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Posted: 4/20/2021 7:47:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: KB7DX]
[#1]
Mercruiser part number 805226a1.
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Posted: 4/21/2021 10:41:59 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: Mercruiser part number 805226a1. Thanks. Had to order, none in the state! |
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Posted: 4/29/2021 6:12:26 PM EDT
[#3]
@KB7DX
I can do the reprogram sequence and get the engine to idle like I want. Then, I restart it and it goes right back to 8-900 RPM. Also, I cannot get the TPS voltage down lower than 0.6. The motor doesn't idle as smooth when restarting after the adjustment. It's like the ECM is fighting the new parameter. Any ideas? |
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Posted: 4/29/2021 6:54:45 PM EDT
[#4]
Sounds like the ECM isn't "saving" the altered programming and
reverting back to the factory default programming after the power is cycled to it. I have never re-flashed an ECM (never needed to) so I'm not much help in that area. 
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Posted: 5/4/2021 1:49:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wookie1562]
[#5]
Is this the correct oil pressure sender for engine SN M010708? It's a year~2000ish 5.7L mercruiser. I'm looking at this drawing https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31867/2697/50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P8KXFX6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1FO72J64F0ZET&;psc=1 ETA- and when I go to replace this, is it as simple as it looks? Thread off and thread on? Do I need to be worried about spilling oil or anything? |
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Posted: 5/4/2021 2:16:27 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wookie1562: Is this the correct oil pressure sender for engine SN M010708? It's a year~2000ish 5.7L mercruiser. I'm looking at this drawing https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31867/2697/50 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P8KXFX6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1FO72J64F0ZET&psc=1 ETA- and when I go to replace this, is it as simple as it looks? Thread off and thread on? Do I need to be worried about spilling oil or anything? That is the oil pressure sender for the analog gauge on the dash. It just threads in/out with only a few drops of oil escaping. |
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Posted: 5/4/2021 3:10:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: That is the oil pressure sender for the analog gauge on the dash. It just threads in/out with only a few drops of oil escaping. Next week I hope to start rigging the steering, throttle, and electrical/lighting systems and be ready in a couple weeks |
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Posted: 5/4/2021 4:27:12 PM EDT
[#8]
Would you recommend to replace this thermostat housing? If not, any tricks to remove the thermostat from the housing?
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Posted: 5/4/2021 4:50:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wookie1562]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wookie1562: Would you recommend to replace this thermostat housing? If not, any tricks to remove the thermostat from the housing? x x ETA-- Another question: It looks the port side has a bung for a 2 lead molex-type connector- I am assuming that is for water temp sending. The starboard side has a nipple on the housing, and there was a lead clipped on to it like a spark plug wire. What is that for? |
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Posted: 5/4/2021 5:33:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: KB7DX]
[#10]
The sender with the single threaded stud is for an analog temp gauge. The sensor with
the two pins is for a temp sensor for the ECM to take data from for the Engine Coolant Temp. Yes, that housing is rotted to the point of needing replaced. You will see many examples of sender vs. sensor in marine applications. Senders are analog devices used for analog gauges and sensors provide data for ECM's on fuel injected engines. Boats will typically have both unless they are new enough to use digital data for both ECM input and gauge operation. "Smart Craft" is Mercury/Mercruisers term for a digital compatible system but you still see analog gauges in some boats with Smart Craft. They use what's called an AGI (analog gauge interface) to convert the digital data from the CAN (control area network) bus to an analog signal the analog gauges can use. It's all so confusing at times in the marine industry.  ETA - The thermostat is held in the housing by the white plastic sleeve. Pry out the plastic sleeve and remove the t-stat. Order a new t-stat and sleeve because it will probably break when you remove it. Should replace the sleeve and t-stat anyways with a new housing. |
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Posted: 5/4/2021 5:46:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wookie1562]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: The sender with the single threaded stud is for an analog temp gauge. The sensor with the two pins is for a temp sensor for the ECM to take data from for the Engine Coolant Temp. Yes, that housing is rotted to the point of needing replaced. You will see many examples of sender vs. sensor in marine applications. Senders are analog devices used for analog gauges and sensors provide data for ECM's on fuel injected engines. Boats will typically have both unless they are new enough to use digital data for both ECM input and gauge operation. "Smart Craft" is Mercury/Mercruisers term for a digital compatible system but you still see analog gauges in some boats with Smart Craft. They use what's called an AGI (analog gauge interface) to convert the digital data from the CAN (control area network) bus to an analog signal the analog gauges can use. It's all so confusing at times in the marine industry. ETA - The thermostat is held in the housing by the white plastic sleeve. Pry out the plastic sleeve and remove the t-stat. Order a new t-stat and sleeve because it will probably break when you remove it. Should replace the sleeve and t-stat anyways with a new housing. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I am going to have to do a little more digging into the temp sensor for ECM. I did not think this boat has ECM or fuel injection ETA- wonder if it was fuel injected at some point and swapped for a carb? New parts on the way; thermostat housing, thermostat kit, 4 hoses. I can probably continue putting on the water pump today, it shouldn't be too difficult to route that house with the engine belt installed. |
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Posted: 5/4/2021 8:39:08 PM EDT
[#12]
This is a carburetor.....right? From what I can tell from the diagram, the apparatus on the left is a choke. Not sure if it's automatic or what, it certainly isn't wired into the cabin, but I have yet to chase the wires.
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Posted: 5/4/2021 9:11:59 PM EDT
[#13]
Yes that's a 2 barrel Mercarb. It's similar to the Rochester 2 barrel GM used to use.
The thing on the left is the electric automatic choke. |
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Posted: 5/4/2021 9:17:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wookie1562]
[#14]
Any guesses why it would have water temp sensors?
