User Panel
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Posted: 9/8/2017 12:26:28 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quick question to test your electrical knowledge: What will happen if you install a fuse upside-down in a single phase AC electrical panel? 
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Posted: 9/8/2017 12:35:57 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dumb question because you failed to specify the Northern or Southern Hemisphere.  
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Posted: 9/8/2017 12:42:02 AM EDT
[#3]
@ar-jedi, do you happen to have copies of the photos of the adapter cables and warning placards? Those are critical pics and missing from the other thread.
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Posted: 9/8/2017 1:10:39 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quick question to test your electrical knowledge: What will happen if you install a fuse upside-down in a single phase AC electrical panel? 
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Posted: 9/8/2017 1:30:46 AM EDT
[#5]
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First, you MUST ABSOLUTELY disconnect your home from the power lines and any source of 240V. Fire, destruction, death etc may results if you do not do this. Turn off main breakers, disconnect at the meter, whatever is necessary to absolutely ensure that you are not connected to regular power. Then, no problem. Connect your 120V hot side to both sides of the 240, and neutral to the center neutral. All 120 will therefore be powered, and anything 240 sees no voltage since the 240 is shorted together. Most people will say that you have to turn off all your 240 breakers, you can if you want but it won't matter. With the two sides of the 240 shorted together there is zero volts there. If you have something like an electric stove, the 120V lights would still work but the 240V burners would not. If you have any sort of wiring skills, I would get the correct plugs for each end and make a cord to do what you want. My experience is that you need to minimize the number of plugs, adapters etc to minimize losses when dealing with a generator. Make sure you use a sufficient gauge wire to handle the current draw. Another option is using a tranformer. I have a 3000 watt transformer that converts between 120V and 240V. The 240V side is center tapped so it can run split phase upto 3000 watts. This wont run an A/C unit or electric stove (actually a burner or two would work), but I have it for 240 motors in the 2-3HP range. Such as the ones that run my mill, lathe and compressor. For the future, I would strongly consider ditching that 3700watt genny and getting a EU2000i or EU3000i. People hate spending the money, but I cannot say enough about how little gas it consumes. 9 hrs on a gallon is not trivial |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 1:35:33 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@ar-jedi, do you happen to have copies of the photos of the adapter cables and warning placards? Those are critical pics and missing from the other thread. 
i have mad google images skillz and even so i can not find a copy of any of the pictures that i recall from his original (and excellent) generator thread... https://www.ar15.com/forums/outdoors/DIY_Generator_Power_Cables_andamp__Install/17-644329/ @BigDaddy0004 ar-jedi |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 1:48:40 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes but I said that it was a "redneck special" 
what i meant actually was bridging L1 and L2 in the panel itself. i would not do this. the only thing protecting you if you forget that you jumped L1 to L2 is the main breaker. and a 200A main breaker will pass about 500A for a healthy fraction of a second. that magnitude of current will turn your "bridge wire", no matter what gauge, into plasma. 
if you implement the L1 to L2 jumper in the cable connector itself, as soon as you unplug the generator cable you no longer have a bridge across L1 and L2. there is nothing to forget. and if you do leave the bridge in place, and you don't have a means of utility-to-generator isolation under the aforementioned "redneck school of engineering" wiring plan, the 20A or 30A branch circuit breaker you are backfeeding through will immediately trip without any real excitement. at least that's the way we do it up here in right-thinkin' land. 
ps the breaker trip due to the bridge short, incidentally, *should* protect the generator which you also forgot to disconnect before turning the main back on -- and you apparently forgot mostly because based on a large sample size of respondents in the GD Irma thread it seems most Floridia-based ARFCOMers prep for hurricanes by purchasing 3 times as much alcohol as they do gas and water...
ar-jedi |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 1:50:57 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Southern hemisphere obviously. We don't like Yankees here in the South. 
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Posted: 9/8/2017 1:58:36 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For the future, I would strongly consider ditching that 3700watt genny and getting a EU2000i or EU3000i. People hate spending the money, but I cannot say enough about how little gas it consumes. 9 hrs on a gallon is not trivial
e.g. https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Educate-me-on-Generators/139-2026656/?r=67887449&page=1#i67887449 and this, well, IMHO it's just insane: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Small-generator-recommendation-/139-1986488/#i65741311 15 gallons of gas consumed per day. 
