After 17.5 years in the military I have learned some lessons about gear in no particular order I just started typing out my thoughts and experiences on the subject. I decided to post them here so maybe someone would benefit from my experiences as some of it may be useful for the prepared American.

Some General Rules;
1.Simplicity is best when it comes to most gear, either simple to operate or simply constructed and preferably both.
2.Two is one & one is none.
3.The philosophy of better to have it and not need than need it and not have it is a good one. Just remember you have to move all this shit yourself.
4.If it looks stupid or ghey but it works for you it’s not stupid or ghey.
5.Mark your shit with your name, all of it… unless you don’t want your name on it for whatever reason.

A.Deployment Bags aka dead hooker bags of all shapes and sizes. Generally the fewer pockets it has it better. It needs shoulder straps and wheels are nice but not necessary. Don’t get a huge one and don’t get a small one and always carry an extra aviators kit bag or duffle bag in case you have to pack fast, you can throw your extra shit in there without packing it like a Tetris game. Those eagle creek packing cubes work great for round duffle bags. AWS Inc. and the North Face heavy duty duffles are awesome, they are also kind of a low key way of transporting your shit as you will look like every other joe that shops at REI.

B.On the subject of packs you cannot beat the old school ALICE pack and a Three day assault pack. The less straps the better. If you are looking for a modern turnkey ALICE pack look at the Tactical Tailor MALICE V2 Kit for a Large size and a Spec Ops Brand Recon Ruck for a bit smaller. The frames from Tactical Assault Gear and Tactical Tailor are good modern welded ones. I still have the old riveted ones but have been looking at those for a replacement. If you have the room in your load out bag a small beavertail style hydration pack is a good extra piece of kit. Look hard at some of the civilian style packs as well, they work really well for what they are and would suit most people vs. the ALICE style pack. If you are worried about color there is Rit Dye and Krylon if you must.

C.A knife, the simpler the better. Don’t get fancy but buy quality and for god’s sake do not get a serrated blade it’s a pain in the ass to sharpen in the field. You don’t need a USMC KaBar but you don’t need a paring knife. Most of the time a high quality folder will do and pack two just in case you drop one. If you want a fixed blade go with a smaller knife like a KaBar Mk1, SOG Seal Pup Elite or Benchmade Nimravus. They can all be had with a ambidextrous scabbard, are light weight and are just about the right size for most tasks. Speaking of knives carry a fucking sharpener please.

D.Multi tool, Leatherman is the original but I find myself having a Gerber or SOG most of the time and after 17.5 years of abusing these types of tools… I still have my original blunt nose Gerber tool. SOG is good and tough; the tools can be customized to your liking by ordering the components from SOG. BTW removable bits are nice but I have had so many problems with the spring retention and the bits themselves.

E.Flashlights, down range CR123 are out there but if you have to purchase your own get stuff that is AA. There are Flashlights that are LED like 4 Sevens that use AA and have a tail cap that work fine just get the spare tailcap kit. Get a headlamp that is multipurpose as well, I was issued a Princeton Tech but purchased a Streamlight Sidewinder 2 and it takes AA and CR123. It can go on a helmet, head band or your vest and it super simple to use with gloves. Oh and the Maglite Mini Mag AA is still going strong.

F.Weapons, I just used what was issued to me but I can offer some advice ;

