Greetings, & sorry for the click bait…mostly

I am probably more liberal than most here. I am also a fan of the constitution (last words on politics, I promise). I do enjoy shooting & I think it is time that I get my first gun. I am a noob & don’t have many people in my circle to bounce questions off of. I have shot before; just none of my own guns (ARs). I hope that you guys don’t mind helping educate me.

I start my research with the FAQ’s, sticky threads, & key terms prior to posting. I did not search terms prior to posting, mainly because I don’t know the lingo that well yet. I would be more than happy to read previous threads that I have missed, please point me to them.

As an engineer I appreciate detailed design, quality work & craftsmanship. I would like to have a gun that is sub MOA, so that I can grow into it. I understand that maybe this is much more than I need, I get that. But I hate having to repurchase something because I didn’t have enough forethought. I have the personality where I would like to work on precision range work or take a tactical shooting class.

I would like to start with a 556 with an 18” barrel.

I don't fully understand the differences between the models, and if those differences would matter to me.

I spent a lot of time searching for reviews that compared the three. I would have loved to find a review that provided reasoning of choosing one over the other. I didn’t find this review. So…

Would one model be better suited for long range, or tactical shooting, etc.?  Why?

Does the low profile barrel of the tAR heat up & change accuracy more than the heavy? If so, at what rate of fired does this happen?

Would the LT upper kits fit onto the lower of each model?

Was there a reason why you chose your model?

Does it feel dirty to order the LT upper assembly & put on a non Larue lower? Mixing them might drive me crazy

Thanks in advance for your help

Welcome!

After I took the LaRue armor course I really gained even more of an appreciation for the AR platform and what LaRue has done to it. First thing, the fit of every part is exact. If it doesn't meet the exact standards the part is discarded. (This is common practice with reputable manufacturers) This is the milspec part of the sales pitch. Milspec isn't really available to us in the truest sense of the term. We can just get parts made to a spec. Just focus on buying quality parts.

One example of milspec not being an issue is that LaRue uppers are proprietary. LaRue has reinforced certain parts of the upper to improve accuracy. The receiver extension/ barrel and the upper fit are extremely tight. In the case of an OBR you may need a mallet and a derlin rod to remove the barrel. I also learned the gas system is so critical that it's the only part we weren't allowed to remove in class.

LaRue has slowly developed several different AR platforms over the years. The OBR heavy outshot similar rifles time and time again. The PredatAR (tAR) became a favorite light ar for many. Stealth uppers were a way to accurize a soldiers weapon without anyone noticing Finally my pick is the PredatOBR (tOBR). You can have a 14.5" and an 18" barrel and swap them out with the turn of the supplied wrench. It has a repeatable zero without the necessity of an exact torque. I'd stick with mid length gas system barrels if you're swapping so 14.5 16 and 18" in 5.56.  

tARs are lightweight and accurate. It's not like you're going to be full auto mag dumping through the barrel so your groups will stay nice.

The OBR in 556 has a 10moa rail and adjustable pst gas block for a suppressor.

The tOBR is modular and has the same pst gas block.

A stealth (or right now the ultimate upper kit) is a great thing to toss on any lower.

Hope that helps. You can't go wrong with any or eventually all of em...

Sounds like you need a dose of Rearden Steel.  Good guns.  Just get one you will enjoy it.  That and read Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand.  Will fix that liberal problem  And you will get the Rearden joke.mark puts it on all his barrels.  

But really all the gun are good.  Made in the good old Republic of Texas.  Got a 16in tobr and a 6.5 ultimate upper.  Top notch stuff.  You will like it.

I am by no means an expert in precision shooting, but I recently started down this path, much like you.

If you are wanting to consistently get into subMOA land, be prepared to hand load or spend gratuitous amounts of cash on quality ammo.

Ammo is going to play as large a role in your groups as glass, technique and rifle platform will.

