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Link Posted: 9/4/2017 7:15:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Before you do anything with that queen cell, you need to know the status of your current queen. Did you see her?
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I wonder what should be done? It's a little late for a virgin queen to be going out on a date, isn't it?
Link Posted: 9/4/2017 7:19:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 9/4/2017 7:21:45 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 9/5/2017 2:37:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: FrankSymptoms] [#4]
Yep, I'm taking an entire week off of work and will get the mites treated. I know I have some, but because of the weather I never had a weekend off when I could get into the hive.

I've heard that the powdered sugar treatment is less effective than originally thought. I gave them that treatment once, need to repeat at bi-weekly intervals.

Or I may go with the oxalic acid treatment later in the season, when the honey flow has ended. Right now the girls are totally ignoring any kind of syrup I put out; there have been some summer monsoon rains which replenish many of the desert flowers that they enjoy.

As for actually spotting the queen: damn! I've never actually seen her in the hive, but only seen her recent offspring (capped and uncapped brood)... which seem to be plentiful. I've got new queens in both hives as of this spring.
Link Posted: 9/5/2017 3:15:03 AM EDT
[#5]
What do the experts say about powdered sugar vs. oxalic acid treatment? I'm quite capable of making a DIY oxalic acid vaporizer (for only 2 hives I can't see buying one).
Link Posted: 9/9/2017 7:25:24 AM EDT
[#6]
Can you do Oxalic Acid with honey supers on?   I have 6 hives and put MAQS in all of them yesterday.  The landing board is LOADED with dead bees today.  Normal?   I also seem to have some bald faced wasps that have taken an interest in the hives.
Link Posted: 9/9/2017 7:37:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cuttingedge] [#7]
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Originally Posted By Martlet:
Can you do Oxalic Acid with honey supers on?   I have 6 hives and put MAQS in all of them yesterday.  The landing board is LOADED with dead bees today.  Normal?   I also seem to have some bald faced wasps that have taken an interest in the hives.
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No, supers have to be removed or blocked off during treatments. I have never used MAQS but have heard of some "bee death" as well as queen loss during treatments. This is especially true if the temps are high. I will be switching to MAQS or Formic Pro next year for my production colonies. I will follow up with OA when they are broodless as a clean-up treatment.
Link Posted: 9/9/2017 7:38:53 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:
What do the experts say about powdered sugar vs. oxalic acid treatment? I'm quite capable of making a DIY oxalic acid vaporizer (for only 2 hives I can't see buying one).
View Quote
Powdered sugar is good for testing with the sugar roll method. For treating, it is not very effective.
Link Posted: 9/12/2017 9:46:05 AM EDT
[#9]
I know nothing about bee keeping and I'm sure the 109 pages would teach me much.  

I wonder if I want to be a bee keeper [I'm in the process of buying rural land and for the first time will have a place to do so].  

So, my questions are:

How much time does it take [monthly/annually] to be a bee keeper?

Can one ignore them for weeks at a time [I'll be up to the property frequently but will still live an hour+ away during the week and on some weekends].  

How much effort is needed in the 'ramp up' process?

I guess I'm asking what don't I know [which is everything ] and is this a time intensive endeavor?  

If it matters, I live in eastern MO so the bees would be north of St Louis Mo.  

Thanks
Link Posted: 9/12/2017 2:58:08 PM EDT
[#10]
Attachment Attached File


My friend called up and said he had bees in his refrigerator in his shed and wanted me to come get them. I went to take a look, moved all the junk away from the fridge. The bees are actually in a 2x2 wooden box/stand he built to keep the fridge off the ground. It's open on bottom, 2x8 lumber on the sides, plywood on top, bees are up inside there.

I moved the fridge, then lifted on end of the box slightly. 50 to 60lbs. Heavy. Gotta be full of bees.

I told him I needed a bigger box and would be back Wednesday. Bees are pretty calm. Do I need a vacuum to move them or can I just cut the comb out, mount it in my frames and haul them out?
Link Posted: 9/12/2017 10:37:58 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 9/12/2017 10:42:23 PM EDT
[#12]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


If it were me I would find/catch the queen if you can, then do a cutout and mount in frames using rubber bands (but that's how I do it--there are other ways).

