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Posted: 4/20/2009 11:49:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/20/2009 12:56:28 PM EDT by wreckinturn4]
I would like some ideas for a diesel BOV.  The criteria is that it has to be a pickup so that I can use it to go to the hardware store, pull the boat etc. That it is 4wd and non-military because I don't want to be suspected as a right wing radical militia member by DHS.  And most importantly, it would need to be resistant to an EMP.  Is there any such thing?

ETA Our budget is 10k.
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 12:44:49 PM EDT
Its not technically "Military" so I think its ok.  I am considering buying another one in about 4 years.  I think the next one will be the 2-door pickup truck version.  

This one is the 4-door Opentop.  

Dont believe all the maintaince horror stories for the H1.  You can get a good solid running truck if it has been well maintained like mine.

Link Posted: 4/20/2009 12:54:51 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Citabria7GCBC:
Its not technically "Military" so I think its ok.  I am considering buying another one in about 4 years.  I think the next one will be the 2-door pickup truck version.  

This one is the 4-door Opentop.  

Dont believe all the maintaince horror stories for the H1.  You can get a good solid running truck if it has been well maintained like mine.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb302/Citabria7gcbc/l_2f6dae2ab1904125b0de976324ae3c58.jpg


Thats really nice but I should have said that as a third vehicle, our budget needs to stay under 10k.  Are there no computers in the H1's or are their electronics shielded?
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 12:58:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/20/2009 12:59:06 PM EDT by bradinator]
If thats you're only reason to not go for a military vehichle, then I would reconsider.  Im sure you are on some sort of list just for reading on this site.

consider this:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=834033&page=1
the OP in that paid 1800 for a beast of a BOV and he says it will run a variety of fuel


Edit: fixed link
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 1:10:07 PM EDT
Originally Posted By bradinator:
If thats you're only reason to not go for a military vehichle, then I would reconsider.  Im sure you are on some sort of list just for reading on this site.

consider this:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=834033&page=1
the OP in that paid 1800 for a beast of a BOV and he says it will run a variety of fuel


Edit: fixed link


Ok, let me add one extra little bit of criteria.  It has to be somthing the wife will let me park in the driveway.  And that really would'nt be that practical for pulling the boat or going to Home Depot for a few 2 x 4's.  One of the K-5 Blazers may work if I had it painted, maybee to a flat black.  Does anyone know how reliable they are and what parts would have to be replaced after an EMP?  And, do they have enough power to pull a heavy boat easily?
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 1:13:24 PM EDT
Originally Posted By wreckinturn4:
Originally Posted By Citabria7GCBC:
Its not technically "Military" so I think its ok.  I am considering buying another one in about 4 years.  I think the next one will be the 2-door pickup truck version.  

This one is the 4-door Opentop.  

Dont believe all the maintaince horror stories for the H1.  You can get a good solid running truck if it has been well maintained like mine.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb302/Citabria7gcbc/l_2f6dae2ab1904125b0de976324ae3c58.jpg


Thats really nice but I should have said that as a third vehicle, our budget needs to stay under 10k.  Are there no computers in the H1's or are their electronics shielded?


My H1 is a third vehicle.  Not my primary truck.  

10k should get you a basic functional Humvee.  Nothing pretty in it and no electronics to mess up if rained on, or submerged.  

Here are a couple sites to look at:

This guy has some humvess he fixes up.  Email him with your budget and I bet you can get a decent 2 door pick up

Also this site has privately sold humvees

For do it yourself maintaince or questions/troubleshooting repairs this is a great site.  I save tons of money doing stuff myself.

Link Posted: 4/20/2009 1:15:16 PM EDT
Here is what I just got:
http://www.funkesautosales.com/Autos/790086/790086RSfull.jpg

97
12 Valve Cummins
5 speed
4x4

Many thanks to "Boomer" on this board for clearly articulating the advantages of this particular truck! I did a bunch of other research and it backed up every thing he said. They are hard to find, I looked for 6 months before I found mine.

i'm super happy with the purchase, so I'm kinda biased.
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 1:20:23 PM EDT
an older dodge with mechanical controled diesel, retro fit for waste oil, if you install a rendering unit
you can even burn urbanitoil.
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 1:47:39 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Solution:
Here is what I just got:
http://www.funkesautosales.com/Autos/790086/790086RSfull.jpg

97
12 Valve Cummins
5 speed
4x4

Many thanks to "Boomer" on this board for clearly articulating the advantages of this particular truck! I did a bunch of other research and it backed up every thing he said. They are hard to find, I looked for 6 months before I found mine.

i'm super happy with the purchase, so I'm kinda biased.