Be prepared to be humbled when you go out and shoot. With a quality scope, 100 yards is easy. 200 is a little harder, past 250 gets you to the point of actually needing skill and practice.

If you plan on shooting at a range only and not doing any hunting, check out the various lead sled or table top stabilizing methods out there. If you will be hunting, you will need a bi or mono pod.

You'll spend just as much time researching scopes as you will the rifle and ammo.

18" tAR has been amazing. It out classes me after months of practice.

Welcome to the site. You'll find that quite of few of us here are social liberals and fiscal conservatives. True small government people. Avoid GD and stick to the tech forums if you want to keep a grip on your sanity.

Which ever platform OBR, PredatOBR, or tAR you chose you will be happy with.  As others have posted the quality is terrific and fit and finish is great, all three (762 OBR, 556 PredatOBR, 6.5 G) of mine required a little persuasion to separate the upper and lowers.  To break down the rifles: the OBR was designed to be precision semi-auto sniper rifle (MK-12).  If you are looking to shoot at the max range that a 556 is capable of with the 18" barrel then this the best choice.   What the 10moa rail gives you is a little help with your optic at the extreme ranges as you start to run out of elevation adjustments.  The tAR is built to be more of an operators rifle, or one you would be carrying and shooting on the move.  The lighter barrel profile will not be a huge issue.  Possibly on a hot day if you have put allot of rounds through it there may be a slight increase in group size, but doubtful.  Depending on the optic you use, you may run into some issues at extreme ranges due to maxing out the elevation adjustments.  Larue and other companies make scope mounts which can help with that.  The PredatOBR is essentially as the name implies, a hybrid between the OBR and the tAR with a couple extra features.  You get the heavy profile barrel from the OBR, placed in a light weight chassis from the tAR.  The quick change barrel assembly and alternate barrel lengths are a great feature, allowing you the ability to swap if you want to do something else besides long range shooting.  The PredatOBR barrel cartridges can be used in the OBR and tAR, but they will need to disassembled and have their barrel nuts changed first.  The Ultimate Uppers will fit on any of the rifles lowers.  As to putting it on another brand lower, you pretty much will have too unless you buy a rifle from them and use that lower.  As long as the fit between the upper and lower is good, and you put a good trigger into it, you will be fine.  Mechanically, the accuracy from an AR comes from the uppers, the lowers contribution is the trigger and a place to mount the stock.

My opinion, get yourself a PredatOBR, suppressor if its legal in your state, and a good optic.

...Only thing I would add to this, regarding scopes, if you're looking to reach out and touch some steel or paper at distance, be prepared (at some point) to spend more on quality glass than on the rifle itself....Reviews in nice glossy magazines and online brokers are fine, but depend more on the personal opinions of people who have actually used the products rather than those that *may* have a reason to push a product....

...Nothing's worse than having a rifle capable, and shooter that's capable but a scope that just isn't.....

...Welcome to a frustrating, fantastic, enjoyable, heartbreaking world where nothing competes with a day at the range for a sense of satisfaction or defeat...sometimes both at the same time....
...you poor devil....

This might help the engineer types in this thread

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Weight difference also, favoring the tOBR.

As to parts, I would suggest, if you have the funds, to just buy the complete rifle from LaRue.  While there's no real "stacking of tolerances" issues with an AR15 platform, mixing and matching could introduce variables you may not be able to resolve without spending more through replacement.  Just my 2 cents and worth what you paid for it.  

Electrical engineer here.

I would like to start with a 556 with an 18” barrel.

I would recommend 16" in 556.  You get a little extra velocity out of the 18", but it doesn't add much usability.  I prefer 14.5" the most, but due to laws it must be pinned and welded, and it's probably not worth tying yourself to a particular muzzle device at this moment.

