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Can someone go ahead and list out the specific and correct filters needed such as N95, P100? I know I read plenty about it many pages ago in one of the threads but can not find it currently.

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Say you have 8 PAPR set ups. Extra batteries and filers, hoods as well. Would you sell a couple and buy newer ones with lithium batteries? Like 3M Airmate to Versa flow 600 series?

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I need more bourbon if I'm gonna be quarantined

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Mine are 3.6 volt/ 5Ah. Newer PAPR are 14-18V. I could not find the 5 unit charger, so I bought one from Amazon. It works, but I have 24 batteries. I found the 5 unit charger, so I am good.

Just thinking out loud.

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I saw an amazon review where a dude took the battery pack wire to a 3Mem PAPR and cut it and wired it up to a regular cell phone / laptop battery bank and it seemed to work fine.

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So I 'autoclaved' a 3M 8210 N95 mask in my instant pot for 15 minutes. 1/2 cup water in the bottom, mask sitting on a stainless steel thing out of the water. On high pressure which by the specs should be about 240F and 11 psi.

It was a used mask that I did a project with a few days ago. It has been hanging outside since I am a slob and never threw it away.

The mask came out of the instant pot surprisingly dry. It was not water soaked at all. very slightly damp in some places but mostly completely dry.

The yellow rubber bands which are glued to the mask ( not stapled) actually got restored / contracted and are like a brand new mask never worn.

It maintained the shape just fine,  the elastic acts like elastic should . I put it on and it seals around my face just like others have  and can breath through it without any noticeable difference.

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So I 'autoclaved' a 3M 8210 N95 mask in my instant pot for 15 minutes. 1/2 cup water in the bottom, mask sitting on a stainless steel thing out of the water. On high pressure which by the specs should be about 240F and 11 psi.

It was a used mask that I did a project with a few days ago. It has been hanging outside since I am a slob and never threw it away.

The mask came out of the instant pot surprisingly dry. It was not water soaked at all. very slightly damp in some places but mostly completely dry.

The yellow rubber bands which are glued to the mask ( not stapled) actually got restored / contracted and are like a brand new mask never worn.

It maintained the shape just fine,  the elastic acts like elastic should . I put it on and it seals around my face just like others have  and can breath through it without any noticeable difference.

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So I 'autoclaved' a 3M 8210 N95 mask in my instant pot for 15 minutes. 1/2 cup water in the bottom, mask sitting on a stainless steel thing out of the water. On high pressure which by the specs should be about 240F and 11 psi.

It was a used mask that I did a project with a few days ago. It has been hanging outside since I am a slob and never threw it away.

The mask came out of the instant pot surprisingly dry. It was not water soaked at all. very slightly damp in some places but mostly completely dry.

The yellow rubber bands which are glued to the mask ( not stapled) actually got restored / contracted and are like a brand new mask never worn.

It maintained the shape just fine,  the elastic acts like elastic should . I put it on and it seals around my face just like others have  and can breath through it without any noticeable difference.

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So I 'autoclaved' a 3M 8210 N95 mask in my instant pot for 15 minutes. 1/2 cup water in the bottom, mask sitting on a stainless steel thing out of the water. On high pressure which by the specs should be about 240F and 11 psi.

It was a used mask that I did a project with a few days ago. It has been hanging outside since I am a slob and never threw it away.

The mask came out of the instant pot surprisingly dry. It was not water soaked at all. very slightly damp in some places but mostly completely dry.

The yellow rubber bands which are glued to the mask ( not stapled) actually got restored / contracted and are like a brand new mask never worn.

It maintained the shape just fine,  the elastic acts like elastic should . I put it on and it seals around my face just like others have  and can breath through it without any noticeable difference.

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This is an excellent time to go through the fridge and pitch all the expired & questionable stuff.

Restock with long-life stuff (frozen food doesn't have to be delicious, just edible) and fresh date everything else. Soup and cheap generic crackers (better than Nabisco Premiums, which went to hell, ask Chef) can provide for months. Gets boring but beats the alternative. Go shopping when everyone else isn't out, i.e. early morning is good. Read all the food ads you usually pitch and see who has what on sale. Regular soup should be a buck a can on sale, Chunky, Progresso et al 3/$5. Adds up when you're buying a bunch. Pasta and sauces (DIY or *gag* Ragu) break up the routine. Freeze meats on sale.

Ideally you should get to the point where you only need to go food shopping (milk, perishables) maybe once a week. The smaller grocery stores have fewer customers (fewer chances for disease!) so favor them over the mega-grocery stores.

Any grocery stores that have big ethnic sections (i.e.Chinese food with labels in Chinese) might better be passed on until this thing is done.

Go to your old boomer grocery stores, not the hipster whole foods trendy stores where millennials slink around with Starbucks caps, shedding Chipotle virus.

tl;dr

Avoid anyone under 50.

Maybe 60.

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Will vented masks survive the autoclave?

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Mine are 3.6 volt/ 5Ah. Newer PAPR are 14-18V. I could not find the 5 unit charger, so I bought one from Amazon. It works, but I have 24 batteries. I found the 5 unit charger, so I am good.

Just thinking out loud.

