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Posted: 10/7/2010 6:43:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/4/2011 10:10:09 PM EDT by MateFrio]
First time posting a project of mine. I wanted to get not only a small garden going in my residential backyard but also a source of meat. Rabbits are a great source of meat so after much study I've embarked on the mission to home grow some rabbits. I'll update progress here as I go along.

Goals
Learn how to raise livestock in a small backyard.
100 lbs of meat per doe per year or 400lbs of meat a year for all four does.
3.5 year duration
Starts with some study and a dream sketch free hand.



Next some scale drawings and an idea of supplies.




Link Posted: 10/7/2010 6:43:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/7/2010 6:53:16 PM EDT by MateFrio]
Some Money Spent

Part Price Quantity Cost
30x108 G.A.W Cages $118.00 2 $236.00
5" Finex Widemouth Feeder $4.75 1 $4.75
9” Finex Widemouth Feeder $4.90 5 $24.50
Float Tank $39.95 1 $39.95
Valves $3.99 7 $27.93
Valve Clips $0.51 6 $3.06
T Valves $0.53 4 $2.12
Standoffs $0.64 8 $5.12
Tubing $0.25 50 $12.50
Flush Valves $3.90 3 $11.70
Cage Pads $2.90 6 $17.40
Nest Boxes $13.60 3 $40.80














Total $425.83

Link Posted: 10/7/2010 6:44:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/7/2010 9:36:58 PM EDT by MateFrio]
Some Research Done

Books
Storey's Guide To Raising Rabbits 4th Ed by Bob Bennett
Raising Rabbits by Ann Kanable
Raising Better Rabbits & Cavies by arba.net

Videos

Web Sites
Link Posted: 10/7/2010 6:59:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/25/2010 10:12:39 AM EDT by MateFrio]
Some Decisions Made\Notes Taken\Risks


Decisions Made

Breed Selection: Californians
Pros- Very common and locally available here in the Houston area and already breed to tolerate heat. Proven meat breeders. Tons of knowledgeable breeders close by.
Cons- Large rabbit, larger cages needed, more food needed, higher cost upstart.
Facts - They produce large litters of 8-12 kits, which have a fast growth rate to fryer size (4-5lbs)in 8-12 weeks.
Cages - 30" x 108" x 18" tall includes 3 holes. That is = 7.5 sq. ft per cage. Galvanized After Welding wire\baby saver sides and 1\2inx1in bottoms.
Pros - These pre made cages were not that much more than trying DIY after tools were purchased. Should last a life time with G.A.W. wire if I do my part.
Cons - Cost of large cages for large breeds is costly.
Facts - Bucks and young ones don't need the same size cage as does with kits. Some $$ could be saved taking this into consideration.
Water - Self Watering system with a 2 gallon bucket with floater turn off fed by a garden hose.
Pros - Huge time saving device
Cons - Initial cost. Subject to freezing just a few days a year :-) - mitigated with drainage lines.
Food - http://www.lonestarfeed.com/pdffiles/1416.pdf


Notes Taken

Feed Pellets - Cost $11.64 for a 50lb bag including tax

Oz per day Price per oz Cost Per Day Cost Per Month Cost Per Year
Bucks 5 $0.01 $0.07 $2.21 $26.55
Does at Rest 6 $0.01 $0.09 $2.66 $31.86
Nursing Does 3 weeks 12 $0.01 $0.17 $5.31 $63.73
Nursing Does 3 – Ween 24 $0.01 $0.35 $10.62 $127.46
Young Rabbits 12 $0.01 $0.17 $5.31 $63.73

I also plan to add grass\legumes\alphalpha to the diet to increase fiber. Cost per rabbit TBD.
****This is for a large bread rabbit and according to the instructions on the feed bag. Your breed\size\food choice may not be the same as mine.
Optimum breeding yield for this type of setup is 5 litters a year expecting 35 kits surviving. 3.5lbs of meat per rabbit that's 125lbs of processed meat a year\doe.
x4 does thats 490 lbs of meat for this setup per year.* Results may vary. :-)

Risks\Mitigations


Houston Heat -
plenty of shade,
starting out in October\November to give myself time to get used to the bunnies before hot weather
Insulated roof with radiant barrier. Keeping the radiant heat from heating what's below and convection heat with insulation.
frozen water bottles
misting?
solar fans?
reduced breeding during summer(fewer kits\less meat)
Link Posted: 10/7/2010 7:15:17 PM EDT
Cool, I was hopping(get it) that someone would do a rabbit in the suburban back yard thread.

