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Posted: 10/24/2013 10:06:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/29/2013 5:23:40 PM EDT by Rat_Patrol]

'Tis heating season, and this fall has been chilly up here in the frozen north. Many people seem to have questions about the performance and effectiveness and other misc questions about kerosene heaters and appliances. I thought I would share some experience and performance specs on some of our kero heaters.



If you want something specific tested about a device that I have posted about, let me know and I will do my best to get the data. Sorry, no Aladdin lamps/heaters.




Little background: We are on an electric duel-fuel program with our electric company. What this means is that we get our electric heat for about 45% of normal electric rate, in exchange for them shutting our heat off during peak times. As such, we use our kerosene heaters a fair amount. They are not our only source of heat, but could easily keep our house warm for an extended period of time if need be. Our first peak shutdown was last night for about 5 hours.



To get things rolling, some constants:





  • I use pure, clear K1 kero from a pump in town. I don't use the pre-bottled kero. I don't add any additives/snake oils/mineral spirits or anything else.

  • Kero goes through a Mr Funnel before going into the heater.

  • Kero is stored outside in 55 gallon barrels. Barrels are sealed.

  • Current batch of Kero is about 1 year old.


We run the following models of kerosene appliances: Perfection 630, Kero-Sun Radiant 10, Kero-Sun Director, multiple oil lamps, 16 wick kerosene cooking burner.




Ok, the first heater I have running this year is our vintage Perfection 630.

This is a vintage, brass tank convection (convection means it heats the air) heater. Brass just means it is pre world war. This one has been cleaned, but I did not restore it yet. Original enamel on it!

These are "smokeless", and work quite well. They have very small amounts start-up smoke. You have about 5 seconds of smoke at start-up. They are non-catalytic and have basically NO safety features. These type of heaters use a cotton wick, so you cannot burn them down. I always keep the tank full, so I don't know how long a tank will go. This model holds about 3 quarts of kero. I will try to keep track of burn time next time I run it for more than an hour. Right now, it is 40 degrees outside, and It is keeping the living room very toasty. These are slightly adjustable for heat output. More than a catalytic device, but not much adjustability.

</img />

















Pic added above of "boiling" water. 2 quart pan with 1 quart water. After 20 minutes, I got this. Hour later: same thing. Boiling? Technically, but barely. Note: Pot was covered until photo taken.



As far as cooking on top of it, it can be done. Well, sort of. My wife has been able to put the cast iron fry pan (again, very vintage ) up there and fry a full meal of pork chops, turkey wild rice soup and popcorn.

Speed was slow but effective. It worked.

I put a tea pot on top of it with 6 cups of room temp water in it to see if I could get a boil. After about 20 minutes, I had a good simmer. After 30 minutes, I had a good stream of steam coming out of the whistler, but I never did get a rolling boil sufficient to cook noodles, nor did the tea pot ever whistle.



We use this heater the most because of the low amounts of smoke on startup and shutdown. It is no problem to use it for 20 minutes, and then turn it off. Since you don't have the catalytic chamber to heat up and cool down, it is great for short "bursts" of heat.







Next, I will get out my Kero-Sun Radiant 10 and post some pics on that, and see if I can roast a marshmallow in front of it!





OK. Heat off again tonight, so I fired up the Radiant 10.





Specs: Rated at 9,600 BTUs. Fuel capacity of 1.92 gallons.





This is a catalytic radiant unit (had a catalytic chamber and heats through radiant energy, which means it heats objects and not the air). I estimate this particular unit of 70's vintage. This was an auction score, getting 2 units for 25 cents! This unit has been cleaned, new wick for this year and polished the reflector. These have a jarring safety device. If you drop the unit, it will snap a shutter over the wick, smothering the flame. They have an electric ignition that runs on 2 D batteries, but I never use it in favor of a match. These have a "safety grill", but that in itself gets very hot. These units have basically no adjustment, and are on or off. They also require more tinkering to get/keep the flame perfect. The plus side is that they are EXTREMELY efficient, burning VERY cleanly. Also, since they heat objects and not the air, YOU feel warm MUCH faster. I do start/stop these in the porch, which I DO NOT recommend for safety reasons . (Safety note: You should NEVER move/fuel an operating or hot kerosene heater. Please read and understand all safety warnings.) These units have a fiberglass wick, and REQUIRE periodic burn downs to keep it clean and operating efficiently. These units take about 10-15 minutes to warm up to operating temperature. As such, I don't run them unless I plan on it running at least an hour or two. I favor these on windy nights when the electric heat is off for several hours. (wind blows right through our old windows). Photo taken at night for maximum visibility of catalytic chamber action.














