Need to add plants around house itself. Talked to several landscape designers. Very disappointing. Only one took a good look at place, took pictures, asked questions. 3)Why do all landscape designer and garden centers only seem knowledgeable on cultivars and hybrids? No knowledge on native plants, better for pollinators, birds and wildlife. |
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[#30]
Quoted:
Have new house build, moved in last Oct. House sits in approx 3 acre old farm field in edge of woods. Put in lawn last fall, approx 20-25 ft all around house and barn. Used "eco-lawn" fine fescues, seems to be doing real well so far. 1) any experience with just fine fescues? rest of field is going to be native grasses and forbs, think prairie. .6 acres is already going, has one summer growth on it. the rest approx 2 acres will be seeded this may/june and covered with straw to keep moisture in and erosion down. 2) any words of wisdom with native grasses and forbs? Need to add plants around house itself. Talked to several landscape designers. Very disappointing. Only one took a good look at place, took pictures, asked questions. 3)Why do all landscape designer and garden centers only seem knowledgeable on cultivars and hybrids? No knowledge on native plants, better for pollinators, birds and wildlife. View Quote I can't GIVE those answers until Saturday. (Mom in hospital, book deadline at same time.) I hope that will be soon enough. Just the time to type it. I'm doing a drive by to check threads, but will be back more after I turn this book in. |
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[#31]
Also mixed small white clover with grass/fescues.
Seemed like a good idea, they kind of complement each other. Any thoughts on that? |
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[#32]
Quoted:
Have new house build, moved in last Oct. House sits in approx 3 acre old farm field in edge of woods. So....what do you mean "old farm field in edge of woods"? Does your house sit in the edge of the woods, with farm field as part of your yard? Can you take pics or give me an overhead view? Put in lawn last fall, approx 20-25 ft all around house and barn. Used "eco-lawn" fine fescues, seems to be doing real well so far. 1) any experience with just fine fescues? Only for golf course purposes, and that's not my main focus (read "learned it and used it in school but has not worked in that specifically for real-world experience") I usually go for a mix of coarser fescues (planted thickly so they grow "less coarse" and KY bluegrass or other cool season grass for finer texture. But I'm in a completely different region/environment than you. You should rely on your county agent or local resources to pick grasses. Do not rely on me. ) rest of field is going to be native grasses and forbs, think prairie. This is fabulous. I freaking LOVE the native grass projects in our area. A field across from us (catty cornered) has been done this way for the past few years. The wildlife in our area has EXPLODED. Quail everywhere. More doves than we had before. Deer are so very happy. Turkey population is doing great. Rabbit population actually down a little I think, though that may be due to the increased number of houses on our side of the road. I was thinking it was a better balance of predators/prey. Hawk population is steady or up. Owl population--hard to say, but we have some resident owls that have been here for years and I'd like to think the prairie grass project provides them with more food. It's also truly beautiful. No, it's not a groomed green pasture with white painted plank fences and thoroughbreds grazing on pristine landscape. But I like this better. .6 acres is already going, has one summer growth on it. the rest approx 2 acres will be seeded this may/june and covered with straw to keep moisture in and erosion down. 2) any words of wisdom with native grasses and forbs? Need to add plants around house itself. Talked to several landscape designers. Very disappointing. Only one took a good look at place, took pictures, asked questions. If this were MY property, I will say that I would do a "transition" type landscape using a lot of grassy ornamentals (mixed with other stuff) to blend your prairie grass landscape with the edge of the woods. You can do that easily using natives. You will have to learn/know which native "understory" trees grow in the woods around you. Some of them will be familiar to me. Others, not. This will be a much nicer, more natural looking landscape than if you put in a typical suburban landscape in the middle of your very "native-looking" environment. 