We cannot do chickens or anything else, but we could probably do rabbits and get away with it.


Thanks for keeping good stats, very interesting to see real time real world and not theory.

thanks
Link Posted: 10/8/2010 5:44:03 AM EDT
Your sketches reminded me of rabbit hutches my dad made ~35 years ago. He raised the rabbits (New Zealand Whites) for show and some meat in our small back yard. I remember that he added a bunch of worms to the soil to help with composting.

One of my tramatic childhood memories was seeing a rabbit head sitting on a stump just after he had killed it for supper. (It was a good fact of life to learn at a young age but tramatic for a a mostly cityfied 5yo...)

Link Posted: 10/8/2010 6:01:49 AM EDT
Sketches remind me of Watership Down
Link Posted: 10/8/2010 6:27:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By UNIT6639:
Sketches remind me of Watership Down
Kinda




Link Posted: 10/8/2010 12:43:31 PM EDT
Fantastic post. In fact I think the way you've designed the hutch looks easier than the way I've got mine with posts at each corner. I think I'm going to take mine down and build it with the center legs instead. I don't yet have any roof panels on it just some plywood so it'll be quick to take apart.

You've researched everything so well. Mine are about 6 months old and I've just this week started trying to get them to mate. I've ended up with 2 bucks and 2 does. I've got 2 NZWs and 2 are Californians. I believe that I may have been overfeeding them though I need to get a scale and weigh their feed out as well as the rabbits themselves. They dive right in when they get feed which has always made me think they weren't getting enough but I've been giving them scoops with a 9oz cup.


Which of the books that you read turned out to be the most helpful? I've read the Storey's guide but don't have the others.




Link Posted: 10/8/2010 12:51:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/8/2010 12:59:00 PM EDT by MateFrio]

Originally Posted By JBFJ40:
You've researched everything so well. Mine are about 6 months old and I've just this week started trying to get them to mate. I've ended up with 2 bucks and 2 does. I've got 2 NZWs and 2 are Californians.


Which of the books that you read turned out to be the most helpful? I've read the Storey's guide but don't have the others.
Take everything I say with a grain of salt until I get a year into this but.......

Read your feed requirements from the food labeling. Don't go above 17% protein and offer free eating for the hay if it's above 14% or so. My plan is to offer pellets at night and then hay first thing in the AM.

Storey's guide is good by I liked Raising Rabbits by Ann Kanable the best. I found it at the library here.

You really should only have one buck. One buck can service 6 or more does so the other is freeloading on your resources. Cross breading NZ whites and Calis is a good option as there are benefits to the two breads.
Link Posted: 10/8/2010 1:01:03 PM EDT
I bought 3 rabbits and cages off of craigslist initially. The cages were the best part of that deal but both things were cheap. However, my dogs got through the fence and killed one and wounded another. So I recently got 3 from a reputable breeder with about 6000 rabbits at her rabbitry at any one time. I went ahead and got an additional buck so I was breeding what she recommended. So I've got both cal and NZW bucks and Cal and NZW does.

I'll check my library for the other books. Thanks
Link Posted: 10/8/2010 1:27:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/8/2010 1:31:00 PM EDT by MateFrio]
Ya, Last Saturday I got the following off of Craigslist from a person getting out of the bunny business

2 Bucks - 4 months old
3 Does (not related to the bucks) - 4 months old
1 Doe undermined age
2 3 hole cages that are in good condition
1 4 hole cage that is in good condition
1 4 hole cage that is in usable condition.
10 Feeders
2 bunny carriers
$120.00

Cages are really too small and I figure most of it I'll be selling. The seller had said they were 30x30 cages but when I got there they magically turned into 24x18. I negotiated a much lower price and took them.

I'm keeping 1 buck and the three young does. The rest I plan on selling.

I'm using so little of the stuff I've not mentioned it here till now.


