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Posted: 12/14/2010 8:21:48 AM EDT
looking to remove the parkerization of my century yugo m70 and hot blue it, prefer local but if you guys have any good recommendations, ill ship it wherever
Link Posted: 12/14/2010 9:05:41 AM EDT
[#1]
The gunsmith I use is in Suffolk, and would be a bit of a drive for you from the beach. But I've just starting sending my refinishing jobs to Tim (I can't think of his last name off the top of my head, but he's doing business as Ballistic Coatings, if I recall correctly) who lives in the up in the thouroughgood section of the beach.   I saw his table at a funshow and gave him a project gun I was working on as a test to see his work.  Now I'm a repeat customer.

I know he does finish removal, and ceramic coatings... I would be absolutely stunned if he couldn't do bluing.   - Of course if your like me, you'll ask about bluing but change you mind and go with ceramic (Ceracoat) once you see the result and the price.  That project gun I mentioned was done in ""midnight purple"" which I chose because he said it would look just like a blued gun. - it does. (sure, if you put it side-by-side, you can tell the difference; but if you were to see it on a table it just looks like any blued gun.)

I don't have his number with me this afternoon, but I'll send it to you in an IM this evening when I get home.   _ maybe I can even post a few pics of the work he's done for me so far.


.
Link Posted: 12/14/2010 11:52:13 AM EDT
[#2]
Classic and Modern Repair on Providence Rd. in Va. Beach. Bob Yurina there does very nice bluing work.

He rebuilt a revolver for me once. Took nine months to finally nail it. But it was really well done and was worth waiting on. (It did have several issues to be fair. It was a challenging job, so I was happy to be patient.)
Link Posted: 12/14/2010 12:22:28 PM EDT
[#3]
do these guys do hot bluing ?
Link Posted: 12/14/2010 8:10:27 PM EDT
[#4]
Classic and Modern Repair uses hot bluing with old fashioned salts. Nice deep blue color. Sometimes when I've dropped by there I'll see him or a helper hand sanding and polishing in prep for a blue job.

The original Yugo AK's had their recievers rough sanded fore to aft leaving fine lines in the finish and most other parts were lightly polished before bluing. Not unusual for some components like the gas block and rear sight block to come out purple vice dark blue. Something to do with the steel alloys used in them.
I studied the reciever scraps on my Yugo kits before I rebuilt them. (I am a hobbiest. I do my own. If you don't do it yourself though, you have to go to a professional. The ATF considers finishing a gun to be the same as manufacturing and you need a license to do it for others.)

But I prefer a matte blue. I just beaded my parts before bluing.

Glad to hear you are going for real bluing. That mix of finishes on many commercial Yugo's just doesn't look right to me.

Here's the Yugo UF I rebuilt. All 922r parts are internal to the rifle so I can use any mags I want to. NDS receiver. Rebarreled too. Teak wood from Iron Wood Designs. Made the steel grip cap from scratch too as that size grip cap seems to be unobtainium. I love the Yugo's!





Link Posted: 12/15/2010 3:20:24 AM EDT
[#5]
nice rifle, wonder how much it would run to have them prep and blue a yugo uf. Century's finish is esp unattractive and not very durable
Link Posted: 12/15/2010 7:40:18 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
The gunsmith I use is in Suffolk, and would be a bit of a drive for you from the beach. But I've just starting sending my refinishing jobs to Tim (I can't think of his last name off the top of my head, but he's doing business as Ballistic Coatings, if I recall correctly) who lives in the up in the thouroughgood section of the beach.   I saw his table at a funshow and gave him a project gun I was working on as a test to see his work.  Now I'm a repeat customer.

I know he does finish removal, and ceramic coatings... I would be absolutely stunned if he couldn't do bluing.   - Of course if your like me, you'll ask about bluing but change you mind and go with ceramic (Ceracoat) once you see the result and the price.  That project gun I mentioned was done in ""midnight purple"" which I chose because he said it would look just like a blued gun. - it does. (sure, if you put it side-by-side, you can tell the difference; but if you were to see it on a table it just looks like any blued gun.)

I don't have his number with me this afternoon, but I'll send it to you in an IM this evening when I get home.   _ maybe I can even post a few pics of the work he's done for me so far.


.
if u get a chance, a pic of "midnight purple" rifle would be interesting

Link Posted: 12/15/2010 7:53:14 AM EDT
[#7]
You'd have to ask  them. I would say it won't be cheap due to the labor involved.

