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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:08:28 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote History |
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:25:14 PM EDT
[#2]
My dad has a single stage Lyman reloading press that was probably made in the 70s. Maybe earlier. The threads on the handle finally stripped out after many tens of thousands of rounds. I used the stick welder and put a bead front and back at the intersection of the handle and linkage then filed off the bead near the edges where it was interfering with the press body.
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:27:23 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:28:27 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:29:23 PM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:30:36 PM EDT
[#6]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:31:37 PM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:32:32 PM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:35:12 PM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:37:50 PM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:38:52 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My dad has a single stage Lyman reloading press that was probably made in the 70s. Maybe earlier. The threads on the handle finally stripped out after many tens of thousands of rounds. I used the stick welder and put a bead front and back at the intersection of the handle and linkage then filed off the bead near the edges where it was interfering with the press body. 
J/K 
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:44:33 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's my inspiration. I've got a CBI front bumper and rock rails on the way. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/2nd_gen_toyota_tacoma-361144.JPG That's freaking impressive! And you're a novice welder? As in...you just started welding? What was your progression? Did you just buy a welder and start on your project? Did you do small stuff first? (You may have posted other stuff, and I apologize if you did and I don't remember it. When I say "I don't have any mind these days" it is pretty dead-on. going ten directions and "I've slept since then" means I won't likely remember.) You're doing great work. Are you planning an expedition of some sort? ETA: If you are willing, a mini-summary of what you will be doing (or what this type of rig is for) would be really awesome. If you don't want to, that's okay. I'll eventually hit google.
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:46:10 PM EDT
[#13]
Swing away tailgate will hold, full size spare, 3 - 20L jerry cans, and a hi-lift jack.
I estimate over 200 lbs, hopefully my hinge design and welds hold.  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:49:36 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Swing away tailgate will hold, full size spare, 3 - 20L jerry cans, and a hi-lift jack. I estimate over 200 lbs, hopefully my hinge design and welds hold. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20171022_134317-2245x3991-361151.JPG Those were purchased, right? Or did you form them? If so, you belong in the metalworking thread.
(But please done leave us out.  )
If it were mine, I would be worried about my welds. What you've done is impressive. |
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:52:44 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote History
I was thinking...pipe clamps, some kind of glass carrier thingy.... This is excellent. ETA: What's the red thing? |
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Posted: 11/12/2017 10:59:01 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Those hinges look pretty hefty. Those were purchased, right? Or did you form them? If so, you belong in the metalworking thread.
(But please done leave us out. )
If it were mine, I would be worried about my welds. What you've done is impressive. 1" DOM tubing (0.25" wall) 0.5" x 0.25" flat bar 2" sections of each using 12mmx130mm SS bolts and lock nuts with brass washers (not shown) You guys are first, other than a couple local buddies, to see all this. I've been working on this since August, a ridiculous amount of thought and effort has gone into it. |
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Posted: 11/12/2017 11:14:26 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Holy CRAP! That's freaking impressive! And you're a novice welder? As in...you just started welding? What was your progression? Did you just buy a welder and start on your project? Did you do small stuff first? (You may have posted other stuff, and I apologize if you did and I don't remember it. When I say "I don't have any mind these days" it is pretty dead-on. going ten directions and "I've slept since then" means I won't likely remember.) You're doing great work. Are you planning an expedition of some sort? ETA: If you are willing, a mini-summary of what you will be doing (or what this type of rig is for) would be really awesome. If you don't want to, that's okay. I'll eventually hit google. Starter using it again a couple years ago for small projects. This is by far the most welding I've done in a short period time. After doing research and some trial and error I started getting good consistent welds. I welded some nasty beads on this project at first had to go back and redo those. If I had to guess I've got over 40 hrs of weld time into this project. Nothing beats practice after you figure out those few key techniques I mentioned in my first post. Yes, an overlanding trip out in Idaho in July (5 days 600 miles off road ) if I can get this project done by then. So much left to do.  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/12/2017 11:20:07 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ETA: What's the red thing? I'll post that summary you requested soon. 
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Posted: 11/12/2017 11:24:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They are called recovery boards or traction tracks. I've not seen those before. |
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Posted: 11/13/2017 1:12:53 AM EDT
[#20]
If that is a120 volt welder, you may not be getting adequate penetration on the 1/4" steel. Did you look at the steel opposite side of your weld to check for even heat markings?