THIS...

I've got one just like above but white and auto.  I've had this truck for 1 year and put 20K on it with no problems.  Its got 190K on it right now and I would put it up against any new one.
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 2:19:18 PM EDT
Originally Posted By wreckinturn4:
Originally Posted By bradinator:
If thats you're only reason to not go for a military vehichle, then I would reconsider.  Im sure you are on some sort of list just for reading on this site.

consider this:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=834033&page=1
the OP in that paid 1800 for a beast of a BOV and he says it will run a variety of fuel


Edit: fixed link


Ok, let me add one extra little bit of criteria.  It has to be somthing the wife will let me park in the driveway.  And that really would'nt be that practical for pulling the boat or going to Home Depot for a few 2 x 4's.  One of the K-5 Blazers may work if I had it painted, maybee to a flat black.  Does anyone know how reliable they are and what parts would have to be replaced after an EMP?  And, do they have enough power to pull a heavy boat easily?


Im young... i dont understand what "practical" means.

jk... thats understandable.
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 2:47:19 PM EDT
I'd go for a mil-surp M1008 5/4 ton pickup.  Repaint it in civilian colors and it'll look just like any other old Chevy.

http://www.militaryvehicles.com/vehicle_10.shtml

Plus, you'll have about $5k left over for diesel, because with that 4.56 rear end you're going to need it!
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 4:19:46 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Solution:
Here is what I just got:
http://www.funkesautosales.com/Autos/790086/790086RSfull.jpg

97
12 Valve Cummins
5 speed
4x4

Many thanks to "Boomer" on this board for clearly articulating the advantages of this particular truck! I did a bunch of other research and it backed up every thing he said. They are hard to find, I looked for 6 months before I found mine.

i'm super happy with the purchase, so I'm kinda biased.


BINGO!!

All mechanical, super reliable, 18 to 22 MPG if you drive it carefully.  Good for about half a million miles if it's well maintained.

Ops
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 4:39:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/20/2009 4:39:52 PM EDT by wreckinturn4]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.  I would love one of those H1 pickups but I just can't see finding one not full of holes in that price range.  The 97 Dodge with the 5 speed is all mechanical?  How do

you tell if it is one with the 12 valve motor (engine size, model etc)?  Are any other Dodge trucks made a couple of years before or after the same?

Link Posted: 4/20/2009 4:58:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/20/2009 4:58:59 PM EDT by DevilPig]
Heres mine, turbo diesel, minimal electronics....once its started you can remove the battery and alternator and have to pull the fuel cutoff to get it to shut off:

(when I bought it....rusty and beat up)




(now....less rusty and still in progress)





Link Posted: 4/20/2009 5:15:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/20/2009 5:17:25 PM EDT by Tight-group]
Originally Posted By 418cwc:
Originally Posted By Solution:
Here is what I just got:
http://www.funkesautosales.com/Autos/790086/790086RSfull.jpg

97
12 Valve Cummins
5 speed
4x4

Many thanks to "Boomer" on this board for clearly articulating the advantages of this particular truck! I did a bunch of other research and it backed up every thing he said. They are hard to find, I looked for 6 months before I found mine.

i'm super happy with the purchase, so I'm kinda biased.



THIS...

I've got one just like above but white and auto.  I've had this truck for 1 year and put 20K on it with no problems.  Its got 190K on it right now and I would put it up against any new one.

THIS..

I have the same in black body very rough 283K about 18 mpg since the dowel pin blew out of the timeing cover

and knocked the injector rich, oh well, a little JB Weld and $400 later and it's got more power than ever.