3)Why do all landscape designer and garden centers only seem knowledgeable on cultivars and hybrids? No knowledge on native plants, better for pollinators, birds and wildlife. I have ideas on why this happens. I don't know if they're correct. Basically when you open a garden center, you are going to cater to the largest population of your customers. and that means suburbanites and city dwellers. If you drive down any street in the city or suburbs, you are going to see landscapes that include, all total, about 20 particular plants (these plants will be different based on region of course). Those plants are proven varietals. They are easy to grow, likely to thrive in the anticipated environment, they are easy to maintain and will look as good here as they do there. They will provide a textbook lawn/landscape at the lowest possible cost. To the untrained eye, in comparison, natives look weedy, loose, and unkempt. They look like a fencerow rather than a "groomed" yard. Their blooms are smaller and of shorter duration (usually). This does not have to be the case, but the bottom line is that 99 percent of people know NOTHING about landscape plants. Even good veggie gardeners don't know much about hollies, viburnum, or cottoneaster. So they need to make their yard look decent, and they don't know what to do. So they look at a "landscaping for dummies" book (if they look at anything) and they look at their neighbor's yard. And they go to the garden center and they ask for those things. And MOST garden center employees are no better trained than the people at Lowe's or Home Depot (which is not at all, usually). There are exceptions, I'm sure. Those people rely on the little card poked into the pot to tell them what to say to the customer. A very high number of landscapers are trained at just about this same level. They know how to dig a hole, dump out a plant, stick it in the hole, and cover it up. Pile on a bunch of mulch so it looks nice. They are usually very good at mowing and own big-ass, expensive mowers with nice trailers to haul those around. Yup. That's why. View Quote I need photos. Of your house (or a description of the style and color) and anything you can give me of the surrounding landscape, the views from main windows, porches, doors, etc. I also need an overhead view. you can get this from Google Earth probably. Mark out any identifying information (or send it to me in an IM and I'll do that for you in a photo program if you can't do it and are willing to trust me. It's okay if you are not. I'm very private and understand the need for security.) |
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[#33]
Quoted:
Also mixed small white clover with grass/fescues. Seemed like a good idea, they kind of complement each other. Any thoughts on that? View Quote When my grandfather or my father sewed a lawn, they often sewed fescue, bluegrass and white clover mix. I cannot even tell you how many times I stepped on a honeybee running barefooted through the yard. If you have not taken a look at some of the more progressive golf courses, you should do that. I'll see if I can find you some links. you have the opportunity to do some amazing things with native plants. Shortsighted people want to eradicate broomsage. I would be planting it in clumps, because it's beautiful year-round. Plants that provide winter interest are especially valuable in more northern climates, because winter is so long. |
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[#34]
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[#37]
to give you idea on size of field its 250 ft east to west x about 900 ft north to south.
House is located so that it can't be seen from road. driveway goes thru approx 900 ft of woods till it hits fields. When I bought the place the field was an old farm field that had not been used in approx 20 years. So it was over grown with lots of box elder and ash, mostly canada golden rod. Some buckthorn and multiflora rose which I cut and cleared all of it. Woods are typical northern hardwoods, sugar maple, red and white oak, lots of shag bark hickory, Black Cherry, Aspen, some beech, bitternut hickory and a few elm, red maple. Not really lots of under growth in most areas. But what there is is usually gray dogwood, hazelnut, ironwood and forbs. Lots of woodland flowers in spring, bloodroot, wild geranium, triliums, poke milkweed that sort of stuff. I would like to hear your thoughts on landscaping around house. Your comment on a smooth edge from native grasses to woods is not of concern as it will be trail and rock walls for the most part. It did make me think of edge from yard to native grasses. I have thought of a good blend between those 2 and I can't come up with any thing. Around the house we would like to keep bushes shrubs no taller than 6 ft on south side (bottom of windows) and about 3-4 ft on the rest of the house. General ideas and dos and don'ts are helpful. If you want more infor pictures let me know. House is not on google earth yet. Thanks much, any words of wisdom are always appreciated. |
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[#39]
Great thread. I have been trying to figure out what to do with my landscaping. I had the concrete guys tear out the nasty mess of bushes that were there when I bought the house, and I haven't figured out what to do since. Simple planter(s) along the edge of the walk and possibly the yard. minimal maintenance. Don't know anything about design and plants though. Any helpful hints or advice would be great.
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[#40]
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[#41]
And the back patio area of the deck and behind the garage. Ash tree is coming out and need to decide what all to do.
