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OP-Keep practicing taking photo's through the scope. It's like lining your eye up with the scope but a tad more difficult :) While holding the phone with both hands use the volume button to take the photo rather than the on screen button.
Also it would be handy if in the OP you had "thread updates". With direct links to posts within the thread with info another Larue 260 shooter could use. Such as which ammo gives best groups, reloading data, tips & tricks. If it was all in the OP people who don't follow the thread could find the info easier. Just a suggestion. |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
OP-Keep practicing taking photo's through the scope. It's like lining your eye up with the scope but a tad more difficult :) While holding the phone with both hands use the volume button to take the photo rather than the on screen button. Also it would be handy if in the OP you had "thread updates". With direct links to posts within the thread with info another Larue 260 shooter could use. Such as which ammo gives best groups, reloading data, tips & tricks. If it was all in the OP people who don't follow the thread could find the info easier. Just a suggestion. View Quote |
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Excellent OP, OP!
When you removed the barrel did it come out easily? Was the Aeroshell to grease the threads on the upper? |
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I'll be heading up to Utah to shoot this weekend at the big range. I plan on taking it as far out as it will go with the Hornady match and 130 TMK reloads. We are having a 3 gun match as well but I should be able to have some real quality time with the .260.
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Give the laziest man the hardest job and he will find the easiest way to do it.
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D3 is now a D9
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I have been asked to point out that I am LaRue Tactical's owner.
My work has been used by tens of thousands of US Military personnel, and tens of thousands of civilian shooters - ML |
Originally Posted By LaRue_Tactical:
D3 is now a D9 View Quote I'm giving it all she's got, captain! - Loaded Weapon |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Maybe you can relate to my situation if any of you are homeowners. My wife and I have been bringing van loads of stuff to the Salvation Army for 15 years. Somehow, after we clean out the house for the umpteenth time, there's still more "stuff." I honestly think the stuff reproduces at night like rabbits. Same with my Battle Mixers, I kept finding them throughout the basement and garage, a few here and a few there. I gathered them up and I have a dozen that aren't being used and a couple more that were used. Are they following the script and reproducing? I have enough already! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-5082-224596.jpg View Quote |
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D3-Just today I browsing sales at Brownells and found those dies on-sale.
Which bushings sizes are needed for the .260 to go with them? I read how to measure a neck and subtract .002 but didn't get around to it. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Maybe you can relate to my situation if any of you are homeowners. My wife and I have been bringing van loads of stuff to the Salvation Army for 15 years. Somehow, after we clean out the house for the umpteenth time, there's still more "stuff." I honestly think the stuff reproduces at night like rabbits. Same with my Battle Mixers, I kept finding them throughout the basement and garage, a few here and a few there. I gathered them up and I have a dozen that aren't being used and a couple more that were used. Are they following the script and reproducing? I have enough already! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-5082-224596.jpg My Whidden bushing die arrived along with some of the neck tension bushings. A bushing die allows you to play with the neck tension of the cartridge so you have suitable bullet tension given how deep, or how long, some of these projectiles are seated. I hope to play a bit with it tomorrow and will report. As to reloading, I'm going to work up loads at 2 grain increments and at COAL, hopefully for shooting this Friday. I'll also give the imperial wax a try. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG-5084-224590.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By burntcrispy:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a96/burntcrispy/IMG_0408_zpsfefawl4s.jpg Just put 260 on. Can't wait to see what it will do at distance! View Quote Looks like you are running the rat in position #5, mined set up well there also |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
D3-Just today I browsing sales at Brownells and found those dies on-sale. Which bushings sizes are needed for the .260 to go with them? I read how to measure a neck and subtract .002 but didn't get around to it. View Quote ETA - Differing brass has differing neck measurements. The Prime was at .2895 whereas the Hornady was .2905. I need to play with the neck tension a bit and the only way to do it was to order multiple bushings at $15 each. |
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I want a PRS 3rd gen to go along with my 22in barrel on my tOBR.