Fatty wagons injector line preheaters and the remote fuelfilter $250, you won't believe what these engines will burn.
Link Posted: 4/20/2009 8:06:38 PM EDT
Originally Posted By wreckinturn4:

Thanks for all of the suggestions.  I would love one of those H1 pickups but I just can't see finding one not full of holes in that price range.  The 97 Dodge with the 5 speed is all mechanical?  How do

you tell if it is one with the 12 valve motor (engine size, model etc)?  Are any other Dodge trucks made a couple of years before or after the same?



All dodge 3/4 and 1 ton trucks with the diesel option from 94-early 98 had the 12 valve.  Pre-94 trucks had a 12 valve (still mechanical) but it had a different turbo and some other differences... the body was also different.  In 98 dodge added rear doors to the extended cab.  If you can find a early 98 12valve 5-speed extended cab you best jump on it because they are almost impossible to find.  Trucks from 98.5-02 had the updated 24valve head and VP-44 pump (electronic).  

By mechanical we mean that the lift pump and injection pump requires no computers or electricity to time or supply fuel to the motor.  The lift pump, which supplies low pressure fuel to the injection pump, is run off a cam lobe.  The injection pump, which supplies high pressure to the injectors, is gear driven.  It is also VERY easy to make TONS of power very cheaply with these trucks.  The only problem is transmissions and rear ends need to be beefed up to handle pretty much anything above stock settings.

cumminsforum.com and dieseltruckresource.com are good sites to learn about these trucks...
Link Posted: 4/21/2009 4:08:12 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Citabria7GCBC:
Originally Posted By wreckinturn4:
Originally Posted By Citabria7GCBC:
Its not technically "Military" so I think its ok.  I am considering buying another one in about 4 years.  I think the next one will be the 2-door pickup truck version.  

This one is the 4-door Opentop.  

Dont believe all the maintaince horror stories for the H1.  You can get a good solid running truck if it has been well maintained like mine.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb302/Citabria7gcbc/l_2f6dae2ab1904125b0de976324ae3c58.jpg


Thats really nice but I should have said that as a third vehicle, our budget needs to stay under 10k.  Are there no computers in the H1's or are their electronics shielded?


My H1 is a third vehicle.  Not my primary truck.  

10k should get you a basic functional Humvee.  Nothing pretty in it and no electronics to mess up if rained on, or submerged.  

Here are a couple sites to look at:

This guy has some humvess he fixes up.  Email him with your budget and I bet you can get a decent 2 door pick up

Also this site has privately sold humvees

For do it yourself maintaince or questions/troubleshooting repairs this is a great site.  I save tons of money doing stuff myself.



I thought it was illegal for the military to release hummers to the civian population per DOT ?? What gives ?
Link Posted: 4/21/2009 7:16:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/21/2009 7:20:44 AM EDT by Boomer]
Originally Posted By wreckinturn4:

Thanks for all of the suggestions.  I would love one of those H1 pickups but I just can't see finding one not full of holes in that price range.  The 97 Dodge with the 5 speed is all mechanical?  How do you tell if it is one with the 12 valve motor (engine size, model etc)?  Are any other Dodge trucks made a couple of years before or after the same?



A Dodge with the 12 valve Cummins is going be considerably more cost effective than a H1. Not only that, the Dodge has a more pedestrian appearance that is less likely to attract attention, parts for the Dodge will be easier to find and less expensive, and sorry H1 owners, but the 6.2/6.5 engines used in the HMMWVs/H1s absolutely pale in comparison to the Cummins 6BT in virtually every aspect of performance, durability, and longevity. Yeah, one could always bring the H1 Alpha with it's 6.6l Duramax into the discussion, but that blows the budget out of the water.

To answer the second part of your post, yes, the Cummins 6BT found in the 1989 to early 1998 Dodge Rams uses mechanical lift and injection pumps. Once running, these engines require no additional electrical power for continued operation. If it is a factory diesel engine in these years, it is a Cummins 12 valve. The only exception is the 1998 model year, during which Dodge transitioned to the Cummins ISB 24 valve electronically governed motor mid-year.

