Zombie Welding with Kitties--Now Moar Metal Working Questions pg 6 - Page 4

Site Notices

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Zombie Welding with Kitties--Now Moar Metal Working Questions pg 6 (Page 4 of 6)

Posted: 5/9/2017 10:56:21 PM EDT

[#1]

ANY time you are having trouble getting a weld pool going, grind/brush down to bare metal. I'm just lazy about not doing that

Remember that when you are welding, you have to first melt the steel you are trying to weld. Also remember that steel is a good conductor of heat, so the energy from the tip of the welding wire is being radiated away from the point where you are trying to weld. That is why its easy to burn through at a corner compared to further into the middle of the piece; less places for the heat to go.

So if you are trying to lay a good penetrating bead of weld into the middle of a plate that is already at the thickness limit for the welder at hand, you will have issues. The welder will have its limits, but best method with this type is to slow down the feed a bit and keep the tip just a smidgen further away from the work piece to get more steel melting action. Not technically the correct way to do this (you would normally turn up the power or get a bigger welder), but it will let you push the limits of this welder.

Posted: 5/9/2017 11:11:26 PM EDT

[#2]

Quote History

Quoted:
ANY time you are having trouble getting a weld pool going, grind/brush down to bare metal. I'm just lazy about not doing that

Remember that when you are welding, you have to first melt the steel you are trying to weld. Also remember that steel is a good conductor of heat, so the energy from the tip of the welding wire is being radiated away from the point where you are trying to weld. That is why its easy to burn through at a corner compared to further into the middle of the piece; less places for the heat to go.

So if you are trying to lay a good penetrating bead of weld into the middle of a plate that is already at the thickness limit for the welder at hand, you will have issues. The welder will have its limits, but best method with this type is to slow down the feed a bit and keep the tip just a smidgen further away from the work piece to get more steel melting action. Not technically the correct way to do this (you would normally turn up the power or get a bigger welder), but it will let you push the limits of this welder.

View Quote

Good education and really excellent explanation.

I cannot absorb it now...not fully, because I'm still at such a basic level....but I think I get it.

I will have to return to this.

You might have to say it again.

In truth, although I had a class in welding, it was very hands-on, practical, and "farm equipment" based. I'm not sure I was ever taught, completely, what is happening during welding. Hell, maybe the teacher didn't know. He was a farmer and a vo-ag instructor.

You buy the right machine, you do this, then you do that, and you are welding. And we were.

But.... It's kind of like saying "throw triple 10 on the ground and you'll get good results from most plants."

Yeah, but it doesn't really teach you anything about what's actually happening, chemically or physically, so if something is off, you can't solve problems at all.

I think that's where I am.

Posted: 5/9/2017 11:18:03 PM EDT

[#3]

Quote History

Quoted:

Remember that when you are welding, you have to first melt the steel you are trying to weld. Also remember that steel is a good conductor of heat, so the energy from the tip of the welding wire is being radiated away from the point where you are trying to weld. That is why its easy to burn through at a corner compared to further into the middle of the piece; less places for the heat to go.

So if you are trying to lay a good penetrating bead of weld into the middle of a plate that is already at the thickness limit for the welder at hand, you will have issues. The welder will have its limits, but best method with this type is to slow down the feed a bit and keep the tip just a smidgen further away from the work piece to get more steel melting action. .

View Quote

So you're sort of "slowing down" the process this way....allowing gentler heat to spread out a little, to take a little more time to melt the steel right in front of you to create the pool, without burning through?

If this is wrong, say so. I'm trying to grasp what's actually happening.

I have no found any videos that explain in a way that allows me to troubleshoot, but honestly, I'm not at that point. I haven't had enough time even trying this little welder.

Posted: 5/10/2017 10:17:13 AM EDT

[#4]

Quote History

Quoted:

So you're sort of "slowing down" the process this way....allowing gentler heat to spread out a little, to take a little more time to melt the steel right in front of you to create the pool, without burning through?

If this is wrong, say so. I'm trying to grasp what's actually happening.

I have no found any videos that explain in a way that allows me to troubleshoot, but honestly, I'm not at that point. I haven't had enough time even trying this little welder.

View Quote

Not so much slowing down per se, but trying to get a give the arc more time to melt metal before you lay welding wire in there (which cools the process because the wire absorbs heat). You still need to move the tip at appropriate speeds, but the weld pool will form more slowly. You have to be very careful with this, and its only small adjustments from "ideal" on the dial, as if you slow the wire feed down too far, the wire will melt too fast (as in it will be melting up into the tip and not on the work).