I've read several options to help make this work. Advice? |
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Originally Posted By burntcrispy:
I want a PRS 3rd gen to go along with my 22in barrel on my tOBR. I've read several options to help make this work. Advice? View Quote Just call and ask for what you need. |
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Originally Posted By burntcrispy:
I want a PRS 3rd gen to go along with my 22in barrel on my tOBR. I've read several options to help make this work. Advice? View Quote |
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Originally Posted By mettee:
Good info, I have been wondering myself. I am going with the whidden dies as well. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mettee:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
I went with 289. Based on measurements, I could have gone 287-289. ETA - Trying to not turn this into a Go be Poor Somewhere Else thread. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
The Gen 3 will work on a rifle length tube or a carbine length tube. Tee Gen 3s have different external spacers that you use depending on the buffer you're using; they simply screw in and out. If you're using a rifle length tube, you can use the carbine buffer and spring, but you will need the LaRue Buffer Kit that has the correct buffer tube insert. Go to the index and look for my threads on buffers and you'll see a post talking to a Gen 3 PRS. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Defender3:
Originally Posted By burntcrispy:
I want a PRS 3rd gen to go along with my 22in barrel on my tOBR. I've read several options to help make this work. Advice? |
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Originally Posted By burntcrispy:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
Originally Posted By burntcrispy:
I want a PRS 3rd gen to go along with my 22in barrel on my tOBR. I've read several options to help make this work. Advice? |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Wow, rifle and photo skills, excellent! Can you comment on the camera/lens you used and some of the settings to bring out those colors and clarity? View Quote I'm working with FRBaseball on a video. We shot some stuff last weekend and will get the rest this weekend. Awesome job with the index and links. That took some effort. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Yes, but...am I correct you're picture is showing a factory LaRue tOBR with a .260 sparrel? You have a carbine length buffer and spring combo? If so, you don't need the spacer kit. You'd only need it if you went with a longer rifle length buffer tube while keeping the carbine buffer and spring. View Quote How would this stock be attached to a shorter carbine tube that has no hole in the end of it to screw the stock into? Carbine tubes are about 1.5" shorter than a rifle? |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
The PRS stock I bought (Gen 3) only came with the stock and a short bolt to screw into the end of the buffer tube. How would this stock be attached to a shorter carbine tube that has no hole in the end of it to screw the stock into? Carbine tubes are about 1.5" shorter than a rifle? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
Yes, but...am I correct you're picture is showing a factory LaRue tOBR with a .260 sparrel? You have a carbine length buffer and spring combo? If so, you don't need the spacer kit. You'd only need it if you went with a longer rifle length buffer tube while keeping the carbine buffer and spring. How would this stock be attached to a shorter carbine tube that has no hole in the end of it to screw the stock into? Carbine tubes are about 1.5" shorter than a rifle? NOTE - The LaRue 7.62/.260 uses a slightly longer buffer tube that will not fit the Gen 3 unless you change to a rifle length buffer, which then will require the LaRue specific buffer tube spacer. Magpul Gen 3 PRS Magpul not Gen 3 PRS Gen III Instructions: |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Yes, but...am I correct you're picture is showing a factory LaRue tOBR with a .260 sparrel? You have a carbine length buffer and spring combo? If so, you don't need the spacer kit. You'd only need it if you went with a longer rifle length buffer tube while keeping the carbine buffer and spring. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Maybe it's not a Gen 3? The Gen 3 has two extension inserts, one for a carbine and one for a rifle length buffer. The rifle length uses tension and the rear screw, whereas the carbine length only uses tension. Magpul Gen 3 PRS Magpul not Gen 3 PRS Gen III Instructions: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/EPSON043-1-225018.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/52736/EPSON044-1-225019.jpg View Quote Guy I bought it from said it was a 3 and I didn't realize it until now I shot with it today for the 1st time. I noticed a 2 MOA shift down and had a 5-6 FTE's out of 60 rounds shooting suppressed. Anyone else notice these issue when installing the PRS? |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Just as a disclaimer, I may, at times, overthink any given challenge. I selected Whidden dies because I'm reloading .260 for two rifles and wanted some flexibility. I'll load for the LaRue to COAL, but also a bolt gun that could benefit from the micrometer seater due to how the chamber was cut / freebore. If you're only reloading for a gasser, you may not need to be as ETA - Trying to not turn this into a Go be Poor Somewhere Else thread. View Quote If it is what I think its, this stuff costs a lot, and with all the stuff you are getting it might turn into a poor thread I am on the optics savings plan |
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Originally Posted By mettee:
I was going to use the Redding bushing die at first but they are only a small amount less. I am going to be using a 550 with the floating tool head so I chose to stay with all whidden stuff. If it is what I think its, this stuff costs a lot, and with all the stuff you are getting it might turn into a poor thread I am on the optics savings plan View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
If your interested in a lightly used Vortex HD (MOA) 5-20x50, let me know. With the arrival of the Gen II, the original has to go. View Quote |
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Have a 14.5" 7.62 tobr and want a 22" .260 barrel and longer hand guard!