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Posted: 11/13/2017 1:47:45 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If that is a120 volt welder, you may not be getting adequate penetration on the 1/4" steel. Did you look at the steel opposite side of your weld to check for even heat markings? It puts some serious heat into the weld joint, I'm hoping enough to get good penetration on the 0.25" material. In this project I'm joining 0.125" to 0.125" or 0.125" to 0.25". On the hinge where I joined the 0.25" flat bar to the 0.25" walled tubing it has a bead all the way around the perimeter. It is however a concern, I'll find out I guess.
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Posted: 11/14/2017 9:20:32 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've had this welding setup since 2006, used it some right after I got it (nothing of merit) then did not touch it for like 6 years. Starter using it again a couple years ago for small projects. This is by far the most welding I've done in a short period time. After doing research and some trial and error I started getting good consistent welds. I welded some nasty beads on this project at first had to go back and redo those. If I had to guess I've got over 40 hrs of weld time into this project. Nothing beats practice after you figure out those few key techniques I mentioned in my first post. Yes, an overlanding trip out in Idaho in July (5 days 600 miles off road ) if I can get this project done by then. So much left to do. what type of saw is the orange one? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20170908_110726-3991x2245-361200.JPG |
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Posted: 12/14/2017 1:12:27 AM EDT
[#23]
Bumping because there's too much good info here to let it archive, and I will have questions.
Sooner, rather than later, I hope. |
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Posted: 12/16/2017 9:43:57 PM EDT
[#24]
Got a question for the very experienced welders.
Why is stainless hard to weld? I know a lot of people who weld. But most of them will not weld Stainless (nor will they weld cast iron, though I know one guy who will--and has done so for me without damaging the enamel on the coated side of the sink) Anyway....what's difficult about stainless steel? |
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Posted: 12/22/2017 10:38:31 PM EDT
[#25]
High nickle content, best practice is TIG welding it. Cast iron can be done with a stick welder and the right rods, though preheating helps a bunch.
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Posted: 12/23/2017 5:45:49 PM EDT
[#26]
All welding is about temperature control.
Temp of metal Temp of weld rod Rate of temp change (temper) Regular old mild carbon just heats, turns orange, melts, and cools. Heat builds up and moves through convection, which helps prep the surrounding area to melt too. Just fire up and run a bead. Stainless and aluminum transmit the heat differently, and are usually thinner than a carbon steel project. This makes temperature control MUCH more difficult. That's why people shy away. High carbon steel, like spring steel, can get very brittle if cooled too quickly. Heat up and cool down are controlled more than mild carbon. Really high carbon like cast iron has to be heated before you weld it, or the nickel weld rod won't penetrate very well. This adds another layer of difficulty, which is why people shy from it too. I bought a forge that had a crack in it. I took it to the blacksmith shop and cranked up one of their forges to heat mine up. I marked it with a temp crayon to find when it was up to temp (about 450, if I recall). Took several nickel rods to fill the crack, then I lined it with special mortar to help protect that weak spot. We had to cut some aluminum diamond deck, and used the oxy-acetylene torch. Aluminum doesn't give you the same heat transmission as carbon, and doesn't show the color changes as it heats. It just looks normal, then escalates quickly to a hole. This property is a big part of what makes those "special" metals hard. This post is getting long. I hope that made some sense. |
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Posted: 12/23/2017 9:43:43 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
All welding is about temperature control. Temp of metal Temp of weld rod Rate of temp change (temper) Regular old mild carbon just heats, turns orange, melts, and cools. Heat builds up and moves through convection, which helps prep the surrounding area to melt too. Just fire up and run a bead. Stainless and aluminum transmit the heat differently, and are usually thinner than a carbon steel project. This makes temperature control MUCH more difficult. That's why people shy away. High carbon steel, like spring steel, can get very brittle if cooled too quickly. Heat up and cool down are controlled more than mild carbon. Really high carbon like cast iron has to be heated before you weld it, or the nickel weld rod won't penetrate very well. This adds another layer of difficulty, which is why people shy from it too. I bought a forge that had a crack in it. I took it to the blacksmith shop and cranked up one of their forges to heat mine up. I marked it with a temp crayon to find when it was up to temp (about 450, if I recall). Took several nickel rods to fill the crack, then I lined it with special mortar to help protect that weak spot. We had to cut some aluminum diamond deck, and used the oxy-acetylene torch. Aluminum doesn't give you the same heat transmission as carbon, and doesn't show the color changes as it heats. It just looks normal, then escalates quickly to a hole. This property is a big part of what makes those "special" metals hard. This post is getting long. I hope that made some sense. I want something made of stainless steel. I cannot make it, but am trying to figure out WHO, near