I think somebody was telling a story in this thread how they welded extra thick metal by pre-heating the metal with a regular torch before welding. That is kinda/sorta what you are doing here, but just by giving the electricity an extra split second to make the metal hotter.

But like I said, the above is when you are pushing this welder past its design limitations. If you plate is 3/16" or less, you can weld on that like normal.

Posted: 5/12/2017 5:52:29 PM EDT

[#5]

Whoever said stick is easier has obviously never done TIG.

You can weld in short sleeves and shorts...

You can weld AND tan at the same time.

Posted: 5/14/2017 6:21:20 PM EDT

[#6]

I fixed a bad weld on the set of pallet forks for my tractor, and figured I would take some pictures along the way. These pallet forks were cheap, and you get what you pay for.

The issue with this weld is called porosity. It is all of the little holes you can see on the RH side of the weld. This can be caused by several things, lack of shielding gas, breeze blowing the shielding gas away, too much wire sticking out, contamination on the base material and many more. This is bad because each one of those little holes can act as a starting point for a crack.

The left half of the weld looks OK, right? The problem with porosity is that it can exist below the surface of the weld while the top looks decent. After you spend a lot of time welding you'll be able to pick up on some of the other indicators that the weld might look ok but not be sound. I started grinding out the bad weld and pretty quickly saw that the porosity went through the entire weld.

It wasn't as bad on the left side but all of those little black spots are "bubbles" or holes in the weld. The only way to fix this is to grind it as far back down to the base material as you can get.

After I had it all ground out and the paint around the area sanded back away from the weld, the fun part starts. The welder I used is a Lincoln PowerMig 210 MP. It has a nice screen on the front that will walk you through the setup process. For a lot of people the hardest part of welding is getting the machine set up in the right range, so this is a big help for beginners. I have found that the settings are fairly close. I usually end up a little higher/hotter than what it starts out at, which allows me to weld a bit faster.

Step 1: The machine detects whether you're plugged into 110v or 220v power, and you can scroll side to side to select your process. In my case Mig with C25 (25% CO2, 75% Argon) shielding gas.

Then it shows you how the cables should be connected to the machine for your selected process. This machine will also run stick, DC Tig and an aluminum spool gun, so the cable connections can vary depending on which of those you are doing.

Next up you select your wire diameter.

And finally the thickness of material you are welding.

Then you wind up with your baseline settings, the range in green.

Here is where I ended up for this short weld.

Looks a little better than before at least.

Posted: 5/15/2017 12:15:10 AM EDT

[#7]

Nice welder. Like $1200 now?

Posted: 5/16/2017 10:00:24 PM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
Nice welder. Like $1200 now?

View Quote

I haven't looked lately. At the time Lincoln had a deal going on with the PowerMig 210 MP and Square Wave Tig 200 combo with the accessory packages for both for $1999.

Posted: 5/17/2017 3:04:45 AM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
I fixed a bad weld on the set of pallet forks for my tractor, and figured I would take some pictures along the way. These pallet forks were cheap, and you get what you pay for.

The issue with this weld is called porosity. It is all of the little holes you can see on the RH side of the weld. This can be caused by several things, lack of shielding gas, breeze blowing the shielding gas away, too much wire sticking out, contamination on the base material and many more. This is bad because each one of those little holes can act as a starting point for a crack.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_163443_zpsxfacmekp.jpg

The left half of the weld looks OK, right? The problem with porosity is that it can exist below the surface of the weld while the top looks decent. After you spend a lot of time welding you'll be able to pick up on some of the other indicators that the weld might look ok but not be sound. I started grinding out the bad weld and pretty quickly saw that the porosity went through the entire weld.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_163502_zps2wvgmtr9.jpg

It wasn't as bad on the left side but all of those little black spots are "bubbles" or holes in the weld. The only way to fix this is to grind it as far back down to the base material as you can get.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_113200_zpsjzyygxnk.jpg

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_113921_zpsd1etrwyy.jpg

After I had it all ground out and the paint around the area sanded back away from the weld, the fun part starts. The welder I used is a Lincoln PowerMig 210 MP. It has a nice screen on the front that will walk you through the setup process. For a lot of people the hardest part of welding is getting the machine set up in the right range, so this is a big help for beginners. I have found that the settings are fairly close. I usually end up a little higher/hotter than what it starts out at, which allows me to weld a bit faster.

