User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 2/12/2018 8:42:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: event goal? My plan was 600 miles of dirt on a overlanding trip in July to MT/ID. I still have too much money to spend on gear to make it in July will have to wait til summer after next 
$2500 roof top tent $800 freezer/frig $500 dual battery charging/solar setup $500 16 gal water tank elec hot water another $500-1000 misc Once I get this rig complete it should last me years worth of summer trips. Biggest being a 3 week to Alaska and back trip. I remember the stuff you've posted about it here, but I think I grabbed onto the idea of sort of a survival overland trek race. Obviously that's not what you're doing. That's a lot of gear and seems like a really good way to travel/camp, actually. With a fridge, hot water and a decently comfortable spot to sleep out of the bugs, I could actually enjoy that. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/12/2018 10:07:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's a lot of gear and seems like a really good way to travel/camp, actually. With a fridge, hot water and a decently comfortable spot to sleep out of the bugs, I could actually enjoy that. Found this route today, guy said it was 2400 miles of dirt. 
 Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/12/2018 11:01:24 PM EDT
[#3]
I have a 1'x1'x1.5' propane hot water heater in my RV, w/ a separate 12V on demand pump, and have no issues. Unless you're hooked up to a fresh water supply, you just take Navy showers.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/13/2018 9:55:24 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a 1'x1'x1.5' propane hot water heater in my RV, w/ a separate 12V on demand pump, and have no issues. Unless you're hooked up to a fresh water supply, you just take Navy showers. as poster mentioned above open air usage may be problematic elec is not near as powerful/efficient as propane however the elec setup will be more compact and a simpler setup this setup tank/pump/heater will only have a 50"x 12" fixed footprint in the truck bed my quoted numbers were wrong from before it's actually an 18gal storage tank and a 2.6gal hot water internal tank  Attached File Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/13/2018 10:10:29 AM EDT
[#5]
If you're wanting to stick to a single fuel, it'll work. If you're carrying propane anyway, I would suggest propane. The RV units are quite reliable @ this point - haven't had any issues out of mine in over 13 years. When you realize you only get 2-3 showers out of your water supply, you use it sparingly, no matter how much hot water is available.
Looking @ a propane instant hot water heater to assist our 110 electric heater on the inflatable hot tub. We get tired of having to wait all day in this weather for the hot tub to heat up. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/13/2018 5:31:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Mike_Miller is this overland driving thing a past time that's increasing in popularity?
How does a person find out more about that? Are there forums? Magazines? I'm not sure what it's formally called. "Overland wilderness drives" and that ilk did not yield much in google. Kitties |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2018 4:07:00 PM EDT
[#7]
My understanding is the Australians developed the idea as a way to use the outback for holiday.
They really are the experts so any advice, techniques, equipment, etc coming out of Australia should be given notice. Basically it's just called "Overlanding", in my mind, it's not off-roading, wheeling, 4 wheeling, mudding, etc like they do here in the Eastern U.S. This is how I would define it. Using 4x4 vehicles to carry gear and provisions across (at a relaxed pace) large undeveloped expanses, along the way seeing the sites, and in the evening making camp (out of necessity) were ever you find yourself. Overlanding to me is not RVing, camping, hiking expeditions, stopping 20 times a day to see the sites. The point is to cover ground seeing sites that cannot be accessed on foot, constantly on the move with minimal stops. Ideally you'd be on the move for days before you made it back to developed areas. Obviously in the outback this would be easily accomplished, here is the U.S. there really is only a few places to do that Midwest, Northwest, and Alaska. 30 years ago there were a few areas of the South you could do this, but that's over now. I have a feeling it's catching on here in the U.S. because alot of people, including myself, are done with the traditional vacation areas because everything is overcrowded and ruined in the process. I can't even enjoy riding my motorcycle in the mountains of NC anymore because the roads are so crowded. I will not waste a minute of my vacation time anymore going to overcrowded vacation destinations. It's my plan to spend all my vacation for the foreseeable future going on Overlanding trips across the U.S. Where to find information? Here's a trick I use, do Google image searches for different overlanding gear. Those images will lead you directly to sites people are discussing Overlanding. The most popular though is probably: https://expeditionportal.com A picture for inspiration 
 Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2018 5:03:08 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My understanding is the Australians developed the idea as a way to use the outback for holiday. They really are the experts so any advice, techniques, equipment, etc coming out of Australia should be given notice. Basically it's just called "Overlanding", in my mind, it's not off-roading, wheeling, 4 wheeling, mudding, etc like they do here in the Eastern U.S. This is how I would define it. Using 4x4 vehicles to carry gear and provisions across (at a relaxed pace) large undeveloped expanses, along the way seeing the sites, and in the evening making camp (out of necessity) were ever you find yourself. Overlanding to me is not RVing, camping, hiking expeditions, stopping 20 times a day to see the sites. The point is to cover ground seeing sites that cannot be accessed on foot, constantly on the move with minimal stops. Ideally you'd be on the move for days before you made it back to developed areas. Obviously in the outback this would be easily accomplished, here is the U.S. there really is only a few places to do that Midwest, Northwest, and Alaska. 30 years ago there were a few areas of the South you could do this, but that's over now. I have a feeling it's catching on here in the U.S. because alot of people, including myself, are done with the traditional vacation areas because everything is overcrowded and ruined in the process. I can't even enjoy riding my motorcycle in the mountains of NC anymore because the roads are so crowded. I will not waste a minute of my vacation time anymore going to overcrowded vacation destinations. It's my plan to spend all my vacation for the foreseeable future going on Overlanding trips across the U.S. Where to find information? Here's a trick I use, do Google image searches for different overlanding gear. Those images will lead you directly to sites people are discussing Overlanding. The most popular though is probably: https://expeditionportal.com A picture for inspiration
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/25659317394_3cc9859eec_b-452778.JPG I guess I don't understand how that works, because in MN there is almost no public land, and what is public is game reserve and no motor vehicles. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2018 6:11:33 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I assume all this is done on public land? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
here is the U.S. there really is only a few places to do that Midwest, Northwest, and Alaska. I did get the local national forest service to admit that you could drive titled tagged vehicles in the national forest here in WNC. There are hundreds and hundreds of miles worth of forest service roads around here that would be legal to drive on, problem is the assholes put gates up everywhere. So it's legal to drive on these dirt roads but they block access with the gates. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2018 7:39:24 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes, sorry thought that would be clear from above statement.
I did get the local national forest service to admit that you could drive titled tagged vehicles in the national forest here in WNC. There are hundreds and hundreds of miles worth of forest service roads around here that would be legal to drive on, problem is the assholes put gates up everywhere. So it's legal to drive on these dirt roads but they block access with the gates. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2018 8:58:04 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My understanding is the Australians developed the idea as a way to use the outback for holiday. They really are the experts so any advice, techniques, equipment, etc coming out of Australia should be given notice. Basically it's just called "Overlanding", in my mind, it's not off-roading, wheeling, 4 wheeling, mudding, etc like they do here in the Eastern U.S. This is how I would define it. Using 4x4 vehicles to carry gear and provisions across (at a relaxed pace) large undeveloped expanses, along the way seeing the sites, and in the evening making camp (out of necessity) were ever you find yourself. Overlanding to me is not RVing, camping, hiking expeditions, stopping 20 times a day to see the sites. The point is to cover ground seeing sites that cannot be accessed on foot, constantly on the move with minimal stops. Ideally you'd be on the move for days before you made it back to developed areas. Obviously in the outback this would be easily accomplished, here is the U.S. there really is only a few places to do that Midwest, Northwest, and Alaska. 30 years ago there were a few areas of the South you could do this, but that's over now. I have a feeling it's catching on here in the U.S. because alot of people, including myself, are done with the traditional vacation areas because everything is overcrowded and ruined in the process. I can't even enjoy riding my motorcycle in the mountains of NC anymore because the roads are so crowded. I will not waste a minute of my vacation time anymore going to overcrowded vacation destinations. It's my plan to spend all my vacation for the foreseeable future going on Overlanding trips across the U.S. Where to find information? Here's a trick I use, do Google image searches for different overlanding gear. Those images will lead you directly to sites people are discussing Overlanding. The most popular though is probably: https://expeditionportal.com A picture for inspiration
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/25659317394_3cc9859eec_b-452778.JPG Do you go with a group, like that photo? |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/15/2018 9:25:20 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wow. Do you go with a group, like that photo? Problem is finding people who can take the time off from work/family and can afford to go. We're talking 11 to 23 days at a time for these trips. It's a huge commitment in time and money. For that reason I'll probably be going solo on mine, a satellite locator beacon will be a must have item. The Garmin Inreach allows for 2 way texting via satellite and emergency "come get my ass" button. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/16/2018 12:12:39 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Preferably you would go in a convoy. Problem is finding people who can take the time off from work/family and can afford to go. We're talking 11 to 23 days at a time for these trips. It's a huge commitment in time and money. For that reason I'll probably be going solo on mine, a satellite locator beacon will be a must have item. The Garmin Inreach allows for 2 way texting via satellite and emergency "come get my ass" button. 