i.Get or put a cleaning kit together
ii.Keep it clean
iii.Simple is better in all aspects of a weapons system
iv.An optic is better than no optic but if you are stuck with iron sights a carry handle is best
v.AIMPOINT, EO TECH, TRIJICON and ELCAN are legit kit. If you can’t afford anything else get a AIMPOINT PRO and get a good rear iron sight like a Knights, ARMS etc.
vi.LMT SOPMOD Buttstock is awesome
vii.CQD rear and front sling mounting points are worth the money and time to install
viii.A Surefire scout is a good weapon light and the tape switch you can put on the rail is best.
ix.You don’t need a forward grip but it’s nice to have
x.Slings, two point slings that are VTAC, Vickers or Redi Mag are the best to use in my experience. Mind you I am not a shooter but even in the small amount of CQC shooting training I got a two point still works. If you find yourself walking around without a armor vest of some kind I would go with the VTAC or the LBT lightweight 2 Quick Adjust Two point. You can cinch them up tight against your body.
xi.Suppressors are money, if you can purchase one they are worth it.
xii.If you have a NOD you will probably want a IR Laser or at least an illuminator.
xiii.The Redi-Mag is nice if you are a Police Officer on a patrol rifle or a home owner who will use a AR for self-defense since it keeps more rounds with the gun. If you are out hiking, humping the boonies or doing some dynamic shit with lots of running around and stuff for an extended time it’s not worth the extra weight.
xiv.Spray painting your rifle may or may not be to your benefit, it depends on what you are doing and where.
xv.Guns break carry two or at least carry spare critical components. I could not carry spares or a pistol for the majority of my time on active duty but my personal SHTF AR has a spare bolt with it. I also carry concealed when legal and prudent.
xvi.Magazines are disposable invest in Brownells or Magpul for your AR. In factory mags we trust for pistols or MECGAR.
xvii.You don’t need a pistol lanyard
xviii.You want a durable holster with retention, either a BlackHawk CQC or a Safariland Holster with ALS or the bail. Both have their place and are useful don’t be a hater.
xix.Concealed carry holsters are fine just remember you have to train how you fight so drawing from concealment with a  dry gun is prudent.
xx.You don’t need rails on a pistol
xxi.A pistol light is not necessary for most but if you do run one, buy a Safariland holster that fits it.
xxii.Night sights are money
xxiii.Pistols, 1911’s and Berettas are cool but I would stick with Glock or Sig 9mm, they are easy to operate, reliable and they don’t come standard with safetys. 9mm is cheaper than most rounds and will put someone down just like other bullets. If you are in a 10 round mag state maybe .40 or .45 would be more appropriate as to not have that wasted space in the grip.

G.Body armor is awesome; wear it correctly like keeping your plates high as is make sure it covers your vitals. BTW you don’t need to cover every MOLLE strap with some pouch, that shit is heavy.
i.A Hydration pouch on the back of it is money
ii.Carry what you need and no more.
iii.For the prepped American Low Vis carrier is the way to go for most situations i.e. walk softly and carry a big stick. Don’t forget your spouse or kids you have to include them in your plans.
iv.Work out with your shit on or at least practice reloads and moving around, especially in and out of vehicles
v.MOLLE Pouches; if you want to save some cash don’t worry about matching color shades and shit. Just purchase some on sale that work for multipurpose shit, examples include using Specter Gear universal mag pouches, Tactical Tailor large utility pouches for hydration or water bottles and Spec Ops brand medical pouches. No one will care about the exact shade of Coyote or Khaki when lead is flying.
vi.If you can’t afford plates or armor don’t get a armor carrier or plate carrier to put all your shit on, get a chest vest. In fact if you are going low vis get a chest vest anyway so it is well low vis under a large shirt with or without a low vis plate carrier or armor vest.

H.Your Medical equipment should not be more advanced that you or your buddies skill level
i.Carry two or three tourniquet’s
ii.Get trained and practice
iii.Simple and labeled is better; I use a LBT small blow out kit pouch with a zipper closure. There are no elastic straps holding shit in, I put it all in a plastic bag. You could do the same in two smaller bags and label them or whatever.
iv.Boo boo kit and OTC meds are a must.

I.Survival Kits should be worn at all times and a layered approach is best when it comes to various components.
i.Build it yourself or if you purchase it at least take inventory and familiarize yourself with it
ii.Replace consumables or components that could be compromised but wear every 6 months or so
iii.Carry signaling equipment in your first line, second line and third line
iv.Carry a way to make fire in your first line, second line and third line
v.Carry a knife
vi.Carry a way to hold and make water safe to drink
vii.Carry a earth colored pair of gloves and a Balaclava to camo or subdue your skin color
viii.Wear a wrist compass and have a baseplate compass on you

J.Milspec Canteens or Nalgene bottles made of HDPE are the best water carriers if you insist on a bottle of some sort. Make sure you have a cup to boil water in.