Step 1: The machine detects whether you're plugged into 110v or 220v power, and you can scroll side to side to select your process. In my case Mig with C25 (25% CO2, 75% Argon) shielding gas.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_114239_zpsp08wtylx.jpg

Then it shows you how the cables should be connected to the machine for your selected process. This machine will also run stick, DC Tig and an aluminum spool gun, so the cable connections can vary depending on which of those you are doing.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_114250_zpslavq8dw6.jpg

Next up you select your wire diameter.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_114256_zpslbptnonl.jpg

And finally the thickness of material you are welding.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_114307_zpsuox2if1x.jpg

Then you wind up with your baseline settings, the range in green.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_114328_zps9yrbxxyg.jpg

Here is where I ended up for this short weld.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_115146_zpsjscsz35s.jpg

Looks a little better than before at least.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/Mobile%20Uploads/20170514_115307_zpsqjoces89.jpg

View Quote

What an awesome post!

Thank you!

This is really helpful, seeing what y'all do.

Posted: 5/17/2017 5:49:21 AM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
Got it!

It's freaking AWESOME!

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Hey Kitty, your jacket is waiting at the post for you.

Got it!

It's freaking AWESOME!

That was cool.

Posted: 5/26/2017 12:05:19 AM EDT

[#11]

Bump.

if it will ever quit rainin' for even a couple of days, i might get the mowing all done and be able to try welding again.

Posted: 6/8/2017 12:42:48 PM EDT

[#12]

I must be honest and report that I have let all of you down.

I took the mower to the shop to get a new drive belt and pulleys installed because I was behind and didn't have time for the learning curve. Guy said, "Want me to weld that for you?" (He meant the deck.) He said it would only be about $30 and I caved.

I was afraid it was going to go on and break further before I could get my welder going.

Now I have to find other things to weld, but there's less pressure.

Posted: 6/8/2017 1:09:10 PM EDT

[#13]

Other thing to weld.

Posted: 6/8/2017 6:48:07 PM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:
Other thing to weld.

View Quote

Hah! Maybe someday.

Posted: 6/16/2017 4:28:08 PM EDT

[#15]

Welded up another Hog trap panel. I decided to take a ice tea break.

Posted: 6/16/2017 4:34:06 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p590/Sparkydv/Pig%20traps/20170616_142108_zps5bc7fndq.jpg
Welded up another Hog trap panel. I decided to take a ice tea break.

View Quote

You put that together from scratch???

Posted: 6/16/2017 9:52:48 PM EDT

[#17]

Quote History

Quoted:
You put that together from scratch???

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p590/Sparkydv/Pig%20traps/20170616_142108_zps5bc7fndq.jpg
Welded up another Hog trap panel. I decided to take a ice tea break.

You put that together from scratch???

Bought the 4' X 20' goat panel. Cut it into thirds so it's light enough to carry. and short enough to make a decent circle.

Eight more to go.

Posted: 6/28/2017 10:01:54 PM EDT

[#18]

bump.

Life is really getting in the way of my interests.

Posted: 7/29/2017 2:56:42 PM EDT

[#19]

*heavy sigh*

sorry everyone. I owe you some beads on some metal.

I promise to get there, though it may be after the weather cools a little and I'm not trying to get a building up.

Posted: 8/4/2017 12:09:36 PM EDT

[#20]

Looking forward to so "Kitties" beads when you get there.

Posted: 8/4/2017 1:52:20 PM EDT

[#21]

Hoping there may be some people in this thread that can help. I'm looking to find replacement DC power supplies for work and we are not having any luck finding something that will hold up to what we are doing.

They will be used for carbon arc gouging. Will be running a 3/4" rod and will be run hard. Need to be 1500 amps at 60 VDC 100% duty cycle minimum and two machines will be ran in parallel. 480V 3 phase power and be able to tolerate greater than 10% voltage swings and just dirty power in general.

Im not asking for much

We run some very old Miller power supplies now that we have heavily modified. They work very well but repairs are starting to get pricey due to part availability. Looking at the AFTEK and Idealarc units now but seriously doubt they will hold up. Anyone have any other suggestions?

Video for anyone not familiar with the process.

Failed To Load Title

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSzcCEcSoYo

Posted: 8/4/2017 9:32:26 PM EDT

[#22]

Well that's over my head.

