Free Case Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Free Case Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil

Posted: 5/12/2011 4:46:19 PM EDT

I thought some of the SF crew could use a free oil rebate.

http://www.valvolinevr1racingoil.com/

Enjoy!

Posted: 5/12/2011 4:58:10 PM EDT

[#1]

Cool. Although rebates can be a big hassle at times.

Also be cautious of racing oils in street vehicles.

Posted: 5/12/2011 5:13:05 PM EDT

[#2]

Thank You!
I'm a car guy and free is a good price!

Posted: 5/12/2011 5:48:55 PM EDT

[#3]

Valvoline has had some good rebates in the past.

I remember the one for free pair of Mechanix gloves ($20 a pair) for buying one 5 quart jug of oil.

Still have the gloves.

Posted: 5/12/2011 6:12:51 PM EDT

[#4]

Thanks!

Posted: 5/12/2011 8:29:13 PM EDT

[#5]

Thanks, is this safe to use in my '06 Saturn Vue motor?

Posted: 5/12/2011 8:56:52 PM EDT

[#6]

I would not do it. I used racing gear oil in a Blazer I owned. After destroying bearings and axle shafts, figured out that track oil is for the track and street oil is for the daily driver.

Quoted:

Thanks, is this safe to use in my '06 Saturn Vue motor?

Posted: 5/12/2011 9:00:56 PM EDT

[#7]

maybe not in the grocery getter, but im betting this would lube a guys black rifles for a long, long time...

Posted: 5/12/2011 9:09:16 PM EDT

[#8]

Quoted:

maybe not in the grocery getter, but im betting this would lube a guys black rifles for a long, long time...

No doubt!

Posted: 5/13/2011 4:42:02 AM EDT

[#9]

so explain to me why oil used to lubricate a race engine that is designed to run hard would not be effective in a regular engine?

seriously, that doesn't make much sense to me unless it has something to do with needing to be changed more frequently due to fewer suspension agents for dirt and such?

Posted: 5/13/2011 4:53:10 AM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
so explain to me why oil used to lubricate a race engine that is designed to run hard would not be effective in a regular engine?
seriously, that doesn't make much sense to me unless it has something to do with needing to be changed more frequently due to fewer suspension agents for dirt and such?

It apparently has "25% more zinc-phosphorus"

(ZDDP or Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphates )
However, I found these snippets:

When did Valvoline start making motor oil specifically for racing?

Racers have been depending on Valvoline for more than 100 years.
Valvoline formulated the first racing motor oil in 1965 and Valvoline
VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is the best-selling motor oil of all time. It can
also be used for today's cars.

And

"What are the benefits to using a racing oil versus a regular "street legal" oil?
The Valvoline VR1 Racing & "Not Street Legal" Racing Oils contain
additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on
metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher
horsepower engines, and include less detergents than regular
conventional motor oils."

And

"Why have the zinc/phosphorus levels in motor oil changed?

With ever increasing limits on emissions, automobile manufacturers
have tightened emission control systems on newer vehicles. This is one
of several factors considered when the American Petroleum Institute
(API) sets standards for motor oil. The current API standard is "SM"
which replaced the previous "SL" classification. Because phosphorus can
poison a vehicle's emission system, the level of zinc is lower for
current motor oil."

So... use your judgement.... probably good for a lawn mower though.

Posted: 5/13/2011 4:58:51 AM EDT

[#11]

so does that just mean i put more junk in the air or will it clog my cat converter or something?

Posted: 5/13/2011 5:13:17 AM EDT

[#12]

TBS, I don't know.

I don't know that this oil will or will not do anything to create more maintenance for a street engine.

I just related my experience with a racing gear oil that did not have one of the additives that a street oil needed. Using that racing gear oil destroyed the axle of my then BOV.

YMMV but I would not bet the power pack of my BOV on an oil that is not really intended for the way I use the BOV.

Posted: 5/13/2011 5:33:25 AM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:

TBS, I don't know.

I don't know that this oil will or will not do anything to create more maintenance for a street engine.

I just related my experience with a racing gear oil that did not have one of the additives that a street oil needed. Using that racing gear oil destroyed the axle of my then BOV.

YMMV but I would not bet the power pack of my BOV on an oil that is not really intended for the way I use the BOV.

understood.

i am just having a hard time wrapping my head around something designed for extreme engine conditons causing problems in an engine not running as hard. just trying to figure it out. this stuff will likely just go in my generator anyway.