195 gallons of gas consumed in a 13 day outage.
a two hour round trip to go get more gas.
ar-jedi |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 2:01:19 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
those pictures were BigDaddy0004's and IIRC when comcast abruptly got out of the hosting personal pages business he lost them all.
i have mad google images skillz and even so i can not find a copy of any of the pictures that i recall from his original (and excellent) generator thread... https://www.ar15.com/forums/outdoors/DIY_Generator_Power_Cables_andamp__Install/17-644329/ @BigDaddy0004 ar-jedi I was able to expand on the concept. I built a 120VAC crossover cord specifically for my water heater. It runs the element at 1/4 the power as when running on 240VAC, but it works. I just checked my archive folder, I didn't archive that thread. Damn. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 2:16:55 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's more difficult to read. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 2:41:16 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
suth'ners.
what i meant actually was bridging L1 and L2 in the panel itself. i would not do this. the only thing protecting you if you forget that you jumped L1 to L2 is the main breaker. and a 200A main breaker will pass about 500A for a healthy fraction of a second. that magnitude of current will turn your "bridge wire", no matter what gauge, into plasma.
if you implement the L1 to L2 jumper in the cable connector itself, as soon as you unplug the generator cable you no longer have a bridge across L1 and L2. there is nothing to forget. and if you do leave the bridge in place, and you don't have a means of utility-to-generator isolation under the aforementioned "redneck school of engineering" wiring plan, the 20A or 30A branch circuit breaker you are backfeeding through will immediately trip without any real excitement. at least that's the way we do it up here in right-thinkin' land.
ps the breaker trip due to the bridge short, incidentally, *should* protect the generator which you also forgot to disconnect before turning the main back on -- and you apparently forgot mostly because based on a large sample size of respondents in the GD Irma thread it seems most Floridia-based ARFCOMers prep for hurricanes by purchasing 3 times as much alcohol as they do gas and water...
ar-jedi Would I do a "redneck special" in my house in case of an emergency? Yes, as long as I'm the only one who has access to the electrical panel. Even then, I would make sure to size the wiring properly and to provide over-current protection on all "rigged" circuits. I would also make sure to either safely remove the main breaker or block if from being turned on accidentally. I would never do this for anyone else's house, because there is too much liability and a great margin of user's error. Guys, I'll repeat again, don't mess with the wiring of you are not familiar with what you are doing. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 11:17:02 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
i keep trying to explain this to folks but they don't listen.
e.g. https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Educate-me-on-Generators/139-2026656/?r=67887449&page=1#i67887449 and this, well, IMHO it's just insane: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Small-generator-recommendation-/139-1986488/#i65741311 15 gallons of gas consumed per day.
195 gallons of gas consumed in a 13 day outage.
a two hour round trip to go get more gas.
ar-jedi Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
For the future, I would strongly consider ditching that 3700watt genny and getting a EU2000i or EU3000i. People hate spending the money, but I cannot say enough about how little gas it consumes. 9 hrs on a gallon is not trivial
e.g. https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Educate-me-on-Generators/139-2026656/?r=67887449&page=1#i67887449 and this, well, IMHO it's just insane: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Small-generator-recommendation-/139-1986488/#i65741311 15 gallons of gas consumed per day.
195 gallons of gas consumed in a 13 day outage.
a two hour round trip to go get more gas.
