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Posted: 8/21/2017 4:28:01 PM EDT
On the right track. I'd drop the couple extra dollars and get a Stihl 261 pro grade saw. Will last you about twice as long as the 271, 2 pounds lighter, and way more power.
If you're going to fell a tree 24" in diameter you want a little more than that on the bar, general use an 18" bar will do most jobs and not get too heavy but a longer bar is handy for special jobs. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 5:34:58 PM EDT
Quote History Quoted:
On the right track. I'd drop the couple extra dollars and get a Stihl 261 pro grade saw. Will last you about twice as long as the 271, 2 pounds lighter, and way more power. If you're going to fell a tree 24" in diameter you want a little more than that on the bar, general use an 18" bar will do most jobs and not get too heavy but a longer bar is handy for special jobs. ETA: Don't forget the chainsaw chaps and helmet/face shield/ear pro combo. My chaps have saved me several times and the helmet has kept my bell from getting rung as well. The screen type face shields is much more pleasant on a warm day to wear than safety glasses. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 5:49:52 PM EDT
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Pretty much this. I cut about 8 cords of wood a year, plus woods road cleanup. In general, people tend to go too cheap and too big of a saw. I do 90% of my work with a 16" bar. I have another saw with a 20" bar for the big logs. Are you going to be cutting near the ground? Are there rocks in Texas? Buy some extra chains. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 6:41:44 PM EDT
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Pretty much this. I cut about 8 cords of wood a year, plus woods road cleanup. In general, people tend to go too cheap and too big of a saw. I do 90% of my work with a 16" bar. I have another saw with a 20" bar for the big logs. Are you going to be cutting near the ground? Are there rocks in Texas? Buy some extra chains. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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On the right track. I'd drop the couple extra dollars and get a Stihl 261 pro grade saw. Will last you about twice as long as the 271, 2 pounds lighter, and way more power. If you're going to fell a tree 24" in diameter you want a little more than that on the bar, general use an 18" bar will do most jobs and not get too heavy but a longer bar is handy for special jobs.  ). If you get the second bar stuck too, I can't help you.
Also, don't skimp on PPE, purchasing AND using. I still have a right leg thanks to kevlar chaps. Oh, I have an MS270. Other than the stupid carb intake boot ripping every few years (known issue with that model), been a great saw. It has a LOT of hard hours on it. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 7:04:52 PM EDT
I run 3 Stihl chainsaws, 261 (16"), 362 (20"), 460 (28").
The 261 gets the most use by far. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 8:59:10 PM EDT
A pro saw is the way to go. It will be lighter, have more power, last longer, and generally be much less of a PITA. If you don't work on small engines, pick the brand based on the dealer you like. Don't shop only by bar length....look at the engine size when comparing saws. Personally I would not go lower than 50-60 CCs for a general use saw. I have Stihls and a Jonsered and both brands have been good.
There's nothing wrong with having different size bars for different jobs. The manual/specs will tell you the minimum/maximum lengths that are recommended. I use a 20" the most, but a shorter bar is nice. You don't need a 24"+ bar to cut a 24" tree, but you do need to know what are you doing to fell a tree that size. Consider finding a tree guy that will get them on the ground for you on the cheap. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 10:02:48 PM EDT
thanks for the feedback guys.
right now I'm 100% looking at Stihl but is there any other brands I should be checking out? How about Husqvarna? |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:47:35 AM EDT
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thanks for the feedback guys. right now I'm 100% looking at Stihl but is there any other brands I should be checking out? How about Husqvarna? |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:56:29 AM EDT
Also, as others have suggested, please buy good PPE. Chaps are a must. The Stihl chaps are good for the smaller saws but I personally run Labonville
X-TremeCompetition Chaps. They are fairly light, comfy and full wrap. 10 layers of Kevlar will stop even the big saws. Labonville Chaps |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:27:38 AM EDT
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Also, as others have suggested, please buy good PPE. Chaps are a must. The Stihl chaps are good for the smaller saws but I personally run Labonville X-TremeCompetition Chaps. They are fairly light, comfy and full wrap. 10 layers of Kevlar will stop even the big saws. Labonville Chaps 
Non-scientific testing.  Testing The Cheapest Chainsaw Chaps on AMAZON  Cheap Vs. Expensive Chainsaw Chap Test |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 11:29:01 AM EDT
You don't need a pro saw for 5 acres, unless the extra money doesn't matter in which case just buy an 18" MS261 and be done with it.
Stihl's consumer grade saws are no better than anyone else's. I would go with an Echo CS-450P over a MS-271. Some improved features over the Stihl and still plenty power for medium duty cutting. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 12:01:52 PM EDT
I would rather have a Husqvarna or a Stihl, I have a Poulan. I abused my first Poulan taking down 5 trees on my old property, taking out several freeway bushes down to the root, junipers, cactus, and many, many pines on my Aunt's farm. It was still running strong, so I sold it due to hours and bought another one. All I do is chop up firewood these days and maybe take out a tree a year, so it will serve me a long time. I will keep a Husqvarna on my Amazon wish list for a long, long time, until I am drunk shopping and find one severely discounted.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 4:18:08 PM EDT
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thanks for the feedback guys. right now I'm 100% looking at Stihl but is there any other brands I should be checking out? How about Husqvarna? I would also suggest buying from a dealer. I am convinced many manufacturers have different models they supply to the big box stores (Home Depot, lowes) that are a little less quality. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 4:42:03 PM EDT
My father's chainsaw is an ms290. He cut many trees down with it.