K.Boots and footwear are important, get some that work for your feet I have worn out Rocky and Bates quickly. Bellville boots are good and will last a long time. Broken in footwear is better for a call out / ready bag. Get some decent socks as well.

L.Clothing should be well fitting and durable in construction. Again your operating environment will determine what you choose. Cargo pants are popular all over the place so you could get away with them most of the time with some work shirts.
i.Your clothing should blend in your environment or be a good solution to multiple environmental situations i.e. a rural setting where you may be in close proximity to a suburb work clothes from carhartt might be a good choice.
ii.Winter or foul weather clothing should be a color that does not attract attention like the grey PCU layer systems for example.
iii.I wouldn’t carry more than three sets of clothing i.e. trousers and shirts and I would make your shirts long sleeve. You can always roll them up.
iv.Gloves wear out, have two sets
v.A sewing kit and some super glue will go a long way
vi.The layered approach is better than a bulky jacket
vii.Dress warm rather than cool or at least pack the layers in your pack or bag
viii.Have a hat or two
ix.Carry a watchcap / beenie even if you don’t think its cold
x.A sturdy belt is a must especially for a pistol holster

M.Hygiene is important you should probably carry a small hygiene kit in your big bag and some hand sanitizer and foot power in your little pack if you are out and about.

N.Night vision is awesome get some even if it’s a Gen 1, at least you can observe
i.If you have the money get a good unit like a PVS-14 from a reputable dealer
ii.Get a helmet mount and arm for it
iii.If you don’t have a need for a ballistic helmet I wouldn’t worry about it just get the OPS Core bump helmet. Its light weight and has a build in mount or you could go with the TNVC bump helmets.

O.Hearing protection is a must if you plan on doing any extensive shooting. Peltor soundtrap or other electronic muffs are the best choice. If you can spend the coin a set of Peltor COMTACs are worth it.
i.Speaking of COMTACS or other communication headsets, they are a wise investment if you have the radios to go with them. Radios would be worth their weight if you are operating or moving in vehicles or on foot regardless.
ii.Low visibility again you may want to look at earpieces or some other thing like that.

P.Tents and shelter; if you are traveling with family a tent maybe the thing to get. Keep it simple and durable. Practice setting it up. If you are traveling alone a bivy sack maybe the way to go. If you are sheltering in place or have kids some tarps and insect netting would be a good thing.

Q.Batteries are a must; minimize the amount you have to carry by using devices that use the same type. Keep different batteries to a minimum.

R.Tools; if you are using a car or motor vehicle for transport it would be a good idea to have some basics. Trying to fix your shit with a fucking Gerber at 1 am with a flashlight in your teeth is stupid if you don’t have to. Fixing your shit with a proper tool and a LED lantern is probably a better idea. Weight is a consideration so choose wisely and tools that work for most situations.

S.Chem lights are handy, make sure you have good ones stocked and in the wrapper. The uses are varied and they are safe in a house with small kids. Keep the wrapper intact to put a activated one back in should the need arise.

Hope this helps someone not spend a shit ton of money they dont need to.

Holy wall of text.



Thanks though, good advice.

Great post, thanks

Sorry tried to keep the wall of text down by seperating stuff.

I didn't find the wall aspect too bothersome.  Considering the amount of information you gave, I thought it was separated adequately.

With that said, thanks a million.  A lot of good info there and as a relative noob, I greatly appreciate it.    

I found the night vision portion pretty interesting.  I research all of my gear purchases pretty extensively and most of the research around here has said I need to spend a pretty hefty chunk on the latest night vision or don't get any at all.  So I have basically put the purchase off as I'm not ready to drop 3-5k on night vision.  Do you have any experience with any decent Gen 1 or 2 pieces to look at?  If I could find something decent in the sub 500$ range I'd definitely add a piece to my kit.  