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Originally Posted By mettee:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
If your interested in a lightly used Vortex HD (MOA) 5-20x50, let me know. With the arrival of the Gen II, the original has to go. |
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Some of you with kids who have left the nest will relate to this, but we still have animals they've abandoned, specifically two cats. I didn't know these damn things lived so long! All they do is eat, sleep and poop; they lack compassion and could care les about us, until we don't feed them. They also drag their conquests into the house if we're foolish enough to leave the screen door open. They'll play with the poor victim until it hides someplace and dies, leaving us to search for it once it starts to smell. I heard a potential victim squealing today and ran downstairs to find this poor vole being batted around. I was able to save it and get it to the backyard hill we have where it hangs out in a system of tunnels. I can't wait until these cats die off.
I loaded up some rounds today, hopefully for a local range trip on Friday. I broke out the Wilson case gauges and measured 50 pieces of Lapua brass. All were within COAL tolerances so I didn't trim any of these virgin pieces. The case gauge has two measurements, one side is case length and the other is headspace. You place the brass into the case gauge and then look at where it falls within the gauge's minimum and maximum shoulders. The Lapua was virgin so the headspace was all in specs. The case length varied a bit, but all were within a ten thousandth. Because these were in specs, I did not trim them. I also checked the case mouth and no chamfering/deburring was needed. Out of 50 virgin Lapuas, there was only one where the case mouth was flattened: Then it was time to prime the cases, which I do using the Forster Co-Ax press, which has a priming area on the top of the press. You simply center a case using the primer tool and then set the case holders. Then you install the correct primer pocket tool and you use the stroke of the press arm to prime a case. The Forster automatically sets the primer and seats it under the case head so it's properly resessed. I decided to crack open my stash of Federal 210Ms to use for this load development. After a few minutes I had 50 primed cases. I decided to load the Hornady 130 ELD-Ms so it was off to the Hornady manual to see the specs and load data for the .260. Oh, oh, no 130 ELD-M load data for H4350. Off to the website to pull an update: I'm going to do a 10-shot ladder test so I decided to load in 2gr increments between the minimum and maximum. I loaded 40.8, 41, 41.2, 41.4, 41.6, 41.8, 42, 42.2, 42.4 and 42.6grs of H4350. Why I loaded so many across such a spread will become clear in a bit. I used the RCBS Chargemaster to drop the powder. 50 rounds charged and checked: Now it's time to seat the bullets. I'm using Whidden dies and the seater has a micrometer that allows you to dial in a very specific depth pretty easily. COAL is 2.800, but I loaded to 2.730. All done and ready for the range: So, why did I load 50 rounds across such a spread? Easy answer I wanted to maximize my range time on Friday and hopefully narrow down a good load in one trip. Now, I'm using a 10 round load development concept that I read over at 6.5 guys and that had origins in Creighton Audette's testing. I'm going to shoot one of each load and chronograph each to find the spot where there is minimal deviation in the speed. That point, for example where 4-8grs makes minimal speed impact is where I want to be as it's a SD sweet spot. After all, it's not about how good a 100 yard group you shoot, but how low a standard deviation you can have, which translates better at long range. Once I find that velocity sweet spot, I'm going to fire the rounds in that grain range to gauge accuracy, From there I can tweak a bit and work COAL. You can read more about the ladder test as follows. Any rounds that don't work will just be pulled and re-loaded. 6.5 Guys 10rd Load Development Audette's Ladder |
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Originally Posted By mettee:
The way things go around here it will take me two years to save for I know I could be shooting sooner if I got a less costly optic its an internal battle. Might use an hdmr with h59 for a while. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mettee:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
Nice! I'll go be poor somewhere else. I know I could be shooting sooner if I got a less costly optic its an internal battle. Might use an hdmr with h59 for a while. Not trying to dissuade you, but you could get the Gen II Vortex for about $2K less and the glass is pretty darn good. A lot of PRS guys jumped on that less expensive bandwagon. You've probably seen this, but if not: What the Pros Use |
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Great update!