Proud of you for welding up your own rig. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/16/2018 1:03:31 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Proud of you for welding up your own rig.
I'll post more pics when I complete the next stage of the build. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/18/2018 12:16:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm jumping into this thread to ask a question. I posted in another [prompted by KwS's observation that used welders can be readily obtained on CL and in pawn shops] but is probably better placed here: How do I know the welder I buy used is a good value and not junk? My son, Aj, is a certified welder [Navy trained] and he has told me [I, who have never welded] to get a MIG welder for the shop on the land we just purchased. He lives 5+ hours away so not a convenient resource and hasn't welded in the last 15 years, since getting out. From the research I've done I believe I want 220 to not be limited. I had one excellent reply in the other thread but welcome any guidance all have to offer. Thanks I avoid chinese welders. Waaaay too many people have been disappointed with them. Mig, Tig, Stick? Depends on what you want to weld. Just farm stuff...stick is fine, easy to get the rod into difficult places and only a little OJT needed to make decent welds. Farm, vehicles, equipment...mig is great. Easier to do fine work and a monkey can learn it easily. Doing fine assembly work...Tig is the master, but tougher to use on outdoor farm projects like trailers, tractors, racks, etc.. A 220v mig with 200 amps, by one of the big three manufacturers can probably do 99% of the welding jobs you can think of, and also the other 1% if you tackle the problem from a different angle. You may think you will only use it occasionally, but once you realize how easily it can fix things and solve problems, it will become one of your most valuable pieces of equipment. It allows you to build things you cannot buy. Most of your jobs will probably be with 1/4” or thinner materials, but when you need to occasionally weld 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2”, the 220 machine will handle it smoothly, while a 120v welder will struggle. Start going to estate sales and auctions to pick up scrap steel for pennies and build up a stockpile. Craigslist is one source but the prices for used welders are usually too close to new. Pawn shops rarely have anything that hasn’t been trashed. The business liquidation auctions in my area are the best places to get American equipment for 20-35% of retail price of similar welders. A welder built with inverters instead of capacitors will often be much lighter, allowing you to get it into places impossible with a 300-400lb capacitor machine. I like to replace the factory skinny plastic wheels on my welders with big pneumatics to reduce chances of getting stuck in soft sand or wet terrain. Find a friend that can weld, and have him test out welders for you. The welder is just the first purchase. You’ll need a helmet, gloves, grinders, clamps, and a bunch more tools. Once you get the hang of it… IT IS A HELL OF A LOT OF FUN!!! |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/18/2018 12:59:06 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most any welder made in America since the 1950s and not abused will probably still work fine. I just sold a 1940s stick welder that had been left outside for decades. Replaced a few wires, cleaned up the capacitor and contacts, replaced the cables and it worked fine. Capacitor type welders are stupidly simple. I avoid chinese welders. Waaaay too many people have been disappointed with them. Mig, Tig, Stick? Depends on what you want to weld. Just farm stuff...stick is fine, easy to get the rod into difficult places and only a little OJT needed to make decent welds. Farm, vehicles, equipment...mig is great. Easier to do fine work and a monkey can learn it easily. Doing fine assembly work...Tig is the master, but tougher to use on outdoor farm projects like trailers, tractors, racks, etc.. A 220v mig with 200 amps, by one of the big three manufacturers can probably do 99% of the welding jobs you can think of, and also the other 1% if you tackle the problem from a different angle. You may think you will only use it occasionally, but once you realize how easily it can fix things and solve problems, it will become one of your most valuable pieces of equipment. It allows you to build things you cannot buy. Most of your jobs will probably be with 1/4” or thinner materials, but when you need to occasionally weld 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2”, the 220 machine will handle it smoothly, while