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[#42]
Quoted:
to give you idea on size of field its 250 ft east to west x about 900 ft north to south. House is located so that it can't be seen from road. driveway goes thru approx 900 ft of woods till it hits fields. When I bought the place the field was an old farm field that had not been used in approx 20 years. So it was over grown with lots of box elder and ash, mostly canada golden rod. Some buckthorn and multiflora rose which I cut and cleared all of it. Woods are typical northern hardwoods, sugar maple, red and white oak, lots of shag bark hickory, Black Cherry, Aspen, some beech, bitternut hickory and a few elm, red maple. Not really lots of under growth in most areas. But what there is is usually gray dogwood, hazelnut, ironwood and forbs. Lots of woodland flowers in spring, bloodroot, wild geranium, triliums, poke milkweed that sort of stuff. I would like to hear your thoughts on landscaping around house. Your comment on a smooth edge from native grasses to woods is not of concern as it will be trail and rock walls for the most part. It did make me think of edge from yard to native grasses. I have thought of a good blend between those 2 and I can't come up with any thing. Around the house we would like to keep bushes shrubs no taller than 6 ft on south side (bottom of windows) and about 3-4 ft on the rest of the house. General ideas and dos and don'ts are helpful. If you want more infor pictures let me know. House is not on google earth yet. Thanks much, any words of wisdom are always appreciated. View Quote If I were doing the prairie grass thing, I would do a transition strip of shorter grasses between my yard and the taller grasses/forbs in all places where the tall ones are going. In my experience, being at the edge of a yard with the taller grasses and herbaceous plants right beside me, is that it's a little "too close" and I'd rather have a buffer zone that eases me into it, both visually and physically when I'm walking through. (does that make sense?) it feels less like a wall and more like a natural transition. Nature does natural, curving transitions. You''ve done great with the curves. Now I have some questions... 1-What do you want for your back yard. How do you plan to use that? As a patio? Will there be a deck? Is that an entertaining space? A play yard for kids, complete with equipment? If you can take Google earth and draw your house on it (just a square will do), with outbuilding and the other structures, that would be really helpful for offering specifics rather than just generalities. Don't know if that's possible for you. 2-Do you want shade? 3-Tell me how you envision using these spaces. What is your everyday life like in this new home? Do you like long views across the yard? Or do you like avenues of longer view, mixed with groupings of plantings that lend a cozier, more intimate feeling to the area around your house? If you're not clear by what I mean when I talk in these abstract ideas, just holler. I'll find examples. When I look out at that space, from both the ground at your house and from the upstairs windows, my tendency is to want to soften the edges of the prairie grass/lawn transitions with a few groupings of small trees. Like maybe an evergreen or two and a dogwood or redbud against them. I also think a transition at the sides of the driveway where it exits the woods might be nice. BUT....I need to know how YOU see your property, what YOU think is beautiful, and when you're lying in your hammock on warm spring afternoons a few years from now, what you'd like to see, where that hammock will be, and what your ideal property will look like. Make sense? ETA: Basically I would want to maintain many views of the woods from all vantage points, but intersperse those views with some closer groups of plantings here and there. |
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[#43]
Quoted:
I just got through having several thousand dollars worth of sewer work done and now my front yard looks like a WWI battlefield, only without the barbed wire and mustard gas. The worst part is that when they filled in the hole, any topsoil I had is at the bottom, and all I have in my front yard is clay and (eventually) weeds. I spoke to my local dirt source, and they sent a guy out that said I need $500 worth of "shredded" dirt and $500 worth of work, but since I more or less have to start from scratch, I am open to suggestions... https://i.imgur.com/eGgJjGr.jpg The plumbers said that they weren't landscapers or concrete guys, and they weren't kidding. View Quote What a mess! What capabilities do you have on your own? Are you going to hire all of this done? or are you going to do some of it yourself? ETA: Can I get a little wider view--either from the street looking at it so I can see the extent of it and how it fits around your house, or from the driveway or porch outward? If you don't want to post that here, you're welcome to post in an IM to me. It will be kept private. |
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[#44]