</img />



Pros: Very efficient. Clean burning. Wonderful heat, and zero operation smell. Heats you up quickly, and doesn't "waste" heat by trying to heat the air, and then you. Large fuel tank, and directional heat. Externally visible fuel gauge.



Cons: Considerably more smoke at startup (although I have been able to minimize this by dropping the wick lower and slowly raising it as the cat chamber heats up), which prompts me to start/stop out of the main living area. They also require more tinkering to obtain/maintain a good burn. Replacing the wick requires more precision.















No marshmallows in the house right now, so I will have to test that out later. Cooking on this unit: Maybe warm up a can of bean/soup, etc. No meaningful cooking can really be done on this type of heater.



























Next we have the Kero-Sun Director.





Specs: Rated at 11,700 BTU. Tank capacity of 1.99 gallons.





This is a radiant catalytic unit of extremely similar design to the Radiant 10.





This heater has 3 main feature differences to the Radiant 10: The safety is a "level" safety. If the unit is far enough off level or is jolted, it snuffs out the flame. The heater is obviously bigger, and you can swivel the top cabinet to "aim" the heat w/o moving the base. The last feature actually works quite well.



























This unit was a garage sale find by my wife. They sold it as "broken", simply needing a cleaning and a new wick. They must have ran it a while with the bad wick, because I could measure the soot in INCHES!!! 1.5 hours of cleaning and a wick later, it is running beautifully. I actually just got this heater this summer, and this is the first firing since repair. It still needs to be detailed, but I wanted to run it today. I put some batteries in this heater for the igniter, and I can say the igniter works very well.
















It may just be the extremely clean catalytic chamber, but there seemed to be very little start-up fumes compared to my 10.  The 10 may be due for a good cleaning...
















Fueling this unit was easier than the 10, with better access to the filler plug when the cabinet is turned to the left.
















Since it is best to size the heater for the job, this unit will serve to heat the house when the heat is off on extremely cold/windy nights. After running it for 20 minutes today (40* outside), I had to turn it off and open the window to cool it off in the living room!
















Something of note: since the fuel capacity is virtually the same and this produces more heat, it will need to be re-fueled more often than the 10.
















Another tool in the box






































<Space reserved for the Butterfly 16 wick stove burner!>



























**If anyone wants any info on these, let me know I can even make some videos of dis-assembly and cleaning if there is a demand for it.**



























What to take away from this:





I consider kerosene to be the ideal emergency fuel. It is safe, high BTU/gallon, stable, stores well, provides light and heat. You don't need special pressure fittings and pressure vessels to use and transport, and you can transfer kerosene from virtually any container to another container in a pinch. The wick technology is as KISS as it gets, and it is nothing to have a 40+ year old appliance that works as well as it did new. Parts are cheap and they are easy to work on. (Don't think I hate propane or anything. It has its place, but I think kero is superior for emergency heating)





There are MANY options for kerosene powered appliances. From antique to new. These are what I use because they can be obtained cheap (although we paid for the Perfection, but we wanted that as an antique as much as a functional heater) and work well. With a small amount of practice, you can spot what is wrong with heaters and know if they are worth fixing or not and get some GREAT deals for an emergency heat source. A lot of people don't like to "mess" with kerosene anymore, in favor of "easier" propane. I think this allows for a lot of kero appliances to go for cheap in the auction/Craigslist type markets. Heat is such a basic, but mandatory need in most of the USA, and there is little excuse to not have SOMETHING to provide emergency heat. It can literally be the difference between life and death.

 
 
 

 
 


 



 
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 1:44:57 PM EDT
Very nice!  I love seeing antiques still in use.  We have a 30's vintage Singer sewing machine that I need to get running again, as well as a similar aged white gas iron that I'm sure would fire right up.   Heck we even have a Victrola and some 78 records that still works for entertainment!

Looking forward to more posts of heaters.

TriumphRider
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 2:09:05 PM EDT
In regards to not running the Perfection full throttle, I'm heating a smaller room and cook myself out in about an hour. I would prefer not to do the on/off thing.
How much can these be dialed back, and what would be the consequences of going down too far.
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 2:29:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/24/2013 2:32:40 PM EDT by Rat_Patrol]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By thezman:



In regards to not running the Perfection full throttle, I'm heating a smaller room and cook myself out in about an hour. I would prefer not to do the on/off thing.


