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Posted: 5/28/2013 9:32:52 AM EST
There back (if you have been wanting one) Link

Link Posted: 5/28/2013 9:52:01 AM EST
Are they good quality? I don't think I've seen these before.
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 10:13:29 AM EST
I have nothing that will apply the needed output power. Max is 500mW. Who has that kind of radio these days?
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 11:02:26 AM EST
Originally Posted By gcw:
Are they good quality? I don't think I've seen these before.



I guess I'll find out, I ordered one.


Link Posted: 5/28/2013 11:07:56 AM EST
Originally Posted By Mugbug:
I have nothing that will apply the needed output power. Max is 500mW. Who has that kind of radio these days?



A number of radios have a Transverter port.

I read in another auction for the same board that you can change
the input pad resistors so it can be driven with as low as 1mW.



Link Posted: 5/28/2013 12:13:58 PM EST
If it was 222 I would buy, no need for a transverter to 2m. 902 would also be nice.
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 1:32:45 PM EST
Originally Posted By Mugbug:
I have nothing that will apply the needed output power. Max is 500mW. Who has that kind of radio these days?


Most radios will do 5w out. It's easy to build an attenuator to step that down to the mw range.
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 5:24:09 PM EST
You are going to have to get heat away from that board if you want to run FM. If my K3 didn't have an internal transverter option I'd be all over that one
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 5:25:50 PM EST
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By Mugbug:
I have nothing that will apply the needed output power. Max is 500mW. Who has that kind of radio these days?


Most radios will do 5w out. It's easy to build an attenuator to step that down to the mw range.


There are some easy homebrew attenuators that you can build. You will have to make a switch too or else your RX will be attenuated too. That could easily be done using your rigs amp keying circuit.
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 7:00:24 PM EST
Originally Posted By Elijah1:
You are going to have to get heat away from that board if you want to run FM. If my K3 didn't have an internal transverter option I'd be all over that one


The description mentions that you will need to mount the transistor to a heatsink. The way the board is built, it should be easy to mount the transistor to a large heatsink and then use some plastic or silicon spacers to keep the rest of the board from touching.

I think I'm going to grab one. Should be a good match for my Flex-1500 and quite a bit cheaper than every other transverter I've seen. Hopefully the performance is reasonable. Plus the 1500 transmits well beyond 10 meters on the transverter output so the board should cover all of 2 meters.
Link Posted: 5/29/2013 3:51:16 AM EST
tag for reviews
Link Posted: 5/29/2013 8:29:50 AM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
tag for reviews


Better hurry - there are only 4 left!
Link Posted: 5/29/2013 1:57:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/29/2013 1:57:48 PM EST by Mr_Harry]
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By Elijah1:
You are going to have to get heat away from that board if you want to run FM. If my K3 didn't have an internal transverter option I'd be all over that one


The description mentions that you will need to mount the transistor to a heatsink. The way the board is built, it should be easy to mount the transistor to a large heatsink and then use some plastic or silicon spacers to keep the rest of the board from touching.

I think I'm going to grab one. Should be a good match for my Flex-1500 and quite a bit cheaper than every other transverter I've seen. Hopefully the performance is reasonable. Plus the 1500 transmits well beyond 10 meters on the transverter output so the board should cover all of 2 meters.


I also have the Flex-1500.

If this turns out to be a nice unit I may build it into a similar style similar style case as the 1500


Link Posted: 5/29/2013 1:58:19 PM EST
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
tag for reviews


Better hurry - there are only 4 left!



Make that Only 2 left

Link Posted: 5/29/2013 4:42:40 PM EST

Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
tag for reviews


Better hurry - there are only 4 left!



Make that Only 2 left


Dang it! I'll be killed if I buy anything else, though I'd love to be able to get 2m out of the 7600...

Link Posted: 5/29/2013 9:14:58 PM EST

Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
tag for reviews


Better hurry - there are only 4 left!



Make that Only 2 left


Dang it! I'll be killed if I buy anything else, though I'd love to be able to get 2m out of the 7600...


OK, dammit. Now there's zero left. Somebody come fish my carcass out of the creek...
Link Posted: 5/29/2013 11:53:57 PM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
tag for reviews


Better hurry - there are only 4 left!