a 120v welder will struggle. Start going to estate sales and auctions to pick up scrap steel for pennies and build up a stockpile. Craigslist is one source but the prices for used welders are usually too close to new. Pawn shops rarely have anything that hasn’t been trashed. The business liquidation auctions in my area are the best places to get American equipment for 20-35% of retail price of similar welders. A welder built with inverters instead of capacitors will often be much lighter, allowing you to get it into places impossible with a 300-400lb capacitor machine. I like to replace the factory skinny plastic wheels on my welders with big pneumatics to reduce chances of getting stuck in soft sand or wet terrain. Find a friend that can weld, and have him test out welders for you. The welder is just the first purchase. You’ll need a helmet, gloves, grinders, clamps, and a bunch more tools. Once you get the hang of it… IT IS A HELL OF A LOT OF FUN!!! I'm hoping to love it just as much, again, once I get time to spend and get past the initial learning curve on this little machine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/18/2018 2:27:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most any welder made in America since the 1950s and not abused will probably still work fine. I just sold a 1940s stick welder that had been left outside for decades. Replaced a few wires, cleaned up the capacitor and contacts, replaced the cables and it worked fine. Capacitor type welders are stupidly simple. I avoid chinese welders. Waaaay too many people have been disappointed with them. Mig, Tig, Stick? Depends on what you want to weld. Just farm stuff...stick is fine, easy to get the rod into difficult places and only a little OJT needed to make decent welds. Farm, vehicles, equipment...mig is great. Easier to do fine work and a monkey can learn it easily. Doing fine assembly work...Tig is the master, but tougher to use on outdoor farm projects like trailers, tractors, racks, etc.. A 220v mig with 200 amps, by one of the big three manufacturers can probably do 99% of the welding jobs you can think of, and also the other 1% if you tackle the problem from a different angle. You may think you will only use it occasionally, but once you realize how easily it can fix things and solve problems, it will become one of your most valuable pieces of equipment. It allows you to build things you cannot buy. Most of your jobs will probably be with 1/4” or thinner materials, but when you need to occasionally weld 3/8, 7/16 or 1/2”, the 220 machine will handle it smoothly, while a 120v welder will struggle. Start going to estate sales and auctions to pick up scrap steel for pennies and build up a stockpile. Craigslist is one source but the prices for used welders are usually too close to new. Pawn shops rarely have anything that hasn’t been trashed. The business liquidation auctions in my area are the best places to get American equipment for 20-35% of retail price of similar welders. A welder built with inverters instead of capacitors will often be much lighter, allowing you to get it into places impossible with a 300-400lb capacitor machine. I like to replace the factory skinny plastic wheels on my welders with big pneumatics to reduce chances of getting stuck in soft sand or wet terrain. Find a friend that can weld, and have him test out welders for you. The welder is just the first purchase. You’ll need a helmet, gloves, grinders, clamps, and a bunch more tools. Once you get the hang of it… IT IS A HELL OF A LOT OF FUN!!! There is scrap and then there is scrap..... Any way easy way to know what to grab and that to leave behind? |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/19/2018 7:43:46 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wow, great advice, Thanks There is scrap and then there is scrap..... Any way easy way to know what to grab and that to leave behind? If I’m planning on building a trailer or similar project, I’ll pick up larger channel, thick-wall tube, and pipe. If this stuff is selling for very little I’ll buy it anyway. I can always sell it or trade it with other fabricators on craigslist. There are a few local farm supply stores that have tons of larger steel pieces for building pole barns, and similar projects. I have bought auction lots of mixed scrap materials, but rarely use the stainless or aluminum in them. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2018 1:49:56 AM EDT
[#19]
Bumping this.
May let this go if summer doesn't bring progress.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/6/2018 2:10:13 PM EDT
[#20]
Welded up a rear camera bracket (1.5" x 0.125" flat bar) for the OEM rear camera.