How much can these be dialed back, and what would be the consequences of going down too far.
View Quote
You can dial them back a bit. If you go too low, in my experience you don't get as great of a draft effect and it doesn't burn as clean. This may change when adding mineral spirits or the pre-blended bottled kero, but for 100% kero, I don't like to go down past 50%.


 



ETA: sizing the heater is better than trying to "throttle" them. That said, I would definitely be looking for a non-catalytic type heater. They "throttle" better than catalytic type. Catalytic types are basically on/off.
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 2:30:33 PM EDT
With my instructions to not let the heater run out of kero, I just ran my perfection out of kero.



OOPS!
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 3:10:11 PM EDT
I have two Perfections, a 530 and a FireLight. I also have swirled plaster ceilings, so I can't take any chances with one of these going south on me and turning into soot factory if I turn it back too far. I guess I'll experiment in the garage until I get some more experience with them. Back to the modern propane fireplace for now. Damn it....
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 3:14:45 PM EDT
This thread has the Batman seal of approval.
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 5:07:27 PM EDT
Update with the Radiant 10 in OP.



Enjoy.




Note: I am not putting heater specifics in here as that is easily obtainable on the web. If you would like a source for parts and original manuals and technical info on these heaters, I urge you to visit MilesStair's Wich Shop.




If you have questions, PLEASE ask them.
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 7:37:18 PM EDT
the KeroSun looks like the one I had off base when I was stationed in Japan 1971, so your time line is pretty close
Link Posted: 10/24/2013 8:20:36 PM EDT
I'm afraid I can't offer much about vintage heaters, but I would heartily recommend the Sengoku CTN-110 radiant heater.
It's a 10k btu radiant heater that uses about 1 gallon of kerosene every 10 to 12 hours.
Unlike the older radiant designs, this uses a more narrow, but taller chimney / catalytic unit.
This newer design seems to be a much cleaner burning unit.

I got mine last year.
I had to tear the thing down, and reset the wick to it's proper position in the wick holder, as I could not adjust the flame down far enough to get a clean burn.
The wick was installed too high from the factory.

The CTN-110 also has an annoying fuel canister safety, that automatically shuts the unit down when the fuel tank is removed.
This was easily bypassed by removing one spring during its disassembly.

This heater is not easy to light with a match or lighter, in case the igniter / batteries die.
The igniter uses x4 C cell batteries.
Why they couldn't use x2 of the more common D cells, I don't know.

I called their customer service line once, and my experience was abysmal.

I would still recommend this heater.
The design is gold, but you may have to reset the wick.
The fuel canister safety is aggravating as hell, but is easily defeated.


Link Posted: 10/25/2013 3:27:41 PM EDT
Nice, thanks. I got my catalytic radiant Corona and love it. I'm trying to score an Aladdin but they keep outbidding me on ebay. A guy paid nearly 300 USD for an Aladdin 37 a few days ago!
If I do get one I'll post a review.
FerFAL
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 3:59:17 PM EDT
So everyone knows, I will be at the cabin for the weekend. If anyone has any questions for me, go ahead and post them, and I WILL get back to you next week.



Otherwise, lets keep this going. I'm sure we can get lots of good information here!
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 4:30:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/25/2013 5:11:35 PM EDT by EXPY37]
Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
'Tis heating season, and this fall has been chilly up here in the frozen north. Many people seem to have questions about the performance and effectiveness and other misc questions about kerosene heaters and appliances. I thought I would share some experience and performance specs on some of our kero heaters.

If you want something specific tested about a device that I have posted about, let me know and I will do my best to get the data. Sorry, no Aladdin lamps/heaters.


Little background: We are on an electric duel-fuel program with our electric company. What this means is that we get our electric heat for about 45% of normal electric rate, in exchange for them shutting our heat off during peak times. As such, we use our kerosene heaters a fair amount. They are not our only source of heat, but could easily keep our house warm for an extended period of time if need be. Our first peak shutdown was last night for about 5 hours.

To get things rolling, some constants:

  • I use pure, clear K1 kero from a pump in town. I don't use the pre-bottled kero. I don't add any additives/snake oils/mineral spirits or anything else.
  • Kero goes through a Mr Funnel before going into the heater.
  • Kero is stored outside in 55 gallon barrels. Barrels are sealed.
  • Current batch of Kero is about 1 year old.
We run the following models of kerosene appliances: Perfection 630, Kero-Sun Radiant 10, Kero-Sun Director, multiple oil lamps, 16 wick kerosene cooking burner.