I don't fully understand the differences between the models, and if those differences would matter to me.

preda(tAR) preda(tOBR), OBR  All will shoot sub MOA.  Practically speaking, one is not more accurate than the other.  The design of the OBR, however, with its continuous top rail lends itself to a wider range of ideal configurations for long range precision shooting.  The others are pretty much equally capable, but require picking the appropriate scope and mount configuration within the confines of the upper receiver rail whereas the OBR with the continuous rail doesn't care if you use rings or a mount.

I spent a lot of time searching for reviews that compared the three. I would have loved to find a review that provided reasoning of choosing one over the other. I didn’t find this review. So…

Generally speaking, tAR = light weight configuration, tOBR = medium weight (reduced upper mass, but same barrel as OBR) with break down capability, OBR = heavier than tOBR due to additional upper receiver mass.  

Would one model be better suited for long range, or tactical shooting, etc.? Why?

tOBR and OBR, mainly due to weight, for long range.  Best tactical shooting configuration... would be a tAR with a heavy barrel, in my opinion, but that's not currently offered, so I'd have to go with the tOBR there between the three.  Additionally, the tOBR will allow you to drop in a caliber actually suited to long range shooting vs 223/556

Does the low profile barrel of the tAR heat up & change accuracy more than the heavy? If so, at what rate of fired does this happen?

It heats up quicker, but also cools down quicker.  Within the range of 223/556, it's a non issue IMO.

Would the LT upper kits fit onto the lower of each model?

Yes

Was there a reason why you chose your model?

14.5" 556 tOBR - reasons stated above incl. break down capability, set up with red dot for 0-250yds for matches and general carbine type stuff.
+18" 6.5 Grendel barrel for tOBR 0-750yds(low/medium/high powered scope).
16" 308 tAR w/ heavy barrel - reasons stated above (also incl. easy break down capability), set up for 0-250yds(red dot) or 0-750yds(low/medium/high powered scope).
+22" 260Rem heavy barrel for tAR - long range configuration, set up for 0-1200yards (high powered scope).

The 18" Grendel barrel for the tOBR came from the ultimate upper kit, the ultimate upper will get a 12.5" 6.5 Grendel barrel

Does it feel dirty to order the LT upper assembly & put on a non Larue lower? Mixing them might drive me crazy

Based on what you have stated thus far, I think you'd appreciate a full rifle rather than mixing and matching.

Given that, for what you're looking to do, an ideal configuration would be a 14.5" or 16" tOBR with a RDS or Low power scope (e.g., 1-4 to 1-8x) and a 6.5 Grendel ultimate upper kit with a 4-16 scope.  Just swap the two uppers between the lower depending on what you want to do, and eventually build out a 2nd lower for the ultimate upper if desired.

Thanks in advance for your help

np

This is great feedback. I appreciate it. It will be a fun
journey, and education. You guys are fantastic.

It is good to hear that the tAR won’t heat up to the point of wondering around. I doubt I will be doing very many full mag dumps. Also, I ran out of characters in my original post. I only plan on range/sport shooting.
I have not hunted, nor do I think I ever will.

I didn’t realize that the OBR’s upper adjusts up. Or at
least that is what I think I read. That would be a handy feature. And it makes sense that if you are at long range you will run out of adjustment.

Is the modular feature on the tOBR and the OBR the latch and pin breakdown (or, insert proper vernacular here)? That would be handy because I would be considering adding a 300 BO (or 6.5 etc.) upper in the future. That looks like it would be easier to swap between uppers.

I have now heard in here, and in one of the other hundred webpages I’ve read through, that if you want to run a suppressor you should get either the tOBR or the OBR. I presume this is due to adjustable pst gas block, which looks like a clever feature. Is the primary reason for running a suppressor at a range to reduce noise fatigue? I have seen some YouTube videos
of people shooting shooting a tAR with a suppressor, so I presume the feature is more about comfort than functionality. I also saw some YouTube videos of people shooting a long ways out, and it surprised me a little to see them using a suppressor. I thought that it reduced velocity some, and at 1,000 yards
they would do everything they could to keep the trajectory flat. But I don’t know…

I see the weight listed on the website for the tAR (16”) at 7.15 lbs, and the OBR (16”) at 7.5 lbs. I presume the tOBR is somewhere between, but it was not listed. That doesn’t seem like that much of a difference to me. I think that there would be a greater difference at 18”, but I don’t see it being more than a half a pound.

