Woohoo!

Got the programming cable, downloaded CHIRP, installed an actual "Start" button on our fricken Windows 8 system (so I could actually use the damn computer!), downloaded a new driver so the chinese clone cable would actually work, and PRESTO!!!!   It actually works!  I'm a complete moron on this computer stuff, and even I got this up and running...




Next I'll have to dremel off the nubs on the oversize batts to make them fit.

Okay, I finally dinked around with the batteries this evening.  Instead of using a dremel (too lazy to dig through the garage looking for it), I just used a knife blade and carved out the interfering bits of plastic on the 3800mAh batts.  They fit just fine now.  I also had to sand the portion that engages the UV-5R+'s latch on the 6 AA battery case.  I popped six enelopps in and it seems to work fine also.

Pics.....

6 AA batt case on left, UV-5R+ with 3800mAh batt in center, and spare 3800mAh batt on right...



Size comparison:

From left to right-- UV-5R+ with 3800mAh batt, original 1800mAh batt, 3800mAh batt, and 6AA battery case...

Mine arrived today. Plain -5R, not plus or A; spent $37 for radio and cable shipped from Amazon. Chirp is running now and I'm slowly getting the local repeaters programmed in.

I was stunned by how small this thing actually is. I knew it was compact, but this is TINY. I tossed the radio on a scale for giggles; my Leatherman CORE is almost a quarter-pound heavier.

I already had an N9TAX Slim-Jim waiting for it, both are going to live in my GHB/hiking bag. Next: a AA battery pack and one of those extended packs...

My UV-5R Plus showed up today, too.  Dang this thing is tiny.  Right now I'm playing radio voyeur until I get my license.  I'm picking up traffic from individuals that I know are 18+ miles away as the crow flies.  I took my first sample technician test last night and scored a 96.  I want to go for general at the same time.

This is better than sex.  Of course, at 61 there's not a whole lot of sex.

Variable, with the 6-AA pack you need to  use one dummy cell if the others are Alkalines.  That gives you 7.5 volts, just right to replace the 7.4 v Lithium.  With 9 v from 6 AA Alkalines, many report the radio shutting off on TX.

Glad to see you have things going your way on this.  You will be amazed how long batteries last.

JC, you'll pass Tech, but I do urge you to go for General.  You'll be glad you did.

I'm taking mine in ... *checks watch* 11 hours. I expect I'll pass tech and general with no issue, I'll spitball at extra but haven't studied at all. Meantime, I'm happily poking at chirp...

I'm taking Tech and General on the 21st.  Not that I'll be able to transmit any time soon with Congress cramming Zero Care at us and refusing to listen to us.

Yeah. I've got two transmitters I'm itching to use, but there's no such thing as a "stroke-t"!

Thanks for the tip!  I didn't know about that.  I was using eneloops I had pulled out of an RC helicopter remote, so I was probably only pushing 7.2--7.8 volts.  I'm going to try to stick to the eneloops, but I'll heed your caution and file it in my head for future warning if I have to use alkalines.

I think the eneloops probably roll around 1.3 volts fresh off the charger, but I'll have to check them next time to be sure.

So I've just got the UV-5RA. Got the USB cable that was an extra along with the little disc of software.

Should I even install that or just go straight to CHIRP? Does that disc have anything the HT actually needs?

I went straight to CHIRP. A panda-stickered and otherwise-unlabeled CD-R doesn't inspire "put it in my laptop" confidence in me.

It took me an hour or two to get the channels entered with PLs and labels for my area, but it's working like a champ.

In Chirp select Radio > Import from data source to save a couple of hours next time.  :D

Ditto!  Don't even try the panda disk.  I did and it locked up while I was trying to use it.  I had to take the disk out and restart.  I don't know if Windows 8 had anything to do with it, but either way it isn't worth it.

I'm RF inept, and even I managed to get CHiRP running.  It's actually kinda cool in my opinion.