Ok, the first heater I have running this year is our vintage Perfection 630.
This is a vintage, brass tank convection (convection means it heats the air) heater. Brass just means it is pre world war. This one has been cleaned, but I did not restore it yet. Original enamel on it!
These are "smokeless", and work quite well. They have very small amounts start-up smoke. You have about 5 seconds of smoke at start-up. They are non-catalytic and have basically NO safety features. These type of heaters use a cotton wick, so you cannot burn them down. I always keep the tank full, so I don't know how long a tank will go. This model holds about 3 quarts of kero. I will try to keep track of burn time next time I run it for more than an hour. Right now, it is 40 degrees outside, and It is keeping the living room very toasty. These are slightly adjustable for heat output. More than a catalytic device, but not much adjustability.
http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad171/MN_Rat/NCM_0027_zps53704d89.jpg</img />

[div style='margin-left: 40px;']As far as cooking on top of it, it can be done. Well, sort of. My wife has been able to put the cast iron fry pan (again, very vintage ) up there and fry a full meal of pork chops, turkey wild rice soup and popcorn.
Speed was slow but effective. It worked.
I put a tea pot on top of it with 6 cups of room temp water in it to see if I could get a boil. After about 20 minutes, I had a good simmer. After 30 minutes, I had a good stream of steam coming out of the whistler, but I never did get a rolling boil sufficient to cook noodles, nor did the tea pot ever whistle.

We use this heater the most because of the low amounts of smoke on startup and shutdown. It is no problem to use it for 20 minutes, and then turn it off. Since you don't have the catalytic chamber to heat up and cool down, it is great for short "bursts" of heat.



Next, I will get out my Kero-Sun Radiant 10 and post some pics on that, and see if I can roast a marshmallow in front of it!


OK. Heat off again tonight, so I fired up the Radiant 10. This is a catalytic radiant unit (had a catalytic chamber and heats through radiant energy, which means it heats objects and not the air). I estimate this particular unit of 70's vintage. This was an auction score, getting 2 units for 25 cents! This unit has been cleaned, new wick for this year and polished the reflector. These have a jarring safety device. If you drop the unit, it will snap a shutter over the wick, smothering the flame. They have an electric ignition that runs on 2 D batteries, but I never use it in favor of a match. These have a "safety grill", but that in itself gets very hot. These units have basically no adjustment, and are on or off. They also require more tinkering to get/keep the flame perfect. The plus side is that they are EXTREMELY efficient, burning VERY cleanly. Also, since they heat objects and not the air, YOU feel warm MUCH faster. I do start/stop these in the porch, which I DO NOT recommend for safety reasons . (Safety note: You should NEVER move/fuel an operating or hot kerosene heater. Please read and understand all safety warnings.) These units have a fiberglass wick, and REQUIRE periodic burn downs to keep it clean and operating efficiently. These units take about 10-15 minutes to warm up to operating temperature. As such, I don't run them unless I plan on it running at least an hour or two. I favor these on windy nights when the electric heat is off for several hours. (wind blows right through our old windows). Photo taken at night for maximum visibility of catalytic chamber action.

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad171/MN_Rat/NCM_0028_zps1f297b18.jpg</img />


Pros: Very efficient. Clean burning. Wonderful heat, and zero operation smell. Heats you up quickly, and doesn't "waste" heat by trying to heat the air, and then you. Large fuel tank, and directional heat. Externally visible fuel gauge.

Cons: Considerably more smoke at startup (although I have been able to minimize this by dropping the wick lower and slowly raising it as the cat chamber heats up), which prompts me to start/stop out of the main living area. They also require more tinkering to obtain/maintain a good burn. Replacing the wick requires more precision.

No marshmallows in the house right now, so I will have to test that out later. Cooking on this unit: Maybe warm up a can of bean/soup, etc. No meaningful cooking can really be done on this type of heater.


           
View Quote




Picked up several of the 2nd pix KeroSun heaters here and there several years ago [I yearly post a PSA here for folks to check ebay for super deals on top quality heaters] and they cost in the $40 to 50 range.

We use the Radiant 10 in the barn when we're working on stuff and its cold. Also in the room wb built but have upgraded to the Toyotomi Laser 30 [same mfgr as KeroSun]

Also some of the KeroSun 9000 BTU tower heaters, same thing.

And some KeroSun/Toyotomi kerosene nickel plated cookers, that in a pinch in a medium room could double as a heater. Excellent cook stove and has some sort of catalytic device.


But 2 for 25 cents, you should be ashamed...  