The 1989 - 1993 Rams were the last of a series of chassis and body style that dated back to the mid 1970s. During this era quality was often questionable, they are more prone to rust, the transmission choices were less desirable, the first few years of the Cummins engines were not intercooled, and they used the Bosch VE mechanical rotary injection pump that while not a bad unit does not enjoy the same reputation of the subsequent model. On the plus side, they used what I would consider to be a more durable if rougher riding front leaf spring suspension, an axle that employed locking hubs and serviceable bearings, and a tough gear driven transfer case.

For the 1994 model year the Ram received a complete remodel from the ground up. The 1994-2004 models are known as the Second Generation trucks. Along with the entirely new chassis and body style a coil sprung front end was employed, the front axle was equipped with a central axle disconnect system and non-serviceable unitized wheel bearings, the interior became much more comfortable and well equipped, etc. During the first half of this era, from 1994 until early 1998, the Cummins engine received what is known as the Bosch P7100 injection pump, which has earned for itself a stellar reputation as extremely durable and tolerant of alternative fuels. HP varied from 160-215hp depending on model year and transmission. The automatic transmissions used are marginal, not very tolerant of increases in engine power output or really heavy hauling or towing. The manual transmissions, first the 5 speed NV4500 and later the 6 speed NV5600, enjoy considerably better reputations although they are not without their own warts. The NV241 chain driven transfer case was adopted. Axles continued to be the Dana 60 front and Dana 70 rear with the manual transmission equipped trucks now receiving the larger, stouter Dana 80 rear axle.

Beginning in mid-1998, the Cummins ISB 24 valve engine with it's VP44 electronically controlled injection pump appeared. Also for the 1998 model year the interior was redesigned and small rearward opening back door doors known as the Quad Cab became available.  

For the 2003 model year the 3/4 and 1 ton Rams received yet another complete redesign. This time the Cummins engine received the even more electronically controlled high pressure common rail fuel system. These trucks are nicer even pretty much every aspect, although in my own personal opinion, from a survival standpoint their dependence on electronic controls and components leaves something to be desired.

For me, the 1994-early 1998 Second Generation trucks pencil out to be the most reasonable compromise of cost, survivability and daily drivability. The P7100 equipped 6BT diesel engine, NV4500 transmission, NV241 transfer case, Dana 60 front, and Dana 80 rear make for a hard to beat drivetrain combination. Some people might wonder how I come to recommend specifically the 1997 model year. Here it is: Only the standard single cab was available in 1994. The Club Cab with it's small rear bench seat became available in 1995. In 1997, the power brake system was changed from vacuum boosted to hydraulically boosted, the latter being noticeably superior. In 1998, the Quad Cab and short bed were introduced as options, becoming popular with prices reflecting such. To me, the limited improvement in rear seat access did not warrant the large increase in price these trucks typically commanded. In short, the 1997s seem to offer the most truck for the money.

Now to be fair, as with anything else these trucks are not without their shortcomings. Things that need addressing are as follows:


  • Killer Dowel Pin, or KDP. The timing gear case is indexed to the front of engine block with dowel pins. One of these pins can, over time, vibrate out and drop into the timing gear case. There are 3 outcomes: (1) It falls harmlessly into the oil pan. (2) It hits the timing gears and is kicked against the timing gear case, causing it to crack and leak oil profusely. In some instances simply using an epoxy like JB Weld can seal up the crack, in others the timing gear case must be replaced, necessitating removal of the radiator, AC condenser, engine accessories, injection pump, timing gears, camshaft, etc. Yes, it is as expensive as it sounds, generally in excess of $2,000. (3) The dowel pin hits the timing gears and goes in between them, causing them to break. This in turn causes the valves to hit the pistons and is generally the the death of the engine.

    Fortunately, through preventative maintenance the KDP can be averted before it strikes with about $50 in parts and a few hours of wrenching to install a washer that will prevent the dowel pin from leaving it's bore.


  • The NV4500 has a design flaw that allows 5th gear to come loose on the mainshaft. When this happens, the truck is still operable in the remaining 4 gears, you just lose overdrive. The problem is that the mainshaft is not fully splined where the overdrive gear rides. Over time and use, this causes wear that allows the gear to wobble on the mainshaft, in turn causing the retaining nut to back off and allow the gear to slip off of the splined portion of the mainshaft. Common fixes include improved locking nuts and even welding the nut in place. The best solution is to get at the underlying problem by rebuilding the transmission with a mainshaft of improved design that uses full length splines under the overdrive gear.