Posted: 8/4/2017 10:49:46 PM EDT

[#23]

Quote History

Quoted:
Hoping there may be some people in this thread that can help. I'm looking to find replacement DC power supplies for work and we are not having any luck finding something that will hold up to what we are doing.

They will be used for carbon arc gouging. Will be running a 3/4" rod and will be run hard. Need to be 1500 amps at 60 VDC 100% duty cycle minimum and two machines will be ran in parallel. 480V 3 phase power and be able to tolerate greater than 10% voltage swings and just dirty power in general.

Im not asking for much

We run some very old Miller power supplies now that we have heavily modified. They work very well but repairs are starting to get pricey due to part availability. Looking at the AFTEK and Idealarc units now but seriously doubt they will hold up. Anyone have any other suggestions?

Video for anyone not familiar with the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSzcCEcSoYo

View Quote

Cutting up a ship?

Would a pair of Miller Goldstar 852s do? (I have a feeling probably not) That is a lot of rod. Is exothermic or an oxygen lance an option?

Posted: 8/5/2017 7:51:40 AM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:

Cutting up a ship?

Would a pair of Miller Goldstar 852s do? (I have a feeling probably not) That is a lot of rod. Is exothermic or an oxygen lance an option?

View Quote

Foundry. Used for taking down riser pads to profile. Really no other process out there that works as well.

We have 50 or so 652s we use for welding. They won't run small rods well let alone our big rods.

When we were really busy back in 2011/12 near as we could tell we were the worlds largest single user of 3/4" carbon rods

Posted: 8/30/2017 12:09:42 AM EDT

[#25]

bump.

Out for a family issue but will be back.

Posted: 9/10/2017 3:54:09 PM EDT

[#26]

Bump

Posted: 9/14/2017 11:36:41 PM EDT

[#27]

Thought of this thread yesterday.

My lawn tractor is ten years old. It has been flawless until now, but just about everything is breaking on it this year. It spent more time waiting on parts than running. Which is ok with me, because I live in the country and hate cutting grass.

Anyway, the link that pulls and stabilizes the front of the deck broke at a designed shear point after the deck caught on a stump. A few inches of 1/16 inch 7018 rod and a few seconds at 60 amps, and it is stuck back together.

The belt keeper also broke (guessing vibration related stress concentration at the edge of a thin section). I also welded it but didn't have both parts clamped securely. The break was at the edge of a thin section, which then sagged under the weight of the rest of the part when it got hot. I looked up the price and just bought a new one for $8 shipped rather than grind, beat flat, and reweld.

Posted: 9/15/2017 10:08:51 AM EDT

[#28]

I got my welder out of storage and cleaned up threw away about 9lbs of wire from a 10lb roll due to being rusty I had a helper the entire time removing everything I put onto the cart if all goes well plan on doing some welding this weekend

Attached File

Posted: 9/19/2017 10:38:11 PM EDT

[#29]

Quote History

Quoted:
I got my welder out of storage and cleaned up threw away about 9lbs of wire from a 10lb roll due to being rusty I had a helper the entire time removing everything I put onto the cart if all goes well plan on doing some welding this weekend
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/287405/IMG_2590-308065.JPG

View Quote

Posted: 9/20/2017 3:13:47 PM EDT

[#30]

Quote History

Quoted:
I have loot!!!

Took a couple of hours this afternoon and went to Harbor Freight and TSC.

Things I got:

At Harbor Freight I got:

Extra angle grinder It was on sale plus I had a coupon. ( This one has a paddle switch. The other does not. We'll see how long that little switch safety lasts. I predict ten minutes.)
grinding discs (already had the wire brush for the grinder)
Welding helmet (I had a coupon.

)
cheap vise grips so I won't worry about screwing up and ruining them by welding the mechanism together accidentally or something stupid like that.

gloves
hammer
magnets-2
cheap wire brushes

At TSC I got:
Nozzle gel
Cute welding hat to go under the helmet--

Hobart makes these in GIRL colors. Who knew?

I noticed the price of wire is about the same at TSC and Harbor Freight. Maybe even a little cheaper at TSC, and it's Hobart brand instead of....something else. I don't remember what HF's brand of wire was.

Of course, every time I see "Hobart" I think about the enormous dough mixer we had at Pizza Hut when I worked there in school.

At least it's an old, well-known company. I have no idea whether that matters at all.