Posted: 5/13/2011 5:45:30 AM EDT

[#14]

TBS, I was there.

It went like this:

First I was; Ooooo look HSLD racing gear oil. I'm not running my rig that hard. This will be an epic win.

Then I was; LOOK my axle seals are pissing my $$$$ HSLD gear oil out onto my brakes.

Then I was; LOOK My bearings are trashed too, and there are groves in the axle shafts.

Then I learned that the race oil did not have the additive that is used to protect the bearings in street applications. The race oil was meant to be changed every few hours of use.

Since that experience I try to know the side effects of going HSLD.

Posted: 5/13/2011 6:03:44 AM EDT

[#15]

I wouldn't run it in a modern engine. It is straight 50 weight...

Posted: 5/13/2011 6:07:34 AM EDT

[#16]

I may just use a quart of it in my VW Passat as a "summer blend" or just have a case on hand as weapons lube, etc. Free is free...

Posted: 5/13/2011 6:13:48 AM EDT

[#17]

Quoted:
I wouldn't run it in a modern engine. It is straight 50 weight...

The pic on the web site shows it as 10W-30.

OTOH if it's 50W I'll throw it in my old Mustang as the old gal blows through a quart a week. After 40 years that engine really needs to be rebuilt.

Posted: 5/13/2011 6:59:46 AM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:

Quoted:

I wouldn't run it in a modern engine. It is straight 50 weight...

The pic on the web site shows it as 10W-30.

OTOH if it's 50W I'll throw it in my old Mustang as the old gal blows through a quart a week. After 40 years that engine really needs to be rebuilt.

per advance auto it comes in several weights. All of them are eligable for the rebate.

Posted: 5/13/2011 10:18:09 AM EDT

[#19]

There is no real difference in "RACING" oil & "STREET" oil when it comes to the actual lubrication qualities.

Racing oil typically has more ZDDP which is NEEDED if you have a flat tappet camshaft in your car. New cars come with roller cams and don't need the extra ZDDP to lube the lifters & cam which is one of the reasons ZDDP was removed/reduced. Racing oil may also have less detergents in it requiring it to be changed more often to stay clean.

Racing oil really isn't that much different than the oil you put in your car just a few years ago that was (iirc) SL rated. The .gov keeps requiring cleaner & cleaner engines so the oil companies keep adding more detergents to wash the gunk out of the engine & into the oil pan. Throw in computer controlled fuel injection & high output ignitions, and you end up with an engine that burns the fuel more completely leaving less hydrocarbons in the cylinder to be washed out by the oil. This is why you can go 6000 - 8000 miles between oil changes now instead of every 3000 miles.

If you have a flat tappet cam in your car, you need "racing" oil or a ZDDP additive.
If you have a roller cam, don't waste you $$$ on the "RACING" hype.

Bob is the oil guy <––––-More than you ever wanted to know about motor oil.

Posted: 5/13/2011 10:38:33 AM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I wouldn't run it in a modern engine. It is straight 50 weight...

The pic on the web site shows it as 10W-30.

OTOH if it's 50W I'll throw it in my old Mustang as the old gal blows through a quart a week. After 40 years that engine really needs to be rebuilt.

per advance auto it comes in several weights. All of them are eligable for the rebate.

I guess I'll have to check out another store. The store I went to only had straight 50 and said that was all that it came in... Bastages....

Posted: 5/13/2011 12:02:29 PM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:

There is no real difference in "RACING" oil & "STREET" oil when it comes to the actual lubrication qualities.

Racing oil typically has more ZDDP which is NEEDED if you have a flat tappet camshaft in your car. New cars come with roller cams and don't need the extra ZDDP to lube the lifters & cam which is one of the reasons ZDDP was removed/reduced. Racing oil may also have less detergents in it requiring it to be changed more often to stay clean.

Racing oil really isn't that much different than the oil you put in your car just a few years ago that was (iirc) SL rated. The .gov keeps requiring cleaner & cleaner engines so the oil companies keep adding more detergents to wash the gunk out of the engine & into the oil pan. Throw in computer controlled fuel injection & high output ignitions, and you end up with an engine that burns the fuel more completely leaving less hydrocarbons in the cylinder to be washed out by the oil. This is why you can go 6000 - 8000 miles between oil changes now instead of every 3000 miles.