Here's a pix the install of the vented Laser 30 [the room it's in is TIGHT and highly insulated even to the extent of steel hat channel horizontally on the outside steel studs to thermally break the sheet rock from the studs].

A Radient 10 is keeping things warm while I'm installing the Laser 30. I used steel conduit after about a foot of 1 1/2 inch copper and some electrical conduit fitting to run the exhaust about 20' thru the wall of the room and barn.

The last half of the exhaust is in PVC joined with Ferncos to make everything highly serviceable. The exhaust goes coaxially [just coaxially thru the exterior barn wall] inside the intake pipe that's also PVC and back into the room via an approx. 20' run.






The complicated looking thru the wall intake and exhaust system that comes with the heater is in the foreground. I didn't use it because it wasn't adaptable to my application.

Sitting next to the Laser and the room is warm. It has a remoteable thermostat and a microcontroller to do all the safety checks, start, stop, etc.

The solar system runs it. A 5 gallon can of kero is on the other side of the wall and elevated to feed the heater. I haven't figured out the final solution to the oil supply for the heater. So the can is temporary.





Link Posted: 10/25/2013 5:01:17 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EXPY37:





But 2 for 25 cents, you should be ashamed...
View Quote




 



One of my all time best auction scores. I paid a little more for the Director: $8




Deal hunter, and so is the wife. She actually found the Director for me.
Link Posted: 10/25/2013 5:12:16 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:

 

One of my all time best auction scores. I paid a little more for the Director: $8

Deal hunter, and so is the wife. She actually found the Director for me.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
Originally Posted By EXPY37:


But 2 for 25 cents, you should be ashamed...





 

One of my all time best auction scores. I paid a little more for the Director: $8

Deal hunter, and so is the wife. She actually found the Director for me.




That's amazing especially for MN.

Link Posted: 10/25/2013 5:17:09 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EXPY37:
That's amazing especially for MN.



View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EXPY37:



Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:


Originally Posted By EXPY37:





But 2 for 25 cents, you should be ashamed...


 



One of my all time best auction scores. I paid a little more for the Director: $8



Deal hunter, and so is the wife. She actually found the Director for me.


That's amazing especially for MN.



Nobody uses kero around here. Its all propane and NG. Deals can be found, but average is still around $25. Just not the right people on the 'auction for the Radiant 10's, and she found the director at a garage sale. They said it was "broken", and almost threw it out. It was "broken", it needed a new wick and a good cleaning

 



Had to pay up for the Perfection, though. That one ran us $30 IIRC.
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 2:00:55 PM EDT
So, who here has experience with kerosene cook stoves like the various
Butterfly units, or Alpaca? I have some coleman dual fuel types. I also have a
propane grill, and a few burners also. I'd like something that uses
Kerosene to give us more options as far as fuel goes.
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 3:42:17 PM EDT
Is there any way to heat with Kero in a device that doesn't utilize any consumables? No Wick, mantles, etc or do they all need that?
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 3:47:44 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By rsqhobbs:


So, who here has experience with kerosene cook stoves like the various

Butterfly units, or Alpaca? I have some coleman dual fuel types. I also have a

propane grill, and a few burners also. I'd like something that uses

Kerosene to give us more options as far as fuel goes.
View Quote
I do have a butterfly cook stove, 16 wick. I just got it last year, and don't have tons-o-hours on it yet. Will be getting to that one on here as well with pics, boil time, etc.

 
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 3:49:46 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By robpiat:


Is there any way to heat with Kero in a device that doesn't utilize any consumables? No Wick, mantles, etc or do they all need that?
View Quote
I do believe there were some stoves that utilized a "drip" system utilizing specific gravity flow control. We have one for fuel oil. Massive amounts of soot, very in-efficient, big, bulky, etc. Nothing good about it. It also requires the same type of stack venting as a wood furnace. We don't use it at all.

 
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 4:21:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/28/2013 8:28:59 AM EDT by ProfGAB101]
I scored a Radiant 10  8 as part of helping a co-worker move.

It was sitting in his enclosed front porch and he was packing up for a lateral transfer within the company to Sacramento CA.