I think I'm gonna take my HF hammer back and get the Hobart one from TSC. For $2 more, the handle seems bigger and more comfortable which will add up over time.

http://www.fototime.com/33F7823FADD29AC/large.jpg

What I discovered...

I'm actually not afraid of the welder.

I'm afraid of the freaking GRINDERS.

Nobody in my background ever owned an angle grinder, and I have never been schooled in how to not die (or injure myself so I wish I were dead) using one.

Fortunately a former Navy nuc welder saw me looking confused in front of the grinder attachments and came to my aid. He, of course, does not use the guard.

Yeah.....NO.

Ima use that freaking guard. I don't use a guard on a table saw. I hold the guard out of the way on a chop saw (the kind for wood). I grew up using that stuff. I understand how to pay attention and be safe.

With the grinder? I will take the flesh off my fingers, all the way to the bone without that guard, cuz my mind will be on other things and I'll forget to pay attention to how close my hand is to the spinning disc. The guard is gonna get in my way. I know this. But I'm using it. At least for now.

ETA: I looked at metal.

Wow, that's expensive. $5 for a piece of 1/2" angle iron 3' long.

Ummm...that'll add up fast. I'll have to find a better source than TSC for that.

I could do that for the mower deck (though I don't know what size I need--1/2" might be too small. They were out of 3/4") But for a big project, holy smokes....*sticker shock*

View Quote

I went back and was re reading some of this but kitties that brush you got for your angle grinder be real careful useing it the cheaper ones seem to throw the wire out faster I was using one and when I was done my shirt and sleeves looked like a porcupine!

I am looking back because I don't think my little Hobart 140 is up to the task of some of the stuff I'd like to do I think it's time to look at upgrading machines l. Which makes me real mad because I had a real nice Lincoln industrial unit I sold because I didn't have 220 in my old garage now I kick myself hardcore !

Posted: 9/20/2017 8:20:57 PM EDT

[#31]

Quote History

Quoted:

I went back and was re reading some of this but kitties that brush you got for your angle grinder be real careful useing it the cheaper ones seem to throw the wire out faster I was using one and when I was done my shirt and sleeves looked like a porcupine!

I am looking back because I don't think my little Hobart 140 is up to the task of some of the stuff I'd like to do I think it's time to look at upgrading machines l. Which makes me real mad because I had a real nice Lincoln industrial unit I sold because I didn't have 220 in my old garage now I kick myself hardcore !

View Quote

Yes I will pay a lot of attention when I start using brushes. I may actually just toss that brush, as I've heard similar stuff from other people about the porcupine thing. I'm not feeling the love for having wires stuck in me on any kind of regular basis.

It was interesting that I went to a local pawn shop this past weekend, looking for a (slim chance, but you never know) pro tile saw.

No joy, but they had about eight welders. Lincoln, Hobart, Miller, etc. I looked at every one and thought, "the guys on the forum would be telling me to go for one of these to add to my stash."

All that to say, pawn shops seem to be a good bet for cheaper, better welders.

Posted: 10/2/2017 10:36:41 PM EDT

[#32]

Bump...for when I am not gluing up pvc pipe.

Posted: 10/14/2017 2:27:53 PM EDT

[#33]

Bump again.

Though if I don't get over my hatred of pex, I may be learning to sweat copper. That's "sort of" welding, right?

Posted: 10/22/2017 9:59:43 PM EDT

[#34]

Thank you OP & to all who posted.

It gave me enough confidence to weld a small project for my sons school, a first for me.

I have always said I can do anything but drywall finishing, sharpening a chainsaw chain on the saw, & welding.

I can now check welding off the list. Not a pro by any means, but I could tell a difference by the end of the project and will practice more.

Nothing fancy. Just a frame holding 1/4" LEXAN for the kids to paint with Tempera paint then wash it off and start again.

The little ones absolutely loved it with two of them painting for an hour and a half straight.

Attached File

Posted: 10/22/2017 10:14:44 PM EDT

[#35]

Quote History

Quoted:
Thank you OP & to all who posted.

It gave me enough confidence to weld a small project for my sons school, a first for me.

I have always said I can do anything but drywall finishing, sharpening a chainsaw chain on the saw, & welding.

I can now check welding off the list. Not a pro by any means, but I could tell a difference by the end of the project and will practice more.