If you have a flat tappet cam in your car, you need "racing" oil or a ZDDP additive.

If you have a roller cam, don't waste you $$$ on the "RACING" hype.

Bob is the oil guy <––––-More than you ever wanted to know about motor oil.

Bingo. Great explanation!

Posted: 5/13/2011 12:10:15 PM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:
There is no real difference in "RACING" oil & "STREET" oil when it comes to the actual lubrication qualities.

Racing oil typically has more ZDDP which is NEEDED if you have a flat tappet camshaft in your car. New cars come with roller cams and don't need the extra ZDDP to lube the lifters & cam which is one of the reasons ZDDP was removed/reduced. Racing oil may also have less detergents in it requiring it to be changed more often to stay clean.

Racing oil really isn't that much different than the oil you put in your car just a few years ago that was (iirc) SL rated. The .gov keeps requiring cleaner & cleaner engines so the oil companies keep adding more detergents to wash the gunk out of the engine & into the oil pan. Throw in computer controlled fuel injection & high output ignitions, and you end up with an engine that burns the fuel more completely leaving less hydrocarbons in the cylinder to be washed out by the oil. This is why you can go 6000 - 8000 miles between oil changes now instead of every 3000 miles.

If you have a flat tappet cam in your car, you need "racing" oil or a ZDDP additive.
If you have a roller cam, don't waste you $$$ on the "RACING" hype.

Bob is the oil guy <––––-More than you ever wanted to know about motor oil.

Thanks for the post. Finally someone who know's about ZDDP.

ZDDP is a good thing and is good for lubricity, they have raped the ZDDP out of today's oil for emissions systems. Taking out ZDDP reduces lubricity of the oil and engine life.

"Racing oil" from Valvoline is there way of saying "hey we still make the good old school oil" but you can also buy the new crappy stuff too.

Posted: 5/13/2011 12:12:20 PM EDT

[#23]

It would take me a long time to write out an explanation to all this, but please trust me I know a lot about these oils. A lot of race oils are garbage and you do not want to run them in your street car. They trade off protection for power. This particular oil Valvoline VR1 is fantastic oil for your street car. One of the best in fact, 10x better than Mobil 1 that normal guys think is so good.

Posted: 5/13/2011 12:58:21 PM EDT

[#24]

I have abused all manner of engines from lawn mowers to blown alcohol and I will testify to the FACT that Valvoline racing oil is teh SHIZZZZNITZ!

My engines were torn down regularly for inspection and maintenance and the best looking ones ALWAYS were run on Valvoline.

Posted: 5/13/2011 4:59:47 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:
Valvoline has had some good rebates in the past.

I remember the one for free pair of Mechanix gloves ($20 a pair) for buying one 5 quart jug of oil.

Still have the gloves.

LOL, I've been carrying a 1 gallon, Valvoline water jug for over 20 years.
Plus a tackle box, metal tool box, folding chair, etc

Posted: 5/13/2011 5:23:50 PM EDT

[#26]

I agree about this oil for flat tappet engines...it's just the thing!
I have a Medium Duty GMC w/a 427 BBC engine,and went to my local Autozone today to buy a case.
BE CAREFUL...the rebate says it is for SYNTHETIC VR1 Racing Oil.
All my AZ had was CONVENTIONAL VR1 Racing Oil in 2 weights 20W-50 and 50W
They never heard of Synthetic VR1.
The printable Rebate from clearly states that the rebate is for Synthetic VR1.
So...My search continues.
BTW It was priced at $4.68 a quart,so 12 quarts would have exceeded the rebate Max of $50.00 had it qualified.
I bet the Synth costs even more.

Posted: 5/13/2011 5:29:47 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:

I agree about this oil for flat tappet engines...it's just the thing!

I have a Medium Duty GMC w/a 427 BBC engine,and went to my local Autozone today to buy a case.

BE CAREFUL...the rebate says it is for SYNTHETIC VR1 Racing Oil.

All my AZ had was CONVENTIONAL VR1 Racing Oil in 2 weights 20W-50 and 50W

They never heard of Synthetic VR1.

The printable Rebate from clearly states that the rebate is for Synthetic VR1.

So...My search continues.

BTW It was priced at $4.68 a quart,so 12 quarts would have exceeded the rebate Max of $50.00 had it qualified.

I bet the Synth costs even more.