Make that Only 2 left


Dang it! I'll be killed if I buy anything else, though I'd love to be able to get 2m out of the 7600...


OK, dammit. Now there's zero left. Somebody come fish my carcass out of the creek...


I told you to buy one!
Link Posted: 5/30/2013 8:13:02 AM EST

Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
tag for reviews


Better hurry - there are only 4 left!



Make that Only 2 left


Dang it! I'll be killed if I buy anything else, though I'd love to be able to get 2m out of the 7600...


OK, dammit. Now there's zero left. Somebody come fish my carcass out of the creek...


I told you to buy one!

I got the last one
Link Posted: 5/30/2013 8:32:55 AM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

I got the last one



You Did?

Link Posted: 5/30/2013 8:50:21 AM EST

Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

I got the last one



You Did?


I think so. There was 1 remaining, then i bought one, it went to zero, and I got a shipping email today...

?


Link Posted: 5/30/2013 8:54:29 AM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

I got the last one



You Did?


I think so. There was 1 remaining, then i bought one, it went to zero, and I got a shipping email today...

?





Glad you got one.

Now the wait begins

Link Posted: 5/30/2013 8:58:48 AM EST
Tag for slow boat from Russia stories.
Link Posted: 5/30/2013 9:50:00 AM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

I got the last one



You Did?


I think so. There was 1 remaining, then i bought one, it went to zero, and I got a shipping email today...

?




Nice!
Link Posted: 6/5/2013 3:04:15 PM EST
Still waiting


Link Posted: 6/5/2013 3:23:53 PM EST
Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Still waiting




Me too. I wouldn't expect it to arrive anytime soon. As long as it arrives within a month I'll be happy.
Link Posted: 6/8/2013 8:17:01 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/8/2013 8:18:49 AM EST by Mr_Harry]
Woo Hoo It came in

I've been trying to figure out the values I need to make the input attenuator for 1mw.

It has a 2.2 k ohm for the series and a 330 ohm for the shunt

I think it is going to be remove the shunt and short out the series.


Link Posted: 6/10/2013 8:34:55 AM EST
Mrs. Slice called and said I got a package today from Ukraine, I'm guessing it was this critter. Now to figure out WTF to do w/ the thing...
Link Posted: 6/10/2013 8:41:07 AM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
Mrs. Slice called and said I got a package today from Ukraine, I'm guessing it was this critter. Now to figure out WTF to do w/ the thing...


Cool

I still need to get mine hooked up to test it out

Link Posted: 6/10/2013 4:53:36 PM EST
Mine also arrived today. So a quick trip to Radio Shack and the hardware store to pick up a few things...


then discover that my soldering iron is MIA. Found my soldering gun but it's all gun and no solder - doesn't heat up anymore. Grrrrrr.

At least I got the case drilled.





2 meters on the left, 28 Mhz on the right, and the mic connector has power on the top two pins and PTT on one of the others.
Link Posted: 6/10/2013 4:58:10 PM EST
Originally Posted By phurba:
Mine also arrived today. So a quick trip to Radio Shack and the hardware store to pick up a few things...


then discover that my soldering iron is MIA. Found my soldering gun but it's all gun and no solder - doesn't heat up anymore. Grrrrrr.

At least I got the case drilled.

http://i.imgur.com/wFQKFsqh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8rYQyhJh.jpg

2 meters on the left, 28 Mhz on the right, and the mic connector has power on the top two pins and PTT on one of the others.




Looks good

I haven't had a chance to do much with mine.


Link Posted: 6/10/2013 5:19:28 PM EST
Where'd you get that box Phurba? Or did you make it?
Link Posted: 6/10/2013 5:20:56 PM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
Where'd you get that box Phurba? Or did you make it?


Seconded, that's a sweet enclosure.
Link Posted: 6/10/2013 5:33:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/10/2013 5:34:43 PM EST by phurba]
Originally Posted By Yorknoken:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
Where'd you get that box Phurba? Or did you make it?


Seconded, that's a sweet enclosure.