ar-jedi Besides addressing the fuel consumption issues, people need to take a hard look at what their "needs" are. Grid down, there are no loads in my house that require more than the little EU2000i or my 2000watt inverter. Some day I will purchase a larger diesel to power multiple shop items for long term SHTF (mill, comp, lathe, welder) but that is more in the wants list than the needs list. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 5:14:24 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
240VAC household is simply two legs off a single phase transformer. Its not two phase power. .. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 5:26:17 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As an aside, the primary of the transformer may be single phase but from my understanding the secondary is a center-tapped setup whereby two 120vac legs, each leg being 180-degrees out of phase with the other, are derived. Thus, two phases. Why is this not "two phase" power? Just curious...it might just be customary naming conventions....I dunno. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 9:50:16 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
As an aside, the primary of the transformer may be single phase but from my understanding the secondary is a center-tapped setup whereby two 120vac legs, each leg being 180-degrees out of phase with the other, are derived. Thus, two phases. Why is this not "two phase" power? Just curious...it might just be customary naming conventions....I dunno. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 10:57:50 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice! Somebody sure took some time to flesh that out. |
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Posted: 9/8/2017 11:23:20 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As an aside, the primary of the transformer may be single phase but from my understanding the secondary is a center-tapped setup whereby two 120vac legs, each leg being 180-degrees out of phase with the other, are derived. Thus, two phases. Why is this not "two phase" power? Just curious...it might just be customary naming conventions....I dunno. BTW, in an emergency or in dare need, it's possible to run a 3 phase motor from a single phase circuit. Simply add a capacitor to provide a phase shift for the motor. The motor won't produce it's rated torque and horse power but it will run. I've done this back in the days, when dare need forced us to be creative. LOL. These days a relatively inexpensive VFD (variable frequency drive) can be used to run an 3 phase motor on a single phase circuit. You'll be able to vary speed without loosing torque or to reverse the motor as a benefit. 3 phase motors are a lot cheaper too. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 1:14:41 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
suth'ners.
what i meant actually was bridging L1 and L2 in the panel itself. i would not do this. the only thing protecting you if you forget that you jumped L1 to L2 is the main breaker. and a 200A main breaker will pass about 500A for a healthy fraction of a second. that magnitude of current will turn your "bridge wire", no matter what gauge, into plasma.
if you implement the L1 to L2 jumper in the cable connector itself, as soon as you unplug the generator cable you no longer have a bridge across L1 and L2. there is nothing to forget. and if you do leave the bridge in place, and you don't have a means of utility-to-generator isolation under the aforementioned "redneck school of engineering" wiring plan, the 20A or 30A branch circuit breaker you are backfeeding through will immediately trip without any real excitement. at least that's the way we do it up here in right-thinkin' land.
ps the breaker trip due to the bridge short, incidentally, *should* protect the generator which you also forgot to disconnect before turning the main back on -- and you apparently forgot mostly because based on a large sample size of respondents in the GD Irma thread it seems most Floridia-based ARFCOMers prep for hurricanes by purchasing 3 times as much alcohol as they do gas and water...
ar-jedi The biggest unsafe issue would be with shared neutrals which are legal, but with equal voltage on both legs could allow excess current to transit over the neutral wire. In my case I only have them to subpanels which are all rated much greater than the 30A max the generator would put out, so I don't worry about it and have never had an issue. I use an interlock and dedicated inlet. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 1:53:05 AM EDT
[#20]
BTW, guys, if you are looking to install a simple and inexpensive generator safety interlock, check out this LINK. They sell simple mechanical interlocks that allow either a generator of the main supply to power the breaker panel. It simply would not allow the main breaker to be turned on while the generator breaker is on and wise versa. It's a simple and safe solution if you can't afford an expensive transfer switch or a subpanel. They make adapters for most breaker panels.
Just thought I'd mention this. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 2:03:15 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
BTW, guys, ... http://losdos.dyndns.org/wiki/reference:generator_oracle#interconnection one day i am going to finish that document...
ar-jedi |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 2:06:08 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Guys, I'll repeat again, don't mess with the wiring of you are not familiar with what you are doing.
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Posted: 9/9/2017 3:08:40 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quick question to test your electrical knowledge: What will happen if you install a fuse upside-down in a single phase AC electrical panel? times up. Did I win? |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 12:48:35 PM EDT
[#24]
My only 220v outlet is for a LR through wall air conditioner. My generator is a Champion 2000i that provides only 120v power. To avoid running cords all over the house, I built a suicide cord with 120v male plug on one side and 220v plug on the other. Wired a 220v plug per manufacturer's instructions, then put 2 hot wires on the same terminal in the 120v plug. Have not used it yet though. I obviously would not be running any 220v appliances.