Thanks for any insight, for your service, and again for your post.  I liked it a lot!  

You have to weigh the cost vs. benefit. Do you want to have some ability to see in near darkness now and then save for a better unit later or save all your money now and not have the ability at all? Some people cant just drop coin on a PVS-14 including me right now so the best they will get is the unit on the shelf at the sporting good store.

Check out ATN for lower cost options, while I personally have not used a unit from them I have been told they are a ok product that will work. The units at the lower cost will probably not be helmet mountable but they could be used for observation which is a tactical advantage.

Having not been "allowed" to use night vision for a majority of my time in the service, it was refreshing to use a top of the line PVS-18 this last deployment. Much to be said about a good NOD but if you cant afford it you cant afford it.

thanks for a well laid out, thorough post

Great post, thanks!

Good stuff to remember

Great straightforward no-nonsense info, bookmarking this one so when noobs ask the inevitable I can point them to this thread, thanks!

Thanks man, I'll have a look at the ATN stuff.  My personal desire for one is strictly for observation so it might fit the bill.  Thank you again for the excellent post.

Thanks OP.

Echoing the general consensus: Good Info!!

This and the Things To Know Before Deployment in the Tactical Gear section are a treasure trove of very useful information!

.If it looks stupid or ghey but it works for you it’s not stupid or ghey.
5.Mark your shit with your name, all of it… unless you don’t want your name on it for whatever reason.


this..

Tagged for review

Thanks OP...good read.

Truth here.



If you'll be doing work tasks and need both hands (or going through the line at the chow hall), have a 2-point that you can tighten against your body and sling on your back.Makes things much easier and safer.

If you're getting in and out of vehicles with it, a one-point sling is okay, but I found it was unnecessary weight. I just used a piece of 550 cord that I clipped to the front of my body armor. It was long enough that I could fire from either shoulder, and could easily be unclipped for more unconventional shooting positions. Technically a two-point could offer more shooting support as well as unmounted patrol comfort, but the paracord offered a lot more utility for me,  as I was primarily in vehicles and only had to walk around with it for 20-30 minutes at a time. I could just cradle it on my mag pouches if I needed to, and being one-point, I could get in and out of vehicles with ease, and no need to adjust anything.

Thanks! I hope I can save someone some hard earned money.

Some handy cams have night vision capability.  Of course it leaks a lot of light while you are looking at a screen but it is what it is.



TJ had a post about some sort of nightvision a few years ago, probably time for an update on it to see if it is still working.



Run searches on the cheap nightvision and go into it with a realistic concept of what you are getting.  Might try to find someone who will let you try something out so you can see the reality of it.  I know we usually had some odds and ends show up at campouts and what not so folks could see something in person vs. pics on the net.



And I actually like some of the pics on the net, the night vision forum here is realistic.



I will own up to having a pvs14.  Had it for years now and very happy with it.  I often call it a toy.



But it really comes in handy during a power outage when the night is cloudy and it is truly dark out there.  I can see what is going on without turning on a flashlight.



Lots of folks are buying cheap home security systems, some of those have cameras that will work in the night time.



Even game cameras are coming with night vision now.



What you need to figure out is if you want to be able to move well with night vision.



For a static position, like your house, for seeing what went bump in the night I think some of the cheaper stuff works just fine.



I have been meaning to get the cord needed to rig my old handy cam up to a monitor.  I think it would make a nice front door camera.  I got it used for not much money and it is a sony handy cam that takes tapes of some sort.  Battery is shot for it and won't hold a charge.  But running it off a cord and using it to feed a monitor might work just fine.



Something for me to mess with anyway.

ii.Get trained and practice .

I think this is a key point in all of this. We can have all the equipment in the world and heck, we can have all the theoretical knowledge in the world, but if we dont have some actual practical experience, then we are fooling ourselves into believing we are ready when we are not.

Overall some great tips! There were some that I hadn't thought about.