Rebate form states "one case or six quarts of VR1 synthetic motor oil"

Posted: 5/13/2011 6:08:01 PM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:

so does that just mean i put more junk in the air or will it clog my cat converter or something?

it may mess up your cat.

High zinc/phosphorus oil is wonderful for stationary engines, like genny's and lawnmowers. i'm getting this free oil for my genny and tractor. I would not put this in anything that has a cat.

Posted: 5/13/2011 7:06:05 PM EDT

[#29]

oops

Posted: 5/13/2011 7:19:59 PM EDT

[#30]

oops again.
Be sure not to buy the stuff that says "Not Street Legal" as the rebate doesn't appy to that.

Posted: 5/13/2011 9:19:36 PM EDT

[#31]

Quoted:

I thought some of the SF crew could use a free oil rebate.

http://www.valvolinevr1racingoil.com/

Enjoy!

We love free stuff. Thanks!

-Slice

Posted: 5/13/2011 9:25:04 PM EDT

[#32]

the link above this post is the NOT STREET LEGAL stuff and is excluded from the rebate under the rebate details. You can get it from your local napa by reserving online

Posted: 5/14/2011 5:54:27 AM EDT

[#33]

I did some shopping around in my local area and this oil is $8.50 a quart. It is for race cars. i'm not using it in my DD's due to them having cats... race cars dont have cats and most use 20w50. I have a friend who races in the late model class at our local NASCAR track. He's going to use this, but advised me not to use it in my car, but since its free, to go ahead and use it in my stationary engines and mowers ...etc.

i currently use Rotella T or Delo in my stationary engine and mowers, because of the high zinc content.

You diesel guys will probably love this price as well.

Posted: 5/14/2011 8:23:51 PM EDT

[#34]

Quoted:

Quoted:
There is no real difference in "RACING" oil & "STREET" oil when it comes to the actual lubrication qualities.

Racing oil typically has more ZDDP which is NEEDED if you have a flat tappet camshaft in your car. New cars come with roller cams and don't need the extra ZDDP to lube the lifters & cam which is one of the reasons ZDDP was removed/reduced. Racing oil may also have less detergents in it requiring it to be changed more often to stay clean.

Racing oil really isn't that much different than the oil you put in your car just a few years ago that was (iirc) SL rated. The .gov keeps requiring cleaner & cleaner engines so the oil companies keep adding more detergents to wash the gunk out of the engine & into the oil pan. Throw in computer controlled fuel injection & high output ignitions, and you end up with an engine that burns the fuel more completely leaving less hydrocarbons in the cylinder to be washed out by the oil. This is why you can go 6000 - 8000 miles between oil changes now instead of every 3000 miles.

If you have a flat tappet cam in your car, you need "racing" oil or a ZDDP additive.
If you have a roller cam, don't waste you $$$ on the "RACING" hype.

Bob is the oil guy <––––-More than you ever wanted to know about motor oil.

Thanks for the post. Finally someone who know's about ZDDP.

ZDDP is a good thing and is good for lubricity, they have raped the ZDDP out of today's oil for emissions systems. Taking out ZDDP reduces lubricity of the oil and engine life.

"Racing oil" from Valvoline is there way of saying "hey we still make the good old school oil" but you can also buy the new crappy stuff too.

+100 on Valvoline! I've been using it for 30 years in everything I own until a few years ago. I still use it in anything with a roller cam, but had to change oils for my flat tappet engines.

I did a bunch of research a while back on ZDDP (and T.E.L. "Lead") for an engine build for my '67 Firebird. I ended up going with a roller cam on that engine, but I also have a '65 Bonneville with the original 389, flat tappet, engine and I run Shell Rotella Triple Protection 15w-40 (diesel) oil in it because it has ZDDP and is about the best out there, in it's price range & availability, for protecting older engines.

GM sells "EOS" (Engine Oil Supplement) that you add when you change your oil to add/increase the ZDDP content, but they stopped selling it a while back then came out with a "New & Improved" version that I haven't seen any reports on yet.

Posted: 5/14/2011 10:54:16 PM EDT

[#35]

can't folks with diesel motors just cut their fuel with it?

Posted: 8/13/2011 4:12:33 PM EDT

[#36]

I got my rebate in the mail today, so did my neighbor, umm.... errr, i mean in his name. that was the most expensive 12 quarts of oil i ever bought. $105 to be exact after taxes. two $50 rebates covered it quite well.

My tractors are enjoying the blue colored oil as is my genny.