Any comments or concerns? P.S. It's been a few years since I made up the cord, so I do not remember how I wired it exactly. But I did have an electrician look at it at the time and he OKd it. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 12:58:25 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My only 220v outlet is for a LR through wall air conditioner. My generator is a Champion 2000i that provides only 120v power. To avoid running cords all over the house, I built a suicide cord with 120v male plug on one side and 220v plug on the other. Wired a 220v plug per manufacturer's instructions, then put 2 hot wires on the same terminal in the 120v plug. Have not used it yet though. I obviously would not be running any 220v appliances. Any comments or concerns? P.S. It's been a few years since I made up the cord, so I do not remember how I wired it exactly. But I did have an electrician look at it at the time and he OKd it. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 4:12:48 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My only 220v outlet is for a LR through wall air conditioner. My generator is a Champion 2000i that provides only 120v power. To avoid running cords all over the house, I built a suicide cord with 120v male plug on one side and 220v plug on the other. Wired a 220v plug per manufacturer's instructions, then put 2 hot wires on the same terminal in the 120v plug. Have not used it yet though. I obviously would not be running any 220v appliances. Any comments or concerns? P.S. It's been a few years since I made up the cord, so I do not remember how I wired it exactly. But I did have an electrician look at it at the time and he OKd it. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 7:20:09 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I built a suicide cord with 120v male plug on one side and 220v plug on the other. Any comments or concerns? Quote HistoryQuoted:
I built a suicide cord with 120v male plug on one side and 220v plug on the other. Any comments or concerns? Quoted:
But I did have an electrician look at it at the time and he OKd it. ar-jedi |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 7:32:35 PM EDT
[#28]
I had him look at the wiring to make sure I didn't screw it up. He's a buddy of mine.
Of course I am aware that the main breaker has to be shut off before backfeeding the house. |
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Posted: 9/10/2017 1:50:46 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OH, is this a timed question? Is this a time delayed (slo-blo) fuse? Does it have a open indicator light? times up. Did I win?
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Posted: 9/10/2017 10:11:50 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Slo-blo of fast acting, it does not matter. It won't blow if you install it upside down. It will suck. |
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Posted: 9/14/2017 9:34:55 AM EDT
[#31]
Subscribed.
I have been looking for a similar solution to the generator side. The smaller inverter gens, which are fuel economical, at best only have the TT-30R output. I did find items such as this: Two Hots Bridged and this: Another two hots bridged |
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Posted: 9/14/2017 10:07:35 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Subscribed. I have been looking for a similar solution to the generator side. The smaller inverter gens, which are fuel economical, at best only have the TT-30R output. I did find items such as this: Two Hots Bridged and this: Another two hots bridged You *should* turn off all 240 appliances. I forgot to turn off the oven once, no ill effects. The clock was on, but none of the burners would get hot. |
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Posted: 9/14/2017 10:57:05 AM EDT
[#33]
I used a 50A inlet on the side of the house so I can handle up to a 12kW generator.
I have short adapter pigtails to pair 30A 240VAC and bridged 30A 120VAC so I can connect the smaller generators to this input. I also have a separate 30A inlet on my shop. I can either run things like the shop lights from the main panel through the 100A breaker that feeds the shop, or run the house loads on one or both of the Hondas at the main panel, and throw the interlock on the shop, hookup the 7kW generator to the shop inlet and run everything in the shop, like my 3HP table saw, without affecting the house draws. |
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Posted: 9/15/2017 5:21:52 PM EDT
[#34]
Here's the connection cords and pigtails.
All 10 Gauge/30A. The things on the left are 240VAC the things on the right are 120VAC bridged. Everything is twist lock.  Attached FileThe house has a 50A inlet, the shop has a 30A inlet. I need the adapter for the 240VAC generator to the house inlet, but it plugs directly into the shop. The other adapter on the 240V side is to run the water heater. I spliced in a plug and outlet to the feed to my electric water heater. The water heater consumes about 4800W, I can run it in addition to other small loads with the 7KW generator. I can also connect the 240V generator directly to the water heater with this adapter and run the house loads with one or two of the EU2000s. Since the water heater is 240V only, it has a three prong twist lock, so I needed a 4 prong to 3 prong adapter. There is no neutral connection, just L1, L2 and GND. The other adapters are 30 A and 50A both with L1 and L2 bridged, to run the shop or house with the EU2000s.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:03:38 AM EDT
[#35]
Stumbled on this vid showing the plug with L1 and L2 bridged.