Thanks again!

They don't adjust.  

The 5.56 has 10 MOA and the 7.62 has 20 MOA built into the rail.

I didn’t realize that the OBR’s upper adjusts up. Or at
least that is what I think I read. That would be a handy feature. And it makes sense that if you are at long range you will run out of adjustment.

It's a fixed slope (non adjustable)

Is the modular feature on the tOBR and the OBR the latch and pin breakdown (or, insert proper vernacular here)? That would be handy because I would be considering adding a 300 BO (or 6.5 etc.) upper in the future. That looks like it would be easier to swap between uppers.

Modular feature would be largely irrelevant if swapping between entire uppers, but it does give you the capability to easily swap between calibers/barrel lengths down the road rather than having to buy a whole upper.

I have now heard in here, and in one of the other hundred webpages I’ve read through, that if you want to run a suppressor you should get either the tOBR or the OBR. I presume this is due to adjustable pst gas block, which looks like a clever feature.

Yes and no, but it's all easily fixable, and largely depends on suppressor choice

Is the primary reason for running a suppressor at a range to reduce noise fatigue?

Yes, for you and anyone next to you.  It also can reduce your anticipation of the shot due to lack of concussion and noise, which can increase your accuracy with the rifle.  If you're next to someone with a brake you pretty much have to double up on ear plugs and earmuffs

I thought that it reduced velocity some, and at 1,000 yards
they would do everything they could to keep the trajectory flat. But I don’t know…

If anything, there's a slight increase in velocity and point of impact changes, so you have to factor in that when running a suppressor vs not running a suppressor.

I appreciate your guys input. I am now researching more specific terms.

TXHillCountry, I saw your first response just after hitting submit on my followup. I think you answered some of my second round of questions in your response.

I read this on the website and assumed that the rail adjusted:

Drop-down at rear of rail, for zero MOA when using iron sights

I am a ME

Thanks again for the help everyone

I don't think you can for wrong with either. One thing I might add, especially if versatility is important, one of the best deals on the planet right now is the Ultimate Upper package which if you assemble it yourself is as low as $800. The tAR is $450 less than the tOBR so for $350 more than the tOBR you can have a tAR in 5.56 and a complete upper in 6.5G (or 300BLK) as well as all the parts you will need to build a lower when they become available and have two complete rifles. I received my 6.5 kit several weeks ago and popped it on my tAR lower and love it (pic below). Don't get me wrong, I love my tOBRs and my tARs and the engineer in me (I am really a physicist but as you probably know, we all think we are good at engineering ;^) loves the tOBR design and ability to pack a tOBR in a case that does not look like a gun when traveling.

Really ought to define what the OP means when he says long range.  In bouncing around here there seem to be plenty of people with very different understandings of what long range means.  Also, if you are like me and would love to shoot 500 to 1000yds on a regular basis but have no convenient place to do it, I don't think an OBR makes alot of sense.  Fact is you really can't go wrong with any Larue in my book, and for a new shooter I would stick to 5.56 even though my Larue 6.5G is the best all around gun on the planet in my not so humble opinion.  So if we're sticking to 5.56, a 16 to 18" tOBR or tAR will do pretty much anything that can be done.  Lean toward the tAR if you are weight concious, or the tOBR for modularity.  My best grouping 5.56 rifles have stealth barrels, but both of my 16" predatAR barreled rifles shoot under 1 moa.

"Long Range" for me, will be variable. Initially, 100 yards. Then out from there. Who knows where I'll start getting frustrated.

It would be fun to work towards something like this:
https://youtu.be/W0Q2AUqO5nI

Engineers are just physicists who are too lazy to learn each of the disciplines.