Radio shack

I'm not sure of the model number (threw the packaging away) but it was hanging on the rack in the store. It's just stamped aluminum - it would be easy to build your own. I stuck some silicon 'feet' from the hardware store on the bottom so it wouldn't be sitting on the screw head. Then I used the rest of the silicon sheet to keep the board away from the chassis.
Link Posted: 6/10/2013 5:40:14 PM EST

Originally Posted By phurba:

Radio shack

I'm not sure of the model number (threw the packaging away) but it was hanging on the rack in the store. It's just stamped aluminum - it would be easy to build your own. I stuck some silicon 'feet' from the hardware store on the bottom so it wouldn't be sitting on the screw head. Then I used the rest of the silicon sheet to keep the board away from the chassis.

This one?

Link Posted: 6/10/2013 6:13:25 PM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By phurba:

Radio shack

I'm not sure of the model number (threw the packaging away) but it was hanging on the rack in the store. It's just stamped aluminum - it would be easy to build your own. I stuck some silicon 'feet' from the hardware store on the bottom so it wouldn't be sitting on the screw head. Then I used the rest of the silicon sheet to keep the board away from the chassis.

This one?



Looks like it.
Link Posted: 6/10/2013 7:49:04 PM EST
I was reading the instructions. It appears this critter is expecting 100mw of input power. My IC7600, on the transverter jack, puts out -20dbm, or .01mw if my math is correct. Directions say that the input is dependent on R7&8, but gives no guidance for adjustment.

Help?
Link Posted: 6/11/2013 3:49:24 PM EST
It lives!



Receiving a repeater about 30 miles away. It appears that I can't use the filters in FM mode, so I was using the adjustable tracking notch filters to get rid of some hum. The noise appears to be local as it does not track when I change frequencies. I also never knew about that repeater until I started spinning the tuning knob



I still need to get a DB9 connector to connect to the Flex-1500 for TX sequencing so I haven't wired up the power / PTT connector yet. At the moment I just have the 12V lead clipped to the back side of the +V pin and the negative lead clipped to the chassis. BTW, I highly recommend building this in a metal box. I haven't tried transmitting yet since I don't have the sequencer wired yet. It occurs to me that I'll probably want to drive an amplifier with this eventually, so I'll probably add a small sequencing circuit with PTT out - have it raise the external PTT line then wait a few msec before bringing up the transverter

The wiring job could be a little neater, but I figure I'll rip into it several more times so it's nice to be able to remove the entire board without unsoldering everything.

Link Posted: 6/11/2013 4:15:32 PM EST
Originally Posted By phurba:
It lives!

http://i.imgur.com/JUvU0S5h.jpg

Receiving a repeater about 30 miles away. It appears that I can't use the filters in FM mode, so I was using the adjustable tracking notch filters to get rid of some hum. The noise appears to be local as it does not track when I change frequencies. I also never knew about that repeater until I started spinning the tuning knob

http://i.imgur.com/uCbGG71h.jpg

I still need to get a DB9 connector to connect to the Flex-1500 for TX sequencing so I haven't wired up the power / PTT connector yet. At the moment I just have the 12V lead clipped to the back side of the +V pin and the negative lead clipped to the chassis. BTW, I highly recommend building this in a metal box. I haven't tried transmitting yet since I don't have the sequencer wired yet. It occurs to me that I'll probably want to drive an amplifier with this eventually, so I'll probably add a small sequencing circuit with PTT out - have it raise the external PTT line then wait a few msec before bringing up the transverter

The wiring job could be a little neater, but I figure I'll rip into it several more times so it's nice to be able to remove the entire board without unsoldering everything.

http://i.imgur.com/tGP9kXs.jpg




Very Cool, I need to get time to get mine setup



Link Posted: 6/11/2013 4:24:13 PM EST
I have AGWPE set up now (this program makes me want to slam my head into a brick wall) and now I'm running AGWTracker (makes me want to slam my head into a brick wall a little less than AGWPE but the urge is still there). Kinda neat watching all the cars breaking the speed limit
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 11:03:48 AM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
I was reading the instructions. It appears this critter is expecting 100mw of input power. My IC7600, on the transverter jack, puts out -20dbm, or .01mw if my math is correct. Directions say that the input is dependent on R7&8, but gives no guidance for adjustment.