  • The steering on these trucks usually needs help as well. A stronger, improved track bar often helps as does a steering box brace.




The trucks otherwise? Meh, about on par with Ford and GM products of similar vintage. Like anything else, if you are going to increase the engine's power, which is amazingly easy with these engine, be prepared to have to upgrade other drivetrain components to handle it.

Anyways, my fingers are starting to get sore...
Link Posted: 4/21/2009 7:45:42 AM EDT
i'm going to buck the trend in this thread and say look at the fords '02 and earlier w/ the 7.3L TD.  for your price of $10k you'd probably be looking at late 90's vintage, possible early '00s w/ 100k miles, which isn't a problem in these engines.  

there was also a thread on this very topic a week or so ago, so you might want to look for it, but the conclusions were similar.  dodge and ford are the way to go.
Link Posted: 4/21/2009 8:14:45 AM EDT
Originally Posted By uncool:
Originally Posted By Citabria7GCBC:
Originally Posted By wreckinturn4:
Originally Posted By Citabria7GCBC:
Its not technically "Military" so I think its ok.  I am considering buying another one in about 4 years.  I think the next one will be the 2-door pickup truck version.  

This one is the 4-door Opentop.  

Dont believe all the maintaince horror stories for the H1.  You can get a good solid running truck if it has been well maintained like mine.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb302/Citabria7gcbc/l_2f6dae2ab1904125b0de976324ae3c58.jpg


Thats really nice but I should have said that as a third vehicle, our budget needs to stay under 10k.  Are there no computers in the H1's or are their electronics shielded?


My H1 is a third vehicle.  Not my primary truck.  

10k should get you a basic functional Humvee.  Nothing pretty in it and no electronics to mess up if rained on, or submerged.  

Here are a couple sites to look at:

This guy has some humvess he fixes up.  Email him with your budget and I bet you can get a decent 2 door pick up

Also this site has privately sold humvees

For do it yourself maintaince or questions/troubleshooting repairs this is a great site.  I save tons of money doing stuff myself.



I thought it was illegal for the military to release hummers to the civian population per DOT ?? What gives ?


I am not all caught up on it, however I do know there are several out there. I think most of them were late 1980s trucks and early 1990s.  I think those trucks got out of the .MIL prior to the DOT ruling.  I have seem a couple of them registered in other states.  Im not real caught up on the subject though,  that was part of my reason I went with H1 instead of Humvee.

Link Posted: 4/22/2009 3:00:28 PM EDT
1st Gen. 89 to 93 or 2nd Gen. 94 to 98.5 Dodge Diesel have the more mechanical and less computer controlled 12 valve Cummins Diesels, legendary for robust strength and longevity, they also come with Dana Spicer running gear as well.
Just a thought and there are many fine examples for under 10 grand as was my highly modified 97 Laramie.








 
 
Link Posted: 4/22/2009 4:16:22 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Bubbles:
I'd go for a mil-surp M1008 5/4 ton pickup.  Repaint it in civilian colors and it'll look just like any other old Chevy.

http://www.militaryvehicles.com/vehicle_10.shtml

Plus, you'll have about $5k left over for diesel, because with that 4.56 rear end you're going to need it!


Super idea.

Just picked up my m1008 a few weeks ago, already painted red with silver bumpers. Added civilian model interior parts, cummins 4bt and overdrive swap coming soon. Currently has 4.10 gears with stock-sized tires. Not too bad on the interstate, really. 16-18mpg mixed driving. Might go back to 4.56 with the overdrive and skinny 35" tall tires I'm planning to run. Great trucks overall though. Tough as nails.