OP. That's fucking awesome that you would take the time to type out what you feel are good survival tools. Much appreciated.
Again, many arfcommers take the time to help us all to add something that we may have missed or not thought about to prep for whatever.
From me to all of you thank you so much.

Carl

Thank you for posting this, and for your service, Sir.

outstanding post.......I agree with you 100%

I read the whole thing...

Thanks for the post OP...made for some good late-night reading. Much appreciated.

Appreciate the post, very informative. Thanks!

I agree with everything you said, especially marking your name on things, and carrying a beanie. A watch cap/beanie/PT cap makes a huge difference in comfort when you are trying to sleep in the cold.

This was simple and amazing advice and came in handy waiting for the bus this morning.

IIRC in cold weather you head loses more heat than any other part of your body.  It makes sense.

I thought I would add to this thread with names of knives that have worked for me and I have seen in many peoples pockets.

Benchmade griptilian, for the guy or gal that does not want to spend a small fortune on a good knife this is one you should seriously consider. I prefer a non serrated sheepsfoot with the thumb hole but what ever works for you. It's durable, easy to use, takes a good edge, adaptable for right or left handed operation, has lots of blade / color options and it won't break the bank.

Emerson, various models particuarly the CQC-8 and the Commander models. I have used both and like these models, easy to sharpen and carry. They are more expensive but they are very durable and user serviceable in the field with a multi tool. Lots of guys use these.

Spyderco especially the Pacific Salt and the Endura models. Easy to use, sharpen, carry and can be used by both right and left handed easy. Very thin profile and very light, I usually carried an Endura in my gym shorts and didn't notice it while I was working out a few deployments ago.

Gerber 06 variants, autos and manual folder. I have a manual folder and have handled the autos. Lots of people do have these but they are thick. They do have their advantages however, the handle is meaty and you know you are holding it, if you are using a hammer fist to break things or stab with the blade you have minimal chance of your fingers slipping past the pivot. Lock is not that ambidextrous but it super easy to use with gloves. The autos fire slower than some others but with the safety lock and the easy to use button they are good knives.

I carried my knives most of the time in my strong side pocket when I was only carrying a rifle or carbine but on my weak side when I had a pistol. If you are going to be crawling around a lot under and around vehicles doing maintenance out in the field I would use a belt pouch. I have almost lost a few knives.

All the knives I listed I have beat the snot out of during military operations and they will take it. I don't baby my stuff when work needs to be done but I do care for them like any other piece of equipment. Sharpened, cleaned and generally kept them good to go.

Sheath knives do have their place and folders will never replace them. However folders are more likely to be on you when the shit hits the fan.

Good stuff - I enjoyed reading it, and thanks for posting.

There's some good info in this thread too.

Op answered many questions and reiterated things I thought were "right" that I was doing.Thanks Bad Ass post!

Rock on brother, great post!  TONS of info and experience there.  Learned  a few of those the hard way....

Tagged

Good stuff, thx.

Good read.

On holsters like I posted before I have used both Blackhawk and Safariland both belt and drop leg.

If you are going to use a drop leg wear it as high as comfortable or usable on you leg. If it has two straps take the top one off, shorten up the drop as much as you can where it will not interfere with other equipment or your draw stroke.

I hate seeing people John Wayne shit around it looks un professional and can get you killed.

If it's up high it will not flop around as much when you run, you will be better able to defend against pistol grabs and depending on the vehicle your in you may or may not be able to draw the gun when seated. I have a drop leg set up but rarely use it.

I usually wear mine (safari land) on the belt with a mid ride jacket slot drop or a high ride belt loop depending on if I am wearing body armor or not.

Don't just stick to these holsters however if it works for you it works for you. A body hugging belt slide multi fit or dedicated pancake holster made out of leather or kydex may be what you need.

I have also seen blade tech IWB used and they work fine.

I have been "prepping" since before the internet.

I have been hardcore-prepping since before Y2K.

I have never seen more useful information come from one person.

Thank you for your service.