Is there a reference to the proper procedure to compression test the cylinders? How would I stop the fuel from flowing when cranking to test compression? ETA-disregard. Obviously I am not too experienced with a carb but it occurs to me that during a compression test, no throttle is applied and therefore fuel will not enter the motor. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 5/4/2021 9:34:16 PM EDT
[#15]
OP can I ship a Volvo AQ130 to you to rebuild?
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Posted: 5/5/2021 11:01:32 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wookie1562: Any guesses why it would have water temp sensors? Is there a reference to the proper procedure to compression test the cylinders? How would I stop the fuel from flowing when cranking to test compression? ETA-disregard. Obviously I am not too experienced with a carb but it occurs to me that during a compression test, no throttle is applied and therefore fuel will not enter the motor. Open the throttle wide open when you do a compression test. Fuel will not flow because the engine doesn't create enough vacuum at cranking speed to draw fuel through the carb. Disable the ignition though. Remove the coil wire from the distributor and ground it to the block. |
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Posted: 5/5/2021 6:50:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wookie1562]
[#17]
This is the throttle I removed. It was pretty rotten, I was going to send it off for powdercoat but figured given the condition, it just wasn't worth it. I purchased a new B310B throttle/shifter and am beginning to think about rigging it up. The lower part of the housing as pictured was mounted forward in the boat. Am I correct that the throttle and shifter are configured for "pull" operation? Also the shift cable looks like it is configured with the longer throw for shifting.
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Posted: 5/6/2021 8:26:07 PM EDT
[#18]
The shifter is going to be a push-pull with a center detent for neutral. The throttle cable is a
pull to increase throttle, push for idle in a Mercruiser application. Being that's a Morse control, you have to make sure the throws are correct and will make the cable travel the required distance for shift and throttle. |
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Posted: 5/11/2021 8:54:26 PM EDT
[#19]
I thought I knew where the oil pressure sender was on the block, but it turns out I found an oil pressure switch for the fuel system. Did not realize it was equipped with such a device. It's a little tight around the engine for a large guy like me, is the oil pressure sender located near the oil pressure switch?
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Posted: 5/11/2021 9:28:27 PM EDT
[#20]
Oil pressure sender for the analog gauge is located just
behind the distributor. It has a bell shape to it with one wire on the top. To keep this thread for HELOBRAVO's saga, please feel free to start another thread. I get lonely in here.... 
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Posted: 6/3/2021 5:25:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HELOBRAVO]
[#21]
@kb7dx
Don’t get lonely. My saga continues. So, before I had the ECM reprogrammed, I messed up the timing. Long story short, I payed a mechanic to come by. He timed the motor to 8 degrees. We took it out today, it seems fine until about 2500 RPM. It is absolutely storming here so I will not do the check engine light today. See this video. At the end there’s a sound we can’t identify. I can’t figure if it’s predetonation or what. The fuel is non ethanol, I believe 93 octane. Fresh plugs. Maybe running out of timing? [youtube]shorts/FMojZaSy0r0?feature=share[/youtube] |
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Posted: 6/3/2021 5:58:27 PM EDT
[#22]
@HELOBRAVO
Can't see the video. Does it sound like it's "popping" back through the throttle body above 2500 rpms? Did the mech put the ECM into base timing mode before setting the timing? You have to put the ECM into base timing mode, sometimes called service mode, to set initial timing. This eliminates the built in timing advance in the ECM. If timing was set without putting into base timing mode, you effectively added whatever advance was set by the mech (8* BTDC) to the ECM's built in base timing. This will give it too much timing advance. |
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Posted: 6/4/2021 9:45:01 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: @HELOBRAVO Can't see the video. Does it sound like it's "popping" back through the throttle body above 2500 rpms? No. Sounds high pitch almost like something hitting a belt or pully, but only at higher RPM as noted. Did the mech put the ECM into base timing mode before setting the timing? He did. He out a jumper in the OBD and it put the engine at about 1300 RPM. You have to put the ECM into base timing mode, sometimes called service mode, to set initial timing. This eliminates the built in timing advance in the ECM. If timing was set without putting into base timing mode, you effectively added whatever advance was set by the mech (8* BTDC) to the ECM's built in base timing. This will give it too much timing advance. Thanks. I'll put a light on it this weekend and see if I can replicate the issue in the driveway. The motor runs so good, I am past ready to get this over with. |
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Posted: 6/12/2021 5:33:11 PM EDT
[#24]
@KB7DX
Timing issues. Boat wrench timed it, he left it at 8 BTDC and restarted and verified it. He said he revved it and verified 32-34 degrees. I took it out and got pinging at 2400 RPM. Ran awesome otherwise. The manual says advance should be 28 degrees. I checked timing today with light set on "timing" and it was 35. WTF? Put engine in test/timing/whatever mode and timed it down to 9 degrees with light set on 0/"timing" At regular, no timing mode idle it's at 15 degrees with light on 0. If light is on 28 it is 8-9 degrees and light on 24 it is at 10. Any ideas? |
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Posted: 6/12/2021 9:30:53 PM EDT
[#25]
If your timing light is set at "0" (adjustable light), then you should be reading 8* BTDC on the balancer at idle with the ignition sys
put into base timing mode (service mode). If you set your timing light to 8* advance, you should be reading 0* on the balancer. Works the same no matter what advance you dial into the light or RPM's. Dial in 28* on the light, balancer should read 0* if you are at 28* advance. Somethings funky. Balancer outer ring slipped? Check that it reads 0* when #1 cyl is at TDC to confirm. Firing order correct? IIRC if wiring to cyls 4 and 6 are crossed it will still run OK to an extent but have issues. EFI engines have an uncanny ability to mask some problems. |
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