Link Posted: 10/8/2010 9:25:24 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/9/2010 9:02:46 AM EDT
Heat mitigation is going to be your biggest problem in Houston.

I know guys that raise rabbits semi commercially near Austin (where I am). They use misters and lots of fans in an inclosed, insulated shed to keep them cool. If you can keep them in the shade, and keep a breeze going, they should be ok. Just pay attention to their water.
Link Posted: 10/10/2010 2:30:04 PM EDT
Originally Posted By MateFrio:
Cages are really too small and I figure most of it I'll be selling.


Why would you want to sell useable cages? If they are too small, you can snip out and move the dividers. Better yet, just snip a "door" in the divider and turn two into one, or turn the whole length into one giant cage for finishing weaned rabbits.
Link Posted: 10/10/2010 6:58:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/10/2010 7:02:57 PM EDT by MateFrio]
Got the cages and hardware in Saturday. Spent most of the day making the hutch. Ran out of steam about 80% completed. Just need to put the roof shingles on, put the roof on and then add the hanging hardware. More pics to come Monday of the hutch and I'll update the $$ totals.

Oh, and I've got to make me one of these:


Link Posted: 10/11/2010 4:57:05 PM EDT
Got the "Rabbit Swingset" frame up and ran out of light before I could put down the shingles on the roof.



Here are the cages 30x 108

Link Posted: 10/18/2010 2:40:52 PM EDT
Any updates?
Link Posted: 10/18/2010 2:51:54 PM EDT
Very cool. Good documentation.

How are you going to stop fireants and other varmints?

TRG
Link Posted: 10/18/2010 3:09:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/18/2010 3:12:01 PM EDT by MateFrio]
It's slowly progressing. I got the roof on and just need to brace it a bit. Then purchase the hardware to hang the cages. Then hook up the automatic watering system.

Larue range day took all my time Saturday and church Sunday.

The roof


Side shot with the newer wire cage down below.



Front of roof. By Summer time I'll have some insulation under here. I need to put on another 2' of metal on the overhang. Facing south here the sun comes up lengthwise over the roof.

Link Posted: 10/18/2010 3:14:10 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheRedGoat:
Very cool. Good documentation.

How are you going to stop fireants and other varmints?

TRG

Once you see how the cages are suspended it'll answer your question about fire ants.. plus it's my small backyard so I keep them in check whenever I find a small mound.
Link Posted: 10/18/2010 5:37:19 PM EDT
My grandparents raised rabbits for food for years. I've got some pretty good recipes for them when you are ready to start harvesting (we still use them for chicken a lot now that we don't have much rabbit meat).

Learn to tan the hides too - rabbit fur is pretty soft and warm.


Link Posted: 10/19/2010 12:22:42 AM EDT
Nice.
I'm usually at the 50-100 rabbit level.
Have been hanging my cages from wire, two levels,dropping trays in between, for years.
Thinking of going to back to racks again, at least for some.
Easier to take down and pressure wash once a year. (Some of my units are 6 cages long)

I've never had problems with the heat before, but 3 days over 100 this summer, I lost about 10, ALL on the upper level.
Guess that extra few degrees made the difference, as did breed: didn't lose any Calies or NZs.
Added fans and some frozen, 2L bottles, and no more trouble.
Link Posted: 10/19/2010 5:36:36 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Dave15:
Nice.
I'm usually at the 50-100 rabbit level.
Have been hanging my cages from wire, two levels,dropping trays in between, for years.
Thinking of going to back to racks again, at least for some.
Easier to take down and pressure wash once a year. (Some of my units are 6 cages long)

I've never had problems with the heat before, but 3 days over 100 this summer, I lost about 10, ALL on the upper level.
Guess that extra few degrees made the difference, as did breed: didn't lose any Calies or NZs.
Added fans and some frozen, 2L bottles, and no more trouble.


I have a plastic 'rope' on my front porch that has misting units built in to it. Pretty easy to install it with odd angles, bends and curves. I *think* I got it at Home Depot, but it has been up for several years now.

Might be something to check out. Mine has a simple ball valve that I installed at the porch so that I can turn it on/off and regulate the volume.