Took the OEM camera cable harness and extended 73" in the middle for a plug and play install. Going to be installing all the wiring, battery terminals, distribution blocks, fuse blocks, relay bank, in cab switches for all my lights and winch this weekend. I'll post pictures later. Also doing a simple mod with dedicated switch so I can have anytime rear camera.  Attached File Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/7/2018 11:56:15 AM EDT
[#21]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/7/2018 7:03:56 PM EDT
[#22]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/8/2018 11:40:35 AM EDT
[#23]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/8/2018 3:01:00 PM EDT
[#24]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/9/2018 5:18:50 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote History
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/16/2018 9:22:16 PM EDT
[#26]
relay bank, fuse block, terminal blocks, and ground bus setup
bluesea hardware with ancor terminals/wire mounted on 0.75" MDF  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/16/2018 9:31:13 PM EDT
[#27]
back of OTRATTW switch setup in overhead sunglass storage compartment
double crimps are awesome!  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/16/2018 10:25:00 PM EDT
[#28]
My son peeled some logs a while ago. I let them sit and season. He and my other son helped me build a bunk bed with the peeled logs, some rough sawn cedar, and a couple sheets of plywood for under the mattresses. Doing it again I would plan the joints better and make them significantly stiffer. As it turned out the bed had a pretty good side to side wobble.
Over the weekend I welded some braces out of 1" x 1/8 angle. A little ironically my eight year old daughter helped me with the welding. Bzzzzapzzzzbzzz. "That was really cool dad!"My two sons helped me install them tonight, and there is very little wobble - about the same as the factory made bunk bed my girls sleep in. ETA, the next welding project is probably going to be a welder cart or dolly of some sort. It's a little Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC stick rig that I put longer leads on. It has wheels and a short stubby little handle, but it's so low to the ground it's awkward to move. I want to be able to move it around fairly easily to use it and put it out of the way when done ... and I want to add something that will let me coil the leads up, hold the various boxes of rod, hang the masks, stash the gloves, stick the magnets ... needs a couple of holes for the chipping hammers, a spot for the brushes ... what am I forgetting?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/16/2018 11:07:29 PM EDT
[#29]
I ran out of mig gas and needed to finish a few welds so I tried the fluxcore spool (basically arc stick welding) of wire that originally came with my machine.
Here were the results 
 Attached FileI'll never try that again, not with results like this with mig.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/17/2018 10:03:41 PM EDT
[#30]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/18/2018 6:02:38 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My son peeled some logs a while ago. I let them sit and season. He and my other son helped me build a bunk bed with the peeled logs, some rough sawn cedar, and a couple sheets of plywood for under the mattresses. Doing it again I would plan the joints better and make them significantly stiffer. As it turned out the bed had a pretty good side to side wobble. Over the weekend I welded some braces out of 1" x 1/8 angle. A little ironically my eight year old daughter helped me with the welding. Bzzzzapzzzzbzzz. "That was really cool dad!"My two sons helped me install them tonight, and there is very little wobble - about the same as the factory made bunk bed my girls sleep in. ETA, the next welding project is probably going to be a welder cart or dolly of some sort. It's a little Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC stick rig that I put longer leads on. It has wheels and a short stubby little handle, but it's so low to the ground it's awkward to move. I want to be able to move it around fairly easily to use it and put it out of the way when done ... and I want to add something that will let me coil the leads up, hold the various boxes of rod, hang the masks, stash the gloves, stick the magnets ... needs a couple of holes for the chipping hammers, a spot for the brushes ... what am I forgetting? I'm guessing. Never had a welding cart. Not yet anyway. The welders at school were enormous, and the little one I have now is on the end table by the sofa.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2018 7:54:35 PM EDT
[#32]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2018 9:16:55 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
More switches today. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180420_180246-520984.JPG Or did you cut into your truck and create the spot? |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2018 9:22:43 PM EDT
[#34]
Finished up electrical.