I downloaded the "daily build" and it works perfect.

My data source was a printed sheet of repeaters. Then I added Arfcom, marine-16/22a, CAP-SAR, and the national hailing for good measure.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile

Mine held up to the hike up Cheaha Mt in Alabama.

I was pretty sure that somewhere in this thread I mentioned discarding any discs that came with this radio or programming cable.

Yes, I did.  

Well sure, but where's the challenge in that?  J/K!!!

Curiosity locked up my shit yo!

Don't throw them away.  The make a really cool light show if you microwave them.

and will keep birds out of your garden.

Thanks for the super long info thread. Not that I needed another HT, but this is just too cheap to pass up.


Also, this may become the cause for me to drag a few more new hams into the mix.

I have a 2 meter repeater close enough that I can pick it up with my BC350 scanner with the standard 3' antenna on it if I go outside.  Will one of these little handhelds reach the repeater?  Would I need a whip antenna?

For someone who has never programmed or played with a HAM radio, how hard is it going to be to program a UV-5R?

I am thinking about ordering one to listen to the repeater while I get ready for my license test.

It's well worth the $8 to get the programming cable; then download CHIRP for programming. Don't even screw around with programming via menu - just plug it in and zap it with the new stuff. Changing/re-sorting the channels? Play on the computer and then dump it in the radio.

As to the repeater... there's only one way to find out. Repeaters are often in the 30-50W range (at least in my area), mounted high, and will have a solid 50+ mile range. It's anyone's bet whether a 5W HT will reach that far. A better antenna will certainly increase your odds...

Hey guys, I just bought the UV-5R today at the survivors/preppers expo. Got the 21 inch antenna, I'm just starting out, so I wanted something cheap. I see I have lots of reading to do.

How new people to HAM read this thread:



"Ermagawd this sounds magical"

I LOL'd at the rest of your post.


Then you're doing it wrong!  

A) there's a lot of that I agree with.

B) for a new ham everything is the joy of learning something new. Here lies the fun in Ham Radio..... there's always something you haven't played with yet. (it may or may not be new) Enjoy it if you like it.

C) the OP may enjoy telling people that he's heading to the can for the third time today using his VOICE. (instead of just posting it to facebook)

D) Unless you live in a few special places (CA, Hurricane country) you may never have to deal with the emcomm side of ham radio. That's probably good. That doesn't mean it's a waste of time. If it's something you are interested in and it makes you feel better/more secure, then by all means follow it.

Agreed.  There is more to ham radio than just signal reports, contesting, and Emcomm.  A LOT more.

Get out and DO something!

I downloaded the CHIRP and got repeater lists for the 3 surrounding counties.  If I try and cope and paste the lists for each county, I get an error message saying "pasted memory 1 is not compatible with this radio because frequency so and so, is out of supported range"  I am using the UV-B5, does this make a difference?  What am I doing wrong?

Did you follow the first step, download from the radio to Chirp, then delete all existing memories?

If so, you should then select Radio > Import from data source > Repeater Book and have no issues.

If you do not have to pick your radio, or the 5R is not on the list, you're not successfully connected to the radio or your have the wrong version of Chirp.

I got to the point where I select the model, and successfully deleted all the preexisting info.  Then I went to the repeater book and found repeaters for the 3 surrounding counties.  But when I try and import those three lists into the now blank master list, I get that error message.

I was able to get some of them copied over, the ones that would not take were in the 50 and 200 frequencies.  Are there only certain freq. these radios can handle?

The UV-5R is a VHF/UHF dual band. It'll work in the 140MHz (2m) and 440MHz (70cm) bands. 50MHz is 6m and 200MHz is 1.25m - both outside its range.

Correct, there are only certain frequencies the radio will take.  This radio is not capable of operating on 6 meters, so it will not copy the 6 m (50 mhz) frequencies.  Ditto the 220 mhz (1.25 m band) frequencies.