Help?


I'll see if I can figure out the math tonight, but you should be able to drive the transverter with .01w (i assume that you mean .01w and not .01mw) - just not with full power out.

Yow, just looked at the manual - it really is -20 dbm on the transverter jack. That's REALLY low. You'll be able to receive for sure, but that might not be enough drive... at least you won't have to worry about overdriving it
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 11:17:19 AM EST
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
I was reading the instructions. It appears this critter is expecting 100mw of input power. My IC7600, on the transverter jack, puts out -20dbm, or .01mw if my math is correct. Directions say that the input is dependent on R7&8, but gives no guidance for adjustment.

Help?


I'll see if I can figure out the math tonight, but you should be able to drive the transverter with .01w (i assume that you mean .01w and not .01mw) - just not with full power out.

Yow, just looked at the manual - it really is -20 dbm on the transverter jack. That's REALLY low. You'll be able to receive for sure, but that might not be enough drive... at least you won't have to worry about overdriving it




I have been thinking about this

The Flex puts out 1mw (.01 watt right)

I'm thinking it should be replace the series resistor with a wire (short it out)
and then possibly removing the shunt resistor.



Link Posted: 6/12/2013 11:29:05 AM EST
Originally Posted By Mr_Harry:
Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
I was reading the instructions. It appears this critter is expecting 100mw of input power. My IC7600, on the transverter jack, puts out -20dbm, or .01mw if my math is correct. Directions say that the input is dependent on R7&8, but gives no guidance for adjustment.

Help?


I'll see if I can figure out the math tonight, but you should be able to drive the transverter with .01w (i assume that you mean .01w and not .01mw) - just not with full power out.

Yow, just looked at the manual - it really is -20 dbm on the transverter jack. That's REALLY low. You'll be able to receive for sure, but that might not be enough drive... at least you won't have to worry about overdriving it




I have been thinking about this

The Flex puts out 1mw (.01 watt right)

I'm thinking it should be replace the series resistor with a wire (short it out)
and then possibly removing the shunt resistor.





Probably something like that. I'll check the schematic tonight... but I'm afraid I might have to use maths
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 11:51:34 AM EST

Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
I was reading the instructions. It appears this critter is expecting 100mw of input power. My IC7600, on the transverter jack, puts out -20dbm, or .01mw if my math is correct. Directions say that the input is dependent on R7&8, but gives no guidance for adjustment.

Help?


I'll see if I can figure out the math tonight, but you should be able to drive the transverter with .01w (i assume that you mean .01w and not .01mw) - just not with full power out.

Yow, just looked at the manual - it really is -20 dbm on the transverter jack. That's REALLY low. You'll be able to receive for sure, but that might not be enough drive... at least you won't have to worry about overdriving it

Yeah, I need some sort of micro-amp . Freaking Icom...
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 12:09:02 PM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By phurba:
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
I was reading the instructions. It appears this critter is expecting 100mw of input power. My IC7600, on the transverter jack, puts out -20dbm, or .01mw if my math is correct. Directions say that the input is dependent on R7&8, but gives no guidance for adjustment.

Help?


I'll see if I can figure out the math tonight, but you should be able to drive the transverter with .01w (i assume that you mean .01w and not .01mw) - just not with full power out.

Yow, just looked at the manual - it really is -20 dbm on the transverter jack. That's REALLY low. You'll be able to receive for sure, but that might not be enough drive... at least you won't have to worry about overdriving it

Yeah, I need some sort of micro-amp . Freaking Icom...


The transverter out is probably just a short piece of coax wrapped around the main out
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 5:37:29 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/12/2013 6:30:07 PM EST by phurba]
Re-read the specs on my 1500 and realized that the PTT pin is an open drain, so I cooked this up in Eagle to drive the PTT on the transverter. Plus it lets me have cool green/red LEDs for RX/TX. Anybody see anything obviously wrong? The 10k resistor will probably go down a bit - just figured I start high to protect the flex.



I don't own a 2m amplifier yet, but I'm wondering if I should redesign the keying circuit to sequence the amp I'll eventually own, or just stick with this for now.