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And the back patio area of the deck and behind the garage. Ash tree is coming out and need to decide what all to do. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440378/20180422_173148__1_-523028.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440378/20180422_173206__1_-523029.JPG View Quote 1-On the front, you said, "simple planters, low maintenance...." etc. a-Are you saying you want NO in-ground landscaping in front? b-how "deep" is that front yard? I mean how far is it from the sidewalk to the edge of the front porch? c-How deep is the porch from outside edge to front door? d-It looks like the columns go from the porch up to the roof, spanning two stories. Is this correct? 2-In the back... a- why is the ash tree coming out? Is it sick? b-Were those pavers there, and you took them up? Do you have plans for those? c-What do you want to use that space for? is that going to be the outside entertaining area? Tell me what you want to do back there. ETA: d--how long have you been in this house? Did you just move here? have you seen what comes up in/around the yard through a full season? I'm looking at that curious mound of dirt in the middle of that back "patio" area. I'm wondering if that's a bunch of cool flowers that are not up yet. You're in a colder climate, so everything you have will be way behind what I have here. ETA2: I love the color of your siding and the columns. Is this a split level? The windows at front porch level are throwing me. |
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[#45]
Quoted: Questions: 1-On the front, you said, "simple planters, low maintenance...." etc. a-Are you saying you want NO in-ground landscaping in front? Should have said planting beds. Was thinking in ground. Open to options b-how "deep" is that front yard? I mean how far is it from the sidewalk to the edge of the front porch? 25ft about c-How deep is the porch from outside edge to front door?4 ft d-It looks like the columns go from the porch up to the roof, spanning two stories. Is this correct? 1.5 stories, house is split level 2-In the back... a- why is the ash tree coming out? Is it sick? not sure, ash borer is in the area though. Branches are a mess and seems to be losing some more recently. An opportunity came up to get it out of there by trading off some stuff so I took it. b-Were those pavers there, and you took them up? Do you have plans for those? Yes they were. around the tree and everything. Started taking the ones out around the tree, but didn't pull any more so it wouldn't become a muddy mess. No real plans for them. c-What do you want to use that space for? is that going to be the outside entertaining area? Tell me what you want to do back there. I had thought about outside entertaining space. Possibly a place for a non-permanent fire pit, I think that would add the most value and appeal. Otherwise just more yard and keep a walkway to the garage. ETA: d--how long have you been in this house? Did you just move here? have you seen what comes up in/around the yard through a full season? I'm looking at that curious mound of dirt in the middle of that back "patio" area. I'm wondering if that's a bunch of cool flowers that are not up yet. You're in a colder climate, so everything you have will be way behind what I have here.been here 9 years, the curious mound of dirt is exactly that LOL. Dirt/sod I dumped there last fall. More limestone under that area. I have zero plants or flowers anywhere in the landscaping. ETA2: I love the color of your siding and the columns. Is this a split level? The windows at front porch level are throwing me. Thank you. I had all that done a couple of years ago. House is a split level. View Quote |
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[#46]
Quoted: View Quote The back will be a little harder, but not troublesome. I hate that you're losing the tree. That's a nice asset. Is that door coming out to the pavers --is that the garage? Where is the kitchen door? Off the deck? Any plans to expand the deck at all? Do you store stuff under it? Is there currently a path around the side of the house to the back from the front? Do you want plantings down the sides of the house? What capabilities do you have, and what would you have to hire out? (Basically what are you willing to do/plan to do and how hard are you willing to work? ) What was there before that you thought was ugly? |
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[#47]
Quoted: Okay I have a design in mind for you that I think would complement the formal, symmetrical lines of your house and show off those lovely columns and front door. The back will be a little harder, but not troublesome. I hate that you're losing the tree. That's a nice asset. there is a maple in the backyard as well. Shades the deck/patio area in the aftenoon Is that door coming out to the pavers --is that the garage? yes, garage access door Where is the kitchen door? Off the deck? slider on the deck coming off the dining room Any plans to expand the deck at all? Do you store stuff under it? no plans to expand the deck - I have crap under it now, but plans to clean it out and finish the lathe around the bottom. Side facing the golf coarse is done. Not opposed to plantings around the deck. Is there currently a path around the side of the house to the back from the front? No path Do you want plantings down the sides of the house?Wouldn't be opposed to them. What capabilities do you have, and what would you have to hire out? (Basically what are you willing to do/plan to do and how hard are you willing to work? ) Willing to put in the work. I'm handy enough to do the work, just need some help with the designs. What was there before that you thought was ugly? Only landscaping ever was some unkempt overgrown bush (juniper?) along the entire front that completely blocked everything off. View Quote |