He told me to pitch it in the pull off dumpster, I ask if it worked and he said all it needed was a fill up and fresh batts. It went home with me along with alot of other new in box stuff he was going to send to the land fill.
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 5:16:19 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
I do have a butterfly cook stove, 16 wick. I just got it last year, and don't have tons-o-hours on it yet. Will be getting to that one on here as well with pics, boil time, etc.  
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
Originally Posted By rsqhobbs:
So, who here has experience with kerosene cook stoves like the various
Butterfly units, or Alpaca? I have some coleman dual fuel types. I also have a
propane grill, and a few burners also. I'd like something that uses
Kerosene to give us more options as far as fuel goes.
I do have a butterfly cook stove, 16 wick. I just got it last year, and don't have tons-o-hours on it yet. Will be getting to that one on here as well with pics, boil time, etc.  


The 16 wick butterfly is one I was considering. I look forward to your
review.
Link Posted: 10/26/2013 6:28:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/26/2013 8:57:07 PM EDT by EXPY37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By rsqhobbs:
So, who here has experience with kerosene cook stoves like the various
Butterfly units, or Alpaca? I have some coleman dual fuel types. I also have a
propane grill, and a few burners also. I'd like something that uses
Kerosene to give us more options as far as fuel goes.
View Quote



We occasionally use a KeroSun/Toyotomi cook stove /cooker and my SO likes it. It's the Model K.  [Have no idea how that picked that model number]  

Very nice unit, probably the best [but hard to find] as the site below rates it as such and I agree.  Be sure to check out the site for a lot of info. We find them on auctions like ebay and two we bought at low prices are new in the box.

I figger they will make a nice cooker for in a tent and a heater for it as well.  Kerosene is the lightest and most concentrated fuel, BTU wise that you can get.

Or they will make a valuable trading item and no one will shoot it back at us.

Variable heat, 4000 to abt 7000 BTU IIRC. Lay a piece of steel on it and it's a heater.





http://www.solarseller.com/emergency_and_disaster_preparedness_resources.htm






Link Posted: 10/26/2013 6:30:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/26/2013 6:35:26 PM EDT by EXPY37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By robpiat:
Is there any way to heat with Kero in a device that doesn't utilize any consumables? No Wick, mantles, etc or do they all need that?
View Quote




See the Toyotomi Laser 30 a couple posts up.

They make a series of them and the 30 is the smallest.

They run and run and do require a little AC to run the fan. Inverter is fine and a solar generator.  


Link Posted: 10/26/2013 6:43:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/26/2013 8:55:52 PM EDT by EXPY37]
Still another kero heater...  

I used to get these on ebay and took my time and cherry picked nice ones at good prices. Prices may have gone up a bit ---but heck, everybuddy makes more $$$ since we elected Obama, so no big deal, right???

Thought so!

9000 BTU






Link Posted: 10/26/2013 6:47:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/26/2013 8:56:05 PM EDT by EXPY37]
Something most don't know, is the...

KeroSun OMNI 15  -is the same inside as the Moonlighter.

IIRC.

9000 BTU




Link Posted: 10/26/2013 6:50:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/26/2013 6:58:53 PM EDT by EXPY37]
Here's a link to Toyotomi/KeroSun's heater manual resource.


All PDF's so you can save them on your I-Thing.


Heater Manuals



BTW, just looked on ebay completed auctions and prices for KeroSun products are still generally very good.

Of course, this is going into the worse time to make a purchase like this.


Link Posted: 10/28/2013 6:50:23 AM EDT
The next few days will be raining, so no outside projects will get done.



If there are any specific tests anyone would like done, please let me know.




I will be messing with the stove burner top within the next couple days.
Link Posted: 10/28/2013 8:28:19 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By ProfGAB101:
I scored a Radiant 10 as part of helping a co-worker move.

It was sitting in his enclosed front porch and he was packing up for a lateral transfer within the company to Sacramento CA.

He told me to pitch it in the pull off dumpster, I ask if it worked and he said all it needed was a fill up and fresh batts. It went home with me along with alot of other new in box stuff he was going to send to the land fill.
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I was digging in the garage most of sunday afternoon, moving lawn equip to winter storage and breaking out the heaters etc. and I noticed my unit is actually a Radiant 8.

Going to hit Kmart tonite and grab 2 blue 5gal Kero cans ( plastic junk nowdays ) ( good steel cans are priced like they were made by the UAW!)

Nobody around here sells Kero in 25/35/55gal drums it seems. :(  I get clear K-1 from the pump at a local Petrol company - but the don't offer any container options - only BYO.
Link Posted: 10/28/2013 8:44:51 AM EDT

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Originally Posted By ProfGAB101:





Nobody around here sells Kero in 25/35/55gal drums it seems. :(  I get clear K-1 from the pump at a local Petrol company - but the don't offer any container options - only BYO.
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Would be nice to get kero in sealed 55 gallon drums from the refinery. Don't have to worry about transport and storage conditions out of your control
Link Posted: 10/28/2013 8:50:13 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
The next few days will be raining, so no outside projects will get done.