Reading up on 6.5, and what's involved in swapping the these other calipers...(300, 6.5). And now stealth uppers...

Weren't you guys suppose help narrow this down

Anyone just getting into shooting now who is going have have one rifle should go Grendel.  Large frame 762 is done, and 556, as great as it is for what it does, can't pace with the versatility of the 6.5.  Get something that will serve you from 100-1000 and make you feel like a Marksman at 500.  It's a no brainer. If you want to know why, read up of ballistic coefficient and supersonic/sub-sonic transition.  As an Engineer, you will appreciate the math that supports the choice.

Once you do the proof, if you have the chops, get a kit and a stripped lower and save some dough for ammo.  If you want one that just flat out works, get the complete rifle and don't look back.

The 6.5 Grendel is looking really interesting. I'll look into the ballistics next.

Reading through the "The LaRue $99 Store - Ultimate Upper" thread now as well. I'm on page 15/26...

As a relative Larue newb myself, this is a very interesting and useful thread.  I was pretty unsure of the differences between the different whole rifles, so thanks to you guys for clearing that up for me.

I have a question that the OP may find interesting as well:

Is the tOBR truly capable of quick-change multi-caliber operations?  It seems the design was really intended for easy storage/transport rather than caliber changes, so not sure how well the following would work out.

Let's say I sight in with 5.56, record the scope's settings, swap to another caliber (300 or 6.5), sight in, and record the scope settings again.  Assuming a decent quality optic on a Larue mount (i.e. the kind of scopes that Larue sells), could you swap calibers, turn scope knobs to appropriate settings, and be confident that the rifle will still be on without having to sight in again?  I guess this is more a question about the consistency of scopes than of the rifle.

If not, let's back it out step and say 1 tOBR upper, 2 barrels, and 2 scope/mounts.  Then you could swap barrels and swap optics and have the rifle be on target for both calibers, correct?  I assume this would work based on the idea behind the tOBR design combined with the repeatability of Larue scope mounts.


For the OP, depending on the responses to my questions, if I were in your position I would strongly consider getting a 16" 5.56 tOBR, then get an upper kit in either 6.5 or 300 (or both!).  You can then decide how frequently you want to shoot the other calibers and let that drive what you do with the rest of the upper kit parts (complete uppers, just barrels/optics, or complete rifles).

I originally got the upper kit thinking I would sell off most of it, but I'm so impressed with the quality/design, and got such a good deal, that it wouldn't make sense to keep barrels and sell the uppers in favor of conventional uppers.  Right now I'm looking at 3 uppers to swap between 1 lower and spread the rest of the parts across my other ARs or sell.  But it would be sweet to have a true quick change barrel and not have to have 3x scopes and mounts.  If my quick change concept is actually true, I may spring for a tOBR, keep my upper kit barrels, and sell the other parts. 

Or just build everything out because BRD is real and I'm afflicted!

I also keep seeing all these hints of being able to purchase lowers from time to time in the BuildAR program. That may be the next long thread I'll need to read through...how to get added to the list.

Also some hints of people who bought uppers might be able to buy lowers.

Thanks for adding to the thread/knowledge.

As far as I understand, BuildAR list is closed and staying closed, so you're and my best chance of getting a lower is to buy a complete rifle or hope that the upper kit customers get the chance to buy one.

Pick your caliber then figure out if you want to carry a heavy gun or not. Then figure out what package you like best. Either way, the gun will be more accurate than you are. It will make precision shooting seem easy.

The upper kits, Mark has hinted basically that those who buy one will get to buy a lower. Who knows when that might happen though.

His lowers do come up on the sell board (EE) from time to time so you always pick one up there.

You could just go ahead and buy a complete and be done with it.

Know this, the entire gun is manufactured in house at LaRue. 100%.

Mark stands behind everything they manufacture.

...Regarding the accuracy of the tOBR after barrel removal/replacement and LT mounts, you might want to read this thread....