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[#48]
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[#49]
Quoted: Your property is lovely, and I really like the choices you made with your house. It's gorgeous. I love the red. In winter, that will look like a postcard. If I were doing the prairie grass thing, I would do a transition strip of shorter grasses between my yard and the taller grasses/forbs in all places where the tall ones are going. In my experience, being at the edge of a yard with the taller grasses and herbaceous plants right beside me, is that it's a little "too close" and I'd rather have a buffer zone that eases me into it, both visually and physically when I'm walking through. (does that make sense?) it feels less like a wall and more like a natural transition. Nature does natural, curving transitions. You''ve done great with the curves. Now I have some questions... 1-What do you want for your back yard. How do you plan to use that? As a patio? Will there be a deck? Is that an entertaining space? A play yard for kids, complete with equipment? If you can take Google earth and draw your house on it (just a square will do), with outbuilding and the other structures, that would be really helpful for offering specifics rather than just generalities. Don't know if that's possible for you. Here is picture of back of house looking south west., patio area can be seen. No deck, not party people, just a couple of friends now and then. Grilling out, table and chairs. Kids are all adults, no equipment. I have a drwing of house in field, will see if I can post it here. 2-Do you want shade? any sizeable trees close to house No, not really, wife does not want trees close to house (no raking of leaves). Shade will be sitting on either east or west side of house. Patio is on east side so shaded in afternoon when grilling out. Porch on west side so there is only sun on it for a little while in late afternoon. Once sun drops behind trees its shaded in evening. Will sit out on porch with wife and drink a cold beverage in the evening. 3-Tell me how you envision using these spaces. What is your everyday life like in this new home? Do you like long views across the yard? Or do you like avenues of longer view, mixed with groupings of plantings that lend a cozier, more intimate feeling to the area around your house? If you're not clear by what I mean when I talk in these abstract ideas, just holler. I'll find examples. enjoy walks around woods and prairies, looking at plants, animals, wildlife. Yes we like the "long" views. right around house we do not want obstructions when looking out windows. I guess we kind of envision the landscaping around yard to soften the house and make it look like it fits in, not just dropped in like it does now. When I look out at that space, from both the ground at your house and from the upstairs windows, my tendency is to want to soften the edges of the prairie grass/lawn transitions with a few groupings of small trees. Like maybe an evergreen or two and a dogwood or redbud against them. I also think a transition at the sides of the driveway where it exits the woods might be nice. BUT....I need to know how YOU see your property, what YOU think is beautiful, and when you're lying in your hammock on warm spring afternoons a few years from now, what you'd like to see, where that hammock will be, and what your ideal property will look like. Make sense? I have thought about the edge between the native grass and the yard. I could use short grass seeds as a transition to the tall grass. Another thing to keep in mind is the lawn is fine fescues, only grow 6" per year, don't have to mow, plan on leaving it a long flowing grass. Not a traditional lawn. Here is limk to grass type https://www.prairiemoon.com/eco-grass-low-maintenance-lawn-alternative.html you can see that I think it does blend well into taller grasses/forbs. another thing is even the taller stuff has most of the leaves/body of the plant lower down, top is usually stalk of flower heads. Don't know if it'll be OK, thought of the strict border does concern me. I'm not a fan of "orderly" gardens or a well manicured look, like a wild native look. But around house needs to be somewhat less wild (wife's orders). Maybe some certain prairie plants at the transition from lawn to native area. I guess I could do some low bushes in areas. Clusters of them? I don't know what the prairie you see is like but I would say its not a solid looking thing, solid green at the bottom but as you increase in height above ground the plants tend to thin out, you end up with a thining of plants till they stop and the sky/background takes over. ETA: Basically I would want to maintain many views of the woods from all vantage points, but intersperse those views with some closer groups of plantings here and there. View Quote |
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