Some say you can manually program in 220 mhz freq.  Maybe you can, but the UV-5R and similar models have filtering in the RF end that prevent that from happening.  Also, the antenna will not work there even if the radio would.  There is a special model imported by Radiomart, I don't remember the designation, that will work 2 m and 220 mhz, and will not work 440.  He specified that the filtering be changed to allow those two bands.

So, you are not missing anything.  The radio simply will not work there even if you were to program it in.

Some people ask on the UV-5R yahoo group about using this radio for crossband repeat, or adapting to use as a repeater, and a lot of other things that it is simply incapable of doing.  It's a fun little radio, and does 2-way communications.  It's got some programming quirks, and is really more of a business/commerical radio adapted for ham use.   It could be a basis for ham experimenting, which is a perfectly valid use.  A radio for tracking a balloon flight?  Foxhunt?  Other use that has high probability of loss or damage?  Why spend $300 when you can get the job done for what are these now, $32 on Amazon?  Unbelievable!

It does a heck of a lot for a sub-$50 radio and does it well.  Enjoy it for what it is.  If you need more, be prepared to spend upwards of $200.

Found it:  Baofeng UV-5RAX 144/220 Transceiver   http://www.radio-mart.net/Baofeng-UV-5RAX-144-220-Transceiver.html

While that's neat... I hope you have someone to talk too.

The local emcomm group used to have a 220 repeater linked to the main one for the weekly nets. There STILL wasn't anyone on 220.

I'm pretty sure it's dead here too, but I was just happy to be able to post up a link.  These guys are very helpful, while I'm primarily a mouth breathing knuckle dragger, so I look for ways to be of at least marginal use (like posting links).

Ok, so I have my new 5r sitting here scanning some frequencies I put in through Chirp. Mainly some local 2m repeaters and I believe most of the FRS freqs.

Every so often it lights up the screen and beeps. It isn't stopping on a signal, it's still scanning. Has anyone else seen this behavior? Is it aliens?

I'm on Amazon right now looking at a Baofeng UV-5R.  I am totally new to ham radio.  I purchased the ARRL Tech License book and started to study.  I have no idea what I'm doing but had to start some place.  I want a newbie friendly and inexpensive radio to listen to while I study and take the tech test in a few months.  What are the must dos for the Baofeng UV-5R?  I want to purchase everything at once.

1) I keep reading about buying a "good cable" for an extra 8.00.  Have no idea what this is.  I figure it's the cable to connect the radio to my computer??  Where do I purchase and what is the model number?
2) Also reading a bigger antenna is recommended.  Maybe a 21 in. antenna?  Again, what brand and model number is best?
3) Battery packs? Brand and model number?

Last but not least, will I be able to listen to a bone stock and out the box UV-5R without "programming"?  I will be purchasing as soon as I get my answers.  Look forward to getting started.  Thanks.

There are many cables with counterfeit Prolific chipsets (in the USB end) that will only work with older drivers.  This site has a good cable that uses another chip.  By the way, the UV-5R uses programming cables, speaker-mics, and such that are Kenwood compatible.  

I would get the FTDI chipped cable on this page.

http://threeoldcrows.com/shop/magento/ham-radio-equipment/accessories.html

IF you already have a good serial to USB adapter that you know works, perhaps one you use with your digital interface, other uses, then there is a Kenwood style 2-pin to serial cable on that same page that can save you some bucks.



Bigger is not always better.  And for me, the 16" - 21" antennas get far away from the "handy" part of handy talky.  I don't need the poke in the eye.  I can recommend the Nagoya NA-701, about 8" long, and the Nagoya NA-771, about 16" long.  I would look on ebay for seller radioshop888 for these.  Radioshop888 has good prices, about 7-8 day shipping, and they are the genuine item, not counterfeit.  There is very little difference in performance between the shorter 701 and the longer 771.  There is a difference, but not much.  I find the shorter NA-701 to give a big boost over the OEM antenna, while still being short enough to handle well.