....From first hand experience, I can tell you that the LT mounts return to zero is real...I'm glass poor and use one very good scope across 5 different rifles/uppers....Sight in with your chosen ammo and rifle/upper/barrel, record the settings, attach a small label to the stock somewhere (or get yourself a DOPE book) and you're set....

That was good read. Quality can save you money.

I am NOT a long range shooter (yes I know 100 yards isn't that far) but HERE is my test target from my .260

Larue rifles are great arrows

That's great shooting and show what these rifles can do in capable hands. For the OP, the Grendel is the same caliber as the .260.  It is backed by a smaller powder charge, doesn't shoot the larger projectiles, 140gr, and rides on a small frame AR15 platform rather than a larger frame AR10 platform...I.e. Weight variance.  The Grendel gives up about 150 yards on supersonic flight to the .260, but still take you well over 1000yds...1200+ depending on elevation and projectile weight.

I'm not trying to steer him to one caliber or the other, just that whichever he pics not to worry about the quality.

Sanity check please.

Prior to this post I was considering the following. Getting a 556 (Larue somethingerother). Then I had a long term thought of getting a 762, for more long range options, and why not?

Then, with help of this thread, I thought maybe I'll get a 6.5 ultrimate upper kit, and a tOBR. Now, with the decent shot of getting lowers for the kit, I'm curious if a tAR and 6.5 might be the way to go. Start with the 6.5, hope for a lower (or eventually get a 3rd party one), and look into the 556 second, again with the tAR.

I could still go with the 6.5 kit and get a tOBR. Then I could swap to lowers, or get the second lower.

Option #1 looks to be about $800 (black kit 1) + $800 + (black kit 2) + $250 (lower) + $250 (optional second lower). The total would be about the cost of a tOBR, for a tAR and a 6.5.

Option #2 would be about $2300 + $850 + $250 (optional lower). Total would be about $3400.

I think I like the all black, with accents of color. So I doubt I'll have the expense.

So, the question is option 2 $1100 better than option 1?

Or, I could get a 300 black out and still be about the same price of option 2.

I'm guessing on the lower price. I thought I saw that price in a thread here somewhere.

My head hurts.

Either will be incremental. I just like to begin with the end in mind. Or at least what I currently think the end is.

I also get that this might be the best time we've seen to get into AR's, and especially Larues.

Thanks again!

Maybe one will be enough

.....The decision is yours, of course, and it may not be as cut and dried as price....You also have to bear in mind the assembly with the cost of the proper tools to do it right.....
...I don't say that to discourage you from building your own, I actually recommend it to anyone that's willing to put in the time to learn how to do it right (which you seem to have in abundance ).....

.........There's nothing like taking a box of parts, putting them together yourself and then watching as your 'creation' makes lots of small shot groups 100+ yards away......And it's one of the best ways to understand how it all works...BUT, it also takes the time, and sometimes the frustration, of doing it right....

....JMHO....

Be warned that if you go .300 BK you will end up wanting two tax stamps. One to SBR your lower and one for a suppressor. Because the best way to enjoy .300 BK  is subsonic 220 gr. SMK in a suppressed short barreled rifle.

Good point. I watched the uploaded videos on the ultimate upper. While they require skill, it didn't look like it would be beyond my comfort zone.

Someone I know offered to help with tools and advice too. That helps.

Oh yeah. The tax stamps. How much are those? It's per suppressor right?

$200 per stamp, and about a one year wait.....read up on NFA, Form 1, for SBR, and Form 4 for supressor.

Will do. Thanks. That also forces a spread on the purchases. lol

.....On the first build, that makes it much easier......You'll enjoy it.....

...tools are  key.  There are great directional videos on YouTube.  Like anything, some are better than others, but there are some real good ones that will guide you expertly through the process. 

+1 on this...

...Also, Arfcom has some good info too...You have to wade through some static sometimes, but some of the things I found here kept me from some of those 'Home Alone' moments....