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I’ve asked this in another thread and it hasn’t received an answer. If this is the wrong thread to ask this question mods move or delete the post.

Question, what is the best way to disinfect a military gas mask so that the mask rubber doesn’t get compromised? Would it be as simple as spraying it down with Lysol or immersion (for a specified time) in a water/bleach mix?

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warm water and soap will work fine.

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So the discussion has spread across many different threads about cleaning items. I keep seeing Ethyl Rubbing Alcohol 70% either straight or diluted with a little water to clean gloves, clothes etc.

Is this still a viable solution or has the cleaning methods changed?

Appendix B-2 to  1910.134: Respirator Cleaning Procedures (Mandatory)

These procedures are provided for employer use when cleaning respirators. They are general in nature, and the employer as an alternative may use the cleaning recommendations provided by the manufacturer of the respirators used by their employees, provided such procedures are as effective as those listed here in Appendix B- 2. Equivalent effectiveness simply means that the procedures used must accomplish the objectives set forth in Appendix B-2, i.e., must ensure that the respirator is properly cleaned and disinfected in a manner that prevents damage to the respirator and does not cause harm to the user.

I. Procedures for Cleaning Respirators

A. Remove filters, cartridges, or canisters. Disassemble facepieces by removing speaking diaphragms, demand and pressure- demand valve assemblies, hoses, or any components recommended by the manufacturer. Discard or repair any defective parts.

B. Wash components in warm (43 deg. C [110 deg. F] maximum) water with a mild detergent or with a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. A stiff bristle (not wire) brush may be used to facilitate the removal of dirt.

C. Rinse components thoroughly in clean, warm (43 deg. C [110 deg. F] maximum), preferably running water. Drain.

D. When the cleaner used does not contain a disinfecting agent, respirator components should be immersed for two minutes in one of the following:

1. Hypochlorite solution (50 ppm of chlorine) made by adding approximately one milliliter of laundry bleach to one liter of water at 43 deg. C (110 deg. F); or,

2. Aqueous solution of iodine (50 ppm iodine) made by adding approximately 0.8 milliliters of tincture of iodine (6-8 grams ammonium and/or potassium iodide/100 cc of 45% alcohol) to one liter of water at 43 deg. C (110 deg. F); or,

3. Other commercially available cleansers of equivalent disinfectant quality when used as directed, if their use is recommended or approved by the respirator manufacturer.

E. Rinse components thoroughly in clean, warm (43 deg. C [110 deg. F] maximum), preferably running water. Drain. The importance of thorough rinsing cannot be overemphasized. Detergents or disinfectants that dry on facepieces may result in dermatitis. In addition, some disinfectants may cause deterioration of rubber or corrosion of metal parts if not completely removed.

F. Components should be hand-dried with a clean lint-free cloth or air-dried.

G. Reassemble facepiece, replacing filters, cartridges, and canisters where necessary.

H. Test the respirator to ensure that all components work properly.

[63 FR 1152, Jan. 8, 1998]

Cleaning is recommended after each use. 3MTM Respirator Cleaning Wipes 504 may be used as an interim method in the cleaning schedule for individu- ally assigned respirators, but this should not be the only method in place. During fit testing, these wipes may also be used to clean masks between em- ployees being tested. However, respi- rators must be thoroughly cleaned at the end of each day, using these procedures:

1. Remove cartridges and filters.

2. Clean facepiece (excluding filters) by immersing in warm cleaning solution, the water temperature should not exceed 50o C, and scrub with soft brush until clean. Add neutral detergent if necessary. Do not use cleaners containing lanolin or other oils.

3. Disinfect the facepiece by soaking in a solution of quaternary ammonia disinfectant or dilute sodium hy- pochlorite (30 mL household bleach in 7.5 L of water), or another suit- able disinfectant.

4. Rinse in fresh, warm water and air dry in a clean non-contaminated area.

5. Inspect the respirator components prior to reassembly. A respirator with any damaged or deteriorated components must be repaired or discarded.

6. Store the clean respirator away from contaminated areas when not in use.

NOTE: The above information is also outlined in the users instructions. Additionally, see specific product user in- structions packaged with each respirator facepiece for additional information.

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So I 'autoclaved' a 3M 8210 N95 mask in my instant pot for 15 minutes. 1/2 cup water in the bottom, mask sitting on a stainless steel thing out of the water. On high pressure which by the specs should be about 240F and 11 psi.

It was a used mask that I did a project with a few days ago. It has been hanging outside since I am a slob and never threw it away.

The mask came out of the instant pot surprisingly dry. It was not water soaked at all. very slightly damp in some places but mostly completely dry.

The yellow rubber bands which are glued to the mask ( not stapled) actually got restored / contracted and are like a brand new mask never worn.

It maintained the shape just fine,  the elastic acts like elastic should . I put it on and it seals around my face just like others have  and can breath through it without any noticeable difference.

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whats a good alcohol to prep that can be used to sterilize among other things.

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Lotta anecdotal info claiming the corona virus is engineered or "weaponized" to affect people of eastern Asian decent.  Some really wild theories out there, some "Chinese virus escaped a lab in Wuhan", others claim "the US did it"  There hasn't been much if any info released about race or ethnicity of victims to date.