When I had my bow set up they set me up with (ie sold me) arrows as well.. Based on a 55 lb draw weight, mechanical release, 27" arrow length, and 125 gr points - They sold me Easton XX75 in 2213 size (which is the most popular based on the easton chart for this setup)

Now I want to drop down to 100 gr points - Using the easton chart It seems I can stay with the 2213, but I need to go up to a 28" arrow -

Is it really necessary to change that 1"? How much will the 1" in arrow length make, by shooting the 100 gr in a 27" arrow?

The bow shop charged me $40 for 6 arrows.. Dicks has the same arrows on sale for under $30 per 6 (normal price was $32-34) - So I am thinking of getting some 28" from Dicks.  Anything wrong with that?

any advise is appreciated

Brian

First off IF YOU DO BUY NEW ARROWS......get as far away from alum. arrows as you can,  spend you money on Carbon arrows......

As for the change to 100 grain heads vs. the one inch change in arrow lenght,  that is to keep your arrow spined correctly......  but just that much wont change much if at all....BUT what will change is your KE   stepping down from a 125 head to a 100 grain head....

Personally , I would swap the 27" arrows to the 100 gr points and see what happens.
Generally , going to a lighter point , assuming the total weight of the arrow is still in safe range , stands to do no harm other than a slight loss of consistency/accuracy.

+1 for Graphite , though. Aluminum/carbon composite is the way to go IMO.
Gotta watch total weight closer , as it's easy to make a composite arrow too light , but overall the advantages far outweigh the small drawbacks.

You guys....

FIRST!!!  Google Front of Center, or FOC, as it relates to arrow balance and spine.  

You must have a "well balanced" arrow in order to be consistent.  

FOC is not as important with field tips as it is with broadheads....IF you are a hunter, measure your FOC with the broadheads you intend to hunt with, and then it will also be fine for the practice field tips.

The chart is a guideline, especially as it pertains to weight.  Stay within IBO-AMO weights to ensure you don't shoot your bow apart.  Besides that, you must keep in mind that a bow is a total system...if you are a hunter, you want a bow that's quieter on the shot which may mean giving up a little speed for a heavier arrow.  

This may mean you add arrow wraps to put a few grains of weight on the rear of the arrow.  The chart doesn't take these kind of tweaks into consideration.

Stop buying shit from Dick's...where the name is indicative of how much the guy behind the counter knows.  Go to a Pro Shop where an archery pro can help you much better, and explain some of this 'black magic' to you while your arrows are being customized for you.      

Here you go since 7Mary3 wants to confuse you even more I will add what I USE!!!   ITs the FOC calculator.......And he is correct  I could go way into how to do it but you being new it would boggle your mind even more...


FOC calculator...

Quoted: Here you go since 7Mary3 wants to confuse you even more I will add what I USE!!!   ITs the FOC calculator.......And he is correct  I could go way into how to do it but you being new it would boggle your mind even more... FOC calculator...

Well....it IS rocket science....

The illustration on that page is a good one.

Well I tried the switch and it didnt work out like I planned.. The BH (muzzy 3 blade) were all over the place and very inconsistant accuracy.. They hit about 6" hi and to the left of the field points..  the FOC was 11% for the 100's..

From reading the easton tuning guide it appears the spines were too stiff and I needed to either increase bow weight or increase BH weight..

I am switching back to the 125's.. Next year I will get come carbon arrows and do the 100 grs..

thanks for all the advise

brian