Go to ~5:00  Honda Generator Cordset Upgrade |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 2:45:01 PM EDT
[#36]
I've been following this thread as I am really considering getting (2) Honda EU2000's for home backup use and was trying to find a way to hook them to the house main panel via this inlet:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-30-Amp-Power-Inlet-Box-PB30/202213702 Are there any disadvantages to using a 50 amp inlet instead other than finding adapters (see below)? I don't think I would need more than 7,500 watts than the 30amp box is rated to handle. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-50-Amp-Power-Inlet-Box-PB50/202216493 I have already purchased an interlock kit for my panel, and do not plan on running any 240v circuits in an emergency. The only 240V circuits in my house are my A/C unit and electric dryer (which will be converted to natural gas when it dies). I don't plan on running the A/C in the event of a long term power outage due to having a cool basement all summer and possibly purchasing a smaller window A/C unit. The EU2000's seem like the best solution as far as what my power needs are and fuel consumption. I also plan on getting the tri-fuel conversion and running a natural gas supply to each of them. In the event I wanted to use just 1 EU2000 for power could I use an adapter cable such as this (if I went with the 30amp inlet box) to have power on both legs of the main panel? https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-5-15P-L14-30R-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DL2LCCE When I want to parallel the EU2000's then I could use this adapter cable to have power on both legs of the main? https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-TT30L1430-018-Generator-Connector/dp/B071ZNHG4B?tag=vglnk-c102-20 thanks for your help |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 3:09:30 PM EDT
[#37]
I prefer this style of inlet box, with the lift up lid, rather than the perpendicular to the wall style.
It offers much better rain protection. GE 30A Inlet GE 50A Inlet 
No disadvantage to using a 50A inlet. You would have to use 6 AWG from the inlet to the interlock breaker because of the possibility of hooking up a 50A input to it. Even if your interlock breaker is 50A, the breaker on the generator should protect when running at 30A input. Your 30A to 50A adapter could still be 10AWG because it will only ever see 30A. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 3:17:56 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
In the event I wanted to use just 1 EU2000 for power could I use an adapter cable such as this (if I went with the 30amp inlet box) to have power on both legs of the main panel? https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-5-15P-L14-30R-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DL2LCCE Quote HistoryQuoted:
In the event I wanted to use just 1 EU2000 for power could I use an adapter cable such as this (if I went with the 30amp inlet box) to have power on both legs of the main panel? https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-5-15P-L14-30R-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DL2LCCE You could put that together yourself for about $25. When I want to parallel the EU2000's then I could use this adapter cable to have power on both legs of the main? https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-TT30L1430-018-Generator-Connector/dp/B071ZNHG4B?tag=vglnk-c102-20 thanks for your help Depending on which plug style you're coming out of, that cable may or may not work. Or require an additional adapter. I prefer twist lock to reduce the possibility of things coming unplugged inadvertently. Again, you can construct that same adapter for about $25. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 3:20:55 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been following this thread as I am really considering getting (2) Honda EU2000's for home backup use and was trying to find a way to hook them to the house main panel via this inlet: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-30-Amp-Power-Inlet-Box-PB30/202213702 Are there any disadvantages to using a 50 amp inlet instead other than finding adapters (see below)? I don't think I would need more than 7,500 watts than the 30amp box is rated to handle. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-50-Amp-Power-Inlet-Box-PB50/202216493 I have already purchased an interlock kit for my panel, and do not plan on running any 240v circuits in an emergency. The only 240V circuits in my house are my A/C unit and electric dryer (which will be converted to natural gas when it dies). I don't plan on running the A/C in the event of a long term power outage due to having a cool basement all summer and possibly purchasing a smaller window A/C unit. The EU2000's seem like the best solution as far as what my power needs are and fuel consumption. I also plan on getting the tri-fuel conversion and running a natural gas supply to each of them. In the event I wanted to use just 1 EU2000 for power could I use an adapter cable such as this (if I went with the 30amp inlet box) to have power on both legs of the main panel? https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-5-15P-L14-30R-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DL2LCCE When I want to parallel the EU2000's then I could use this adapter cable to have power on both legs of the main? https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-TT30L1430-018-Generator-Connector/dp/B071ZNHG4B?tag=vglnk-c102-20 thanks for your help |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 3:27:46 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can't believe people pay those kind of prices for cords. 10/3 or 10/4 SOOW is around $1.50 per foot and the connectors are around $10 each. The 50A 250V connectors are a bit spendy because they're harder to find, |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 3:36:49 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The 50A 250V connectors are a bit spendy because they're harder to find, maybe $18-20. 