Thank you for posting.

From a fellow (ex) squid.

Great post OP - thank you.

Bump FYI

Some additional stuff I just thought about that I have done in the past.

Chem lights;

At night you can't feel the difference between them unless it's IR. The IR ones usually are a different shape or have bumps on them. One method I have used in the past to make sure I know which color I am about to use by feel is to prep the chem lights but securing the small zip ties to them at the base. Different amount of zip ties mean different colors and you can feel and count the number of zip ties before you break the stick to use it. This of course would be useful if you have different colors for different meanings and you are bunching them together on a carabiner or shoving them in a pouch. Think rotary wing PZ or LZ's, building searches, or any time you want to know positively what color your about to activate.

I'm sure everyone has heard of a buzz saw for search and rescue but if not it's simply a chem light on a piece of 550 cord that you twirl around in a circle to gain attention or mark your location. In this regard prepping your E&E kit beforehand is a good idea and this is what I have done to make sure I had one ready to go with minimal effort should I need one. I would open chem lights from the package one green and one IR (unit or prep group sops should dictate if not your evasion plan of action or EPA will tell rescuers what to look for) and tie them to separate ends of a piece of 2 foot long (approximate) or longer 550 cord. Then I would carefully secure them to my knife sheath with a section of inner tube long enough to cover most of the chem light body and tuck the 550 cord down in there with them leaving a loop of 550 near the top where I can get at it with a finger. The inner tube protects the chemicals from ambient light, the sheath keep them from breaking and the 550 cord can be used for a buzz saw, to secure the lights to you or for the usual 550 cord duties. When you want to use them as a signaling device slip your finger down in the inner tube, pull out your 550 cord and chem lights, determine which one to use and break it to activate. I used this method many times and it works fine.

Knives;

BTW wear your sheath knife on your trousers belt it may save your life one day and you don't want it being ditched with your second line gear if you have to un ass in a hurry.

Cheap fixes;

Inner tubes are awesome to hold onto as well for a multitude of reasons so the next time you replace one hold onto the one you just replaced. You can use it for so many things and it's cheap. Flashlight holders for helmets, secure gear, silence stuff in your survival kit, fire starting aid, etc.

Improvised VTAC;

Don't have the money (or your troop doesn't) or don't want to spend it for a cool guy VTAC sling? No problem just make one out of a silent sling and a ALICE pack strap quick adjust shoulder strap. I still show people how to make them this way because they work and they are cheap. Not as cool or good as a purpose built quick adjust sling like I've talked about before but effective none the less. They enable you to use it as a adjustable carry strap and a shooting aid. There are a few threads on this place on how to do this.

Cliff notes you'll need the following; Alice pack shoulder strap, silent sling or green marksmanship sling, duct or electrical tape and 550 cord.

Now that I'm at 18 + years of NAVY things are coming to me that I have done and I want to make sure some of this knowledge is not lost. As the little things come to me I'll add to this thread.

Thanks!

Nice post thanks for sharing.

Also if you are moving at in the wood wear safety glasses!

Great read. Thanks for the time to post it.

Tag

How I did the buzz saw packing on one of my knife sheaths and how useful a inner tube is to silence things in a survival kit. The inner tube is a pain sometimes to get into place on a sheath but it works and its cheap. I left the ends on the 550 un fused since it just rides in the sheath most of the time. Not hard to pull out at all just a bit tight getting it in there so make sure you tuck that loop in a manner that it would not get accidently pulled out, make sure it has to be deliberate.  

If you are wondering what the red cord is on the Leatherman Squirt its Type 1A Cord usually used on ALSE and as dummy cord for various things. I got mine from supply captain as I couldn't source anywhere else at the time, best glide survival also carries it. Its has a 100 lb rating. You can also use the braided masons line from home depot and it works good and its cheap for small diameter lanyards.

Great stuff,thank you for posting. I love the inner tube trick. I am going to pick some up this weekend to work into my gear setup.

This is solid advice, just make sure they don't fog up