Nothing fancy. Just a frame holding 1/4" LEXAN for the kids to paint with Tempera paint then wash it off and start again.

The little ones absolutely loved it with two of them painting for an hour and a half straight.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/128773/IMG_7003_2-341347.JPG

View Quote

SO. AWESOME!!!

Congratulations on being a welder!!!

Details on how you did it and what you used?

Finishing drywall ain't that hard.

I can do it.

You can too.

Posted: 10/23/2017 1:32:51 PM EDT

[#36]

Quote History

Quoted:
SO. AWESOME!!!

Congratulations on being a welder!!!

Details on how you did it and what you used?

Finishing drywall ain't that hard.

I can do it.

You can too.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thank you OP & to all who posted.

It gave me enough confidence to weld a small project for my sons school, a first for me.

I have always said I can do anything but drywall finishing, sharpening a chainsaw chain on the saw, & welding.

I can now check welding off the list. Not a pro by any means, but I could tell a difference by the end of the project and will practice more.

Nothing fancy. Just a frame holding 1/4" LEXAN for the kids to paint with Tempera paint then wash it off and start again.

The little ones absolutely loved it with two of them painting for an hour and a half straight.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/128773/IMG_7003_2-341347.JPG

SO. AWESOME!!!

Congratulations on being a welder!!!

Details on how you did it and what you used?

Finishing drywall ain't that hard.

I can do it.

You can too.

I just used 16 ga tubing for the perimeter, 1" & 1/2" angle to hold in the lexan, & 3/4" tube for the ends to hinge with 1/2" cpvc pipe with an elbow for the hinge pins.
1" tube for the leg & 3/4 tube for the pin to fit in the upright.
I need to drill a hole and weld in some nuts on the leg base and use a T bolt to pin in the leg so it doesn't fall out when picked up.

I had a commercial job a few years ago that needed a ton of simple burglar bars.
I had 3 welding shops give me bids and couldn't believe how much it was.
My super convinced me to let him do it, so we bought all the equipment, did the job, and still turned a tiny profit.

I bought for that job:

Miller 211 with the big spool of flux and solid wire
Big cylinder of gas
Miller digital infinity helmet
8 vice-grip welding clamps
Four big 90 degree clamps for up to 4" metal
eight 8x8 welding blankets
Misc gloves, pencils, etc.
MK morse metal devil 14" chop saw with carbide blade

We already had:
dewalt cordless portaband
misc grinder, drills, etc.

I made it a point to buy myself a new tool every time I have been voluntold to do a school project.
This year it was the dewalt 60 volt grinder & diamond cutoff blade which I used the hell out of.
Bought it under a promo and got a second battery no charge.

So I'm lucky that I had all the equipment & just needed the desire & time to play with it.

Posted: 10/23/2017 1:42:56 PM EDT

[#37]

Quote History

Quoted:

I just used 16 ga tubing for the perimeter, 1" & 1/2" angle to hold in the lexan, & 3/4" tube for the ends to hinge with 1/2" cpvc pipe with an elbow for the hinge pins.
1" tube for the leg & 3/4 tube for the pin to fit in the upright.
I need to drill a hole and weld in some nuts on the leg base and use a T bolt to pin in the leg so it doesn't fall out when picked up.

I had a commercial job a few years ago that needed a ton of simple burglar bars.
I had 3 welding shops give me bids and couldn't believe how much it was.
My super convinced me to let him do it, so we bought all the equipment, did the job, and still turned a tiny profit.

I bought for that job:

Miller 211 with the big spool of flux and solid wire
Big cylinder of gas
Miller digital infinity helmet
8 vice-grip welding clamps
Four big 90 degree clamps for up to 4" metal
eight 8x8 welding blankets
Misc gloves, pencils, etc.
MK morse metal devil 14" chop saw with carbide blade

We already had:
dewalt cordless portaband
misc grinder, drills, etc.

I made it a point to buy myself a new tool every time I have been voluntold to do a school project.
This year it was the dewalt 60 volt grinder & diamond cutoff blade which I used the hell out of.
Bought it under a promo and got a second battery no charge.

So I'm lucky that I had all the equipment & just needed the desire & time to play with it.

View Quote

Voluntold.

Posted: 10/23/2017 6:15:51 PM EDT

[#38]

With a 240VAC dryer outlet in the garage, what's the range of options I should be looking @ in Harbor Freight/Northern Tool? Or should I go a-pawning?