TRG
Link Posted: 10/19/2010 7:06:00 AM EDT
From someone who used to raise rabbits in the Texas summers, a frozen gallon water jug placed in the cage works wonders.
Link Posted: 10/23/2010 3:37:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/23/2010 3:38:17 PM EDT by MateFrio]
More Pics\Progress - I just need to figure out what to put between the two cages.




My two dogs Californian dreaming.
Link Posted: 10/23/2010 5:30:04 PM EDT
Great. Like I needed *another* thread to follow and *another* iron in the fire!


Good work, looking forward to more updates!
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 12:02:27 PM EDT
Very nice thread. Raising rabbits is on my to do list for the near future as well.

Link Posted: 10/27/2010 7:35:48 AM EDT
Got the center partition up and some privacy lattice up. I just need to plumb in the water to the hose.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 7:40:44 AM EDT
Why are you dumping the rabbit turds on the ground? I thought they were good fertilizer?

Seems like you could use flat trays, bag the pills, and sell them?

TRG
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 8:25:41 AM EDT
Turds get raked up, I plan on making a small compost pile.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 8:30:58 AM EDT
Originally Posted By TheRedGoat:
Why are you dumping the rabbit turds on the ground? I thought they were good fertilizer?

Seems like you could use flat trays, bag the pills, and sell them?

TRG

in the same hand rabbit urine is rated up there in one of the nastiest smelling urines known
it will eat into plastic also... easier to let it soak into the ground and rake up pellets than let it sit in a pan a soak up urine that has a smell that would make skunks cry

Link Posted: 10/27/2010 8:38:49 AM EDT
Before reading this thread, I though our single rabbit in her (by comparison) humongous cage had sadly too little space. Your rabbits can't hardly move!

I know, it's livestock, not pets. Still have to feel for the little things! Our rabbit has the run of the yard much of the day, she loves to run (and runs quite fast!).

I've considered doing what you're doing... I'd have to lose some of my over-emotional compassion for the animals, though!
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 9:09:25 AM EDT
What is the center partition made of?
Is it a foam board?

Also, how have you anchored the whole deal to the ground?
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 9:18:48 AM EDT
welll from first hand experience I can tell you a rabbit will be perfectly happy as long as it has never been in anything larger than the cage it is in.
these are meat rabbits not somebodys pet. they will lay around and grow and breed
with that said we have a rabbit living in our house.
it started in a small cage then "needed" a bigger cage. then I built it a 6' tall cage. then it didnt like being in that cage
so now it has its own room in the house....guess what she doesnt like being in there either
and roams the house some of the time.
this is more about keeping the wife happy than the dumb rabbit.

so a rabbit is more or less like anything else. they will be happy with what they have until the next best thng comes along
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 9:33:33 AM EDT

Originally Posted By BigRedDog:
What is the center partition made of?
Is it a foam board?

Also, how have you anchored the whole deal to the ground?

Took me weeks to figure out what to make the center portion out of. Corriboard is what I used from a local sign shop. $20 and I had more than enough.

No, the braces on the ground are 6' wide and take care of it really well.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 9:47:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/27/2010 9:58:52 AM EDT by MateFrio]

Originally Posted By tbonifie:
Before reading this thread, I though our single rabbit in her (by comparison) humongous cage had sadly too little space. Your rabbits can't hardly move!

I know, it's livestock, not pets. Still have to feel for the little things! Our rabbit has the run of the yard much of the day, she loves to run (and runs quite fast!).

I've considered doing what you're doing... I'd have to lose some of my over-emotional compassion for the animals, though!

My rabbits are working rabbits not pets. I've provided more room than most meat rabbits get on farms and paid for it $$. 7.5 square feet in each hutch. Where the recommended min is 5 square feet or just 2.5 feet wide and long by most ag requirements.

A "happy" rabbit is a breading rabbit or a growing rabbit.