I would leave them all they have as far as stores.  

Dux and CE may have other advice.
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That's how I would do it as well. It appears that you can get to the colony pretty easily so no need for a vacuum.
Link Posted: 9/13/2017 10:42:13 AM EDT
[#13]
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, but then I read all this stuff about using a vacuum. I already have my frames and rubber bands ready to go. I thought I had a helper, but he hasn't called me back yet.

Big job, pretty easy to work with though, I just need to smoke a bit, flip the box over and start cutting.

This is the 3rd wild hive that's made a home on this guy's property. I'm just going to leave a 4frame box there with foundations for the next swarm to move into.
Link Posted: 9/13/2017 8:17:30 PM EDT
[#14]
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Originally Posted By R3drid3r:

I know nothing about bee keeping and I'm sure the 109 pages would teach me much.  

I wonder if I want to be a bee keeper [I'm in the process of buying rural land and for the first time will have a place to do so].  

So, my questions are:

How much time does it take [monthly/annually] to be a bee keeper?

Can one ignore them for weeks at a time [I'll be up to the property frequently but will still live an hour+ away during the week and on some weekends].  

How much effort is needed in the 'ramp up' process?

I guess I'm asking what don't I know [which is everything ] and is this a time intensive endeavor?  

If it matters, I live in eastern MO so the bees would be north of St Louis Mo.  

Thanks
View Quote
Hello....??????

How, technically, is beginning bee keeps is?

How time consuming is it?

If you want me to go away at least do me the honor of telling me to do so.  

Thanks
Link Posted: 9/13/2017 10:31:36 PM EDT
[#15]
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Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:
Okay, just did an inspection of my hive. I found a few disturbing things.
I scraped this off the bottom of the hive.

http://oi66.tinypic.com/ddztqv.jpg
The white things at the top and at 3:00 look like some larva that didn't make it. There are several tiny red specks that I think are mites. There are several dead bees there, too. This was only in one small area of the hive. The most disturbing thing was a small, lively, segmented white thing, about the diameter of a fine sewing needle. I HOPE it was a bee larva. This was the worst stuff I found.

http://oi64.tinypic.com/2m5fo61.jpg
Looks like a single queen cell. This late in the season, I believe it was a precautionary cell, but it IS capped... progeny waiting to hatch.

http://oi65.tinypic.com/2mzayk1.jpg
This looks like they're just trying to make some cross-comb. This end of the hive seems to have a lot of empty comb, ready for honey. (The brood is in the center of the hive.)

http://oi68.tinypic.com/zsjts3.jpg
This is just some dirty comb. This is one of the original 4 frames my beek mentor gave me a year ago. It was a whole frame back then; now it's a half frame, looks dirty, and the cells are very shallow, like the sides have eroded. Should I cut it away and use it for whatever honey wax is used for?

All else looks good in both hives: there's plenty of capped and uncapped brood, and plenty of comb. Bees all look pretty active.

*I smoked 'em this time, didn't get stung once.
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Link Posted: 9/13/2017 10:38:59 PM EDT
[#16]
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I ended up with a hell of a hive for my first removal. I gotta go back tomorrow with a second box and another set of frames to fit it all. Feeling a bit overwhelmed, but I guess there's a first time for everything.
Link Posted: 9/14/2017 5:21:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: FrankSymptoms] [#17]
R3, sorry I didn't post this earlier. For various reasons I have limited time to post these days.
This is based on my own experience; I've just completed my first year as a beekeeper. I got my first hive in June of last year and started my second hive earlier this year. These opinions are based on my own experience. YMMV.

**********

Originally Posted By R3drid3r:

I know nothing about bee keeping and I'm sure the 109 pages would teach me much.  

I wonder if I want to be a bee keeper [I'm in the process of buying rural land and for the first time will have a place to do so].  

So, my questions are:

How much time does it take [monthly/annually] to be a bee keeper?

I have 2 top bar hives.
I typically put in less than an hour a week, per hive (I have 2 hives). Sometimes I put in more, like when i'm treating for mites.


Can one ignore them for weeks at a time [I'll be up to the property frequently but will still live an hour+ away during the week and on some weekends].  