All lights and winch work without key in ignition (green picture only lights up) amber label does lights up with key on. Rear Camera switch only works and lights up with key on.  Attached File Attached File1 pair of KC halogen driving lights up front, 3 pair of KC C3 LED pods (rear, left & right sides)  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/21/2018 9:36:13 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Did you already have the spaces for those buttons/controls? Or did you cut into your truck and create the spot? I moved the top two factory switches down to the bottom positions, removed the RSCA OFF switch left it wired up but tied behind the dash (I can access it if necessary). The top 3 factory switch locations took me about 2 hrs to adapt to the OTRATTW switches (hand filed to open up size) a huge pain but they fit perfectly afterwards.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/19/2018 12:23:38 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Finished up electrical. All lights and winch work without key in ignition (green picture only lights up) amber label does lights up with key on. Rear Camera switch only works and lights up with key on. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180421_210731-522133.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180421_210826-522134.JPG 1 pair of KC halogen driving lights up front, 3 pair of KC C3 LED pods (rear, left & right sides) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384769/20180421_210124-522139.JPG Looks awesome. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2018 10:03:37 PM EDT
[#37]
I cannot even tell you how many useless pieces of scrap metal I brought home while I was cleaning out the barn at my mom and dad's home. (place where I was born and grew up).
It was kind of stupid. I'd pull a piece of unknown metal off a nail on the wall, or out of a bucket and think about leaving it, and I couldn't do it. I had memories associated with it. So...I brought it with me. The choices I have are... 1-store it forever (not gonna happen) 2-sell it for scrap (maybe) or... 3-weld up a sculpture that represents my childhood. (hey, there is a metal disc from a disc harrow in that pile )
Guessing my little welder won't weld that heavy stuff. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/22/2018 10:21:15 PM EDT
[#38]
It's art. All it needs to do is stick together, and stick together well if you build it tall enough.
Your welder will do that just fine, and if it doesn't you won't know unless you try, then you can just add a little more weld, or another little piece of wire or rebar to prop whatever doodad in place.
Do it, and post pics! I had my welder fired up yesterday. I put a new hubs and pulleys on the lawnmower last year, the originals were worn out at ten years old. The new hub and pulley were splined and supposedly interchangeable with the originals, but there was nothing left on one of the pulley splines after a handful of uses last year and a couple more this year. I centered the pulley on the hub, retightened the nut, and welded the pulley to the nut with a 1/16 7018 rod at 60 amps. Back to cutting as well as a 10 year old beat up lawn tractor can cut. Shadetreetip: clean your mower deck before welding, and weld outside. I have a vivid memory from my childhood of Dad working out in the garage with somebody who had a mobile rig welding something on his old Bolens garden tractor. I was inside, my dad ran in, grabbed the fire extinguisher, ran back out with a worried look in his face. Grease and dry grass went up with a spark, inside the garage. Then the plastic pin ring in the fire extinguisher broke when he pulled it, leaving the pin in place with no way to get it out. They did get the fire out before it did any damage, and dad replaced the pin stub with a pin and ring from a smoke grenade.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/19/2018 9:57:02 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's art. All it needs to do is stick together, and stick together well if you build it tall enough. Your welder will do that just fine, and if it doesn't you won't know unless you try, then you can just add a little more weld, or another little piece of wire or rebar to prop whatever doodad in place.
Do it, and post pics! I had my welder fired up yesterday. I put a new hubs and pulleys on the lawnmower last year, the originals were worn out at ten years old. The new hub and pulley were splined and supposedly interchangeable with the originals, but there was nothing left on one of the pulley splines after a handful of uses last year and a couple more this year. I centered the pulley on the hub, retightened the nut, and welded the pulley to the nut with a 1/16 7018 rod at 60 amps. Back to cutting as well as a 10 year old beat up lawn tractor can cut. Shadetreetip: clean your mower deck before welding, and weld outside. I have a vivid memory from my childhood of Dad working out in the garage with somebody who had a mobile rig welding something on his old Bolens garden tractor. I was inside, my dad ran in, grabbed the fire extinguisher, ran back out with a worried look in his face. Grease and dry grass went up with a spark, inside the garage. Then the plastic pin ring in the fire extinguisher broke when he pulled it, leaving the pin in place with no way to get it out. They did get the fire out before it did any damage, and dad replaced the pin stub with a pin and ring from a smoke grenade.
