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Durkin Tactical Franklin Armory
User Panel

Posted: 8/18/2007 10:48:58 PM EDT
Per a members request for more construction info for a mini toilet/room that can be installed into an enclosed trailer or bomb shelter, cave, or anywhere a compact toilet is needed with instructions for operation.

The toilet room:

Choose location for toilet room, mine is directly across from the man door on the port side of the trailer and measures [I'm not there to measure it] about 32 inches wide by about 4 feet long.

It is made from 1/4 plywood and an aluminum [HD stuff mostly] frame.

As you sit on the toilet you face to the front of the trailer.

In this room, to the front right is a 4 or 5 drawer plastic storage cabinet [WMart] about 12" by 16" mounted so the drawers pull to the port side of trailer. I have not found it necessary to use the drawer retainer I made for it. Kleenex box is on top of cabinet for easy access thruout the trailer along with other girly stuff.

Above that cabinet are brackets for 2 al/tef frying pans. In the front center of the toilet room is a 6" or so shelf bracket to hang clothes, coats, etc on.

On the wall to the left of the room are several elastic net pouches like the ones in Cabelas boating dept for storing reading material, meds, toothbrushes, etc. TP roll holder is mounted in this area.

Above the net pouches is a plastic tool holder clip dodad that you can snap toothbrushes, etc into.

Mounted to the rear port side, down low, is an accumulator for the water pump and a pressure gage and several ball valves for various functions.

There is a Fantastic fan in the ceiling of the room for a fart fan and for general purpose ventilation. It is variable speed with auto closure for rain and all their other features. [There is an unpowered vent in the rear starboard part of the trailer, immediately above my head when sleeping for cross ventilation.]

Remote fan control is on the outside wall over the heater and next to the accordion BR door. We use the fan all the time for getting rid of cooking odors and cross venting at night. Very important to get this.

There is a medicine cabinet mounted above the toilet on the rear wall of the room. It has a hinged PVC tube with a notch cut into it that captures the mirror's door to prevent it from opening during travel.

Next to the right side of the med cabinet is a bracket to hold a youth model 20 ga 870 shotgun in a gun case that can be covered with a towel if guests are around.

The trailer is a 2 axle tandem and weighs about 3900 to 4200 #. It is insulated well on all surfaces and the floor is sealed with that rubber membrane with sticky stuff sold at HD laid on the frame, then good pink insulation and then plywood floor replaced.

To the starboard side of the toilet room is a place for a broom and dustpan, and the 2 1/2" aluminum tubing stack for the catalytic vented propane heater. Extra heat in BR.

The door to the BR is an accordian lightweight type sold at HD. There is a threshold under it. There is that white thin plastic, melamine I think, on the floor.

Most available space is used, that's part of the challenge and fun.

How to make:

As mentioned choose a toilet location and room location based on your holding tank dimentions and trailer cross member locations.

Get a plastic RV toilet, about $80.

Buy an appropriate RV holding tank or improvise a tank, mine was from an RV supply catalog and measured about 9", 2' by 3' [best I can remember] and holds about 8 gallons.

Secure the toilet to the floor using a standard toilet ring and using plastic adapters and a seal from an RV catalog, plumb the toilet into the tank. I would have to look at my installation, its been 3 years.

Vent the tank using 3/4 inch PVC from a sealed hole in the tank, thru the floor, up the BR wall, thru the roof. 3/4 inch works fine.

Secure tank under trailer with several metal bands padded with plywood or hard insulaion or vinyl tubing over the bands.

Not in this sequence but cut a hole as low in the side of the tank on the starboard side as you can and install a standard RV 3" slide valve using appropriate fittings. Using a Fernco 4" hose adapter, connect the valve to a 12 VDC macerator pump [~$125]. Plumb the output of the macerator pump to the port side of the trailer with 1" braided vinyl tubing and using electrical conduit clips/supports to hold a standard ball valve with a hose adapter on the outside, connect the tubing to the ball valve with a barbed nipple.

The pump mounts transversly between crossmembers. I.e. the pumps ouput fitting is pointing to starboard.

Connect the pump to 12VDC thru a fuse or CB, safety interlock, and momentary PB switch. You don't want that pump coming on unexpectedly.

Support pump with vibration isolators and fabricated mtg bracket with a slight downward slope to assist clearing the holding tank.

Provide a trap door thru the trailer floor to access the slide valve and pump for service.

Build the entire system on the bench first to get every thing worked out and fitted, if you try to do it on the trailer, well, forget it...

Choose the tank, pump, etc, road clearance about the same as the bottom of the axle.

Flushing. You don't flush in the conventional way or the holding tank would be full after the ladies hit the toilet a few times.

We can go about 4 or 5 days with a technique of placing a sheet of TP on the bottom of the bowl, above the toilet slide/foot valve, and taking a dump on it. Then using a hoseless pump up sprayer from WMart with the nozzle modified for a good strong stream, and pumped up well, hose the crap down from the sides of the bowl and wet the paper too.

Don't forget to rinse under the seat and behind the lid if you're dining Mexican.

Then press the foot valve and drop the crap into the tank, and wash up the bowl. Very satisfying process.

Works beautifully, uses very little water and your holding tank lasts a ling time. Adaptable to home use.

To dump the HTank, access the slide valve before the pump and open it, open the ball valve on the outside of the trailer, connect a short length of garden hose to fiting on ball valve and run it to a sewer at dump station or be creative, I never am.

Have your SO hold the hose while you press the pump red buttion. The tank will be emptied in about 15 seconds.

If there is no dump station or you don't feel like going to one, take one of your 6 gallon water containers, have your SO hold the hose in it with the opening covered with a rag and let'er rip. Dump the container later or leave it on the camp attend... Never mind.
Link Posted: 8/19/2007 5:43:34 AM EDT
Really need pics for this little project.

Sound well thought out.

Link Posted: 1/16/2008 3:55:20 PM EDT
Thought I would bump this because of the related topics and give a bit of data and to re-present details of our waste disposal system.

We've been traveling in the stealth trailer since early last Friday morning and have covered about 2000 miles to date, 6 days. We've got a ways to go and are taking our time.

To give an idea of the volume of waste put into the black holding tank:

We dumped the 7 gallon holding tank last night [Tuesday] after 5 days. All our human waste, liquid and solid, was in the tank from being accumlated over that period of 5 days, I'd say the tank had room for 1/2 to 1 gallon more.

The volume of waste we produce is probably typical for a man and woman.
Link Posted: 1/16/2008 4:38:37 PM EDT
I remember this post, and found it to be interesting. Could you please take some pictures, as it would really help add to your descriptions?

Link Posted: 1/17/2008 3:36:44 AM EDT

I remember this post, and found it to be interesting. Could you please take some pictures, as it would really help add to your descriptions?


We're driving now and won't be back to base for a couple weeks. Ask any question.
Link Posted: 6/18/2008 11:26:19 PM EDT
Anyone tried these ideas yet?
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 11:02:26 PM EDT
These techniques can be used in a container.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 4:45:11 AM EDT
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 8:21:02 AM EDT
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