I wouldn't want to leave them for more than a couple of weeks at first. You want to monitor them fairly closely for the first 2 months or so. After that they can be left alone for longer periods, BUT things can happen (mites, animal attacks, etc) that make it necessary to keep watch on them.


How much effort is needed in the 'ramp up' process?

Not so much. Setting up the hive is fairly straight-forward. If at all possible, work with a senior beekeeper; the old guys (and gals) are a gold mine of information.
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I guess I'm asking what don't I know [which is everything ] and is this a time intensive endeavor?  

If it matters, I live in eastern MO so the bees would be north of St Louis Mo.  

Thanks
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Getting bees: There are several ways to get your first hive. I suggest you get a package of bees complete with a queen. This package can be mailed to you or you may pick it up from a local beekeeper. The 3 pound package is about the size of a  shoe box.
You might also work with a local beekeeper who finds and disposes of swarms. This will get you a hive of wild bees, whose genetics haven't been monitored.
You may wish to search for my posts on this thread because I've had a lot of ups & downs. Beekeeping has a lot of pitfalls; there are a lot of things that can go wrong It's sort of like raising a family.

BTW you mention you are in Missouri. Do you have bears there? Believe me, you DON'T want bears. They love honey, and with their thick coats, they are virtually immune to bee stings. You should prepare a bear-resistant fence for your hives. For black bears, I think a cyclone fence might be enough.

Skunks are another predator to be aware of, as they love to eat bees.
Link Posted: 9/14/2017 5:38:43 AM EDT
[#18]
Here is a link to an article by a couple of local beekeepers. This link explains a lot about top bar hives and why they are needed. It also provides a set of plans for a "standardized" top bar hive.
Standardization is needed because it greatly eases the sharing of resources. For example, if you wish to introduce new brood into your older hive, if your top  bars are the same design, you simply trade a few bars between hives.

Top bar hives were introduced into Africa (Kenya, iirc) to help local populations get into beekeeping. But standardization was not a top priority; TBH's have been made from a variety of shapes, including 30-gallon drums!
Link Posted: 9/14/2017 9:16:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: FrankSymptoms] [#19]
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I guess the $64,000 question is.... would you do it again, knowing what you know now?
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Absolutely! I went in to it with the idea that it would be a steep learning curve. It's lots of fun!

We have a few bears in MO and I'll have to see if they are in the part of the state when the land is [North East corner]. My guess is they are south.


I probably don't have to tell you: Bears are INCREDIBLY destructive. They are just no fun.
Blacks can be timid; browns are more aggressive and if you have grizzlies, you only need a .22 LR pistol. (You shoot your companion in the kneecap and run away while he lies there screaming and attracting the bear's attention.)

My posts start last year and I got my hive in June.
Link Posted: 9/14/2017 10:21:16 PM EDT
[#20]
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Originally Posted By R3drid3r:


Hello....??????

How, technically, is beginning bee keeps is?

How time consuming is it?

If you want me to go away at least do me the honor of telling me to do so.  

Thanks
View Quote
Beekeeping is a very rewarding hobby. It was a just a hobby for me a few years ago and now it has become a passion as well as part of my income. My advice to you would be to ask lots of questions. If you could, I would also research bee clubs in your area as well as see if anyone offers beginning beekeeping classes. Finding a mentor proved to be a great asset for me. I myself took beginner and advanced beekeeping classes when I started.
Link Posted: 9/17/2017 8:01:41 AM EDT
[#21]
R3drid3r, this is the reason you should inspect your hives weekly.

In just a couple of weeks, my hive has gotten very sick. There are a lot of dead bees in front of the hive, the population is way down, and it seems that there are wax moths attacking the hive.
I pulled a lot of sticky web-like stuff from the bottom of the hive, along with a bunch more of those worms I reported on just a few days ago. There are several brood with the tops cut off, killing the brood inside. (This is another symptom of wax moth invasion.) There's some honey being made, but not as much as I'd like to see, and I did find some capped uncapped larva, so the queen is still alive. The temperatures have been getting cool at night, down into the low 60s and upper 50s, so I think that she's slowing her egg-laying, knowing that fall is approaching.
I inspected the hive and found that there's a fairly heavy varrora mite infestation. I've already treated it once with the powdered sugar treatment, which I now find isn't as effective as it was originally thought. I've been planning to treat with oxalic acid fumes when the temperatures drop and the honey flow ends.
Link Posted: 9/17/2017 5:24:48 PM EDT
[#22]
Thanks for all the great advice.