me, could make it. Understanding it goes a long way toward getting it made, I think. I asked in the metalworking forum, but I think I asked the wrong question. I want a range cover that tilts up when I cook, then covers the range when I'm finished and cleaned up. We have so many animals I'm having to find creative ways around some things. It's a relatively simple project, but I can't begin searching for someone to bend and weld the steel/add the handle, etc, until I understand the project. I appreciate the input. ETA: Since your post, I realize I probably need to go to the shop that gave me my practice steel (regular old mild steel) when I first got the welder nearly a year ago. They weld stuff for the automotive industry as well as for other big companies around, yet they're small enough that I bet they'd make this for me at a reasonable cost. It's not something I can just go buy off a shelf or I would do that. Nobody has these, that I can find, anyway. |
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Posted: 12/25/2017 12:18:13 PM EDT
[#28]
I know a guy that hunts through the scrap yards for light weight stainless metal, usually from old gas grills. That might be a source for you to start resourcing materials. Everyone I know that welds stainless uses TIG. If you haven't invested in all the materials needed to do that, then maybe you could consider mechanical fit-up for now. Rivets, nuts and bolts, and sheet metal screws go a long way to making projects quick and efficient.
As far as shaping, a reciprocating saw works great for cutting (usually cleaner than a torch anyway). A hammer and an anvil go a long way to bending and forming. |
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Posted: 12/26/2017 3:29:35 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I know a guy that hunts through the scrap yards for light weight stainless metal, usually from old gas grills. That might be a source for you to start resourcing materials. Everyone I know that welds stainless uses TIG. If you haven't invested in all the materials needed to do that, then maybe you could consider mechanical fit-up for now. Rivets, nuts and bolts, and sheet metal screws go a long way to making projects quick and efficient. As far as shaping, a reciprocating saw works great for cutting (usually cleaner than a torch anyway). A hammer and an anvil go a long way to bending and forming. I was thinking no fasteners for ease of cleaning, but in the meantime, this might work just fine. It's a simple enough project, I just didn't go to the fasteners first. But cutting and bending the metal, cleaning it, etc....that's all stuff I could stand to work on. |
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Posted: 12/27/2017 9:18:58 PM EDT
[#30]
Got a little work in before the holidays, haven't touched it in a month.
Will be working on it over the 4 day weekend.  Attached File Attached File Attached FileWorking on jerry can rack this coming weekend.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/27/2017 10:33:25 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got a little work in before the holidays, haven't touched it in a month. Will be working on it over the 4 day weekend. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/BlurImage_27-12-2017-8-14-15-403403.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20171203_110017-3991x2245-403405.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20171203_154416-2245x3991-403409.JPG Working on jerry can rack this coming weekend. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20171227_205809-403454.JPG |
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Posted: 12/27/2017 11:19:20 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wow. How are the hinges doing? They look rock solid.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 12/27/2017 11:30:09 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
what type of saw is the orange one? |
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Posted: 12/28/2017 9:25:10 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got a little work in before the holidays, haven't touched it in a month. Will be working on it over the 4 day weekend. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/BlurImage_27-12-2017-8-14-15-403403.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20171203_110017-3991x2245-403405.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20171203_154416-2245x3991-403409.JPG Working on jerry can rack this coming weekend. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20171227_205809-403454.JPG |
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Posted: 1/5/2018 8:47:14 AM EDT
[#35]
A piece of 1" angle iron welded across the front secures the cans.
Once the high lift jack is mounted and locked into place the cans cannot be removed, as they have to be inserted from the top.  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/5/2018 4:31:42 PM EDT
[#36]
Those ar great looking cans.
Good gas cans are on my wish list. 
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Posted: 1/8/2018 12:37:55 AM EDT
[#37]
swing away tailgate complete
 Attached FileStainless Steel slider plate for spring loaded latch  Attached Fileroof top tent hard mounts, bed rack complete  Attached FileEverything off to powdercoat this week. |
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Posted: 1/8/2018 2:15:56 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
swing away tailgate complete https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180106_180533-2974x2053-414244.JPG Stainless Steel slider plate for spring loaded latch https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180106_170110_crop_510x821-414245.JPG roof top tent hard mounts, bed rack complete https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180107_144144-2989x2245-414256.JPG Everything off to powdercoat this week. 