Life is simple for them. They stop working or reach 5lbs and they get culled and eaten.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 12:29:46 PM EDT
What do you do for the nests? I remember when I was little and my dad had rabbits; he didn't know one was pregnant. It had it's babies and they fell through the holes of the cage and died. It was so sad to my 5 year old self. I also didn't eat "chicken" for years unless I saw the package it came in. He thought of them as livestock and I thought of them as pets. Now I would love to do some urban farming of Chickens and rabbits so this is a very good thread!
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 12:41:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/27/2010 12:42:44 PM EDT by MateFrio]

Originally Posted By MrsCarabinero1979:
What do you do for the nests? I remember when I was little and my dad had rabbits; he didn't know one was pregnant. It had it's babies and they fell through the holes of the cage and died. It was so sad to my 5 year old self. I also didn't eat "chicken" for years unless I saw the package it came in. He thought of them as livestock and I thought of them as pets. Now I would love to do some urban farming of Chickens and rabbits so this is a very good thread!

Look at the last picture up top you'll see the nesting boxes on top of the cages. The wire I got on the bottom and up the sides four inches is called "Baby Saver" wire. It should keep pinkies in the cage in case of accidents.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 1:25:46 PM EDT
Originally Posted By tbonifie:
Before reading this thread, I though our single rabbit in her (by comparison) humongous cage had sadly too little space. Your rabbits can't hardly move!

I know, it's livestock, not pets. Still have to feel for the little things! Our rabbit has the run of the yard much of the day, she loves to run (and runs quite fast!).

I've considered doing what you're doing... I'd have to lose some of my over-emotional compassion for the animals, though!


Good grief, I grow out my litters in 30" X 36" cages!
At least 4 per cage, when finished.Start at up to 8 or 9, whatever size litter it was.
Heck, sometimes the cage floors sag!

Also, know a lady who refills her empty feed bags with rabbit crap, and has folks WAITING to buy it a $5 a pop!

We used to clean it out 2X per year, once it was a foot + deep! (no odor!)
FULL of worms and GREAT for the gardens.
Now going to pans.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 2:44:07 PM EDT
So heres a question which I know could be answered in a book so if you want to tell me to RTFM thats fine.

What is your breeding rotation? I assume you have 1 buck to service the does so do you leave the buck in the does cage 1 day and move him to the next cage, leave him in 2 days or exactly how do you do that? How often do you introduce the buck to the does? Once a month, once a quarter? Does the buck normally hang out in his own cage when not "in use" or does he bunk up with a doe during downtime?
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 3:34:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/27/2010 3:35:23 PM EDT by MateFrio]

Originally Posted By Specop_007:
So heres a question which I know could be answered in a book so if you want to tell me to RTFM thats fine.

What is your breeding rotation? I assume you have 1 buck to service the does so do you leave the buck in the does cage 1 day and move him to the next cage, leave him in 2 days or exactly how do you do that? How often do you introduce the buck to the does? Once a month, once a quarter? Does the buck normally hang out in his own cage when not "in use" or does he bunk up with a doe during downtime?

So, how much tail does a buck get?

Buck is normally left solo.

You take the doe to the buck cage and watch them for a bout 10min. They do the deed and you remove the doe. Breed her again later that night just in case and to get things going. A bit later (I think 14 days) try her again and see. If she rejects the buck she's pregnant.

One buck can easily service 6 does. 31 days later you should have 4 to 16 kits avr. 8. Two weeks after birth you can put the doe in again to get serviced.

Most meat breeders get 5 or 6 litters of kits a year.
Link Posted: 10/27/2010 4:25:49 PM EDT
Take the doe to the buck, if she's receptive, it'll be over QUICK!
He'll sneeze when he's done, and flip off of her backwards.
Go ahead and jigh-five him if you must.

Sometimes, if she's not completely willing, we'll hold her, with her butt propped up a little.

Have always believed them to be induced ovulators, as per the lit.,but wife now checks does first.
If vulva is swollen and red/purple, as opposed to pink, she's in heat, and doe's good to go.
Percentage of breedings that "take" is WAY up now!
Link Posted: 11/2/2010 5:22:17 AM EDT
Did we survive the wind last night?

What is the latest? Do you have scales to track the weight gains?

Link Posted: 11/12/2010 12:31:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/12/2010 12:35:21 PM EDT by MateFrio]

Originally Posted By BigRedDog:
Did we survive the wind last night?

What is the latest? Do you have scales to track the weight gains?


Sorry for the lack of updates. Work\Personal life are busy. Rabbits are doing well. Lots of lessons learned like how fast 5 gallons of water lasts (3 days) and such. Let's say keeping rabbits wastered so far the biggest job. They love to chew though those hoses and I had to order more standoffs. Even with the tubes and such I can't wait to get time to hook up the outdoor hose to the system that i've been filling up\checking every night. Labor is about 15 to 20 min a day.