Sorry you're having some challenges right now.  Hope your hive rights itself [with your help of course] as soon as possible.
Link Posted: 9/18/2017 1:00:19 AM EDT
[#23]
I did a little research, and found something that would have helped, but it's now illegal to use... it builds up in the wax combs, and becomes toxic.
I'm still looking for an answer. I want to smoke 'em with oxalic acid (used for varrora mites). Still looking for answers to the hive worms.
Link Posted: 9/19/2017 9:08:37 AM EDT
[#24]
Late season swarm
Link Posted: 9/19/2017 10:34:20 PM EDT
[#25]
Link Posted: 9/20/2017 5:29:41 AM EDT
[#26]
^

Thanks for the encouragement, insight and advice.  

I close on the property I'm buying in Jan, 2018 and it'll be a least a year to clean it up enough to have the margin to begin bee-keeping but i've always thought I wanted to and so it is now on my list of one of the ways to use this new treasure of land.
Link Posted: 9/20/2017 8:28:43 PM EDT
[#27]
Link Posted: 9/21/2017 12:18:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ShadowsNight] [#28]
It would seem that i now have 109 pages of bee things to read...jumped in with both feet, wife found. What ended up being 4 hives on offerup at a stupid cheap price so we went and picked them up today. No bees in the hives so i have all winter to get my learn on.
Link Posted: 9/21/2017 12:21:35 AM EDT
[#29]
Link Posted: 9/21/2017 1:03:29 AM EDT
[#30]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Okay wait.

So you bought four boxes, basically?

Were there supposed to be bees in those hives?

And can you tell us more about what you bought?

There is the possibility of disease in the boxes. That's why I'm asking.

Depending on what you bought, you might be fine.

But we would not be doing our jobs if we didn't grill you for details, and help you make sure you are good to go.
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Originally Posted By ShadowsNight:
It would seem that i now have 109 pages of bee things to read...jumped in with both feet, wife found. What ended up being 4 hives on offerup at a stupid cheap price so we went and picked them up today. No bees in the hives so i have all winter to get my learn on.
Okay wait.

So you bought four boxes, basically?

Were there supposed to be bees in those hives?

And can you tell us more about what you bought?

There is the possibility of disease in the boxes. That's why I'm asking.

Depending on what you bought, you might be fine.

But we would not be doing our jobs if we didn't grill you for details, and help you make sure you are good to go.
No bees they had two hives lost the first one swarmed last summer and lost the last one this past winter, im guessing this last hive loss was probably due to neglect/ cold temps. The hives didnt appear to have any external insulation. There was two hives already put together .

there was a base and enough supers and frames to build a third one and a brand new one the gal we bought them from had built, some kind of argentinian styled design. Also gave us two bee suits free of charge. I havemt cracked the complete hives open yet to see what the inside looks like will probably do that in a couple days if i cam get a friend of mine who is a veteran bee keeper to go through them with me. And if theres good honey left ill probably extract it.
Link Posted: 9/21/2017 1:38:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: scorpionmain] [#31]
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... lost the last one this past winter, im guessing this last hive loss was probably due to neglect/ cold temps. The hives didnt appear to have any external insulation.
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Bees don't die of cold. They make their own heat. They die if they run out fuel (honey) to sustain their warmth. No need for insulation. Often folks trying to insulate a hive ends up killing them because it traps moisture in the hive, condenses and drips onto the cluster and it spells their demise.
Link Posted: 9/21/2017 1:49:47 AM EDT
[#32]
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Originally Posted By scorpionmain:


Bees don't die of cold. They make their own heat. They die if they run out fuel (honey) to sustain their warmth. No need for insulation. Often folks trying to insulate a hive ends up killing them because it traps moisture in the hive, condenses and drips onto the cluster and it spells their demise.
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Interesting i didnt know about that. I m thinking it was probably not enough of a food source that did the last hive in.
Link Posted: 9/21/2017 9:12:39 PM EDT
[#33]
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Originally Posted By scorpionmain:


Bees don't die of cold. They make their own heat. They die if they run out fuel (honey) to sustain their warmth. No need for insulation. Often folks trying to insulate a hive ends up killing them because it traps moisture in the hive, condenses and drips onto the cluster and it spells their demise.
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I respectfully disagree
Cold does kill bees. This is especially true in climates like mine. Up here we insulate for a multitude of reasons but we also provide adequate ventilation to prevent condensation.
Link Posted: 9/21/2017 11:08:29 PM EDT
[#34]
Well had a buddy of mine who has a few years experience with bees stop by and crack open the two hives that were used.. Both hives got hit with wax moths and ants and rodents, and the other hive appears to have starved over the winter.
Link Posted: 9/22/2017 11:24:15 AM EDT
[#35]
there are 2 books titled "The Hive and the Honey Bee"

Authors are:

Joe Grahm and J. Ambrose

or:

Dadant and Sons.....

Which is the 'good' book?
Link Posted: 9/23/2017 9:35:26 AM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By R3drid3r:
there are 2 books titled "The Hive and the Honey Bee"

Authors are:

Joe Grahm and J. Ambrose

or:

Dadant and Sons.....

Which is the 'good' book?
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Both.  Read anything you can find. It's about building a body of knowledge, in my year of experience.  

The more raw knowledge you have, the better equipped you will be when things get crazy. And they will.

I had hives trying to swarm (and one did, despite my efforts) five weekend after installing packages on naked plastic foundation.  Didn't expect that!  

I've isolated a hive with some sac brood, and remedied that with some pollen patties and a load of extra bees from another hive.  It was a weak colony, so I helped it out.  

Also, watch YouTube videos. Lots of great channels. Crappy ones, too.  But the good and the bad really help build a big picture of what works and what fails.  The video comments are a great source to weed out bad info, too.  Lots of good discussion in the comments to again build a big picture.
Link Posted: 9/23/2017 6:51:20 PM EDT
[#37]
DUX, if you get a chance, would you be willing to post a picture of your candy boards? It would be greatly appreciated.
Link Posted: 9/23/2017 9:47:19 PM EDT
[#38]
Link Posted: 9/23/2017 10:41:45 PM EDT
[#39]
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
DUX, if you get a chance, would you be willing to post a picture of your candy boards? It would be greatly appreciated.
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I've got a few orders for them to make up this week so I will try to get some pics.  I'll post my recipe for the cakes also.
Link Posted: 9/24/2017 1:13:18 AM EDT
[#40]
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Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
I've got a few orders for them to make up this week so I will try to get some pics.  I'll post my recipe for the cakes also.
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Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
DUX, if you get a chance, would you be willing to post a picture of your candy boards? It would be greatly appreciated.
I've got a few orders for them to make up this week so I will try to get some pics.  I'll post my recipe for the cakes also.
Thanks it would be appreciated.
Link Posted: 9/27/2017 2:04:54 PM EDT
[#41]
Our bee club is looking for volunteers to man a bee booth at the state fair (Dallas). My wife and I are considering doing it for a few hours. They're telling me that the majority of questions you'll get will be stuff like, "do you get stung?" and anyone with a minimum of bee knowledge can handle it. Anyone do anything like that?
Link Posted: 9/27/2017 10:00:38 PM EDT
[#42]
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Originally Posted By joemama74:
Our bee club is looking for volunteers to man a bee booth at the state fair (Dallas). My wife and I are considering doing it for a few hours. They're telling me that the majority of questions you'll get will be stuff like, "do you get stung?" and anyone with a minimum of bee knowledge can handle it. Anyone do anything like that?
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No but I am the speaker at our bee club meeting tomorrow. Good luck!
Link Posted: 9/28/2017 12:31:20 PM EDT
[#43]
Robber Bees

I figured out a way to handle them, it takes a little bit of monitoring though.  They are relentless and will decimate a hive in just a few days.  What's worse, is th robbing generally attracts wasps who also join the fray.