Posted: 10/23/2017 6:32:12 PM EDT

[#39]

Quote History

Quoted:
Bump again.

Though if I don't get over my hatred of pex, I may be learning to sweat copper. That's "sort of" welding, right?

View Quote

Don't run pex anywhere rats can get to it. They love chewing on the stuff, So no crawl spaces or exterior. Oh if it is exterior paint it. A lot of pex is not UV protected.

Posted: 10/23/2017 10:27:27 PM EDT

[#40]

Quote History

Quoted:

Don't run pex anywhere rats can get to it. They love chewing on the stuff, So no crawl spaces or exterior. Oh if it is exterior paint it. A lot of pex is not UV protected.

View Quote

Thank you. It's clear that my gut is hating this stuff for a reason.

Posted: 11/10/2017 8:04:59 AM EDT

[#41]

oh lets not have this thread die.

every winter when the seasonal layoff comes. i tell myself i will start welding up all kinds of projects. i don't have a garage. welding in a foot of snow at -10 just seems to drain my motivation.

i do have a one of those metal car ports. i managed to get some free tin that kinda matched the roof . so i brought down the sides. i think i have a solution to close off the back side(think fallout 4 build

). even if that doesn't allow me to weld in the dead of winter. i am hoping it will allow me to work on some of the nicer days.

last winter i managed to install a 220 outlet outside. and i now have a 220 welding extension cord.

the dream lives on and so to should this thread.

Posted: 11/11/2017 8:05:29 PM EDT

[#42]

Quote History

Quoted:
With a 240VAC dryer outlet in the garage, what's the range of options I should be looking @ in Harbor Freight/Northern Tool? Or should I go a-pawning?

View Quote

@Rat_Patrol I don't know if you saw this.

I don't have answers, but you and some others might.

Posted: 11/12/2017 11:37:23 AM EDT

[#43]

Quote History

Quoted:
@Rat_Patrol I don't know if you saw this.

I don't have answers, but you and some others might.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
With a 240VAC dryer outlet in the garage, what's the range of options I should be looking @ in Harbor Freight/Northern Tool? Or should I go a-pawning?

@Rat_Patrol I don't know if you saw this.

I don't have answers, but you and some others might.

Gives you 30 amps, possibly 40 but I doubt it.

Gives you a lot of options. Having a welder on 120 volt is a compromise. A big expense you may not consider is your extension cord. The proper stuff is going to be 10 gauge for a 30 amp breaker. The correct way is to get some rubber chord with 3 conductors plus ground. eBay is the cheapest for this I found. In the survival forum, I have a topic on first page about how to safely power both legs with a120 generator. In the op with instructions how do do it, I reference the proper wire.

What technology of welder you get is up to you. There is stick, flux core wire, and wire with shielding gas. Each have their pros and cons, but there isn't too good of any reason to go stick. In this world you pay to play. Features, power, warranty, and duty cycle are directly proportional to how much you have to spend.

Posted: 11/12/2017 12:07:27 PM EDT

[#44]

I'm reading - buy as much Harbor Freight 240VAC welder as I can afford, and situate as close to the outlet as I can?

Posted: 11/12/2017 3:08:46 PM EDT

[#45]

Quote History

Quoted:
I'm reading - buy as much Harbor Freight 240VAC welder as I can afford, and situate as close to the outlet as I can?

View Quote

Pretty much.

Posted: 11/12/2017 3:37:11 PM EDT

[#46]

Make sure the welder only requires up to 30 amps though

Posted: 11/12/2017 4:51:15 PM EDT

[#47]

As a novice who's been welding on a huge project for the last few months.

Here are a few tricks I researched and they work great.

prep the area thoroughly with a wire brush on an angle grinder (til shiny but roughed up)

keep grounding clamp close to the weld

always where possible weld directly above so gravity pulls puddle down into the joint

slow wire feed way down til the molten wire drips into the puddle (not pushed into the puddle)

drag the puddles using a slow consistent motion

at the end of the bead keep going just a bit more than where one would think to stop (this works great for me)

one of my recent welds using 120V .030 mig wire w/shielding gas, this was a straight pull no fancy swirling techniques, each one of those circles is a drip

Attached File

Posted: 11/12/2017 8:58:25 PM EDT

[#48]

That's great!

And good tips. I regret having life go so off the rails this year that I haven't been able to work with my little welder.

Will you share your project? (No pressure intended, but it's welcome here.)