ETA: Derp, had my meter wired up backwards... that pulldown resistor will be a pullup.
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 9:18:08 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/12/2013 9:20:45 PM EST by Skibane]
Originally Posted By phurba:
Re-read the specs on my 1500 and realized that the PTT pin is an open drain, so I cooked this up in Eagle to drive the PTT on the transverter. Plus it lets me have cool green/red LEDs for RX/TX. Anybody see anything obviously wrong? The 10k resistor will probably go down a bit - just figured I start high to protect the flex.

http://i.imgur.com/rwZeIeR.png

I don't own a 2m amplifier yet, but I'm wondering if I should redesign the keying circuit to sequence the amp I'll eventually own, or just stick with this for now.

ETA: Derp, had my meter wired up backwards... that pulldown resistor will be a pullup.


Unless that relay is huge, you can get by with a MUCH larger resistor for R1. 10K is a typical value.

Might want to add a 0.1 uF ceramic bypass cap between the base of T1 and ground, to prevent stray RF from keeping T1 turned on all the time.
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 9:34:12 PM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
I was reading the instructions. It appears this critter is expecting 100mw of input power. My IC7600, on the transverter jack, puts out -20dbm, or .01mw if my math is correct. Directions say that the input is dependent on R7&8, but gives no guidance for adjustment.

Help?


OK Homeslice.... I did some maths. Prior to tonight I knew just above zero about attenuator calculators, and as of now I know about 2 notches more than that. This advice is worth exactly what you paid for it (probably a little less) and while if you blow up your transverter I'll feel really really bad about it, but I can't take any responsibility.. especially considering there aren't any more left!

Here's R7 and R8 on the schematic.



The circuit before Q5 is an L-Pad attenuator. It's basically the same thing as a voltage divider.

Using some maths, I deduced that the j component of ZQ5 was non-existent / very small - if this is wrong then the entire foundation of my figuring is gone, so disregard the rest of this post . Ohm's law came in to tell me that the impedance here would be 1.2 ohms.



The attenuator circuit knocks 20dB of oomph out of the IF signal from your transmitter. Since as wired the circuit wants 100 mW (please excuse my write-o where it says 100 mV) and the pad drops it by 20 dB, Q5 wants -2 dBm or 0.630ish mW on the gate. That is an order of magnitude more than the IC-7600 is capable of providing.

So, by my read on this, you will need to do one of two things:

Option 1 Build an attenuator and switching circuit and use the main TX out of the transmitter. Assuming the lowest setting is 5W, you could use this: (someone check my maths!)

However you would only be able to cover 144-146 MHz with this solution unless you opened up the TX range of your 7800. If you only need the bottom 2 MHz or are comfortable removing a diode, this is what I would do.

Option 2Build a low power amplifier to step up the output from the transverter socket (which likely does not have the same limitation that the main antenna jack has WRT band edges). An IRF510 would probably work but I'm not sure it's possible to get as low an output from it as would be necessary - you might have to use the 510 and another attenuator

Hopefully this is somewhat on the right track and has been helpful.
Link Posted: 6/12/2013 11:15:36 PM EST
!@#$... my calculations were in mA instead of A.... I'll redo them tomorrow.
Link Posted: 6/13/2013 6:06:04 AM EST
According to this link (p19), the transverter port can put out up to -1dbm (0.79mw) with the rig at full power. Maybe there's hope yet?
Link Posted: 6/13/2013 6:19:08 AM EST
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
According to this link (p19), the transverter port can put out up to -1dbm (0.79mw) with the rig at full power. Maybe there's hope yet?



That's Good news.

I still need to get moving with mine, I'm trying to figure out the values for R7 &R8.

I e-mailed the seller but her did not have them so it looks like I'll have to do some math
Link Posted: 6/13/2013 7:14:23 AM EST
Originally Posted By phurba:
I have AGWPE set up now (this program makes me want to slam my head into a brick wall) and now I'm running AGWTracker (makes me want to slam my head into a brick wall a little less than AGWPE but the urge is still there). Kinda neat watching all the cars breaking the speed limit


[Cough]
Soundmodem && xastir
[/cough]

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