And I will heed your advice, should I weld on something that might be greasy. Right now I'm coming back from AWOL after dealing with family stuff, lots of drama, and OMG, lots of metal stuff that is useless unless I make art out of it (I hope this does not include the plow and cultivators from my dad's tractor, but it may.
Thank you for bumping the thread, and for saying I should make art out of my agricultural artifacts.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/12/2018 12:17:50 AM EDT
[#40]
Surprised this has not dropped off into archives, but glad, because I have more reasons to learn to weld now, than ever.
More later.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/8/2018 10:13:26 PM EDT
[#41]
bump
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2018 10:15:39 PM EDT
[#42]
FYI: As far as purchases for big tools for this question? I may or may not fo. But....any education is welcome, and as always, thanks in advance to any of you willing to share.
I have some metalworking questions that are not specifically welding, but are definitely related, and I'm going to put them here, because people who know about one seem to often know about the other.
Flash WAY back: I got interested in how to bend sheet metal when the guys made the duct registers and returns for the olde house I live in now. This was almost 20 years ago. Flash Forward to a few weeks ago: I was sitting at the counter at the plumbing supply place. Me: *Sees a hand brake on the back wall. Wonders how this is used for plumbing. Points*.... "Can I see that brake." Plumbing Guy (PG): *Hands me the brake* "This pipe goin' on you or on Butch's ticket?" (Butch is the plumber elf helping me with my projects) Me: "Butch's ticket." *fondles brake, admires ratchet mechanism* "Without looking it up, about how much does this cost?" PG: "Ehhh...Probably 50-60 dollars." Me: (silently) Ouch for a very small, limited-use tool. However, this is in line with what I've seen before. Still, because I love my cheap little rotary hammer so much, I pull out my phone and google metal brakes at Harbor Freight. Whaddaya Know....$15. SOLD! *hands back fancy brake and waits for pipe order* Flash Forward to now: I just made my own sill pan for a big door unit,(nearly ten feet wide), and I made it out of aluminum because I had no other option that was both timely and available to me within budget. I combined this with Vycor self-adhering flashing and Quad sealant to make a sloped sill pan for the hole I cut out of the stone house I'm rehabbing. (If my sill fails, hopefully the Vycor will not) I was reasonably happy with this considering all the pieces involved (cost of door, expected longevity in a rental situation, etc). It did not tear as we dragged the big door unit back and forth to dry fit and to place the final beads of sealant. Still....there are issues. I would have done better with better tools. Whether or not I should have those tools I am uncertain. I have looked at metal brakes since the long-ago duct installation, and drooled a little, but nothing I could afford would bend anything of any decent length, and honestly I didn't know what I was looking at, so I've never owned one. Anyway, the cheap little $15 brake did a great job at ONE thing. But I could do that only an inch or so into the metal. It has less "reach" than a pair of vise grips. For my sill pan, getting decent bends BEYOND an inch and a half, even with that soft aluminum, was a pain in the butt. I did part of it by laying the metal on top of a concrete block, bending it over, and just using a hammer to make the seam crisp. It was not as neat as I would have liked. I really hate to be stupid about anything, but about this, I'm pretty freaking stupid  .
Metal workers.. Can any of you please give me a VERY simplified crash course in what the different tools do for manipulating metal, what's good for what, and what isn't, and what a basic tool set should include? How do you take a piece of thin sheet metal, and make it into something? Can you do that same thing with ANY thin sheet metal? Even stainless steel? (That's what I would have PREFERRED for my sill pan) I'm guessing I can do more with some tools than others, and some of you can make amazing things without all the fancy gizmos, cuz you know how. If you even point me to specific references to read and learn, that's okay too. But y'all always have good things to offer, so thank you in advance. ~Kitties |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/19/2018 12:56:52 AM EDT
[#43]
Yeah, pretty much need a full size break to properly bend sheet metal
Good news is you could make one with your welder
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/19/2018 11:05:17 AM EDT
[#44]
I'm a hack at metal working, it's on my bucket list to get better at it.