I also need to setup something for the poop. Wow, bit more than expected I counted a rabbit producing 75 pellets in about 15 min. They made a sound hitting the poop ramp every time.

Next post I'll be putting pictures up of me culling off two extra rabbits and dressing them out.
Link Posted: 11/16/2010 8:45:07 AM EDT
We used to raise rabbits and kept some lime on hand for the hot summer days when the urine odor got too strong. The rabbit droppings are the best fertilizer imaginable.

We also kept some sheetrock scraps for the rabbits to stand on. Sometimes they get "sore hock" from the wire, and the sheetrock seems to cure it quickly. There is always some scrap sheetrock around new home construction.

I have been thinking about getting back in to rabbits as a food source in the questionable economy. Nieghbors are egg producers, so some trade might be possible. Again, the droppings alone are almost worth the trouble of having rabbits.
Link Posted: 11/24/2010 1:03:07 PM EDT
Originally Posted By MateFrio:

Originally Posted By BigRedDog:
Did we survive the wind last night?

What is the latest? Do you have scales to track the weight gains?


Sorry for the lack of updates. Work\Personal life are busy. Rabbits are doing well. Lots of lessons learned like how fast 5 gallons of water lasts (3 days) and such. Let's say keeping rabbits wastered so far the biggest job. They love to chew though those hoses and I had to order more standoffs. Even with the tubes and such I can't wait to get time to hook up the outdoor hose to the system that i've been filling up\checking every night. Labor is about 15 to 20 min a day.

I also need to setup something for the poop. Wow, bit more than expected I counted a rabbit producing 75 pellets in about 15 min. They made a sound hitting the poop ramp every time.

Next post I'll be putting pictures up of me culling off two extra rabbits and dressing them out.


Pictures? dinner pics? Tutorial for processing? Thanksgiving bunny?
Link Posted: 11/26/2010 12:01:39 AM EDT

Originally Posted By BigRedDog:
Originally Posted By MateFrio:

Originally Posted By BigRedDog:
Did we survive the wind last night?

What is the latest? Do you have scales to track the weight gains?


Sorry for the lack of updates. Work\Personal life are busy. Rabbits are doing well. Lots of lessons learned like how fast 5 gallons of water lasts (3 days) and such. Let's say keeping rabbits wastered so far the biggest job. They love to chew though those hoses and I had to order more standoffs. Even with the tubes and such I can't wait to get time to hook up the outdoor hose to the system that i've been filling up\checking every night. Labor is about 15 to 20 min a day.

I also need to setup something for the poop. Wow, bit more than expected I counted a rabbit producing 75 pellets in about 15 min. They made a sound hitting the poop ramp every time.

Next post I'll be putting pictures up of me culling off two extra rabbits and dressing them out.


Pictures? dinner pics? Tutorial for processing? Thanksgiving bunny?

I'd deep fry a bunny


Link Posted: 12/1/2010 11:05:01 AM EDT
Did your watering supply system survive the freeze?

ok, it just barely froze, but still.......
Link Posted: 12/1/2010 11:12:56 AM EDT

Originally Posted By BigRedDog:
Did your watering supply system survive the freeze?

ok, it just barely froze, but still.......

Yes and no.

The lines didn't freeze.

While I was out of town a friend put a tarp up pushing the tubes too close to the cage. My buck took it as a great time to chew though the tube and the 5 gallons leaked out.

I've been keeping them warm by letting them have the nest boxes to hunker down in. I'd like to do more but not use the nest boxes for the wind and I think I'll make a small corner box out of this corriboard so they have something of a windbreak.
Link Posted: 12/4/2010 7:00:38 PM EDT
Finally got around to processing two of the extra bunnies. The older female got me 2.6 lbs of meat. The smaller\younger male produced 2.1 lbs of meat. Sorry, no beforehand weighing. One of the surprises of the night was one of my dogs didn't like the meat and wouldn't eat it. 7 year old black mouth curr. My other puppy 1 year old springer spaniel mut mix took to it after some coaxing then couldn't get enough.

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