I'm trying to decide which press to buy. It's between the COAX, Redding T7 Turret, or a good 'ol Rock Chucker. The latter is half the cost but I really like that COAX. I did pick up 2 pounds of H4350 today |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Great update! I'm trying to decide which press to buy. It's between the COAX, Redding T7 Turret, or a good 'ol Rock Chucker. The latter is half the cost but I really like that COAX. I did pick up 2 pounds of H4350 today View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Buy once, cry once! Not trying to dissuade you, but you could get the Gen II Vortex for about $2K less and the glass is pretty darn good. A lot of PRS guys jumped on that less expensive bandwagon. You've probably seen this, but if not: What the Pros Use View Quote I have used both of the optics you mentioned, as well as the SB. I just come back to what will I be happy with. And I even thought about the Nightforce as well. Its just that the SB has a mag range that is awesome, a lower low and a higher high end, both which are functional. Most of the others I have used the clarity degrades at those extreme mag levels, low or high. |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Serious coin! Is it really that much better than a 'cheap' $2500 Nightforce ATACR? View Quote I had a second job for the last 1.5 years at a sports store so I got a lot of exposure to these. Look at the Dillon 550 since you are here in AZ. With a whidden tool head they are really good, make concentric ammo. They have a model without all the bells that is much less. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3:
Buy once, cry once! Not trying to dissuade you, but you could get the Gen II Vortex for about $2K less and the glass is pretty darn good. A lot of PRS guys jumped on that less expensive bandwagon. You've probably seen this, but if not: What the Pros Use View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Defender3:
Originally Posted By mettee:
Originally Posted By Defender3:
Nice! I'll go be poor somewhere else. I know I could be shooting sooner if I got a less costly optic its an internal battle. Might use an hdmr with h59 for a while. Not trying to dissuade you, but you could get the Gen II Vortex for about $2K less and the glass is pretty darn good. A lot of PRS guys jumped on that less expensive bandwagon. You've probably seen this, but if not: What the Pros Use Now, it's up to me to learn to use the thing, and shoot worth a damn. |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I'll stick my dick in a WorkSharp before I let you try to sharpen anything of mine.
NRA Benefactor Member 2nd Amendment Foundation Life Member |
Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
Great update! I'm trying to decide which press to buy. It's between the COAX, Redding T7 Turret, or a good 'ol Rock Chucker. The latter is half the cost but I really like that COAX. I did pick up 2 pounds of H4350 today View Quote The press also does a good job of dissipating sizing force vertically, unlike some of the more conventional single stages that feel like they want to pull your bench toward you. |
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Glad I have most of the reloading gear I "need" already, only need to pick a die set for the 260 and bullets , have a rock chucker, a pacific single stage and a old texan loadmaster turret press on the bench (along with a dillon SDB 45acp and getting ready to order a XL650 for my 9/40/223 3 gun ammo)
This scope talk is also relevant to my interest =) need to pick whats going on my 260 as well, I'm current considering a Sig Tango6 5-30x56 w/ DEV-L MRAD reticle. Looks pretty good and street price is about the same as the Gen2 HD... |
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Originally Posted By mettee:
I do think so, but that is depending on how picky you are. Just in my short experience I notice things that I would like and not like between a lot of the popular ones. I had a second job for the last 1.5 years at a sports store so I got a lot of exposure to these. Look at the Dillon 550 since you are here in AZ. With a whidden tool head they are really good, make concentric ammo. They have a model without all the bells that is much less. View Quote |
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D3-Which web site did you get the load data from?
This is what I found on http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle ManufacturerPowderBullet Diam.C.O.L.Grs.Vel. (ft/s)PressureGrs.Vel. (ft/s)PressureHodgdonH4350.264"2.780"39.72,64650,600 PSI42.72,81659,000 PSI |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
I have a 550 that I use as a single stage press for 2 rifle calibers. I added the unique tek tool head clamp kit and it works decent but is a tad clunky as a single stage. However anoter tool head and a set of dies would be cheaper than adding a 2nd press. View Quote http://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/floating-dillon-toolheads/ |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
I have a 550 that I use as a single stage press for 2 rifle calibers. I added the unique tek tool head clamp kit and it works decent but is a tad clunky as a single stage. However anoter tool head and a set of dies would be cheaper than adding a 2nd press. View Quote The 550 is a little clunky for precision rifle but it gets the job done. |
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Originally Posted By mettee:
Give that whidden tool head a go, I hear nothing but good. http://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/floating-dillon-toolheads/ View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mettee:
Originally Posted By DuneShoot:
I have a 550 that I use as a single stage press for 2 rifle calibers. I added the unique tek tool head clamp kit and it works decent but is a tad clunky as a single stage. However anoter tool head and a set of dies would be cheaper than adding a 2nd press. http://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/floating-dillon-toolheads/ |
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