Another SHTF consideration is fuel capacity. 20 gallon tank on the cucv trucks... I've got a Suburban tank (38 or 40 gallons I believe) that I'm planning to mount under the bed and ditch the saddle tank. Another option is adding a second saddle tank like the civvy trucks have.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6QBtbp_uR7o/SdP1ThoFSYI/AAAAAAAABLw/UH4SYzzP-ys/s640/P1010714.JPG
Link Posted: 4/22/2009 4:48:49 PM EDT
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Heres mine, turbo diesel, minimal electronics....once its started you can remove the battery and alternator and have to pull the fuel cutoff to get it to shut off:

(when I bought it....rusty and beat up)

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n123/majorpayne83/IMG_0204.jpg


(now....less rusty and still in progress)

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n123/majorpayne83/005-2.jpg







What year is that? I have been thinking of getting one in the future

Link Posted: 4/22/2009 5:02:01 PM EDT
Originally Posted By hdglock:


What year is that? I have been thinking of getting one in the future



its a 1980

Thats the only year the turbo diesel models were produced.  They did make the non-turbo models in 77, 78, and 79 though.

You can tell 1980's from the rectangle headlights...the rest of the years had round headlights.

Link Posted: 4/22/2009 5:37:01 PM EDT
I would get a 12v. Plug up ur wastegate tube and grind the fuel plate and put a 4in exhaust (340$) and a intake(100-260) and get 26mpg easy after timming the p-pump.


I own a 6.7 and wish I would of bought 6 of the 12v LOL
Link Posted: 4/22/2009 11:08:50 PM EDT
Originally Posted By rosejackets67:
Another SHTF consideration is fuel capacity. 20 gallon tank on the cucv trucks... I've got a Suburban tank (38 or 40 gallons I believe) that I'm planning to mount under the bed and ditch the saddle tank. Another option is adding a second saddle tank like the civvy trucks have.


Why not run the stock saddle tank and the Suburban tank for a combined total of 60 gallons?
Link Posted: 4/23/2009 4:27:00 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Boomer:
Originally Posted By rosejackets67:
Another SHTF consideration is fuel capacity. 20 gallon tank on the cucv trucks... I've got a Suburban tank (38 or 40 gallons I believe) that I'm planning to mount under the bed and ditch the saddle tank. Another option is adding a second saddle tank like the civvy trucks have.


Why not run the stock saddle tank and the Suburban tank for a combined total of 60 gallons?


or use both saddle tanks and the suburban tank to get a total of 80 gallons?

Fuel; buy it cheap and haul it
Link Posted: 4/25/2009 7:48:30 PM EDT
94-97 F250 Powerstroke.  I have the extended cab, and no problem throwing all my stuff in the backseat.   It's got the long bed and a gooseneck ball for pulling the stock trailer.  Mine's got 275K on it, and gets 26mpg HWY.
Link Posted: 4/25/2009 10:34:06 PM EDT


I drove it most of a summer with out a voltage regulator and plugged it in at night until I had a chance to switch it.
Link Posted: 4/26/2009 3:03:42 AM EDT



Originally Posted By Jus_Ad_Bellum:


http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/jus_ad_bellum/101_1679-1.jpg



I drove it most of a summer with out a voltage regulator and plugged it in at night until I had a chance to switch it.


gotta love the classics.



 
Link Posted: 4/26/2009 7:19:37 AM EDT
1987-1993 F250 6.9/7.3L IDI Diesel, 5 speed manual transmission


Why????   EMP proof
Link Posted: 4/26/2009 10:43:43 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Cacinok:

Originally Posted By Jus_Ad_Bellum:
http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss299/jus_ad_bellum/101_1679-1.jpg

I drove it most of a summer with out a voltage regulator and plugged it in at night until I had a chance to switch it.

gotta love the classics.
 


The only thing that really sucks about it is that I need some new rocker pannels
Link Posted: 4/29/2009 5:18:11 PM EDT
Originally Posted By cowpuncher:
94-97 F250 Powerstroke.  I have the extended cab, and no problem throwing all my stuff in the backseat.   It's got the long bed and a gooseneck ball for pulling the stock trailer.  Mine's got 275K on it, and gets 26mpg HWY.


26 MPG on a Powerstroke?  I'd have to see it to believe it.  What mods?  I've got the 97.

Michael
Link Posted: 4/29/2009 5:28:22 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/29/2009 5:29:13 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/30/2009 10:08:16 AM EDT
Originally Posted By crob1:

gotta love the classics.
 


I concur.


http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p97/Cummins600/DCP_09701stgen.jpg




Wow, makes me want to work on mine... nice rig!
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