There is a pretty cool set of books that have plans on how to make metal working equipment from scrap. There is one on making a sheet metal brake and another on working sheet metal. http://gingerybookstore.com/ |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/19/2018 8:00:26 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah, pretty much need a full size break to properly bend sheet metal Good news is you could make one with your welder
It's not the welder's fault. I haven't tried enough.
Did you make your metal brake with YOUR welder? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/19/2018 8:01:00 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm a hack at metal working, it's on my bucket list to get better at it. There is a pretty cool set of books that have plans on how to make metal working equipment from scrap. There is one on making a sheet metal brake and another on working sheet metal. http://gingerybookstore.com/
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/20/2018 12:28:31 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah, if I could get my welder to strike an arc.
It's not the welder's fault. I haven't tried enough.
Did you make your metal brake with YOUR welder? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/23/2018 11:40:20 PM EDT
[#48]
We have a hydraulic press brake at work. Hydraulic shear and a cnc plasma cutter too. A finger brake for making boxes.
A full size siding brake as already mentioned is the tool you need to form soft aluminum for pans, window wrapping, custom flashing, etc. The building supply store has one customers can use with purchase of their aluminum flashing. Line up, score with utility knife to desired width, bend and the metal will cut itself at the score line, align and bend as needed. Corners are an art, but can be mocked up with paper and scissors easily. Brakes have a limited thickness capacity based in part on how much force it takes to bend something and the geometry of the bend. Materials are specific, some cold work and harden then crack halfway through the bend, some are easy to work and can be bent and then bent back without cracking. Good aviation snips go a long way. If it isnt going to be seen, a bunch of clamps holding the sheet metal to a stout enough piece of angle will let you bang a crease into it with a hammer. The welder just makes it easier to put a bar to use instead of the clamps and another piece of angle to make the bend. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/26/2018 11:43:44 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Materials are specific, some cold work and harden then crack halfway through the bend, some are easy to work and can be bent and then bent back without cracking. I've got a LONG way to go, but I guess people learn stuff when they figure out they need to know it. I'll never know all that, but the basics of metalworking...yeah, I wanna know that. Long way to go for me, even for the basics. But gotta start somewhere. Right now it's how to manage the metal parts of a normal wood-framed house. Later though....I'd like to know more. My grandpa taught me the love of changing the shape of metal with an old hand-cranked forge and some horseshoes (horseshoes he MADE when horseshoes were in demand --he was born in 1905) and decrepit pieces of farm equipment he let me ruin when I was about ten. That's as far as my metalworking went, other than welding in high school. The practical aspects for today? I'm starting over. And I've got a limited amount of time to spend learning. This summer I went through all the barns on my family farm, cleaning them out for sale, and I dumped so much stuff. But the old bits of metal. I hauled every one home, and piled them in boxes and crates in the garage. It's dumb I know, but for some reason I can't let them go. I don't know one kind of steel from another, but I can learn anything if I can eek out the time to study, and I want to.
Thank you for taking the time to help.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/30/2019 1:41:35 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IT'S HERE IT'S HERE!!!  Both this and the archived thread are great! I have been following along and learning a bunch. I did a little welding in shop class back in high school, but I never took it beyond that and I kick myself a lot over that. Over the years, I have had a couple of projects that needed to be welded and I was lucky enough to have friends who could do the job for me. Like you, I would like to learn how to do it myself. Unfortunately, our local community college does not offer a welding class or I would be taking that in a heartbeat! So I am left to fend for myself. I work at a custom log furniture shop and, at one time, we had a welder on staff. He would make all the metal legs and brackets for the furniture we made. He was very talented and could make pretty much anything out of metal. We lost him to another job in Texas oil fields, but couldn't blame him for leaving as they paid very handsomely for his talents. So lately I have been looking at welders for doing basic stuff around the hacienda and out at the ranch (Fixing trailers, mending metal gates, etc....). I have narrowed it down to with a Lincoln or an Everlast welder, both are 140amp. I would be doing wire feed flux core welding as it looks like the easiest to master, it doesn't require a shielding gas and I can run it off of a generator out at the ranch if I had too. I am fortunate to work where I do as there is a lot of scrap metal around that I could use to practice on. So what welder did you finally end up with and where did you get it from? Have you been able to practice on scrap metal yet? |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File
Attached File