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Posted: 2/11/2018 8:26:38 PM EDT
[#39]
 Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileBed rack complete, going to start roof rack in a few weeks.  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/11/2018 10:55:13 PM EDT
[#40]
That's very nice.
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Posted: 2/12/2018 12:46:30 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180207_165631-449073.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/BlurImage_11-2-2018-7-16-58-449075.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/BlurImage_11-2-2018-7-21-56-449076.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180120_143512-449078.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180120_143429-449080.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180120_143651-3991x2245-449085.JPG Bed rack complete, going to start roof rack in a few weeks. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/tacoma-roof-rack-449093.JPG Did you get that done locally? |
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Posted: 2/12/2018 1:49:59 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's very nice.
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Posted: 2/12/2018 1:51:07 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wow, it looks GREAT with the powdercoat! Did you get that done locally? 
Yes, local shop. |
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Posted: 2/12/2018 2:23:29 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks
Yes, local shop. Are you aiming for a certain event goal? I didn't even know such events existed, but clearly they are a thing. |
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Posted: 2/12/2018 3:20:38 PM EDT
[#45]
I'm jumping into this thread to ask a question. I posted in another [prompted by KwS's observation that used welders can be readily obtained on CL and in pawn shops] but is probably better placed here:
How do I know the welder I buy used is a good value and not junk? My son, Aj, is a certified welder [Navy trained] and he has told me [I, who have never welded] to get a MIG welder for the shop on the land we just purchased. He lives 5+ hours away so not a convenient resource and hasn't welded in the last 15 years, since getting out. From the research I've done I believe I want 220 to not be limited. I had one excellent reply in the other thread but welcome any guidance all have to offer. Thanks |
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Posted: 2/12/2018 3:41:55 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm jumping into this thread to ask a question. I posted in another [prompted by KwS's observation that used welders can be readily obtained on CL and in pawn shops] but is probably better placed here: How do I know the welder I buy used is a good value and not junk? My son, Aj, is a certified welder [Navy trained] and he has told me [I, who have never welded] to get a MIG welder for the shop on the land we just purchased. He lives 5+ hours away so not a convenient resource and hasn't welded in the last 15 years, since getting out. From the research I've done I believe I want 220 to not be limited. I had one excellent reply in the other thread but welcome any guidance all have to offer. Thanks
Some of the folks here have done a really good job educating me, and though I chose a tiny little inexpensive welder to start, they gave great education all through this thread. I'm keeping it alive because I want to learn more, and hopefully as my other half gets done with school I'll be able to experiment, ask questions, and learn.. i will also go back and re-read all the good input again. Probably more than once. ETA: @R3drid3r I think I put a link in the first post to the original welding thread, which I accidentally let go to archives. There is even more (and different) stuff in that archived thread. Let me know if you can't get to it. |
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Posted: 2/12/2018 6:33:57 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Mike_Miller Are you aiming for a certain event goal? I didn't even know such events existed, but clearly they are a thing. My plan was 600 miles of dirt on a overlanding trip in July to MT/ID. I still have too much money to spend on gear to make it in July will have to wait til summer after next 
$2500 roof top tent $800 freezer/frig $500 dual battery charging/solar setup $500 16 gal water tank elec hot water another $500-1000 misc Once I get this rig complete it should last me years worth of summer trips. Biggest being a 3 week to Alaska and back trip. |
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Posted: 2/12/2018 6:38:31 PM EDT
[#48]
I would suggest a 12V/propane hotwater shower setup, rather than an electric.
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Posted: 2/12/2018 7:21:29 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would suggest a 12V/propane hotwater shower setup, rather than an electric. But here's my line of thinking with a very limited supply of water (16 gal) i want to ration the water while showering the elec hot water heater I'm looking at has a internal 1.4gal tank (45min to heat up using 12V) this will only give me a couple gallons of water before I run cold, telling me to stop no temptation to keep going
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Posted: 2/12/2018 7:36:49 PM EDT
[#50]
the propane/electric on demand heaters are also VERY finicky on wind and having to being almost perfectly level.
We use one for the kids for the sprinkler (wish I had that growing up), and it constantly turns itself off if everything isn't perfect. |
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