Although I dont have much experience in other brands id still recommend Stihl. From the town i live near (population 20k) to the population i came from (3000) there was stihl dealerships and repair places. I dont recall seeing much for Husqvarna and other brands. There must be a reason why many forestry departments use Stihl |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:41:43 PM EDT
Quote History Quoted:
thanks for the feedback guys. right now I'm 100% looking at Stihl but is there any other brands I should be checking out? How about Husqvarna? |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:31:30 PM EDT
decided on the Stihl for sure. There is a very reputable Stihl dealer here in the area that my dad and several friends have been using for years.
Its a tossup between the 271 Farm Boss and the 261 C-M at the moment. I won't be using the saw all the time but I certainly want to get something that will last a long time. we shall see. Thank you all for the suggestions and help. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 8:36:11 AM EDT
261 C-M seems like a no brainier if those are what you have narrowed it down to.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 8:41:17 AM EDT
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261 C-M seems like a no brainier if those are what you have narrowed it down to. Remember, I'm not living in the forest where I will be using it all day every day. Just need it to help me clear some land at first, then will only be using it on rare occasions if a tree or limb falls. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 8:43:01 AM EDT
ms362, 24 inch bar
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Posted: 8/23/2017 8:55:09 AM EDT
I honestly think the farm boss is fine for your needs. Spend the extra on another bar, chains, and PPE.
My ms270 is not a pro series, runs just fine, and had likely seen more cutting than your saw ever will. Personally I would save the difference. Oh our local dealer will double your warranty if you buy a six pack of Stihl premium oil. Do that. Damn good oil too. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 9:38:38 AM EDT
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I honestly think the farm boss is fine for your needs. Spend the extra on another bar, chains, and PPE. My ms270 is not a pro series, runs just fine, and had likely seen more cutting than your saw ever will. Personally I would save the difference. Oh our local dealer will double your warranty if you buy a six pack of Stihl premium oil. Do that. Damn good oil too. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 9:53:59 AM EDT
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Well it cost 50% more so thats certainly something to consider, but yes I'd rather have it. We will just have to see how I'm feeling about it in the next week or so. Remember, I'm not living in the forest where I will be using it all day every day. Just need it to help me clear some land at first, then will only be using it on rare occasions if a tree or limb falls.
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Posted: 8/24/2017 12:58:23 AM EDT
Who doesn't like more HP in a lighter weight package? Pro saws run at a little higher rpm too.
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Posted: 8/26/2017 6:22:02 PM EDT
The Farm boss with 18" bar is all you need.
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Posted: 8/27/2017 8:29:29 AM EDT
I like the husqvarna 572xp 24" bar. 72cc engine great saw I use that more than my 450 rancher I have a STIHL 026 that never wants to run for crap I do believe it needs a carb to tune it up a bit
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Posted: 8/27/2017 12:26:37 PM EDT
pulled the trigger on the 20" MS 261 C with a few accessories. unfortunately, its probably going to be getting some use real soon with this storm.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 8/27/2017 1:26:52 PM EDT
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pulled the trigger on the 20" MS 261 C with a few accessories. unfortunately, its probably going to be getting some use real soon with this storm. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/327444/chainsaw-291752.JPG 
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Posted: 8/27/2017 1:36:01 PM EDT
Would be good idea to run the first couple tank fulls with quality pre-mix during break-in. Then Stihl Ultra oil unless the $20+ a gallon for pre-mix doesn't concern you.
Use good gas +oil and keep the air filter clean and you'll never wear it out. |
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Posted: 8/27/2017 3:24:01 PM EDT
Looks good glad to see you sprung for a case. I like to catch the leaks before they make it to the shop floor. Yeah use good quality gas oil mix and mix small amounts so it does't sit in the can.
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Posted: 8/27/2017 7:05:00 PM EDT
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pulled the trigger on the 20" MS 261 C with a few accessories. unfortunately, its probably going to be getting some use real soon with this storm. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/327444/chainsaw-291752.JPG |
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Posted: 8/27/2017 9:07:44 PM EDT
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Great choice! What is your plan for sharpening chains? |
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Posted: 8/27/2017 9:18:09 PM EDT
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none as of yet. its on the list of things I'm going to start researching. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Great choice! What is your plan for sharpening chains?  
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Posted: 8/27/2017 10:11:51 PM EDT
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I use this with Stihl files. Easy to use, gets the chains very sharp, repeatable, and removes very little material. www.amazon.com/dp/B071SD5R99 |
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Posted: 8/27/2017 10:12:07 PM EDT
The best $30 I ever spent regarding chainsaws. Literally couldn't live without it.
Granberg Chain Sharpener |
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Posted: 8/28/2017 7:36:03 AM EDT
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Those are $20 at Menards. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I use this with Stihl files. Easy to use, gets the chains very sharp, repeatable, and removes very little material. www.amazon.com/dp/B071SD5R99 
The Granberg on another poster linked works great as well. All metal construction. |
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Posted: 8/28/2017 8:50:53 AM EDT
I got the stihl 2 in 1, like that it fits in my carhartt hammer pocket and I can hit a few links if I'd idiot it into a rock or it starts cutting slow.
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Posted: 8/28/2017 8:25:44 PM EDT
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Posted: 8/28/2017 8:59:00 PM EDT
For sharpening chains I've settles on two items. The Pferd 2 in 1 file system (identical to Stihl). It is fast and sets the depth gauges at the same time you're sharpening the cutter.
For a quick touch up, I use a Granberg stone on a dremel. I use the Pferd every third sharpening or so to keep the rakers in check. This is way quicker than the Timberline (yes, I have one), way quicker than an off the bar grinder (yes, I have an Oregon one), and it is one step instead of messing with a seperate depth gauge and flat file. 2-3 minutes a chain. No reason not to keep them very sharp. |
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