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Posted: 7/19/2008 10:55:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 9:54:50 AM EDT by EXPY37]
Here's a proposed layout for a 20 foot shipping container to be occupied by 2 adults.

A bed at the rear of the container that pivots up at the head and is stowed against the rear wall. It would measure 6' 3" long and five feet wide. The mattress would be 2 pillow tops back to back and a ticked cover sewed around them.

That would allow a 1 1/2 foot approx space on each side of the bed to get around it and also a place for a 2 cheap plastic 16" wide storage shelve units for end tables on each side.

In front of the bed on the left side facing the the closed end and ~18 inches in front of the bed would be a 24" by 32" RV shower base and enclosure with shower curtain and to the right of it a 30" by 42" toilet room with an RV toilet. The toilet would have a small holding tank and a valve and macerator pump to handle the waste. I wrote a detailed plan for it.

The title is:

Compact, comfortable, and efficient BO enclosed trailer toileting system -Update 3rd post

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=10&f=18&t=604728

The toilet room has an accordian door [$24 at Home Depot] and once in the toilet room you step in the shower stall and pull the fabric curtain.

In front of the toilet and on the left wall extending to the door would be a 20" countertop at ~30" height for computers, counting your 1000's of rds of ammo or whatever.

On the opposite side would be the kitchen facility with a 20" counter, double SS RV sink, microwave above, maybe a frig, a Coleman propane single burner stove inlet into the counter. Shelves would be above and below it to the max.

Under the bed at rear of container is a 4' by 4' table on a modified HF hydraulic table with the casters and handle removed so the table can be raised to 29" and used when the bed is stowed or lowered to 22" when the bed is deployed, using the foot pedal.



Attachment for shelving all around the container taking advantage of the 8 1/2 foot ceiling height could be provided for substantial storage.

Other facilities would be installed in accordance with your needs and wants. TV, antennas, power controls, Fantastic Vent in toilet room, passive RV closeable vents over bed and kitchen facility.

Smoke and CO detectors, video monitor for outside cams and lights, IR detector controls, etc.

All this infrastructure requires attachment points and some 12VDC power wiring and I'm figuring it should be pre-installed to get it right before insulating is begun.

The attachment points for the add-ons could be 1 1/2" by 1/8 inch steel strap TIG welded at desired locations. After insulation is installed, the strap would be drilled and tapped for 10X24 or 12x24 screws to attach various shelves and fixtures.

A light studwall with a storm/sceen door can be placed across the opening, just inside the heavy doors.

A 5000 BTU AC that can be run with a Honda EU1000 can be installed thru the right wall blowing towards the bathroom entrance to get good dispersion of cool air.

Heat can be provided by a small 8ooo BTU Kerosene heater.

I've done some stuff like this in a trailer and it works well.
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 11:34:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/19/2008 11:37:47 PM EDT by EXPY37]
dup, pls delete.
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 11:36:50 PM EDT
Can anyone interested sketch and post this?
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 7:41:10 AM EDT
that would be hotter than badwater in the summer time. you planning on insulation or a second roof to take the sun's heat?


Link Posted: 7/20/2008 8:22:47 AM EDT
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 9:13:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 9:33:31 AM EDT by EXPY37]

Originally Posted By olwen:
that would be hotter than badwater in the summer time. you planning on insulation or a second roof to take the sun's heat?




2nd roof of timbers and treated plywood.

Attach the timbers to the roof so they don't blow off.

Would take about 5 sheets for a 20 foot 'tainer and $90 worth of treated timbers sawn diagonally.

That will provide an airspace to keep the roof cooler and the sun off it.

Collect water run off from the plywood in a gutter, store it underground in a buried barrel to keep cool and run it thru a RO filter twice to take out the arsenic/treatment chemicals before drinking it if you have to drink it.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 9:14:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 9:27:19 AM EDT by EXPY37]

Originally Posted By Wolfpack:
First of all 40' is just about the same price as a 20' container. Why go with a 20 footer?


Where I'm thinking about, a 20 footer might not make it.

And other reasons...

In a SHTF, bigger isn't always better.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 7:25:55 PM EDT

Originally Posted By EXPY37:

Originally Posted By olwen:
that would be hotter than badwater in the summer time. you planning on insulation or a second roof to take the sun's heat?




2nd roof of timbers and treated plywood.

Attach the timbers to the roof so they don't blow off.

Would take about 5 sheets for a 20 foot 'tainer and $90 worth of treated timbers sawn diagonally.

That will provide an airspace to keep the roof cooler and the sun off it.

Collect water run off from the plywood in a gutter, store it underground in a buried barrel to keep cool and run it thru a RO filter twice to take out the arsenic/treatment chemicals before drinking it if you have to drink it.


I would spend the $ on a few rolls of tar paper and metal roofing...

Your rain catch will work alot better and your plywood wont fall apart in two years...

But thats just me..

+1 to insulation.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 12:10:13 AM EDT

Originally Posted By tx_snafu:

Originally Posted By EXPY37:

Originally Posted By olwen:
that would be hotter than badwater in the summer time. you planning on insulation or a second roof to take the sun's heat?




2nd roof of timbers and treated plywood.

Attach the timbers to the roof so they don't blow off.

Would take about 5 sheets for a 20 foot 'tainer and $90 worth of treated timbers sawn diagonally.

That will provide an airspace to keep the roof cooler and the sun off it.

Collect water run off from the plywood in a gutter, store it underground in a buried barrel to keep cool and run it thru a RO filter twice to take out the arsenic/treatment chemicals before drinking it if you have to drink it.


I would spend the $ on a few rolls of tar paper and metal roofing...

Your rain catch will work alot better and your plywood wont fall apart in two years...

But thats just me..

+1 to insulation.


What kind of metal roofing amd how's the tar paper used with metal?

What kind of roof support do you suggest?
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 1:50:32 AM EDT
I lived in a shipping container for two years that wasn't near that fancy!
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 6:51:05 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Wolfpack:
First of all 40' is just about the same price as a 20' container. Why go with a 20 footer?


I have a 40 that we use for farm storage.

According to the guy I bought it from, a couple of points.

20 is much easier to move etc.

Few have room for a 40

I agree living in a 20 is doable, but tight.

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