If there are any specific tests anyone would like done, please let me know.

I will be messing with the stove burner top within the next couple days.
View Quote


The top of my perfection heater boiled water easily last night. I wasn't watching it because I was doing other things so I don't have details. Pretty obvious we could cook with it. I'll try to add details when I have time.
Link Posted: 10/28/2013 9:55:29 AM EDT

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Originally Posted By batmanacw:
The top of my perfection heater boiled water easily last night. I wasn't watching it because I was doing other things so I don't have details. Pretty obvious we could cook with it. I'll try to add details when I have time.
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Originally Posted By batmanacw:



Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:

The next few days will be raining, so no outside projects will get done.



If there are any specific tests anyone would like done, please let me know.



I will be messing with the stove burner top within the next couple days.





The top of my perfection heater boiled water easily last night. I wasn't watching it because I was doing other things so I don't have details. Pretty obvious we could cook with it. I'll try to add details when I have time.
Details would be great! I never could get a rolling boil going on ours. It would simmer and steam, but no rolling boil. Enough to make water safe, but not enough to cook noodles.

 



What are you using for fuel?
Link Posted: 10/28/2013 10:38:47 AM EDT
I posted this in one of the other kero threads. Thought I'd repost in here.

Originally Posted By thezman:
I put a mercury oven thermometer on top of my 530 black and nickel heater and it registered 360 degrees.
Then I put an empty # 5 cast iron pan on top and it got to 410 degrees, measured with a point and shoot laser thermometer.
Smelling my pan cook made me hungry.
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Link Posted: 10/28/2013 1:39:38 PM EDT

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Originally Posted By thezman:


I posted this in one of the other kero threads. Thought I'd repost in here.






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Originally Posted By thezman:


I posted this in one of the other kero threads. Thought I'd repost in here.




Originally Posted By thezman:

I put a mercury oven thermometer on top of my 530 black and nickel heater and it registered 360 degrees.

Then I put an empty # 5 cast iron pan on top and it got to 410 degrees, measured with a point and shoot laser thermometer.

Smelling my pan cook made me hungry.


What is the heat recovery like with your heater?

 
Link Posted: 10/28/2013 2:00:54 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
What is the heat recovery like with your heater?  
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Help me out..
Ask the same question, but word it differently. I'm not sure what you're asking.

Thanks


Link Posted: 10/28/2013 2:08:44 PM EDT

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Originally Posted By thezman:
Help me out..

Ask the same question, but word it differently. I'm not sure what you're asking.



Thanks





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Originally Posted By thezman:



Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:

What is the heat recovery like with your heater?  




Help me out..

Ask the same question, but word it differently. I'm not sure what you're asking.



Thanks





Well, you have gotten your pan to 400 ish degrees. When you throw a pork chop on that pan, the pork chop absorbs heat from the pan, lowering the temperature. The amount of BTUs that is effectively getting to the pan is what I am after (although I don't expect a number), but how fast does the pan/chop get back to 400 ish degrees?

 
Link Posted: 10/28/2013 2:13:55 PM EDT
Ok, I follow you now.
Can't answer that though, as no pork was harmed in the testing of my heater.

It was more of a dry run to get a ballpark figure on what temps would register.

Link Posted: 10/29/2013 2:03:39 PM EDT
Update #2 in OP. Also added BTU and tank capacity of both Kero-Sun heaters.
Link Posted: 10/29/2013 3:56:49 PM EDT
Great update Rat_Patrol, thanks.
One thing worth mentioning is to remember to burn your wick dry when you have fiberglass wicks, maybe every 3 or 4 refills. I started to smell a bit of kerosene last time I used my Corona. Burning the wick fixed that right away. You just take way the tank in models that allow you to do so or just keep using it until it simply runs out of fuel and burns the residue on the wick. This can be a bit smelly/smoky so its better to take it outside.
FerFAL
Link Posted: 10/29/2013 4:30:10 PM EDT

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Originally Posted By ferfal308:


Great update Rat_Patrol, thanks.

One thing worth mentioning is to remember to burn your wick dry when you have fiberglass wicks, maybe every 3 or 4 refills. I started to smell a bit of kerosene last time I used my Corona. Burning the wick fixed that right away. You just take way the tank in models that allow you to do so or just keep using it until it simply runs out of fuel and burns the residue on the wick. This can be a bit smelly/smoky so its better to take it outside.