For example in doing it myself.
I spent two hours beading my parts after disassembly and degreasing. Degreasing can be a PITA with an AK. I boiled mine in a water and tri phosphate solution to get the oils out of the crevices. Then lots of brake cleaner. If oils keep creeping out, you keep degreasing. If oils creep out during the bluing, the bluing will not take on those spots. Sanding and polishing will take much longer than that if you want a true original finish. Then you degrease again and finally suspend the parts on wires and dunk them in the 280 degree salts bath. That takes 30-60 minutes to get the color nice and deep. Then you have to do a long hot near boiling rinse and then oiling and reassembly. Not unusual for some salts to creep out of crevices for a month or more afterwards too. (They make additives you can use to minimize this, but the creepy crud can still happen. AK's have many nooks for it to form.) So for the first month or so you want to keep it well oiled and hit any salts creeping out of rivets with a toothbrush and oil. If that white crud sits too long on the bluing, it can stain it a lighter color.

Good hot bluing is labor and time intensive.

This why many shops now only offer to do spray and bake finishes. Many gun people are really cheap bastards and are only concerned with how cheap they can get stuff done. Seems no one wants to pay for the time it takes to do things the old fashioned ways anymore. I've seen this enough on the boards and when I am at shops. It just amazes me what the shop owners have to put up with.

All that labor to do it well is the reason Century and others just use a cheap cold oxide bath to blacken  the steel. Or they use park if you're lucky. Often its a mix of finishes to keep the cost down.

Some years back I built myself a collection of AK's. I really didn't like the commercial offerings I saw for sale. I knew I could do better myself. Since I planned to do a number of them I became a home builder and got the proper rivet tools. I'm already a machinist and welder and upholsterer, so I already had everything else I needed tool wise. Its a fascinating hobby. You get more ambitious and want to do stuff better. I got some large pieces of 14 gage SS from a local scrap yard and made my own bluing and park tanks. I need a more efficient burner system though for bluing. 280 degrees takes a lot of heat to achieve. Too cold to mess with now though. Parking is done at 190 or so and is much simpler. I started using small SS restaurant pans over a camp stove to experiment with. That is cheap to do. So rebluing something small like a pistol is a fun project. But then you start thinking about bluing your Romanian PSL rifle. Then your 30-30 Marlin...... That takes a bigger tank! Back when home building was more popular, Arfcom had a great home builders forum running. Back then you could learn all you needed on line. The good old days before the barrel ban when kits were cheap.

So realize that this work does suck up time to do it well. Take that into account if you drop by Bob's or any other shop for a estimate on it. He runs a nice little shop. There's a guy there that does awesome leather work. Bob often has a great collection of AR15 bits for sale and some used guns for sale. A couple times now I have found nice bargains on lightly used Surefire lights for sale there.  A small shop. But Bob is a really fine craftsman in his work. It's worth a trip there. When I find myself over my head in a project. Like that old revolver was for me, I took it to Bob.
Link Posted: 12/15/2010 8:34:04 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:



if u get a chance, a pic of "midnight purple" rifle would be interesting



I had a revolver done.  So I can't help you there. But I'll put the pics of it onto  my web page and link to it one I get them uploaded. The only refinish work I've done on a rifle was to nickle-plate the receiver on a Winchester model 94 (which looks AWESOME, BTW, but not really relevant to this thread...)

.
Link Posted: 12/15/2010 8:49:47 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:

...
You get more ambitious and want to do stuff better. I got some large pieces of 14 gage SS from a local scrap yard and made my own bluing and park tanks.
...


I remember talking with you and you mentioned you had the gear for doing your own PARK' finishing.  I didn't remember the bit about you having blueing tanks too... That's pretty awesome.

I've got a follow on question for you, but after typing it I realize I'm hyjacking the thread pretty bad... I'll past it into an IM for ya.
.
Link Posted: 12/15/2010 12:21:01 PM EDT
[#10]
I buy my scrap steel at the metal yard in South Norfolk. Its the yard you see next to the Elizabeth River from the Gilmerton Bridge on Military Hiway. They are scrapping a couple old tug boats right now. They have one building there where they set aside the really neat stuff they get in that they know will sell later. It was like four years back. But they sold me three sheets of 14 gage SS. 4'x 4'. $50 for each piece. Each was enough to make a large pan.

For new steel and "drops" I go to BMG Metals in Chesapeake.

I made a heating stand out of rusty old Mauser barrels and pipe and square tubing.
Link Posted: 12/16/2010 9:05:29 AM EDT
[#11]
Revolver Armorer in suffolk is great.  Matt did a awesome job w/ a ceramic coat on my beat up Kahr K9 and he also does hot bluing, parkerizing, etc.  Great guy and quick turnarounds.  He had my Kahr back to me in 2 weeks.
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