....those occasions when you do something so wrong you get 'that look'...

Attached File




...Seriously, OP, as you can see so far, you can ask questions here and get good advice, or at least opinions of good advice, to help....I think most people who suffer from BRD and LaRuitis don't mind spreading the infection where possible.....

tOBR + 6.5 kit is my personal thought.  Also, ignore 300 BLK until you have a suppressor and SBRed lower... and even then, a 9mm AR/Scorpion/whatever over 300 BLK since it does the same thing in the subsonic range for wayyy less ammo cost.  I rarely ever shoot mine, but I pull out the 9mm PCC all the time.

Last question...of this thread...probably

If I get the UU 5.56, then someday in the future upgrade to the tOBR barrel. What differences between my UU and the tOBR would there be, less the guard. I figured that much out.

Thanks

I should have added. I'm 99% sure I'm ordering the 6.5 UU.

I really like the idea of the tOBR + the 6.5. But, that's like + $1100, and I want to understand the value added there over the UU. I get the barrel. That would be around + $900 (for the barrel and break) - $220 (already included).

Thank you for the help

The tOBR barrel will have a gas port that lets you select between suppressed and unsuppressed.

Right. But....help me finish this equation:

UU + lower - tAR barrel + tOBR barrel = PredatOBR - hand guards - ???

Seriously... i love my 9mm suppressed stuff . Shoot it more and more these days. For the life of me I don't understand 300black. I know different strokes and all but with the ammo cost why?

What has two thumbs and finally decided to place an order?

This guy

I ordered two UU. One PredatAR 16", and the 6.5 Grendel. I really liked the idea of the tOBR and the 6.5 kit, but getting both of these for less than the tAR (and a bit more with the lowers), was hard to pass up.

Ultimately I decided with my desire to try both tactical shooting, and long range shooting, that these two would be the best choice to get started. I feel pretty confident that I can assemble them. And I can work on my self-diagnosed OCD and find a lower, or two, that would work well with them. Crossing my fingers that Larue lowers become available, but if not I will make due.

Sincerely appreciate all the words of wisdom from you guys. I am pretty excited to get my first guns since my BB gun as a kid.

Thanks again!

That's a complimentary pair of uppers, I'm sure you'll love them both.

Now start thinking about optics.

And a Tranquilo too.


It never ends.

As far as scope swapping goes; I do this all the time with my scopes. With a Large mount, I zero the turrets on one rifle and record the zero settings for the others. With a Large mount, quality scope, on a Large rifle I find this to always return to within 1/2 MOA

I have three scopes I'm now using interchangeably on all my Picy mounts...all Leupold, 1x6, 2x12, and the latest 3.5x25. I've got them all on SPR mounts and they just flat out work, going rifle to rifle. I bought SL-500 Sitelite. It's a great tool to verify alignment on a hunting trip.  As long as I keep track of 'zero'! I just move the scope, go up or down the required number of clicks, reset the turret to zero if I'm using it that way, and I'm GTG for that outing. Really makes it easy to get a new rifle or upper.

Think of a shallow slope with a cliff and a bottom (from front of gun),  10 MOA (so like 10 inches at 100 yards).  So a laser from the slope would be 10 inches lower than a similar laser shot from the barrel. at 200 they would be 20 inches ect (MOA are roughly 1 moa = 1 inch per 100 yards),Since bullets arnt actually lasers and they drop over distance at about 500 bullet drop is starting to kick in bad they cross. at about 700 you run out of drop clicks  in a NON sloped rail, in a MO sloped rail you can get much farther (because you started out with corrections built in)
I would recommend a beginner rifle class as well once you get your toy. Appleseedinfo.org might have one close to you, they are easily the lowest cost,quality marksmanship classes around, they are totally NON tactical(some people deride that, my paper isn't shooting back and I like tiny groups so ....), they can also introduce you to the local highpower or service rifle crowd( In my experience usually some of the instructors do both).