FerFAL
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Good point. That info got buried in the radiant 10 somewhere. I should probably reformat to get points like that more clear.

 
Link Posted: 10/29/2013 4:46:30 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
Good point. That info got buried in the radiant 10 somewhere. I should probably reformat to get points like that more clear.  
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol:
Originally Posted By ferfal308:
Great update Rat_Patrol, thanks.
One thing worth mentioning is to remember to burn your wick dry when you have fiberglass wicks, maybe every 3 or 4 refills. I started to smell a bit of kerosene last time I used my Corona. Burning the wick fixed that right away. You just take way the tank in models that allow you to do so or just keep using it until it simply runs out of fuel and burns the residue on the wick. This can be a bit smelly/smoky so its better to take it outside.
FerFAL
Good point. That info got buried in the radiant 10 somewhere. I should probably reformat to get points like that more clear.  


I did a PSA too trying to encourage folks to do that as well.
Link Posted: 10/29/2013 5:15:18 PM EDT
New pic of the Perfection attempting to boil water in the OP.



Spoiler: A little underwhelming....
Link Posted: 12/21/2013 3:13:52 PM EDT
Bump...
Link Posted: 12/21/2013 5:46:23 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Still another kero heater...  

I used to get these on ebay and took my time and cherry picked nice ones at good prices. Prices may have gone up a bit ---but heck, everybuddy makes more $$$ since we elected Obama, so no big deal, right???

Thought so!

9000 BTU


http://s3.amazonaws.com/FreeClassifieds/22499/200/2012-2-23/4995506_0.jpg
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About $190 used on Flea bay right now.
Link Posted: 12/21/2013 7:10:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/21/2013 7:11:27 PM EDT by EXPY37]
That one is new in the box IIRC.

Kerosun stove


Worth every penny, though you can find them for half that sometimes less.

One just sold for abt $80, and this isn't the best time of year to get good prices.

Link Posted: 1/8/2014 7:45:10 AM EDT
Shameless Bump
Link Posted: 1/8/2014 9:57:45 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Still another kero heater...  

I used to get these on ebay and took my time and cherry picked nice ones at good prices. Prices may have gone up a bit ---but heck, everybuddy makes more $$$ since we elected Obama, so no big deal, right???

Thought so!

9000 BTU


http://s3.amazonaws.com/FreeClassifieds/22499/200/2012-2-23/4995506_0.jpg



View Quote


That's the model I had back I the 1970s! In fact, I had 2. There was a large base they locked into to catch spills and prevent tip-overs.

They got me through the other worst president, Carter!

I don't remember whatever happened to them, but that glass let you see a bright, beautiful and very warm flame. Really great memories of them.
Link Posted: 1/8/2014 11:10:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/8/2014 11:11:12 AM EDT by Centuryhouse]
I picked up two units that are nearly identical (one of them is pictured below) for cheap at a few estate sales. I've purchased a new wick for one of them and need to get a few more, but I haven't used these heaters yet.

I cleaned them as best I could and they look good cosmetically. What do I need to do before lighting these up and using them? Any hints on installing a wick?


Link Posted: 1/8/2014 3:47:48 PM EDT
Centuryhouse, I would first make sure that the lowering / raising mechanism is working properly.
You want to make sure the mechanism will raise and lower the wick, as designed.
This part of the heater also extinguishes the fire on command, or in the event of a tip over.
Raise the wick, and tip the thing over, just to make sure the safety works.

I would also make sure the fuel tank is free of any old fuel.
This residual fuel may be contaminated with water, and water contaminating your wick is bad news.
The old fuel may also be oxidized and nasty.

You can put in some batteries, and make sure your igniter works.
If it does not, you could replace it if you wish.
A kitchen match, or "stick" lighter works just as well, IMHO.

As far as wick replacement goes, you could probably google your model number and find an online manual.
If you can't find a manual, just tear into it.
These things aren't usually THAT complicated.

Good luck!
Link Posted: 1/8/2014 4:22:43 PM EDT
Some very nice/new Kero Sun heaters on ebay now...

Link Posted: 1/8/2014 4:27:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/8/2014 4:28:50 PM EDT by EXPY37]
BTW, I don't understand the comments on various kerosene heater threads about the difficulty in using the on board battery ignition system.

As long as the user understands how they work, are adjusted correctly, they are a HUGE convenience to getting a heater lit.

If anyone is having trouble getting theirs to work properly, please describe the issues, maybe we all can help.




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