First I installed the Bee Smart robbing screens which work very well, but the robbers eventually find their way in.  When I saw the robbing begin, I closed up the entrance door of the robbing screen.  This protects the hive but also leaves worker bees outside the hive.  Not to worry, just wait until evening when the robbers leave, and open it back up.

Once all of the bees are back in, close it up again.  In the morning when things warm up, check the closed hive.  The robbers will likely have returned and will be clustered around the hive trying to get in.  Grab your shop vac and vacuum up every damned one of them.  You may have to do one vacuum, then come back a bit later to get the rest.  

There may be a few stragglers, but the hive should be able to defend itself effectively against the few remaining robbers.  

I have found most robbers usually come from other hives that have had too much honey harvested and/or are not being fed in the fall and need it.  It pisses me off that beekeeper do this to their colonies because it not only endangers those colonies, but induces robbing behavior.  

It's important to check hives daily during a dearth to make sure hives aren't getting robbed out.  Anyway, this worked for me.  I realized I killed a bunch of bees in the process, but I'm tired of losing colonies to robbing.
Link Posted: 9/28/2017 3:25:36 PM EDT
[#44]
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Originally Posted By 1811guy:
Robber Bees

I figured out a way to handle them, it takes a little bit of monitoring though.  They are relentless and will decimate a hive in just a few days.  What's worse, is th robbing generally attracts wasps who also join the fray.

First I installed the Bee Smart robbing screens which work very well, but the robbers eventually find their way in.  When I saw the robbing begin, I closed up the entrance door of the robbing screen.  This protects the hive but also leaves worker bees outside the hive.  Not to worry, just wait until evening when the robbers leave, and open it back up.

Once all of the bees are back in, close it up again.  In the morning when things warm up, check the closed hive.  The robbers will likely have returned and will be clustered around the hive trying to get in.  Grab your shop vac and vacuum up every damned one of them.  You may have to do one vacuum, then come back a bit later to get the rest.  

There may be a few stragglers, but the hive should be able to defend itself effectively against the few remaining robbers.  

I have found most robbers usually come from other hives that have had too much honey harvested and/or are not being fed in the fall and need it.  It pisses me off that beekeeper do this to their colonies because it not only endangers those colonies, but induces robbing behavior.  

It's important to check hives daily during a dearth to make sure hives aren't getting robbed out.  Anyway, this worked for me.  I realized I killed a bunch of bees in the process, but I'm tired of losing colonies to robbing.
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I have found that a damp sheet thrown over the hive works as well. Robbing screens are recommended by many. I have yet to use one. I keep my entrances reduced all season long and close up top entrances during a dearth. I also don’t feed near the entrances of the hives. This is why I like to open feed away from the apiary. IMHO, it does not promote robbing because they are too busy going from the hive to the feeders and getting a lot of food all at once.
Link Posted: 9/30/2017 12:32:21 AM EDT
[#45]
Link Posted: 10/4/2017 2:50:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: joemama74] [#46]
I failed.

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Wouldn't be right to just report my successes and not document my failures. If nothing else I learned a lot from trying to move this hive and took some honey out of it because there was just no way to get it all in the deep and medium I had. Another problem was that this was 40 minutes from my house and I had to drive out there twice to move it into a hive box and then it was two weeks before I got out there again to check on them. I had bought a 4 gallon top feeder and had already bought replacement frames and boxes (I've been trying to keep one set on hand, ready to go.) So there goes $100 I didn't need to spend right now.

But they obviously just packed their shit and left. I dunno where they went. My buddy is happy they are out of his shed, but I was really hoping to have that hive. They were gentle. He says there's another existing hive further back on his property, but they are pissy. I told him I would try to move that till next Spring. In the meantime, hopefully they resettled some place else on the property. All the honey I left is gone.

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I need to start melting down this comb, at least for the wax, maybe save a bit for various stuff.
Link Posted: 10/4/2017 4:26:07 PM EDT
[#47]
Link Posted: 10/4/2017 5:15:52 PM EDT
[#48]
It is wax moth. Only that one spot. It didn't take long.
Link Posted: 10/6/2017 5:10:54 PM EDT
[#49]
Link Posted: 10/6/2017 7:57:28 PM EDT
[#50]
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