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Posted: 9/21/2017 3:51:53 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mine were $5 at the farm supply store I mail ordered mine.
ETA Are you using twist lock or the giant dryer/stove connectors? It's been awhile (3 years), these are more expensive than I remember. 50A Twist Lock 
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Posted: 9/21/2017 4:10:31 PM EDT
[#43]
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Posted: 9/21/2017 6:37:10 PM EDT
[#44]
Question if I may.
120v genny to PB-30 30 amp inlet with a bridge plug at the generator cord (planned final install should allow parallel genset or better expansion opportunities). Aside from my issues freeing up space on my load center for the inlet DPDT 30 amp breaker (parts ordered, solution appears likely to be successful [replace that FAT OLD 100 amper on the left with a half size modern one which gives me the 2 slots and modify the load center cover to fit)], I want to ensure I am thinking things through so when I have my electrician over I have the right parts and the plan correct. The replacement 100 amp breaker is suggested by the MFG, Square D; In the following diagram for the PB30 (I believe), the ground is grounded inside the inlet housing, the neutral is fastened within the load center (panel pic included) and then the Line 1 and Line 2 (black) are the terminals on the inlet breaker, is that correct? I have 3 electrical buds that I can select from to do the work, I just want to make sure my parts kit is good. Thanks in advance.
ETA: I need to move a couple breakers around to free the space (2 slots obviously) adjacent to the main so when I get to finalizing the circuit I have an interlock in place. That is the next phase. 
This pic is throwing me off with regards to the ground, do the ground and neutral both go to the load center? In the diagram there is a green, a white, and two blacks. In the pic a red has replaced a black. Do you bond the green ground within the inlet housing and then carry on to the panel as well?
 Attached File |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 9:57:45 PM EDT
[#45]
You have to pull 4 wires from the panel to the inlet.
The ground terminates on the ground bus in the panel, it connects to the pigtail that grounds the metal housing and the ground lug on the plug. The neutral connects to the neutral bus has in the panel as you described. If that is your only panel or the main panel the ground and neutral bus bars will be connected, "bonded". So you may see both grounds and neutrals right next to each other on the same bus bar. Each hot connects to a terminal on the double space breaker as you described. The breaker spaces alternate in the panel, so adjacent spaces are always on alternate legs, so you can get 240V. That being said, the experts here may be able to look at your particular panel and tell you if your plan with swapping and adding breakers will work. |
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:50:34 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you using twist lock or the giant dryer/stove connectors? |
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:56:44 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
50A dryer/stove/welder type plugs. The twist lock types seem more expensive.
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Posted: 9/22/2017 1:03:28 AM EDT
[#48]
Yep...
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Posted: 9/22/2017 10:48:17 AM EDT
[#49]
tag
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Posted: 9/24/2017 3:04:47 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You have to pull 4 wires from the panel to the inlet. The ground terminates on the ground bus in the panel, it connects to the pigtail that grounds the metal housing and the ground lug on the plug. The neutral connects to the neutral bus has in the panel as you described. If that is your only panel or the main panel the ground and neutral bus bars will be connected, "bonded". So you may see both grounds and neutrals right next to each other on the same bus bar. Each hot connects to a terminal on the double space breaker as you described. The breaker spaces alternate in the panel, so adjacent spaces are always on alternate legs, so you can get 240V. That being said, the experts here may be able to look at your particular panel and tell you if your plan with swapping and adding breakers will work. Thanks
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