The 1800 mah (OEM) battery is OK, but the radio is difficult to hold, and awkward to operate.  The longer 3600 or 3800 mah batteries give more than twice the battery life (like 3-5 days between charges with moderate amount of transmitting) and the radio is much easier to handle.  Instead of buying these as extras, I bought all of my UV-5Rs (but for the first one) from ebay seller radioshop888 WITH the larger battery, for about $50.  Since they also sell the Nagoya NA-701 antennas they can pack them together.

I've purchased quite a few of these for fellow ham club members.  Of all of the club members that have handled mine with both a standard battery and the larger battery, all preferred the large battery and did not care for the smaller battery at all.

Here are links:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221065959973

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370482649911    8" long

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370487531741    16" long  -  This will put your eye out faster than a BB gun on Christmas day... haha.

Just get the plain UV-5R.  The 5RA, etc, are all the same internally.  Cosmetic differences only.  Just the case molding.   And the large batteries won't fit on some of the other cases without modifications.  Also, don't worry about getting "the latest firmware".  It is a ho-hum, so what thing.  It just makes very little difference, and for the last year, nothing really noticeable to the end user.  About a years and a half ago, from ver. 231 to ver.251, somewhere in there, the voice prompt changed from Chinese accented English female to American accented female.  That was all you'd really notice.  There were some other things, but nothing important, more internal tweeks.  For a while they had another firmware version, it seemed, every month.  Anyway, not something to worry about when ordering.



Yes.  You just have to know what frequencies to punch in.  The frequencies already loaded are merely factory test frequencies.  There is nothing special about them.  They are not useful.  You don't need them.

You're welcome!

Yes, it will work just fine.


BUY THE CABLE. You'll thank me when you don't have to go buy it later.

I just ordered up a UV-5R with a 3600 maH Li-ion battery, a Nagoya NA-701 antenna and a FTDI chipped cable. How did I do? I'll be back here as soon as I get everything in for some pointers on how to get started. Until then, I will be studying for my Tech license. So excited to learn. What have I gotten myself into?

Get the FTDI chipped cable.  I paid nearly $18 for a Prolific based cable because I didn't want a counterfeit one.  Guess what?  I got burned.  I'm going to write an ugly letter to Prolific and inform them that I will never buy another cable with a Prolific chip in it.  I'm assuming they outsourced to China and the Chinese did what they do best, stole the design.  I'll be ordering the FTDI cable linked above on payday...

I had the older driver installed, but Wind8 "helped me out and auto updated it for me.  I can roll the driver back, f I catch it soon enough, but if I don't I have to uninstall, reboot, and reinstall.  I don't need the headaches.



Well, since you wanted the bigger battery, you did perfect.  I prefer the UV-B5 based on what I've read.  But other than that, you have the same setup I do, or will after I get my new cable.

Cool!  You'll be in good shape.



Good luck on your license.  It's easier than you think.  

When you get your radio go back to the beginning of this thread and start reading.  With the radio in hand it will all make more sense.  Read each section I posted in order, follow along and make settings on your radio.  You'll do fine.



A whole lot of trouble.  And you though Black Rifle Disease was bad?  Welcome to our nightmare.

Don't bother writing Prolific.  Their design was stolen.  They engineered the new drivers to detect and not work with counterfeit chips.  That way you send back the cable, cost the seller lots of money for selling fake goods.  Don't expect them to do anything to make people who are selling fake goods to continue to make money off Prolific's designs and work.

I'll be doing a bit of research.  I'm willing to bet their design was stolen because they off-shored their manufacturing to China.  If you do that, your designs get stolen, DuH!  All so some jerk could make his quarterly bonus by screwing some local workers.  Won't be buying from Prolific again.  They need to understand that actions have consequences.

Almost all electronics is outsourced to China.  This is nothing unique to Prolific.